Passat - Volkswagen :: 2002 - No Ignition / Will Not Start
Sep 15, 2015
2002 vw Passat GLX 4motion... Car has been driving fine with no issues. Then out of the blue it just won't start back up. Battery is 6 months old. And wouldn't start with a jump. I think it is a completely different issue. The power windows stopped working but other features do work like stereo power seats interior lights...Main problem is no lights on dash whatsoever. But when key turns from accessories position to starting position nothing happens. No clicking, no resistance between positions it is as if the ignition is just missing..?
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2002 VW Cabrio @80K miles no major repairs 1 1/2 years ago the car died while in motion - as if the ignition switch was turned off. While "dead in the water" I tried several things, cleaning battery cables (although horn & lights were strong), letting it cool, & jumper cables to no avail. It was towed to a local garage (who have been pretty good in the past) & the starter was replaced (they were puzzeled too, but that worked!!??). Fine for many months. Then another cutoff while in motion (30-40 mph). This time it started about 15 minutes later on its own. I drove it home & turned it off. When I went to move it into the garage it wouldn't start. After pushing it into the garage once again, cables were checked, the battery charged (again horn & lights were strong, but what the heck), checked all fuses, & looked for anything possibly suspicious. No luck.
In desperation I replaced the starter again (I know, it was probably just superstition at this point) & while at it cleaned every wiring connection I could find under the hood. It worked. The car started and ran fine, but I took it back to the original shop to see if they could find anything else - to avoid mid roadway flame outs! Understandably they were skeptical of finding the problem while it was still working. They ran it, drove, checked it, for several days & it did just fine. When I went to retrieve it wouldn't start!! Now they had it while in cardiac arrest, but before anything was diagnosed it came back to life on its own. It has been running fine for many months more.
It did it again today!! This time the 15 minute wait worked & it is back in our garage and as you can imagine my wife is not crazy about driving it again. Just some side notes: - When dead, all of the electrical system is out EXCEPT the ignition circuit - not even a click from the solinoid. - Previous to these "attacks" my wife has noticed some odd electrical occurences a day or two before, but not enough to disable the car. (dash lights flickering, acceleration stumble on takeoff, the radio going to safe mode when the power was never disconnected) - The only vague possible electrical anomoly is the installation of a Sirius radio receiver under the dash to the cigarette lighter. I haven't clue at this point.
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I have a 2002 Passat GLS and when I tried to start my car this morning, it would not start. When I turn on the ignition, the car gives off a loud clicking sound. The interior and exterior light works, the panel light works, and the radio works as well. What might be the problem?
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My 2.0L Jetta had an intermittent misfire, only at idle. I took it in to the shop, and they fixed a vacuum leak and replaced the plugs. The car drove home fine, but the next morning it was misfiring at all speeds. When it got back to the shop, they said that the coil pack was bad. I wonder if they might have done something to cause the pack to fail, since it seemed to be working fine before I took it in. Their explanation was that the coil had become accustomed to sparking at an adjusted (more powerful) setting to account for the vacuum leak, and when it tried to go back to the factory setting, it quit working. Also, all of the stress from running at a higher output wore it out.
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My daughter drives a 2005 Passat station wagon, has a small child and one on the way. She has had intermittent problems with the car just not wanting to crank. After sitting 15-20 minutes it will crank. But the wait and not knowing if it will crank is taxing me and her. Especially since she has another one on the way. She has taken it to a reputable mechanic. They kept it for 3 days, cranking it on and off without a problem, and told her they couldn't find anything.
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A couple weeks ago I bought a 2001 VW Jetta with 176,000 miles on it. The car runs well, but for the past four days this has been happening:
Every time I start the car, after it's been off for a couple hours, neither the gas nor the brake pedal work. I can push them down, and I hear the car trying to respond but it doesn't do anything (well, it does move a little, as though it's in neutral). Then, when I turn the car off and then turn it immediately back on, both pedals are back to normal and work perfectly fine again. It's happened every time I start the car for the past few days.
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I have a vw passat '02 w/100k miles the coolant light came on back in early dec. and I purchased a coolant recommended to me -Zerex dex cool and added very little. It was running fine until Monday morning when it was -5. I added some more and the engine light came on after driving for 3 minutes. I did notice that there was 'froth' inside on the cap when I opened the coolant reservoir. Is the engine light on because of the coolant or it it something else?
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I've got a 2002 Jetta TDI that's been playing stump the mechanic for the past two weeks. I've had about $800 worth of work (most of which had error codes and were necessary), but given that the next suggestion is to replace the fuel pump at a cost of ~$2k, I figured it was time to get some additional opinions.
