My 1970 chevy c10 pickup is a 350 with automatic transmission 2wd. It doesn't get driven frequently and when I do the first time I put it into gear, fwd or reverse, it is slow to engage. Shortly after it has warmed up however, this problem goes away. What this sounds like?
View 6 RepliesI own a 2002 Monte Carlo SS 3.8 6cyl. I believe it has a 4T65-E transmission.
On a regular basis if I drive 20 miles out of town, on my way back the transmission starts to shift hard (long shift?). From my research online, the 4T65-e is a faulty transmission to begin with. Is it worth replacing the Shift and Pressure solenoids? If I were to buy a new transmission where should I look? What are some model numbers?
Oil, trans fluid, filters are changed on regular basis.New catalytic converter. No Check Engine Light.
98 tracker with 5 speed manual transmission has new clutch pressure plate throwout bearing and shit cable. strictly mechanical clutch mechanism drive for about 30 minutes and clutch goes away and unable to shift gears. let it sit overnight will work until about 30 minutes of drive time when everything has a chance to heat up...
View 8 RepliesI've got a 2003 Xterra, RWD, manual transmission, with around 110k. It's been giving me a little trouble shifting into gears 1-3 when the weather's below 30F. It started doing this when I got the transmission fluid changed last, about 2 years ago. I took it back to the mechanic who fixed it immediately, and he changed the fluid a second time for free, but when the problem persisted, he said he had no idea. Needless to say, I haven't gone back to him. Since then, I've tried to ignore it (not too hard in sunny NC), but it's getting worse and I'm about to move to Chicago, so I think I should fix it before I move to the land of harsh winters. My first guess would be the tranny fluid weight might be a little low and I should try a heavier weight.
View 13 RepliesI went to drive my 1970 Nova today and after driving it for about 15 seconds it seemed to stick in second gear. I cannot get it to go into neutral to be able to put it into any other gear including reverse. The shifter is on the floor. I have no clue what is going on- If it's something with the linkage between the shifter and the transmission or something with the clutch. It has never acted this way before and gave no indication that a problem was on the horizon.
View 13 RepliesI have a 1970 f250 with a factory 390 (vin verified) and a C6, I believe the transmission was rebuilt but have no way to verify. It works fine while cold and mildly warm. Once heat soaked it is very slow to shift (going from neutral to reverse can take almost 30 sec) and leaks profusely from the front. I can not tell exactly where the leak is. Could this be a case of just having too much fluid or is there a more serious concern? The dipstick does read high but level ground in my area is hard to come by so the accuracy can be questioned. If it does have to much fluid, do I just drain the pan, re-install and let it run till hot and replace fluid as needed or should I drain and replace with 3 qrts prior to starting?
View 7 RepliesSo I changed transmission fluid on my 1.8t GLS because I was having difficulty shifting out of gears on cold starts. It seemed to work fine for a few days and now I'm back to square one, it still doesn't want to shift correctly!
View 14 RepliesMy 1970 Nova has a very stiff clutch pedal. Is it possible to adjust the tension on it? It's getting to the point where it makes my foot sore to drive the thing- very annoying. It has a 3 speed on the floor gear-shift.
View 11 Replies2007 Chevrolet Impala 1LT3.5L Flex Fuel EngineAuto Transmission with shift lever on the steering column29,980 miles
Bought new Nov 2006 so is now four and a half years oldThe drive train is still under warranty (6 years or 60,000 miles). All recommended service per the manufacturers manual has been done. Book calls for first transmission service at 50,000 miles
NOTE: Previously at 19,600 miles the transmission cooler line fittings were replaced due to a small leak. Currently no evidence of a leak; no fluid on garage floor and the transmission fluid level on the stick shows right on the mark. Fluid still clean pale red and has no odor.
Majority of my driving is short hops with multiple stops, so the car gets heavy use shifted into and out of park gear. I do use the "parking brake" applying it after shifted into park and released before shifting out of park. I always have my foot on the brake pedal when shifting out of park.
PROBLEM: Having trouble shifting out of park on a cold engine or if the car has been sitting for an hour or more since turned off and put into park gear. Oddly enough, if I'm running a series of errands where the car has been in park for only 5 to 30 minutes, there is no problem shifting out of park gear. But if the car sits long enough for the engine to cool then it becomes hard to shift. The longer the time it sits in park the harder it is to shift out of park when the car is started.
When I start my truck, the headlights come on automatically. Because of this, they get alot of wear. Are they getting dimmer with wear or not? How often should I change the headlights .
View 2 RepliesI have a 1996 Chevy pickup with a 5.7 motor. I pulled the plug, oil is draining and I usually lift the hood; but this time I didn't (don't know why). Something came up and we had to leave quickly and we jumped in the truck and got 1/8 mile down the road, I pulled the plug on the oil. Turned around and parked it - the oil filter was still in - so there should of been some oil in there!?!? Do I need to be concerned that I damaged anything?
