Passat - Volkswagen :: Misfiring On Cylinder 3 - Carbon Build Up On Intake Manifold
Oct 16, 2011
I recently took my 2007 VW Passat 2.0T in b/c the check engine light was on. They initially replaced a leaking valve and a bad ignition coil, but the car was still misfiring on cylinder 3. They took off the intake manifold and found that there was significant carbon build up. The service writer said it was from "low-quality" gas. The car requires 91 octane. I've used 93 octane since 2007 but started using 89 octane around 6 months ago when the gas prices spiked again. Could 6 months of 89 octane cause significant carbon build up to the point it would trip the check engine light? Or could something else have caused it that I need to watch out for?
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My 1999 Accord with V6 and 240,000 miles pings on all gas except premium.I removed the upper intake manifold and found a very small pool of oil in the mainifold floor next to the opening that the throttle body bolts to.Also there is a small port in the upper manifold next to the throttle body opening that is about 80% clogged with a hard black deposit. This deposit is also in the corresponding port on the lower intake manifold.I had a new EGR valve and decarbonization done at about 175,000 miles.
The car runs great on premium gas but it is supposed to run on regular which is a lot cheaper.
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Anything to remove some carbon build up, that won't cost an arm and a leg. My car has 123k miles on it and those morning starts from the carbon build up are just unpleasing to say the least.
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Last week when we were in the single digits outside my 3.6 SE took about 15-20 sec of cranking to start (garage kept). Then the check engine light came on (2nd time in 10 months). I drive a lot (80 miles a day), and have put 19,900 miles on since I purchased it in March of 2012. The light turned off after three cycles, but I just so happen to have my 20,000 mile service scheduled so I took the car in. The hard start still is happening every few start ups.
The dealer told me the hard start issues I have been experiencing was due to excessive carbon build up on the valves. The dealer said they haven't seen many "high mileage" 2012 3.6 come through, so they could not tell me if this is common.
I use Shell 93 octane for every fill up. Is there something else I should be doing to prevent this carbon build up? Any others seen this with their higher mileage 2012 3.6? BTW they also had to replace the right rear control arm due to one of the bushings being worn out!
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My commute is only 11.5 miles. 6 miles of it I can run 55-65. Am I building a carbon nightmare?
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My 87 Acura Integra with 170k gave SMOG reading in CA as below:
NOSpeed Max Meas15 760 87525 542 535
A m/c tells me it is the result of carbon build up on pistons.
Incidentally it gave the following in 2010 - upon retesting without any repair it passed:
NOSpeed Max Meas15 760 65625 542 678
Note: Recent oil change (Mobil 1 High Mileage), tune up, Thermostat, new PCV valve, NGK Plat spark
It is for "NO" - Nitrous Oxide
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I have a 2014 Sonata with 22k miles. I love this car but lately I've noticed valve rattle under acceleration. Brought this up with service tech and he said I'm not driving the car on long enough trips to keep it cleaned off. When I researched the GDI very little info comes up for Hyundai mainly vw and BMW. I guess what I'm asking is is the only fix for the carbon build up removing the intake and cleaning the valves manually or is there another way.
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2012 dodge caravan. Bought it used last year with 27k miles. Day after I bought it, it threw a misfire code. They said the spark plugs got wet when they washed the under carriage. Dried it out, cleared the code.
For the next month the car went from a slight shimmy during idle...progressed to strong shaking (its shakes, pauses, shakes...etc.) Finally another misfire code. Took it in and this is what the report says.
"Cylinder misfire on #4. Performed compression test found #4 cylinder compression at 100 PSI. All other cylinders at 150 PSI. Recommend to replace front cylinder head. Has burned exhaust valve seat. Replaced left cylinder head assembly."
About 2 months later check engine light comes on, car is over heating. Coolant bone dry. Replaced coolant, took it back in. They replaced the intake manifold?? Been slowly losing coolant. I have to replace it about every 2-3 months. I notice the car shakes worse when the coolant is low, with minimal shaking when coolant is replaced. Finally took it back in a few week ago when my husband got back from deployment. They said it was a loose bolt on the intake manifold causing the slow leak. They couldn't verify my complaint about the shaking.
Now, car still shaking. Its minimal on start up, gets worse the longer I idle. I can only feel the shaking while in idle. If I restart the car it goes back to minimal before progressing again. Took it back in. They verified the shaking, hooked it up to a computer, no codes or anything. Told me its normal. It CANT be normal, right? I neglected to check the coolant level before I took it back in. I left it with them saying they will look it over, but they don't think anything is wrong. This is exactly how it progressed when they ended up replacing the cylinder head. I have 1k miles left on the warranty, and am moving in 2 weeks 1500 miles away. I don't have time to wait for another code.
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Been told my EGR valve is ok on my 96 accord . But I may have carbon build up in my suction side . I used deep creep for week to loosen up the build up. What else can I do?
