Passat - Volkswagen :: 2002 - Only Cold Air Blowing When It Is Supposed To Be Heat


Feb 13, 2012

I have a 2002 Passat that is only blowing cold air when it is supposed to be heat. I have checked the following items:

1. Both heater hoses are hot at the heater core which would indicate that the core is not restricted.
2. Air has been bled at the heater core and the antifreeze is at the correct level.
3. Car thermostat is operating correctly and maintains a steady 190 to 195 degrees.
4. When temperature control lever is moved from "cold" to "hot" the air noise definitely changes like a damper is moving but there is no change in air temperature. This is a manual control with cables (not digital read-out).

From what I have read so far I am convinced that there is a problem with the blend door but referring you back to #4 (air noise change) I believe that the cable is moving the damper. Can the blend door be accessed on this car without removing the center console? Can it be accessed through the glove box area?

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A few weeks ago my car started overheating and blowing cold air while I was on the highway. I took it to my mechanic and he found that the radiator was leaking. Two weeks later the car was overheating and the heater was blowing cold air when I was on the highway. I had it towed to the same mechanic and the car wouldn't overheat nor would it blow cold air. He drove it all around and on the highway but couldn't get the problems I was having to occur. Now I have intermittent heat. Sometimes I will start the car and it will take 20+ minutes for the heat to blow warm air. Other times the heat works fine for a while and then starts blowing cold air. Usually when it starts blowing cold air I begin to smell a sweet odor, possibly coolant. It hasn't overheated again, but I have stayed off the highway.

I just had the thermostat changed, and the upper radiator hose warms up quickly. When the heater is blowing cold air, one or both of the hoses connecting to the heater core do not warm up. Sometimes it's both hoses, other times the hose going in is hot but the other hose is cool. My mechanic seems to think that the head gasket is leaking air into the system, and that the air is preventing the coolant/water from being properly transported throughout the car. He did a pressure test to see if it was the head gasket when I brought the car in but it wasn't conclusive. Does it sound like a head gasket leak, or could it be a blocked heater core, or a weak water pump? So far I haven't noticed any coolant leaks, but I could be missing something.

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Golf - Volkswagen :: 2002 - Overheating With Cold Air?

I am driving a 2002 VW Golf GL and my temperature light is flashing on my dashboard.

It was on for about 2 weeks before the temp gauge actually started rising.I then took it to "my" mechanic and they said it was a faulty temp gauge that wasn't opening and closing correctly. Fine. Done and Done. Sensor and gauge a few hundred bucks. Done. Right? Wrong!

Not more than 2 weeks later the light came on again with no temp rising.Just yesterday I was driving and the temp started rising. I quickly flipped on the heat to alleviate some of the hot air in the engine and cold air blew out of the vents. I double checked to make sure the A/C was not on and still cold air. Plus, the temp kept rising.

I did a few more tests, stopping, starting and driving quickly and still no change in the air temperature blowing from my vents, HOWEVER, the faster I drove the faster the temp gauge would return to normal. It was when I was idling at a red-light or stuck on traffic that the temp rises and when I'm cruising the temp goes down. It appears that this is the only factor in my temp remaining at normal.

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Was driving my truck I have a 97 f150 4x4 4.6L, btw. The heater started blowing cold air and I looked at the temp gauge but it was showing lower than it normally does and then, after a couple of miles or so I looked at the temp gauge again. By this time I was in my driveway. And it was overheating it might have been that way before I looked at the temp gauge again. But any way I opened the hood didn't see any leaks, all my hoses were hot except the top heater hose. Also checked the oil it was full and coolant was too, what this could be? Sounds like a t-stat to me? But could be worse. Also forgot to mention that the oil had no signs of water in there nor the expansion tank cap !

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I noticed about a week ago (on a cool morning) that my Climatronic system would not blow heat. I played around with it briefly by adjusting the temp settings and how the blower was working.

If I set the temp to High heat would blow out for like a minute but anything else would just blow cold air.

If I set the temp to High and turn Econ on I would get hot Air.

No other settings would generate heat. I VAG Commed my car and there were not fault codes!!!

I took my car to my normal indie shop and they also were puzzled by this. They re-ran a vag com and nothing for them either. The heater core was flushed recently with the resting of my coolant system when my TB was done.

There is no sign of leakage for the heater core but I'm super puzzled to what the problem may be.

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Volkswagen - Cabrio :: 2002 Won't Start Until Gauge Is Completely At Cold Line

My 2002 Volkswagen Cabrio won't start when it is hot, only when it is cold. Several times in the last few months, similar experiences such as the following has occurred. Yesterday, I drove approximately 15 miles, ran into a store for about 10 minutes and went back to the car and it started. Then drove about 10 miles and shopped for groceries for about 45 minutes, returned to car and it started. Drove about 10 more miles and went into a store for about 30 minutes...car wouldn't start. The engine does turn over. As the temperature gauge descends each line, I try to start the car and it will not start again until the gauge is completely at the cold line. My husband has replaced the battery, both temperature sensors, changed the fuel filter, changed the ignition coil and the starter in March.

One other time it gives me problems which is different than the above scenario is I have driven the car just one or two miles and had it off for only two minutes to five or ten minutes and could not start it for an hour or so.

An OBD scanner at an auto parts store gives several code readings, some of which say it is the fuel pump primary circuit, cylinder 1,2,3 & 4 injector circuit low, secondary air injection system relay A control circuit, evaporator emission system purge control valve circuit is shorted and, finally, evaporator emission system leak detection pump control circuit low. I have had readings done before by an OBD scanner and the problem didn't have anything to do with what the scanner said so I don't have much trust in those readings.

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