Passat - Volkswagen :: Engine Quit Suddenly While Driving Home On Freeway
Feb 22, 2014
The engine of our VW Passat 2000 quit suddenly while driving home on freeway. Night. Rain. We put on the flasher lights as we were slowing while trying to move to the right lane. No shoulder as we we were on a bridge. Do not remember being rammed from behind. Had a new battery installed one month earlier after VW mechanics could find no reason for intermittent non-starting of car which we had been experiencing. They had run "fault codes".
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I have a 2003 new beetle with a manual transmission. It has about 60K miles. I was driving down the freeway (about 60mph steady, not stop and go), and my car suddenly lost all acceleration. Pressing on the gas did not rev the engine. Otherwise, my car was on. I pulled over and put it in first and it still would not go. However, when I turned my car off and back on, it started like a charm and I was able to move and accelerate. .
I took it to the mechanic and they could not find anything wrong with it except that the battery was low. I don't think that could be the problem, could it? I'd hate to bring the car back out on the freeway, but how can I fix it if there's nothing wrong with it.
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Okay, So this has happened to me about five times now over the past year or so. I will be driving and my car will literally shut off. yesterday, I was driving on the freeway and was just cruising at 75mph when all of a sudden out of no where my car makes a big jolt and then the rpm's go from around 3k to 0. I have had this in the shop for this problem many times and no one can really seem to figure out what is wrong. when my car shuts off while im driving, the oil light comes on, traction control light comes on, as well as the battery light. What's even more weird about this problem is once the car stops, if i try to start it right away it wont fire up... It will just roll over. But. if I wait for a while the car starts and drives normal with all the lights off. This is not only annoying but very dangerous.
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Asking for my Dad. Driving lights suddenly quit coming on. dealer checked fuses - no problem. Dealer (oil change guy) not sure how to access lights for bulb checking or replacement. Says you need to remove front bumper cover...
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My 2005 GTI has been decelerating while I'm driving on a certain section of the freeway. It's a steady incline for about 1/2 a mile, the altitude changes (my ears tend to pop). The car starts to decelerate, I take my foot off the pedal for a couple of seconds and then press the accelerator and it's usually fine.
However, a couple of weeks ago it totally stalled out on the freeway, it restarted fine. I took it into the shop the next day, my mechanic is not 100% sure what the problem is, he replaced the crankshaft sensor. Turns out it's not the source of the problem, I am still decelerating on the freeway. I had a tune-up and new battery installed a month ago, so I don't know what the problem is.
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Why my 2004 Jetta 1.8T Stalls out while Driving? It usually happens while on the Freeway, 60-70 Mph, I Coast to the Shoulder then it starts back up again...
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OK so here's the deal. Driving around town @ lower speeds I've yet to have this problem. When driving at freeway speeds seems like between 1/4 tank & reserve all of a sudden the power just drops off . I mean like the ignition has been turned off. No throttle response .. nothing..... just begins coasting & dropping speed. When throttle is depressed... totally dead. This lasts for about 5-10 seconds then after coasting & looking where to pull off the highway all of a sudden the engine kicks back in like nothing ever happened. Where to look for Jetta MK 4 18T Fuel supply problem??
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I was driving on the highway in my 2001 jetta (332000 km) on the cruise control yesterday and suddenly it just started slowing down and stopped. Putting my feet in the gas did nothing . Before stopping completely the battery light came on. After won't start anymore, just making a sound like it is trying but turn in the butter. To be honest the check engine has been on for a while but we are pretty sure that is the glow plugs because it is a recurrent problem... Nothing else light up and there was no sound or smoke.
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I bought my Saturn Vue Hybrid and was driving for a week when I heard a sound while driving and suddenly the air conditioning quit working and started blowing hot air. I took it to Pep Boys and they told me to take it to a dealership. After three hours and 143 bucks I was told the A/C clutch appears to have come off of the compressor. I have noticed others have had this same issue in Hybrids. Is this a recall or what do I do since this repair is not a cheap one? Also, what other models have the same ac compressor/ clutch for purchasing?
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While driving with cruise control set at 80 mph in my 2002 Toyota Camry, the engine suddenly revved up to 4200 rpm while going up a hill on the freeway. I was wondering if this sudden high rpm could do damage to the engine? The car has 163,000 miles on it.
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I was going up a little grade a couple days ago and the engine suddenly quit, the temperature and oil light came on, the heat gauge buried on hot, and it threw a code. I pulled over and it was still idling so I made a U-turn but it was in limp mode and would only go about 10 MPH, so I made it home and put water in it so it's good now but it still says service engine soon. What is the code going to say and am going to have to pay to get rid of it. (the light). I have a new cap coming.
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I have a 1992 1500K extended cab 4WD with the 5.7L V8 engine (147,000 miles). It has been driving well since I bought it last winter. 2 days ago I took it on a longer road trip and it was doing great. Slowed down to take a 90 degree turn and the transmission suddenly hit "limp home" mode. It felt like it wasn't up-shifting out of 2nd , high RPMs while driving no more than 30mph on flat road. I have the proper amount of fluid and it is still red/pink and does not smell burnt.
