Passat - Volkswagen :: 2003 Won't Turn Over When Trying To Start - New Battery Installed
Dec 27, 2012
So my 2003 VW Passat will not start. I last drove it a few days ago, and it has been sitting inside a nice warm garage. The battery was replaced a few months ago. The car doesn't "turn over" but just has a steady sound when you try to start it. It's not a clicking sound like I had 6 months ago with it. I attached a link to the audio file of me trying to start it today. There are no warning lights per se coming on only the typical ones coming up when the ignition key is turned on. The lights and interior lamps come on indicating there seems to be power but nothing else. The plugs were cleaned a few months ago as well. Could it be alternator? I could try jumping it but the sound it makes leads me to believe there is plenty of juice.
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I had to replace the battery on my 2003 Passat (without temporary power thru the lighter) and shortly afterward the check engine light came on. I got a scan tool that indicated three fault codes shown below. Are these likely the result of the battery change and I can reset the faults or should I take the car into a shop to have them checked out.
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I have a 2003 Volkswagen Passat, and I'm having some trouble with it. When I turn the steering wheel, there is a groaning sound both to the left and right. the other problem is when I'm accelerating slowly up an incline and turning the steering wheel, there a type of clicking sound I hear and feel on my accelerator. By the way, it's a V6 engine, Front wheel drive.
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My mechanic installed a new Hybrid battery in my 2005 Pruis using the repair manual and a video that showed him how to do it. He also replaced the harness and the ECU battery. When he tries to start the car all of the lights light up on the dash but no ready light on the start button and the car will not start. The instructions did not say anything about this issue so he is lost! He thinks the smart key and the ECU have to be synced in some way but doesn't know how to do it. (none of the books covered this.
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Over last two years have replaced a few alternators and (3?) batteries in my 2000 Solara SLE with 150,000 miles. However, In last three months I have had three additional alternators. Car wouldn't start, had it towed, and a mechanic put in new alternator and battery. Happens again, car won't start (now own a jump charger!), and the same mechanic puts in new alternator. Happens again and Mechanic #1 says he has checked it and its fine. I then go to my regular mechanic... Says its the alternator which is bad (when you put the AC and Radio on, it appears to charge for a while, but if you leave it running it will stop charging and then after a while it will go to overcharging and undercharging. I noticed when driving on highway my lights will brighten and dim).
He sends me back to the first mechanic because the alternator is bad. They put in a new alternator. I take it back to Mechanic #2 my regular mechanic to test it so I don't get stuck. He says its still doing the same thing. I tell him I will pay to have him put in the new alternator and he can own the warranty.... He sends me to a car electrical specialist. After having my car for 3 days the car electrical specialist just called and said in 30 years he has never given up but he has now. May or may not be related: My check engine light was coming on and I had mechanic put in new oxygen sensors. I also have intermittant traction light and ABS light coming on and the check engine light will sometimes come on too. My dash board feels like Christmas...
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My mechanic installed a new Hybrid battery in my 2005 Pruis using the repair manual and a video that showed him how to do it. He also replaced the harness and the ECU battery. When he tries to start the car all of the lights light up on the dash but no ready light on the start button and the car will not start. The instructions did not say anything about this issue so he is lost! He thinks the smart key and the ECU have to be synced in some way but doesn't know how to do it.
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I purchased a new 12 volt battery from Toyota and installed in my 2009 Prius. My car wouldn't start. So, next I tried to jumpstart it. I pressed the Power button (the light was GREEN) but it wouldn't start. I pressed the Power button again (The light was AMBER) and the hybrid drive engaged and the CHECK ENGINE light came on; however, the engine didn't start, the dashboard didn't light up and the READY indicator did not appear.
Next, I grabbed the Owner's Manual and went through the Troubleshooting sequence. Engine still wouldn't start.
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I bought a used 2008 Rabbit about two year ago. Recently, I have been experiencing two problems:
Sometimes, when I am idling at a light, my car stalls and the EPC and battery lights turn on. If I turn off my car and back on it then runs fine.
Last night, I drove my car to two stops. At the second stop, the car wouldn't turn on. I got a jump and drove it straight to the mechanic's. This morning they said the battery is charged and the car is turning on fine. They cannot find anything so far that is draining the battery.
What might be causing these two problems?
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Today the dealership did a tuneup, replaced the timing belt, and put in a new battery. I started my car and the radio did not work. They went out and reset the radio but said it would not reset, they check the fuses and said they were all good. They took my radio out and put a different radio in and that radio worked which they said then proved to them that it was the radio itself rather than a problem in the vehicles wiring. They told me it must be a coincidence that it just broke on it's own at the same time they were changing the battery. They assured me that nothing they did could possibly have anything to do with this. They want to send out my radio for repair and have me pay for it.
Is it possible they did not change the battery properly? Could something they did kill my radio?This just does not make sense to be but I did not want to cause a comotion until I have further knowledge on this subject.
My car is a 2003 Hyundai Sante Fe with 92,000 miles on it.
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Just bought a used 2003 Dodge Neon SXT for my daughter. The car didn't pass inspection because the fog lights didn't turn off unless I turned the headlight switch completely off. I ordered a new switch w/ fog light from Napa, disconnected the negative cable, removed switch assembly, removed the wiper switch and installed on new headlight switch hooked up harnesses and reinstalled. I was so happy to find the fog lights now turned off.....until I took the car for a ride and found my turn signals and hazards not working......
