Passat - Volkswagen :: 1997 - Feels Like Downshifting Even When Not Accelerating?
Aug 26, 2014
When I'm driving, steady mph, my car feels as if I've just downshifted, or that my foot slipped off the gas pedal. When this happens I've noticed that the tachometer drops down from say 20 - 30 to 10 or less! But just momentarily. It happens to a warm or cold engine. It's going to give me a whiplash! I've brought it to my VW dealer. They put it on the computer, and no problem comes up! No lights on my dashboard are on either. This problem is really annoying.
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Air blowing noise that sounds like a disconnected turbo or hose. Loss of power accelerating and downshifting.
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I have a 1999 Passat 1.8t manual transmission... My car shakes like it's going to stall and sometimes actually stalls when I come near to a complete stop. The car drives really bad... it jerks when downshifting and on accelerating... The performance of the car is crap. also When i put the car into neutral and coast to a stop, the revs will bounce up and down. I posted a couple months ago about this problem and I was told to clean the throttle body. I then cleaned my throttle body and replaced the gasket. This problem went away for about 5 days and then was back again. This problem is the worse when I go to school, which is when it's about 45 degrees outside.
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2009 Hyundai Sonata automatic: When downshifting from 4th to 3rd it feels like I hit a bump, or like I just hit the brakes hard for a second.
What could it be? It's most noticeable when the car is cold. I have 82k miles on it, so it's still in the "power train warranty".
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My car stared to make this horrible screaming noise like a bad belt when I was on the freeway. When I would accelerate the slightest it would go away. Take my foot off of the accelerator, the noise would start again. I pulled over then the check engine light came on. I had it towed home.
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I have a 2010 VW GT with the 6 speed manuaI. The shift action feels longer and sloppier than the action was on the five speed from my much missed 2002 VW Passat wagon (only option the v6 engine). I'm considering a short throw shifter and would like to understand the pros and cons, and which shifter would be the best one for my car.
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I have a 2003 VW Eurovan that had it's transmission rebuilt in 2011. In 2012, we were going up a steep mountain road approx. 25 mph and the van downshifted into first gear. We tried everything from speeding up to pulling over and letting it cool down to turning the engine off and on. It would only upshift into the correct gear when we reached the crest of the hill and started going downhill. As I live in San Diego, there are no hills high enough to reproduce this with city driving and so it never happened again until we went back to the same place this year and at almost the exact same spot on the road. We took a trip later in the year to Oregon where we encountered many uphill grades and each time we hit a steep part and going around 20-30 mph, the van would downshift again either into first or second gear, and each time upshifting when we started going downhill.
At the end of this last trip, a new whining noise appeared and is present everyday we drive and gets louder and higher pitched the faster we go. We have taken the van numerous times to the dealership who says there are no engine codes to suggest a problem and their last assessment was the downshifting may be an overheating problem and the whining noise was definitely from the transmission indicating a bearing problem and they suggested getting the transmission rebuilt again. The transmission shop states that the transmission is fine by the fact that the fluid is in good shape, the transmission is basically "dumb" and only does what the computer tells it to and therefore it is a computer problem and the whining noise, although new, is just a normal noise that all transmissions make. Each place points me in the direction of the other but neither has solved my problem.
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I have a 2002 VW Eurovan, 2.8L V6 Winnebago Vista 21B, 130k miles, my check engine light is on but having a hard time trying to figure out what's causing it and what direction to head without spending a fortune. It started while traveling across country two years ago, several days into the trip, after driving several hours at freeway speeds on a cool rainy day, I stopped for gas and when I turned it back on it sputtered and coughed and ran REALLY rough, I slowly moved the vehicle out of the way, about 50 ft, turned it off and when I turned it back on it was fine, except the check engine light came on. I took it into VW and they ran the test... the codes were: P0118 Coolant Temperature Sensor 1 3 Cylinder Misfires P0305, P0300, P0303 P1151 Bank 1, mixture adaptation, range 1, Lean limit not reached, static
They said it wasn't going to destroy the vehicle, to continue on my trip and I'd need to do some sleuthing to find the culprit. The light came on and off throughout the trip but didn't have the sputtering again ( although I didn't push it as hard when driving it either, kept it around 65 - 70).Got back to Montana and a local shop replaced the ignition coil. That didn't fix the check engine light, which is on continuously now (that's been 2 years with mild use of about 8k miles).
