Passat - Volkswagen :: 2003 - Fixing Code P3081 / AC Not Working
Mar 24, 2011
I own a 2003 Volkswagen Passat Wagon 2.8L SFI DOHC 6cyl. I have a code P3081 I have replaced the temp sensor and the reserve coolant tank I am going for the thermostat next. I cannot get rid of this code. Also since the code started when my wife drives short distances and turns off the car it won't start again for about 15 min unless it is jumped started. To top it all off she came home yesterday and said she turned on the a/c and it worked for about 10 min and then made a lot of noise and quit working.
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P3081. What the hell is this code. I think it is a coolant temp. sensor issue.
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I have a 2004 Passat V6. Couple of weeks ago the check engine light went on. I went to AutoZone and checked. The code read P3081 (low engine temperature). I knew it might be caused by bad coolant temp sensor or T-Stat sensor. I also experienced that the engine would not start occasionally (prior and post the light on).
My question is that whether the low engine temperature can cause the difficulty to start the engine? How can I figure out which sensor is bad?
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I have a 1.8 T, 2003 vw passat with 186,000 miles on it. I've had this problem for 3 years and nobody can figure it out. If I start the car and begin driving immediately I have no brakes. However, if I let the car warm up for about 2-3 minutes (maybe less) everything is fine. I have replaced the brake booster.
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We have a 2003 VW Passat 1.8, front wheel drive. The check engine light is on. The code is p0778. When we start the car the gears light display lights up in red for all gears . We put the car in reverse, back out the garage and when we stop, we get a bump. And we shift to drive the car moves slowly with some hesitation.
Sometimes after the car runs for 10 minutes, then turned of for a few second then started up again, the problem goes away. Before this problem started, we would start the car in the mornings, and put in "R" , and only the reverse gear would light up. (which is the way it is suppose to work).
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My R is throwing a "P3081: Engine temperature: too low" code. The only mods I have done are a K&N Typhoon intake and the UM Tune. Any chance this code is happening because of the intake or is it something else? Car seems to be running fine - doesn't seem to be a loss of power or anything.
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So I start my car up a day ago and the check engine light turns on. So my dad and I plugged in our computer and it flips car code P3081. I did another search on google and a mk4 site popped up and said something about not reaching operating temp. So i guess my question is what would cause this to go off?
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When I approach a stop my a/c stops working and then begins working again when I drive. How can I fix this problem?
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I have a 99 Passat Brake lights are not working, but center strip is. Replaced bulbs & fuse Could it be switch? Is center strip on a different circuit? Check engine light came on recently and then went out.
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I recently purchased a used, high mileage 2004 Infiniti G35x (AWD) 145K miles from a reputable new car dealer here in my town. The car was impeccably maintained and clean inside and out. Just a week or two after the purchase my SES light came on revealing engine Code: P0430 (catalyst efficiency below threshold bank 2) pointing to a new catalytic converter in my future. Infiniti recommends premium unleaded for this vehicle. I found out my son filled her up with mid-grade unleaded. Is there any chance this could have triggered the SES light to come on? (Previous owner states he always used premium unleaded in the vehicle since ownership.) I also double checked the gas cap to make sure it was on tight. I find it extremely odd that the SES light would come on so shortly after the purchase. I mean what are the odds? Don't dealers run a diagnostic scan of their trade-ins to check history and for potential problems prior to selling their used cars? I test drove this car numerous times without any indication of a problem and right on the heels of the purchase it passed state emissions... now just a few days later, the SES light comes on. Why wouldn't emissions pick that up? I have reset the SES light (code) and filled her up with premium unleaded. Now it's a waiting game to see if the light comes on again. If the light reappears, I plan on taking it back to the dealer to work out some kind of "reasonable solution" to repair costs. I'll find out just how willing he is to stand behind his cars. I realize that this is a high mileage car, and I hardly expect perfection, but I didn't see this coming. What to do... what to do... By the way, I checked all the fluid levels ... no discoloration in the oil (fresh, golden brown)... no discoloration in the coolant... transmission fluid, good... all other levels are good. Car runs fine, no rough idle in cold...
