Passat - Volkswagen :: 2003 V6 Jerks When Light Throttle Is Applied While Driving Under 2000 Rpm
Feb 26, 2012
I have a 2003 Passat Wagon, V6, with a little over 80,000 miles that has developed a problem that I have not been able to get fixed: after the engine has warmed up, when driving at under 2000 rpm, the car jerks when light throttle is applied. I could also describe it as a thump or shudder. There is a small blip in the tachometer when it jerks. If I give it enough gas to cause the transmission to shift up, it does not jerk, nor does it do it over 2000 rpm. It recently had it's 80,000 mile service and runs very strong and smoothly when given enough gas.
My dealer couldn't figure what was wrong, and after they consulted with VW decided that I must have put in some bad gas. The problem was to have gone away after 5 or 6 tanks of good gas. After that didn't solve the problem, I went to an independent repair shop. They told me that it couldn't be misfire because there were no codes registered. Their theory is that it is problem with the transmission, whereby with light throttle the transmission is told to shift but then slips right back down, thus the jerkiness. They couldn't offer a solution, however. What to do about it?
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Brake warning light came on. Diagnosed as bad abs module. Mechanic replaced twice. One shell sensor continues to read not turning while it is turning. Mechanic has check continuity, it's fine. Seems to have a short. He cannot find where it is and next step is ripping out much interior to track tiny wire. Will not pass state inspection with brake warning light on.
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(2000 F-350, 7.3L, 205k miles) Over this weekend, I noticed while driving mostly in the lower gears, that there was a slight hesitation with the throttle pedal depressed about half way or less. Seem to get worse as the day went by, but no lights or anything came on. Changed the fuel filter and added a fuel injection cleaner to the tank. Checked the oil and it was low, so I filled it to the correct amount.
Drove it around the next day, and it seemed to be good, until it warmed up some, and continued to hesitate. The hesitation seems as if it's not getting constant fuel, and the truck jerks a little. Once you get up to over 2000 rpms, it goes away. Looking up other reviews on similar issues, most have pointed to the throttle pedal sensor and just changed out the pedal assembly. Before I take it that far, I wanted to see what was the corrective action.
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We have a 2003 VW Passat 1.8, front wheel drive. The check engine light is on. The code is p0778. When we start the car the gears light display lights up in red for all gears . We put the car in reverse, back out the garage and when we stop, we get a bump. And we shift to drive the car moves slowly with some hesitation.
Sometimes after the car runs for 10 minutes, then turned of for a few second then started up again, the problem goes away. Before this problem started, we would start the car in the mornings, and put in "R" , and only the reverse gear would light up. (which is the way it is suppose to work).
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My Corolla seems to be dying on me. What could be wrong with it.
It burns oil (a lot: 1.5 liters on 380 km). Black/ blue? smoke from the exhaust.
Idles very low at times (800rpm) and a little high at other times (1300rpm?).
Jerks / stutters while driving (since valve cover gasket (I think that was the one) was changed, due to burning of oil)
Clicking sounds while accelerating.
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I am new and just picked up a used 2008 Passat yesterday. It has 42k miles and what I had thought in perfect condition. I wanted to see what was going on before I took it into the dealership to get repaired. When driving I hear a constant whine / (like water is on in a house) type noise. Its noticeable all the time except when the brake is fully applied. It comes back once the brake is depressed and in park. I thought at first maybe it was just a brake pad rubbing but the constant noise in Park confirms its something else.
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2003 Honda Odyssey EXL with 236,000 miles on it was jerking, very scary, and the rpms were revving up while driving. We asked around and had it checked and was told it was the transmission. We waited 9 months, not wanting to put the money into it and let it sit, not driving it at all. Then we decided to fix it last week.
We thought we were replacing the transmission, but, after working on it, the place we took it - very reputable - only did the solenoid, saying that fixed the problem. When we took it home an hour away, it was fine - much, much better than when we left it. But, the next day my husband felt a small jerk. We took it back that night and left it with them for a couple more days. They couldn't make the problem recur, so they sent it home with us. We were getting ready to go on a major road trip, so we had the oil changed, and all other stuff for regular maintenance seemed good. Had all fluids checked and new tires on and new battery. Also had recall done on ignition switch. Left on major cross-country trip. Drove about 5 hours and it started again. Just a little - one time. No place was open and we were on deadline, so kept driving cross country.
