We recently had the timing belt replaced in our 2003 Volkswagen Passat (1.8T). Now it shakes and vibrates badly when we put it in drive and idle. It ran smoothly before we had the belt replaced. The mechanic hasn't found a solution yet.
View 2 Replies99 passat 1.8t with 5spd has 95k on it. 2 weeks ago my ex wifes car broke the timing belt and bent 12 valves so brought it to mechanics to get repaired and got it back seems to start up fine but when shes driving it stalls out on her. Mechanic says its something do with electronic throttle and nothing to do with his work. No check engine codes yet anyways .
View 1 RepliesToday I had my 2004 1.8T Passat in the shop for a few minor things. The car has only 89,000 KM's (NOT MILES~ I live in Canada) on it. They told me that my serpentine belt was needing to be replaced (which I knew) and they recommended that I to my timing belt at the same time. They told me that you can buy a kit that has the timing belt, tensioner and water pump in it. Anywhere I have read it has said to change your timing belt at 120,000 KMs.
View 2 RepliesI just had my timing belt, water pump, etc. replaced at a reputable indie VW shop. I just got the car back and it seems to idle a bit rough. The car used to purr like a kitten but now it shakes a bit in idle. Seems to run fine but the idle is rough. I'm going to bring it back to the shop on Monday. Can the timing be off a bit? Will it ever purr like a kitten again?
View 2 RepliesI drive a car I am extremely reliant on. I don't have money to buy a new one and I may be a bit over protective of this car. It is in excellent shape, I bought it with 96K and whoever owned it took good care of it. I changed the battery pretty much right away, and the auto parts store guy said it looked like it was the original battery. So I suspect the timing belt is original too, (along with the clutch, which works great BTW). I don't know anything about cars short of what I have heard on CT, but it seems there is a trend towards having to change the timing belt at 80-90K And I know that a worn out timing belt can have no symptoms and essentially ruin your car if it breaks.
I took my car for the blue plate special, and it has been to the dealer a couple of times for some repairs where they also do the general service and see if they can find something to charge me for and in all cases, my car had nothing they would identify and repair. Fluids are good air filters are good etc. When I took it to the little shop on the corner I got the same report, and when I picked it up I asked, well how does the timing belt look? And he said. I can't tell you, you would have to take it apart to find out. So my questions are, as I do not know if the timing belt has been changed by previous owners. should I just go for it and have someone change the timing belt as part of my regular maintenance plan now, or is there some nifty way to find out if it needs changing without having to spend an arm and a leg?
I'm in the middle of doing a timing belt and as I was slipping the new belt on my crankshaft moved! To my horror my timing mark erased after I used some brake parts cleaner to blow off the area. What can I do to get that bolt back to TDC?
2003 Passat 1.8t
Changed the timing belt. Used the red mark up top and the cut in the block on the lower one to get TDC. Changed everything with new parts. Double checked the marks after the belts were on (rotated by hand through two full turns and checked to see if the marks were in the same spot). I followed the write up that was posted here by U95.
Anyway, the car won't start. It tries cranking, but won't actually start. There is fuel and the battery should be good to go. There shouldn't be any Fuel/Compression/Air issues.
I guess my question is: If the timing belt is not tightened enough, would that keep it from firing?
Also, in trying to crank it by key every thing sounds normal (no knocks or pings or valves getting bent sounds) and turning by hand gives just the little bit or normal resistance but spins nicely.
I'll probably take the battery to get it load (I used my tender to try and start it as well, didn't make a difference) tested tomorrow and then try the starter (shouldn't be bad though, only 60k on the car). Otherwise I'll have to teardown and start over.
Brought my car to a garage that someone suggested to have a new timing belt put in. After I picked it up I was having problems ((I would try and start car but it would take a few trys to get it started)I called garage told them i thought the timing belt needed to be adjusted. They told me that was not the problem but i needed some censor. Well now my car wont start at all so i brought it to another garage who tells me that the timig belt was placed wrong. My question is..Now what? lol. Do I ask for my money back seeing that they didnt fix it? Do i have the same garage just fix it?(i didnt like them in the first place so really dont want to go back. If i do ask for them for money back and they give me a hard time,what can i do? or who do i call first?
View 4 RepliesI recently replaced timing belt and balance belt on my 2004 santa fe 2.4l and now the engine runs like crap and shakes badly. I went over all timing marks again and again and I am at a loss.
View 9 RepliesI just got my timing belt replaced by my mobile mechanic thats been doing it for years. I saw him do the work and get the timing right. When he was done the car turned on and ran perfect. After about a minute the car just shuts off. Now the car won't start at all. The car turns over but no start. The car ran perfectly before I had this job done.
View 9 RepliesMy car has 103000 miles on it and the timing belt was replaced several hundred miles ago. After the service I noticed it had a bit of a rough idle and a very slight sputtering noise, but still no check engine light. Was the timing belt put on wrong? The engine is non-interference, by the way.