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2006 Subaru Forester X 2.5L AT non-turbo
I changed the oil and oil filter; replaced the air filter (Fram), and replaced the alternator and a/c belts. I also got a full tank of gas at Sam's Club, I was nearly empty. I've gotten gas plenty of times there, before.
Next day, the CEL comes on. It's a P0304 code. (Cruise control light is flashing, too.) Engine stumbles and runs rough when cold; idles fine when warm, runs OK, but not the same, when warm. CEL is steady, which is "not bad" but I can make it flash if I hit the accelerator while the engine is cold. Resetting the computer by disconnecting the hot battery terminal didn't work; CEL came on again two days later and symptoms remained.
I buy some MAF cleaner (CRC) and use it; MAF was pretty dirty on the upstream side, actually.
I'm going to change the plugs and wires (they need it, anyway) and I've ordered a new ignition coil, which I'll also switch out.
I've also ordered the gasket for the throttle body, which I'll take apart and clean once that comes in. Last step is to order replacement O2 sensors.
I'm 99% certain there's nothing wrong with the engine, in terms of rings, valves, pistons, etc. I think I'm covering all the bases in addressing this myself. I'm on a limited budget so I'm doing all the labor myself and ordering non-OEM parts on-line, after researching to make sure the parts have a good reputations, fit, etc. (Yes, that's all a big FU to Subaru service for being over-priced but besides being relatively poor I also enjoy doing this stuff.)
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I have been getting a code 18 which is a loss of tach signal. I have checked the distributor and the module and they are both good. Where do I start next?
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is my Toyota camry going to stall cause it has po401 code and I think it has an muffler or exaust leak can the cause po401 code.
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My Touareg (2007) was running great until this morning when the MIL (malfunction indicator lamp) came on. Checked with a mechanic who got a reading of PO306 which he explained was the #6 cylinder problem. All VW dealers are closed for service by now but I must drive back to work in St Louis tomorrow? Is it OK for me to drive with that MIL on?
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My 2002 camry 4cyl auto, jap built, with near 190k miles, check engine light just came on, P1135, has not replace any sensor since I own at 125k, 7 years ago, did noticed last 3 to 6 months, mileage drop to 25 or 26mpg average, used to be around 30+mpg, I thought it was change season for gasoline mix.
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I have a 2001 VW Passat with only 75K miles. The manual seat adjustment started working sluggishly, so I took to my mechanic. I was told that the mounting is very thin sheet metal and cracked. They welded it up and it is somewhat better, but not nearly as good as new. Can't imagine that my problem is unique. Still a safety issue here - should VW have a recall?
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I own a 2005 Volkswagon Passat, and took it to my mechanic yesterday to get a sticker and my new summer tires put on. When I picked up the car, the passenger side speaker is no longer working. About a month ago I took my car to a specialist to have an aftermarket radio put in for me that I got for my birthday so I can listen to my iPod. Why my passenger side speaker is not working anymore? Does it have anything to do with what my mechanic might have messed up when putting the new tires on?
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I'm using an innova 3100/abs tester and that's the code it throws back. The company is zero support, claiming it is an internal Dodge code that they have no info for.
The code is : 50FE
Is that any use to me, or did I buy this tester for nothing..?
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Check engine light just came on. I scanned the car and the code PO704 came up.
"Clutch switch input circuit malfunction."
If I replace my clutch switch, will this solve the problem? I got the part number #1jo 927 189f i just want to make sure its that switch that's bad.
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I'm owner of a VW GTI 2011 Stage 2 APR
Chip Stage 2, APR Intake
Today I got a Check Engine light, I plugged my scanner and read: P2404/009220 EVAP Leak Detection Pump Sense Circuit: Implausible Signal. But I realize that I have 2 tube near the motor that doesn't have anything on it.
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I picked up a 2002 Prius with 164k, still on original battery. It giving code P3030 which evidently relates to a high voltage line snapped on the bus bar.
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