View 10 RepliesMy 2001 Chevy S10 Extended Cab Pickup 4 Cyl 102K miles went dead immediately after pulling out of my parking space. Went about 10 yards and all of the sudden the engine, power, dash lights, everything shut down, requiring me put into Neutral and push to side of the road. One minute later, it started up just fine and got me through the day with no further problems. The NEXT day, on first attempt, I turn the key half way and all power and dash lights come on, but as soon as I try to turn the engine over, everything went dead and remains that way. It is currently in this state. I replaced the battery 4 months ago.
View 2 RepliesSo my dads truck is a 87 2.2 throttle body 4cyl and it cuts out and dies while accelerating and I have no clue what is going on we are thinking bad fuel filter or starving for air....
View 1 RepliesMy 1985 Toyota Pickup (manual shift) is stalling out when I put the truck in neutral or don't shift quickly enough. The battery light comes on after stalling followed by the oil light. After stalling, it does start back up and repeats the same problem. If I keep my foot on the gas and the truck in gear, it runs. I'm new to DIY repairs, and bought this truck for the purpose of learning more. I know the basics, am mechanically inclined, have a repair manual, and am a quick learner.
View 4 RepliesI have a 98 chevy truck and shortly after the mechanic put brakes on my truck, when I start it you cannot get it out of park. In fact sometimes when I can't get it out of park when I shut it off I have trouble removing the key from the ignition. I've found that when I want to start it I turn the key one notch put the truck in neutral and continue starting. At this point all works correct.
View 1 RepliesA friend is stumped by a problem with his truck, so I thought I might get some insight here. I haven't actually seen the truck, all that follows is from what he described, I'm just the messenger here.
The truck had been running fine on a used engine installed about six months ago. Then he ran it out of gas, it hasn't run properly since. It cranks fine, but won't start. He says it WILL start when spraying starter fluid into the throttle body, but only while the starting fluid is supplied. He also says he disconnected the fuel line somewhere near the engine, cranked the engine, and got good fuel supply (but no fuel pressure gauge reading). He's done some logical things: new fuel pump, fuel filter, spark plugs and wires. No luck. Figuring that he'd sucked something ugly into the injectors, he decided to replace those with no change (yes, I cautioned him about throwing expensive parts at it with no clear reason).
He reasons that he must be getting spark based on the engine running with starter fluid, and there must be fuel based on his test with the open fuel line, so he thinks it's an electronic problem, presumably the signal to the injectors. This is out of my league...and my friend is a carpenter, not a mechanic. If he could get a scanner would this kind of problem register a code?
My father passed down his 1973 Chevy C-10 pickup truck to me and my family. It's been our 'runner' truck for many years going to the mountains for wood, lumber from the store, garbage and yard debris...etc. Unfortunately, it recently has been starting and warming up just fine, but once it's running as I'm driving away from stops or even holding speed on the highway the power 'fades' from the engine and it lugs like it is in gear, but flooded and lurches as the engine seems to 'catch up'. I have replaced the carb(holly quadrajet), fuel pump, fuel filters, battery, fuel lines, throttle cable, distributor cap (ceramic piece too), alternator and more...we still can't get it figured out. NOW the truck won't start or turn over - have we reached the end of it's life no matter what we do? What is left to replace? I don't think we can afford much more $ to fix it. We also found that somehow water was in the gas tank, which we think was from a kid in the neighborhood messing around. Could that have made a permanent issue?
View 5 RepliesMy AC blows cold for a little while, then it blows warm. If I wait and turn it back on the cycle repeats it self. I had the freon filled. Not sure what to do? 1997 nissan pickup....
View 3 RepliesWhen adjusting valves on a 1986 22RE Toyota engine, the manual says to adjust intake to .008 and exhaust to .011 when the engine is "hot". I was doing some research and it seems to be a somewhat common practice to adjust valves on these engines to .007 intake and .011 exhaust when the engine is cold. The explanation being that the clearances will open up some when the engine warms up or gets to "hot". I always thought the clearances would get tighter as the engine warmed up but my "knowledge" is based on traditional pushrod engines and this is an overhead cam engine. If adjusted cold, will the clearances get smaller or larger when the engine is hot? And is it ok to adjust the valves cold? And how hot is correct amount of hot if I adjust them according to the manual?
View 11 RepliesIn cold weather at low rpm's, my truck has poor acceleration until the rpm's increase and it takes off. I replaced spark plugs, wire, cap, and rotor.
View 14 RepliesI have a 98 passat v6. I was changing some fuses today and i restarted the car after that and i noticed the gear selector is solid so i looked in manual and it says car has electrical malfunction, how to get the car out of this mode i have had no problems until I touched the fuses ...
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