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I'm getting oil and fuel into the intake manifold every couple hundred miles. Oil level is in the middle of low and full mark. It's not like it's a huge amount of oil and fuel in the intake but it's enough to make the car misfire, bog out. Only codes I'm getting are misfire codes for all cylinder and reduce engine power code (forgot what code it actually is) but that's when the car completely shuts down and won't start with red triangle light. If I clean the intake out and unplug the battery for a few min I'm able to start the car again, but it will run really rough and white smoke will start to come out the exhaust (gas smell). I'm wondering if a bad maf would cause this. I've already cleaned it but still doing same thing. Don't really know what the specs or reading the bad is suppose to be so I'm kinda stuck to determined if I need a maf or not. Cars got about 242K miles.
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My friend and I are working on her '03 1.8t and I noticed a huge oil leak under the intake manifold. It looks like there's a tube that has broken off and is now just spewing oil all over the place. I tried to get pics the best I could, so here they are....
I'd imagine its something that needs to be fixed asap.
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Some technical issues here. Had the intake manifold replaced under extended warranty ('09 2.0 TSI, 115,000km); they cleaned out the carbon as well. There were all sorts of codes it was throwing, despite having new coils and plugs installed.
One more thing to do. I still have Crank Position Sensor code showing. Car runs fine (much better now actually),but I was told if I don't get this last code looked after, one day the car just won't start.
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Well, I had a check engine light that lasted only three days then it cleared itself without any intervention. I checked it with a vag-com and I discovered there was an issue with the intake manifold control. I ended up bringing it to the dealer since it is a fairly new passat, and the service department informed me that the Intake Manifold Runner Control needed to be replaced.
Below were the fault codes.
3 Faults Found:
012599 - Intake Manifold Runner Control: Basic Setting not Completed
P3137 - 001 - Upper Limit Exceeded - Intermittent
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 00100001
Fault Priority: 0
Fault Frequency: 1
Mileage: 33815 km
Time Indication: 0
[Code] .....
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When I got my 60K service last weekend, the dealer called me and explained that I had a "very small internal leak fro an emissions canister that was leaking into the intake/manifold". He said something like that. He also said that it doesn't do anything to the performance of the car, but that the leak will increase over time and will throw a MIL.
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I'm replacing my knock sensors and intake gaskets on a 2001 silverado and there is a lot of carbon buildup in the intake, what can i use to safely clean it with....
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My dad has 2006 passat 2.0T. In December 2010 he went overseas. During his absence the car was parked in garage and not in use.
So one day I decided to start the car and as soon as I turned it on the car made this noise and check engine light came on. Took the car to a private repair shop and found out the cylinder #3 was misfiring. The tune up for this car was due so I had all four spark plugs changed and the car ran fine for few days. Then couple of days later it started making the same sound and this time around the coil for cylinder #3 was replaced.
A few days after that check engine light came back and this time it was blinking and the engine was struggling to run, took it again to the workshop yesterday and this time another coil not sure which cylinder was replaced. (all this is done at a private workshop). I have a hunch that the car is going to run fine for a day or so and the problem is going to come back
I never had any major issues with it up until now. Bought this car new in 2006 from dealer. I am afraid that this might be a start of a downhill roll from here on I will drive the car tomorrow and see how it reacts.
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I've done just about everything me or my mechanic cannot figure out why cylinder #3 is misfiring has new plugs coilpacks checked wires etc. I love this car and will not put it to sleep!!
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I haven't started my passat for the winter and I finally did today. It was ruff start/idling and I pretty sure it was misfiring on one of the cylinders. I turned off the car and start it again...same thing, ruff idling like 3 cylinders were running. I waited five 5 mins and started it again, then it was a normal start on all cylinders. But the engine light came on, even though it started properly. I know I have to clear the code to get rid of the engine light. But I want to avoid any future misfiring. So I'm thinking new spark plug/coil overs.
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Today I was on my way back home from a weekend trip to see family when the CEL came on. The car was running fine no problems (we had driven 200 miles). Gas mileage was good, good power, no weird noises, engine temp was fine (it was 100 degrees outside). But being how the car has 39k on it and its the most expensive thing I own; I pulled over and had autozone scan it for me. It came up as Intake Manifold Sensor. I have never worked on this car but Im going to at some point, I'll replace it myself if it isn't to hard. I am wondering if it is as simple as replacing the sensor or could there be an underlying issue like a blown intake manifold gasket (like i said the car was running fine though)?
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Turned the key on my 2002 MC SS, V6, 3.8L, and the Intake Manifold exploded.
Intake Manifold Exploding on a GM V6, 3.8L? It sounded like a 12ga shotgun. Fortunately no one was looking into the engine compartment at the time as they likely would have been killed given the amount of shrapnel from this explosion. Note that the explosion was powerful enough to blow off the oil cap, which is screwed on with very thick threads.
The vehicle was at my mechanics at time and in his forty years he's not seen an intake manifold explode save for those residing on Top Fuel or Funny Cars.
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One of the nozzles on the back of my intake manifold broke off. I don't know how to better explain it. The ones the back of the manifold closest to the firewall there are several hoses that hook to the manifold. The second one from the left broke.
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