Repeated the disassembly process making sure harness was completely seated, it was, took assembly back out, looked over the harness, all appeared good, hooked up just the old headlight switch (left windshield wiper switch on the assembly, did not plug in) and hazards now flashed but no turn signal. Reinstalled the new one again still no turn or hazards....thoroughly aggravated I walked away at this point. Am I missing something? The turn signal fuse is the same as the power mirrors, mirrors are working.
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I have worked on my 1994 Jetta GL many times when I had to disconnect the battery. This time every time I would reconnect the battery the car would continue to honk. Usually it honks only once. I finally figured that although I had taken off the key from the ignition, the key position had been left in position as if the key was still in (old car feature). My realization was too late. I inserted the key and made sure to turn it to off position before removing it and reconnecting the battery. After I did, the engine cannot start any more. When I turn the key I get a rattling sound from the general area of the key, but the engine does not start. What did I ruin now?
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Our 2000 Volkswagen Jetta will sometimes not start, no lights/power on dash or anywhere, battery seems dead. But when we hook up jumper cables (only to itself) and spark the wires by touching the loose ends together, power is restored and the car starts and runs normally.
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Its a 1996 vw gti 2.0 it wont stay running. Changed the spark plugs, air filter, distributor cap. itll crank but wont start. if i give it gas it will start. but you have to stay on the gas to keep it running. when you let off the gas, it dies right away. Could it be the mass air flow sensor?
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I have a '97 VW GTI. My battery died, I left the lights on, but when I went to get a jump, the minute the cables were connected, my car alarm went off. Fortunately, we cut the power and the alarm ate up what little juice was supplied, but my car would not turn over. We tried to pop the clutch to get it started, but nothing. What can I do?
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I owned a 1986 (or '87) Scirocco 16V for nearly 20 years and 200k miles. From the very beginning the car was perfect EXCEPT once in a while, under seemingly totally random conditions, it would simply not turn over. The start would crank as long as I desired, but it simply wouldn't turn over. There was definitely nothing wrong with the engine or the battery. I could roll-start the thing fine (in fact, I took to parking on hills!), and MOST of the time it turned over instantly.
In fact, sometimes when it would get into this mode, I could walk away for an hour, and come back without moving the car, and it would start right up. It was just frustratingly unpredictable -- maybe 1 in 20 times it would simply get into this mode -- no correlation that I could ever figure out -- not the car being warm or cold, or the weather, or anything. I had it in the shop twice for this in my first year of owning it (~'87). The first time, they claimed to fix it, and nothing changed -- same problem. So I took it back. The second time, they again claimed to have fixed it... never had the problem again.
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Shut my truck off for about 15 minutes and wouldn't start back up. Installed new fuel filter. And gonna try changing cps. Torque says Rpm 180
Ipw. Bouncing between 600 - 3000 Hpop. 250 while cranking Voltage 10.9 while cranking. Ipr starts about 15% and slowly climbs to about 88%
Fuel pressure about 65%
Tried unplugging cps. Gonna check oil now though I check it every time I fill up and it never uses any.
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My son has a 1999 VW Passat Wagon with a 1.8 turbo 230,000 miles. He came home from work, parked his car and the next morning for school it did not start. He inserted the key and turned it and the engine would not crank. All dash lights worked and such. He did notice the power window were not working and the interior lights either. He jump the car and worked fine, until he shut it off, and again needed a jump to start.
I looked at it, battery and alternator tested fine, battery is only a year old. the car now randomly will start on it own or not, even with a jump. I had no codes pop up on the computer scan. I am hearing things like climate control module and another fuel module in trunk and water issues. I was told to check connect at starter and change iginition switch. Have not done the ignition switch yet will need to get car up on block for starter as my son has lowered the car quite a bit. I had the computer codes checked by a VW tech and he seems stumped too.
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2002 vw Passat GLX 4motion... Car has been driving fine with no issues. Then out of the blue it just won't start back up. Battery is 6 months old. And wouldn't start with a jump. I think it is a completely different issue. The power windows stopped working but other features do work like stereo power seats interior lights...Main problem is no lights on dash whatsoever. But when key turns from accessories position to starting position nothing happens. No clicking, no resistance between positions it is as if the ignition is just missing..?
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I have a volkswagen TDi 1.9 automatic which is using coolant more on short runs than on motorway and produces white smoke/steam on start up even when not cold which disappears after a few seconds. Other symptom is doesn't accelerate though goes OK when once up to speed. Have has cylinder head checked and new gasket so that is not the culprit and also new heat exchanger. There is also a gurgling noise which seems to be coming from the dash board though I am not sure if these things are related. I have read that the automatic has a water cooled EGR, could this be it??
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Just picked up my car from the shop last night. Had a full tune up, air filter replaced, radiator upper hose replaced (was leaking), transmission service and an oil change. When I picked up the car at night I heard that it sounded a little off when starting but I was so excited to have it back that I drove it home. Once I was on the freeway, no weird noises and it drove perfectly fine. This morning when I started it up again the sound was there again. I can only explain it as a sort of high pitched humming. I pulled away from the curb and it made more noise - I heard that sound once when I needed power steering fluid. I put the car in park and popped the hood. Power steering fluid was full. My mom suggested I restart the car so she could hear the sound. This time when I started the car it sounded fine. Typical.
I drove it to work and it drove fine and never made that noise again.
(car is a VW Passat 01')
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So it only happens when I start the car, I'm thinking its the starting needing to be replace. The car starts everytime, Just when it cranks it makes a the noise, but fires up right away. The noise is gone once the car is started.
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