When the car is completely cold, the engine typically turns over a few times before starting up. Sometimes a few turns into seven or eight, but I've never had it not start. The problem comes when I've driven it somewhere (like to the grocery store, yoga class, or to get gas, to name a few) and try to restart it after my task is done. The warmer the engine, the lower the chance it will start. In it's most extreme, the car will not start at all, and I have had it stall out on me at stoplights if I do manage to get it started.
The car has had a history of intermittent hard starts in the four years I've had it, but nothing at all like this.
In the past two weeks, my mechanic has replaced the coolant temperature sensor, thermostat and seal ring, serpentine belt tensioner and serpentine belt, power supply relay, fuel pressure regulator and seal rings and the crank sensor. They've also been able to see that something is off about the fuel pump since they can see air bubbles in the fuel line, but thought I could push the car for a while without having to replace the pump.
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My VW Passat 2002 produces lots of white smoke when stop at light or parked and restart. My engine light stays on after spending over $200.00 trying to get fixed.
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In the first instance of this problem, my brake pedal was stuck to the floor. By pumping it a few times, it gradually released and rose to the proper level. Brakes then seemed to work fine for a couple of weeks, until I reversed out of a parking space, but could not brake the car when I shifted into drive. I pushed the brake pedal to the floor, but could not stop until I ran over two large boulders that, stopped the car short of a big tree.
My mechanic doesn't know exactly what went wrong, but is replacing the brake cylinder. I fervently hope that fixes the problem! What could it be?
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I have a 2002 Passat that is only blowing cold air when it is supposed to be heat. I have checked the following items:
1. Both heater hoses are hot at the heater core which would indicate that the core is not restricted.
2. Air has been bled at the heater core and the antifreeze is at the correct level.
3. Car thermostat is operating correctly and maintains a steady 190 to 195 degrees.
4. When temperature control lever is moved from "cold" to "hot" the air noise definitely changes like a damper is moving but there is no change in air temperature. This is a manual control with cables (not digital read-out).
From what I have read so far I am convinced that there is a problem with the blend door but referring you back to #4 (air noise change) I believe that the cable is moving the damper. Can the blend door be accessed on this car without removing the center console? Can it be accessed through the glove box area?
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2002 Golf TDI . I am having a no start problem. I get all of the dash lights, the battery is fine, and there is just nothing when the key is turned. Our 2002 Golf TDI, now, of course, almost 15 years old. The dealership detects nothing through a computer read, and I'm down to the starter, relay and neutral switch as possibilities. The battery is just 3 years old, and we are at just 68K.
Can a neutral switch be tested for proper operation? Can the electrical system by tested for a starter motor or relay fault? The dealership maintains I need to await failure before they can do anything. We've had previous VW electrical problems w/this car - several dead batteries, complete on-board computer failure after having the car several months, way back when, and that part has been fine since then. I sold my last VW, a 1974 Karmann-Ghia Coupe, a few years ago, and these under-the-hood diesel setups are beyond me.
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The rear spark plug boot, the kind that goes down into the center of the engine, pops up about a quarter inch every so often. I have switched the boots and cleaned the walls of the plug area and it pops up on the rear cylinder only. This is a 2002 Passat 4 cylinder Turbo with 163,000 miles on it.
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My 2002 Volkswagen Cabrio won't start when it is hot, only when it is cold. Several times in the last few months, similar experiences such as the following has occurred. Yesterday, I drove approximately 15 miles, ran into a store for about 10 minutes and went back to the car and it started. Then drove about 10 miles and shopped for groceries for about 45 minutes, returned to car and it started. Drove about 10 more miles and went into a store for about 30 minutes...car wouldn't start. The engine does turn over. As the temperature gauge descends each line, I try to start the car and it will not start again until the gauge is completely at the cold line. My husband has replaced the battery, both temperature sensors, changed the fuel filter, changed the ignition coil and the starter in March.
One other time it gives me problems which is different than the above scenario is I have driven the car just one or two miles and had it off for only two minutes to five or ten minutes and could not start it for an hour or so.
An OBD scanner at an auto parts store gives several code readings, some of which say it is the fuel pump primary circuit, cylinder 1,2,3 & 4 injector circuit low, secondary air injection system relay A control circuit, evaporator emission system purge control valve circuit is shorted and, finally, evaporator emission system leak detection pump control circuit low. I have had readings done before by an OBD scanner and the problem didn't have anything to do with what the scanner said so I don't have much trust in those readings.