Eventually the check engine light came on (can't remember if it was before or after started jerking), but that has been on for a couple years and we keep having it checked and they tell us it is not worth fixing - hard to figure out the emissions problem. Could be several things. One was the solenoid, another the gas cap. We had both those replaced. Problem has gotten worse as we have crossed the U.S. on Memorial Day weekend - so no opportunity to have mechanic look at it or get codes due to everything closed. Checked transmission and oil fluid levels, and they are good.
If we accelerate VERY slowly, we are okay. But, the TCS light comes on if we accelerate too quickly sometimes, and it will stay on until we stop and turn the car off. Sometimes it doesn't come on at all, but the check engine light is always on now. In the last 200 miles, we now have occasionally the D (drive) light flash - if the TCS light is on and we are getting jerking, and the rpm's stay up in the high 2's or close to 3 and the van doesn't seem to shift into the higher gear. If it flashes, it won't quit or shift into the higher gear until we stop for maybe 20-30 minutes. Then, the light will stop flashing and the rpms are okay. As long as we accelerate really slowly, really slowly, it won't flash again. One time, on an off-ramp, we jerked when we were decelerating, but that was only once in about 1500 miles - or ever as far as I can remember. The jerk on acceleration has actually been going on for a couple years, but it was always just momentary and only occasionally. Now it is a problem.
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I made a horrible decision after my Ranger got totaled and bought a 94 Jetta... When I first got it, the car had trouble starting in the rain but eventually she would fire up. If I drove it immediately away after finally starting, it would jerk really bad when I gave it gas while shifting, until 4th gear. Once she ran for a bit it would smooth out. Nowadays if it rains the car won't start at all, just keeps turning over and I have to wait for a nice dry sunny day then it starts right up.
My mechanic worked on it recently and replaced a sensor in the distributor and the crank shaft sensor, because they showed up on the diagnostic as bad. Once his work was complete, he said he sprayed the engine with water and it started. So that was a week ago and it's raining and it won't start, the engine just turns over so it's not a starter issue. The car only has 143,000 but I am gonna get rid of it this fall but I just wanna know what this wet weather problem is.
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For several months, my 2004 VW Passat (1.8L Turbo FWD) has been making an intermittent squeal while driving. The noise is brief (lasting usually a fraction of a second), is loud, screechy and high-pitched (like a belt slipping), sounds as if it's originating from the rear passenger's-side area, and always occurs just after I begin to drive after being stopped at a light or stop sign. It occurs most frequently when I make a left turn (never a right turn) and sometimes when proceeding without a turn. When it's heard while driving straight, it's accompanied by a momentary hesitation in speed, but whether this is just engine hesitation or active deceleration I cannot tell. The problem began in the fall of 2011, stopped during the cooler months (I live in southwest Florida), and began again once ambient temperatures climbed again into the 80's. It usually occurs once or twice per day (but some days not at all) and typically in the afternoons when the air temperatures are warmer. I never hear it when the brakes are applied, and the brakes do not squeal. The noise is not accompanied by any dashboard warning lights.
My local VW dealership claimed that the cause was rusty rotors (as I had recently moved to FL from New England), and I spent several hundred dollars having the rotors replaced, only to have the problem reoccur as I was leaving the dealership's parking lot. I now have an independent mechanic who has been road-testing the car for several days and has heard the squeal once but is puzzled as to its cause. There is no uneven brake wear to suggest that the calipers are being applied unevenly. About 2 months ago, when the squealing noise was absent in the winter months, my mechanic removed a 6mm piece of aggregate which had become lodged beneath the vacuum plate of the rear driver's-side brake assembly. However, a month later, the squeal returned as before. My mechanic is truly puzzled and at this time can only suggest having the rear brakes and calipers replaced.
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I have a whistle noise which I can hear since a month, it comes only when : - I drove more than 20 miles ( related to warming up of a piece of the car ? ) - I drive at least at 30 mph - Same noise If I switch to "neutral" position - Same noise if I'm braking or not, just related to the current speed - The noise is coming from the outside, but the high pitch makes it hard to locate...
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So I have a 2003 Passat wagon. While driving down the road with no brake pressure applied the front right brake makes a squealing noise. As if the caliper doesn't release pressure....what should I do? Any hints?
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Car is stock and I seem to be getting a lot of jerking when I am on and off of the throttle peddle. It feels like a combination of sloppy motor mounts and a throttle response issue. What may be causing this? I am willing to bet that the motor mounts are partly to blame but it seems that there is more going on here.
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2000 F-150 Triton V-8, Super Cab, 2WD, ~170,000 miles, 4-wheel ABS (one speed sensor on each front wheel and one on the rear differential). The ABS light comes on a few minutes after driving. It seems to take a little bit longer for the light to come on when the weather is colder.