View 1 RepliesI have a 2007 Accent with 119K on it.
I wanted to replace the water pump and I was wondering if this can be replaced without removing the timing belt or the lower timing belt cover?
In the process of rebuilding a 2007 Accent where the timing belt broke while idling.
Pulled the head, ran a "water test" on the valves (put spark plug in, pour water on the valves and see if it comes out the exhaust/intake side) and found that only 2 intake valves were belt. Also shut off all the lights in a pitch black room, shined a flashlight in the intake/exhaust and didn't see any light leak from any of the cylinders except the one with the 2 bent valves.
Does this make sense? I would assume since 2 cylinders are always TDC at once, at least 4 valves would be bent.
Lastly, before rebuild I'll be replacing the 2 intake valves, all the valve stem seals, intake manifold gasket, exhaust manifold gasket, head gasket, head bolts and valve cover gasket. Anything else I should replace on the head? Trying to keep costs down as much as possible.
To add: Pistons have no damage on them, there are no marks of the valves hitting the pistons. The timing belt was replaced after it broke and the engine still ran however it ran rough. Compression test was done on only cylinder 1&2, 1 had 60 PSI and 2 had 0 PSI. Compression test was also done by just rotating the crank with a socket since I already had some of the engine disassembled.
A mechanic has my car and replaced my timing belt and water pump....he said he had it running and then it sputtered out and wont start..i have never had a problem with this car. Just replacing before it went out.. he is missing something.
View 19 RepliesSo i just spent over $1700 at a vw service ctr having a sched 140k timing belt replaced with thermo and fuel filter. This was 3 days ago and when i picked it up it was slower to turn over then got worse and todsy it won't turn over at all even when jumped. It cranks and blows black smoke. Problem is i'm 160 miles from that svc center and it's sunday. There is a vw svc center 14 miles away but i feel like it needs to ho back to where the work was done because it ran great before taking it there.
View 5 RepliesOver the summer my car started having oil drips under it and it ended up being the valve cover gasket, so I replaced it. I noticed the half circle gasket next to the cam chain tensioner gasket was missing, so I just jammed it in there (didn't have tools/time to get cam chain gasket replaced). Before I changed these gaskets, oil would drip on the back side of the motor (farther from the front). Today I noticed drips of oil in front of the engine. Looking around there is oil in the timing belt area and is dripping down from there. It doesn't look like the VC gasket is leaking.
My question, what would cause oil to drip into/from the TB area?
engine = 1.8t ATW longitude
I am looking for a link or instructions on replacing the timing belt on a 2.8 30V. I attempted to search and mostly came up w/ the info relating to the turbo.
View 2 Replieshile since i've posted on the Tex. I've got a buddy who's looking at getting a 99 Passater, the car has 110k miles on it and it's the 1.8T. I've been reading a few posts out there about what to look for on these cars and of course maintenance records are at the top of that list. The other things I've been reading about is timing belt (I'm assuming this costs a few dollars to fix) probably should be done at 100k, and some front end suspension parts seem to go bad at an early interval. Anything else that we should look at on this car? It's an AutoTranny, I know the B4's had a horrible AT, I used to own one. Did they fix this pretty well in the B5's?
View 4 RepliesMy 2002 passat engine shakes when in idle or stop at light. When running on highway, it is smooth. what could it be?
View 3 RepliesOK, so yesterday I changed my timing belt and all new components. I started the car before completely reassembling everything (bumpers, etc.) and it ran a little rough at first, then smoothed out. But this only lasted a few seconds and then it died out. I thought not much about it and finished my reassembly. Afterwards, the car would crank and crank and finally start. However, it would never idle smooth and it stalled out only after 1-2 seconds.
I did some investigation, and found the plugs all had wet oil on them. Changed them out and tried to start car with same results. Looked again at the plugs and they weren't as oily, but on their way. I looked all over for a source of this problem and found a broken "pipe" on the passenger side of the engine. It is black and sits behind a heat shield, directly under a larger black pipe. They both run from front to back. I think the broken one might be a vacuum line of some type, although when I plug it, nothing happens.
My fear is that I botched the timing belt job and subsequently, bent a mess of valves. But, I'm holding out hope for another cause of this dilemma. What is the smaller black tube/pipe on the side of the intake? The broken piece comes off a 90 degree elbow pointing to the ground. I'm guessing it was broken before the timing belt job, but who knows? Perhaps I broke it when I moved the radiator into service mode. Could it be part of the turbo? I thought that might cause the rough idle and stalling.
Oh, one other thing. When I last tried to start the car, I got a flashing "STOP" on the instrument panel, followed by something about the oil. The oil words only appeared for a split second before going away. Not even long enough for me to read the whole sentence.
I was just curious and bored this morning. So I wanted to ask you all what mileage did you replace your timing belt at?
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