Until now, it hasn't sputtered again so I didn't really worry about it, but it happened in Oregon last week when it was again cool and rainy, I'd been driving hwy speeds for a few hours, I stopped for gas and when I restarted it sputtered, coughed and rumbled like it did 2 years ago. I turned it off for 30 secs, restarted and it was fine.In talking this over with a variety of folk, we're thinking the issue could be a fuel filter, fuel pump, coolant sensor or catalytic converter sensor... I have a fuel pressure test scheduled in a couple of weeks.
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I have a 07 Camry LE. I recently replaced the belt tensioner and belt. A couple, maybe three weeks later its having symptoms of hesitation when accelerating and when at a stop. The rpm's are stable but seem to dip below its operating specification, causing the car to come to a wobble felt just like when you're in too low a gear when driving a standard vehicle. I suspect it may be air related but that's just a guess. I have not looked under the hood yet since its dark out and would like to get some feedback on this problem. Another probable cause I suspect is the fuel filter. The car has 113,000 miles and i doubt its ever been changed (I am the second owner).
Before I changed the tensioner I could be a stop and then suddenly press the accelerator to avoid oncoming traffic. The car will stall and die sometimes. It's has only done this to me on two occasions. Both at the same location. Rapid acceleration at this point was on an incline. If it matters.
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When you press on the accelerator the car feels very sluggish it only has 61,000 miles
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Recently my car has been doing some weird things. After driving it for about an hour, I get a sound from the engine compartment that sounds like a vacuum cleaner. It's fairly loud, but it's mostly just noticeable from the outside. The car continues to run, but if I turn it off, it doesn't restart (does not even crank). Last night I was driving at about 55 MPH and all the electronics went off and then came back on. In other words, the radio restarted and all the lights turned off and back on. The headlights turned off, but they did not come back on no matter what.
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Just have a few things wrong with my Passat 1.9 tdi... When I am accelerating sometimes the car would die, almost as if the turbo has just cut out and the car struggles to pull along around 40mph, once i pull over, turn the engine off and start up again its fine!... It could go fine for a week then do it 5 days in a row it just seems a bit temperamental and happens at the worst of times!
Sometimes half way up a hill and the car travels up around an embarrassing 20/30mph until i get on a flat again, other times would be pulling away from lights and id be quick one minute then its gone!... just seems to be when i need a bit more power, it gives me the opposite! [URL] ....
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97 passat vr6. I only get warm air from the vents when I'm accelerating. As soon as I come to a stop it starts blowing cold air. Does this mean there is air in the system? If so how do I bleed it out?
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I have a 2016 Touareg Lux model with just 600 miles. On multiple occasions, when accelerating out of a slow rolling stop, the car bogs down and almost dies.....until I let off the pedal and gradually ease back on it. I was nearly rear ended recently as a result of the acceleration hesitation. It's almost as if the engine shuts down and is starved of fuel.
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I'm having a bit of an issue with my 97 ranger 4.0 auto 2wd. I have an vibration which from a stop up about 10 mph feels like wheel hop not bad but you can definitely feel it it and over 50 mph the whole truck starts to shake again not bad but you know its there. the truck sat last summer it was my dd till a bought a new car and now vw is buying it back ill be driving the ranger in the mean time. I have been trying figure it out for a few months but no luck i have put new tires , front rotors and rear drums , drive shaft support bearing ( 2 pc shaft) new u-joints and a used boneyard shaft with new u-joints as well, checked the tail shaft bushing which had about .008" of play.