I used a Cen-Tech 60794 OBD II/CAN with ABS scan tool with key on, engine off, and the below sequence. No codes were detected. I then left the scanner connected but powered off and drove around until the ABS light came on. Pulled into a parking lot with engine running, powered up the scan tool and went through the following menu choices:
Diagnostics
ABS
Area - USA vehicles
Model - Ford
Although the tool's instruction manual has several more items that may or may not be required (VIN digits, model year, etc), the next thing I saw is a message indicating the scanner is linking with the vehicle computer. During that time the ABS light went out. Next on the scan tool display my choice was to read codes or erase codes. I selected "Read codes" and the display said there are no codes in the module.
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Wagon won't hold power steering fluid - could not see leak on hose along engine. what are other causes of leaks?or fixes?
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The engine of our VW Passat 2000 quit suddenly while driving home on freeway. Night. Rain. We put on the flasher lights as we were slowing while trying to move to the right lane. No shoulder as we we were on a bridge. Do not remember being rammed from behind. Had a new battery installed one month earlier after VW mechanics could find no reason for intermittent non-starting of car which we had been experiencing. They had run "fault codes".
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My '03 JETTA stalled on the hwy while I was driving...it just lost power and the battery light came on. I had the blower on and the radio, and the lights as it was nighttime...i turned the key to the off position and turned it back on and the car started without hesitation...what could have caused that to happen?... Battery is brand new and vehicle just had a tune up.
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2003 VW Eurovan VR-6 died while driving as if the key was turned off. The van was running great before this episode. Now, van will start, but die after about 4 secs. Changed fuel pump relay, engine control module relay, and will run with stater fluid sprayed in throttle body. Fuel pump or perhaps immobilizer?
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1998 3.1 ... 206,000 miles on it. Transmission rebulit about 25,000 miles ago, about 1 year ago.
Yesterday and again today from initial takeoff i noticed a whistling sound from about 20 mph up to about 40 mph.and it seemed to increase as i applied throttle. Is there some kind of vacuum to do with the choke maybe causing it?
I didnt notice the whistle after car was operating temp.
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I just rebuilt the Autolite 4100 on the 390 in the 62 T-Bird I just purchased. Starts up and idles great, but when I apply slight throttle, the motor shuts off. If I apply a lot of throttle quickly, it picks up fine and drives with no problems. No sputtering, or backfiring. I just slightly apply the throttle, the RPMs drop, and the motor cuts out completely. Starts right back up when I turn the key, but does the same thing, at any temp.
I originally thought it was a vacuum leak, but checked what few vacuum lines there were, with no leaks to be found. Hooked up my vacuum gauge and it read at a steady 15psi.
New mechanical fuel pump, haven't checked the fuel pressure yet, but I installed a see through inline filter, and it's filled up and pumps fine.
Timing is at 8 degrees, and vacuum advance is hooked up to the only vacuum line in the carb. New cap, rotor, plugs and wires.
I adjusted the idle mixture screws down until the idle dropped, then turned them out a half turn (I've read on here it should only be a 1/4 turn, so I'll adjust that later today). When I was messing with the carb yesterday, I noticed the inlet check ball retaining screw was leaking a bit of fuel, so I went over the carb and checked all the screws and tightened down what needed it.
When I rebuilt the carb, I left the original needle & seat assembly, since they were in great shape, and the ones in the rebuild kit were much smaller. The choke plate needs to be adjusted, as it doesn't open up all the way at full temp, but the engine did the same thing with the plate held open all the way open.
I've gone through everything else I think it could be, so I'm figuring it's the carb. This is my second carb rebuild ever (first was a Motorcraft 2150) and it went smoothly, and I double checked the floats and measurements.
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I have an '03 Passat GLX Sedan. My driving/fog light is out on the drivers side. How to take off the bottom plastic grill and access the driving light? I think it is just a bulb. However, if I need a whole new light, any recommendation for both the bulb and the whole assembly.
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A question for you 3.6 owners. I have a 2006 3.6 Sport that I love, but I have this throttle thunking that drives me nuts. What happens is, when I'm going about 25- 30 miles per hour at around 2000 rpms and let of the gas for a second or two, then just lightly punch the pedal, I get this slappy thunky noise that I hear and feel.
I've had it to two different dealers and both told me they can't find anything wrong and it's normal. They acknowledge that they hear and feel it, but again tell me it's normal.
I've driven a lot of cars and never felt this sensation, so to me, it's abnormal. Since I've never driven another 3.6 I have nothing to compare it to and of course both the dealers didn't have a V6 on the lot for me to drive to verify that it is indeed "normal".
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