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I know that VW's are known for funky problems. Sometimes when it has recently rained heavily, the brakes will make a crunching sound when I press the pedal down, and there is also increased pressure, as if there is water stuck somewhere. It will drive fine for a few minutes and then will start shuddering, spewing exhaust, and nearly stalling. The engine light will often flash, and for this reason I brought it into my mechanic who is a VW specialist. It was first diagnosed as a faulty engine coil, and that was replaced. The problem came back repeatedly and he said I would have to wait until it "got worse" for him to figure it out. I've been riding it out since then, and once I get to my destination and the car sits for a little bit (usually 4+ hours), it runs fine again. The rainy season has started so I'm a little worried about this happening on a regular basis. This has never happened in dry weather.
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I have a Saturn Ion 2, 05. I will intermittently not start. I put the key in the ignition, power comes on, turn the key, it clicks a couple of times and then everything turns off. The key is then locked in the ignition. It is a new key. My old key looked chewed up. The only way to get the care to release my key is to open the hood and wait a few minutes and then shut the hood. Power will come back on and it will release my key. I used to be able to start it after that but now it seems like it is becoming more and more difficult to start it. I have read about a loose fuse box under the hood, replacing battery, replacing ignition switch and resetting passcode. Im not sure where to start first. I do not have the extended warranty and am on a tight budget.
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My son has a 1999 VW Passat Wagon with a 1.8 turbo 230,000 miles. He came home from work, parked his car and the next morning for school it did not start. He inserted the key and turned it and the engine would not crank. All dash lights worked and such. He did notice the power window were not working and the interior lights either. He jump the car and worked fine, until he shut it off, and again needed a jump to start.
I looked at it, battery and alternator tested fine, battery is only a year old. the car now randomly will start on it own or not, even with a jump. I had no codes pop up on the computer scan. I am hearing things like climate control module and another fuel module in trunk and water issues. I was told to check connect at starter and change iginition switch. Have not done the ignition switch yet will need to get car up on block for starter as my son has lowered the car quite a bit. I had the computer codes checked by a VW tech and he seems stumped too.
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I have a 2002 Chevy Impalah 100k miles that frequently won't start. When I put the key in the ignition, I get lights, radio, and all electrical signs. But no sound from the engine. No matter how many times I try to turn the ignition, I get nothing.
But then when I stop trying and then come back to the car 5 to 10 minutes later, the car will start with no problem. This seems to happen randomly--sometimes first thing in the morning, sometimes after being parked for an hour. I can go for days with no problems and then it will start happening (randomly) again.
I just brought the car back from a dealership--they couldn't reproduce the problem and can't find anything wrong with the car. What systems or parts might be malfunctioning?
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One night i get into my car its a 2002 mk4 golf 2.0 engine and i turn my key to start it and i turn the key all the way and i am getting no sound at all no clicking or even the engine trying to start. the key just turns all the way and thats it my stereo turns on and my interior lights turn on but my headlights dont turn on and my cluster gauges needles dont move at all . its like my ignition is not sending any signal to the engine or my cluster gauges. the cluster lights work but that it. when i turn the key to start i am getting nothing . What this could be?
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My son has a 2002 Explorer 4WD EB that needed new valve and intake manifold gaskets. I pulled it apart this weekend (battery disconnected) and replaced (don't get me started on the passenger valve cover with that *@&$^ EGR valve in the way). He's also had issues with the key being removable from the ignition when the vehicle is still running (worn key and/or cylinder most likely). So when I put his key in to test my gasket job, it won't go in all the way. After much trial and effort, I call a mobile locksmith who has to drill out the old cylinder and rekey/replace it (keyed to use the same, single old key we have).
Now, the cylinder turns happily with the old key. In the "Run" position, all the dash lights come on as they should, but turning then to "Start", caused a loud single click, then the dash goes out, and the engine never even tries to start. Then, nothing electrical in the car works unless I disconnect the battery for about 10 mins, then reconnect. Upon trying to start, the same thing happens (good dash lights at "Run", then single loud click from the engine compartment, then nothing. It seems maybe the PAT has lost its memory of the old key?
I watched and assisted the locksmith put the cylinder and PATS antenna back together, so I know connections/placement of that is good. At this point, I'm about to lose all the money I saved on the gasket job to the freakin' ignition issue.
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I have a volkswagen TDi 1.9 automatic which is using coolant more on short runs than on motorway and produces white smoke/steam on start up even when not cold which disappears after a few seconds. Other symptom is doesn't accelerate though goes OK when once up to speed. Have has cylinder head checked and new gasket so that is not the culprit and also new heat exchanger. There is also a gurgling noise which seems to be coming from the dash board though I am not sure if these things are related. I have read that the automatic has a water cooled EGR, could this be it??
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