Someone suggested that I check the transmission fuse but in looking through the fuse box I can't tell which is the tranny fuse. Also, I can only find one fuse box on my truck. Is there a 2nd?I feel like my next step is to take it to a transmission shop but I want to rule out whatever I can at home. I have zero experience with transmission work and don't want to get scammed into a rebuild if I don't need one. The transmission was working fine up until 2 days ago. No slipping, no hard shifting, and no noise...
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This morning, I started my truck to go somewhere and less than a minute into my drive, the engine suddenly died. I tried cranking it again to which it started but less than a second later it quit again. That's when I noticed my FMP on my SGII was at 0v. When I got it back into a parking spot, I pulled the FICM and tested the connectors as well as the relays and they all were normal.
I decided I will be pulling the FICM again tomorrow and I will be sending it back to FICM repair.com for them to look at as I got a new one from them about 8 months ago. However if it is in case the wiring harness, where is a good place to look. I don't think it is the wiring harness as it seems to have voltage at the connectors.
Also this may be related but earlier this week, my Scangauge froze and I unplugged it and plugged it back in and it didn't connect to the PCM until I reset the SGII to factory settings. I wonder if this is related?
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My tpms light came on tonight after 15 minutes of freeway driving. I checked the pressure in all 4 tires, and they were all right about 36 lbs. The door jamb tire info says 33 lbs cold, so this seems about right to me. why the tpms light might have come on? Is the spare tire hooked up to the tpms system? My Passat is only 1 month old, so I'm surprised the light came on.
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I have a 1999 GMC with 280,000 miles. No engine light on. I was going down the freeway and the engine light flashed 5 times and the engine quit. Left 4 ways on and the battery went dead. Towed home. Checked code and it was p0304. Because the battery was dead for a few days I don't know if it's from back then or just now with me trying to start it. The fuel presser is good and it holds presser. The engine try's to start I think. It stumbles and simi locks like it's trying to fire but not enough to keep it turning. fuse's look good, the ones I know of.
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I was driving on the freeway and the trac and engine lights came on.. Noticed that I am no longer getting the Eco light when coasting. Ran the codes and it's P0157 and C1201. I have recently changed tires, not sure what other reason can cause the lights.
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I have a 1999 Toyota Camry 2.2 4cyl with 220K+ miles.
I was driving on the freeway when I heard a loud "POP" and rat-tat-tat cracking sound from my engine. I managed to pull over on the road where the car rolled to a stop. I tried to start up the car and the starter cranked, but the engine wouldn't start.
I thought it might be a broken timing belt since a similar situation happened to a family member (who was driving another Camry) a couple of years ago, and we were able to fix the car by changing the worn down timing belt. So today I spent all day taking things apart and finally got to the timing belt, but to my surprise, the belt looks completely fine.
I fear I might've actually blown the engine but don't know how to diagnose this.
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Okay, I've had about enough of this car. Recently, while driving, the car quit accelerating completely. I believe the Check Engine light came on but I'm not sure; I was rather frustrated at that particular time. Anyways, I've heard a few different theories as to what it can be (i.e. coil park, fuel pump, pump relay, etc.) I've really not got a lot of money to work with at all and I'm on the verge of just selling it as is. The car now will not turn over. I recently replaced the battery and the lights and stereo, etc. work.
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I have a 2002 v6 Camry with over 270k on it. Today the Check engine light came on while driving on the freeway. When I got home I used my scan tool and it gave me the following codes.
P0128, P0440, P0446 and P0440, P0441, P0446 pending.
I understand that the 128 has to do with coolant temp and that the other codes are evap system related.
What I'm trying to figure out is what might have caused them to all occur at the same time. I know once with my 98 Camry it threw a P0125 which had to do with coolant temp issues but it also threw several other codes for a bad 02 sensor and the 125 was just a false code (replaced the 02 sensors and they went away). If this 128 is possibly a false code or if I also have a bad thermostat/sensor on top of an evap system issue.
Also. coolant level is good and I checked the gas cap and insured it was on tight, reset the codes and am waiting to see what comes back.
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I was on my way to work this morning when the car just stopped accelerating (or so it felt), all the dash lights came on, I pulled over to the side of the freeway (I was very lucky). Radio and a/c were still working. Powered off, powered on too soon a couple of times - the red triangle and check engine both came on again. Cooled my jets and gave it a few minutes, powered on and the red triangle was gone, but the check engine was still on. Drives perfectly, no problems w/either gas or hybrid engine.
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Background: During the last couple of weeks, this happened at least twice: I had to turn the engine for a good 3-4 seconds before it started, and after it did, the EPC light came on. The car drove normally (short lunch drive) and later started with no problem and no EPC light.
This morning, during some stop and go driving, it felt like the engine cutoff for a split second and the EPC light came on. The car then drove fine but the light obviously stayed on. Then on the freeway at 70mph, the engine cutoff, the RPM needle dropped to zero, but within a second or two it came back to life. The "STOP driving" sign blinked just once or twice during this time and disappeared." I can't say for sure, but I am almost sure the engine came back on its own before I cranked it. After that, it felt like it was about to go anytime, but that could have been psychological. Got to work, turned off the engine, turned it on again, and no EPC light!
I found his tidbit on the web claiming it could be the MAF. I also have had the secondary air pump code for the last few months. Could that also be triggered by a faulty MAF? Obviously, I am taking the car to the dealer tomorrow morning. I hope it will be easy to diagnose and fix. Otherwise, it might be time to dump the car?
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