Pulled the drums Off today and checked the axle bearing for play only .004" of play pulled the diff cover and checked for carrier play as well as pinion play but can't find anything. I'm at a loss here and looking for other things to check ... Don't know if its possible that something in the transmission is loose it was rebuilt about 75k miles ago I was going to stop and talk to the trans shop to see what he thought (its a 5r55e ) ....
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OK, after some bearing issues I replaced the crankshaft with a reman. The engine is now in, but it is not turning over like I think it should. It just feels too tight, and cranks slow. It cranks smooth, nothing hitting. It is hard to turn with a wrench on the front bolt. I am wondering if I messed up on the torque on the rod bearings.
I torqued them according to the book. First to 29 to 33 ft lbs, then rotated an additional 90 to 120 degrees. I went with the lower of the numbers, 29 foot pounds then an additional 90 degrees. The mains I tightened to 30 ft. lbs. then an additional 90 degrees.
Are these the correct specs? I did smear a little grease on the main journals before installing, but did not do this for the rods as the book says. Is this maybe something to do with my issue?
I did not measure with plastiguage to see, I didn't realize I was out of the stuff and didn't want to drive 50 miles away to get some! I am also wondering if heating up the bearings on one rod journal might have warped the rod and is binding not allowing it to turn. I did notice when I put it back together it turned a little hard, but figured it would be ok once it started.
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My car is downshfting kinda hard from 2nd to 1st I guess, it's just before I stop. What's causing this? It's a 2002 V6 4Motion.
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I've just had my 2006 B6 fixed last monday....something with throttle body , fuel pressure sensor and transmission "flashed" since it was downshifting rough from 5th to 4th. Today while cruising on the highway at first "open gas cap" showed up so i pulled over turned engine off then back on, light was gone, then on may way from work engine light came ON out of nowhere so i have another appointment to have them look at it this coming sat.
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I was driving to work this morning on the highway and noticed my car was running at 3500 RPMs while I'm going 65... kind of odd, right? drop it into tiptronic, shows fourth, I shift up to 5th, and drop it back into "drive." A few seconds later I laid off the accelerator as the road started going downhill, and the car downshifted to 4th while I'm going 65... Back to tiptronic, shift up to 5th again, then shift back over to Drive.
I then accelerated a little as the road started going up hill, and the car downshifted AGAIN for no reason while I'm doing 70!!!! I wasn't laying on it at all either, very grandpa-like driving.... I've never driven an automatic car before, so maybe this is normal - but it doesn't seem normal. Once I got off the highway the car drove fine, but i dunno whats up. It's a v6 with 107k on it....
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I have A 97 F-150 4X4 with rear drums. I noticed the brakes felt like they weren't releasing right away after i let of the brake pedal. i took drums off and noticed on the left rear the front shoe moved normal but the rear shoe didn't move at all. on the right side front shoe moves normal rear shoe very very slow, and i could see rear shoe was worn way more than front. So I replaced on both rear the shoes, all the hardware, springs, wheel cylinders and brake line from cylinders to the proportioning valve.bleed the brakes, and adjusted the drag on the drums. Now i drive it, test it out, feels like the same issue is going on. feels like im driving with the brake on, and right rear gets really hot. Did i miss something? not do something right?
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I have a 2000 f150 lariat. Mo problem started about 2 weeks ago. Around town its fine but when I go over 50 mph it feels like I'm driving down the rumble strips on the highway and after a couple miles it just smooths out and its fine! Yesterday I went on the interstate and it did the same but this time I ran up to 85 and the vibration stopped.
I had another motor put in about 2 months ago, #4, and he changed my rear u joint as well. I replaced the rear passenger side wheel bearing a couple months ago but there seemed like a little play in the axle still but not bad. I've been to the dealer and a few other mechanics but it doesn't do it all the time and they couldn't find what is wrong.
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