Overheating :: Sprinter Overheats And RPM Slows When Going Uphill
Aug 10, 2011
I have a 05 Sprinter 6 cyl gas HD that overheats a little at highway speeds over 60mph and then the rpm is limited so the van slows down to the 50 mph range even if I floor the gas peddle, I usually pull over turn off the engine and let it cool down for an hour and resume the trip. It only does that when going up the mountains while the van is loaded or on extremely long trips. Ive taken it to two mechanics both could not reproduce the problem. It has 250k...
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I just received this car as a freebie but it has come with an issue or two. The most pressing is a cooling issue. They gave it to me with the words, "The radiator leaks". Upon some testing this doesn't seem to be the whole picture.
1) If I fill the radiator up, leave the car parked over night, the next morning the radiator is still full. so I assume it is leaking from steam venting or from something else.
2) The car overheats very fast when the AC is on and the vehicle is stopped. Within about 10 minutes it went through every drop in the radiator.
3) When driving with the AC fan on medium speed, it can go a solid 30-45 minutes with no issue.
4) If I turn the AC fan on to high it takes a matter of minutes for it to begin to over heat.
A friend mentioned something about a weeper valve? I know very little about cars. So if there was any insight as to what it may be that would be excellent.
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My car leaks water/coolant when off, the other day it was overheating but it had plenty of water in it, it seems to struggle when going up hill, also when i use blinkers sometimes it makes a loud buzzing noise and wont work, happens sporadically...
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Problems overheating. Have replaced thermostat and the housing for it...fan clutch and water pump. Its still overheating especially going uphill when RPM's are higher. How can I check to see if there is a radiator blockage?
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I have a 2006 F550 mini bus, that I just had the head studs done, egr delete and air intake changed. Last night we took it out for a run to test it since we just installed a new fan clutch. We can here the fan kicking on and off. The problem is, we drove it say 60 miles, up and down a mountain, had no issues. We got out and ate for about an hour, and then drove it back the same way. This time on a slight upgrade my check gauges came on, and I seen the temp rising. I let off the fuel, and it dropped back down. So the rest of the way home I was easy on the fuel and made it back with out heating up again.
Today, we took it for a ride and at idle before we left the ECT was 172, and EOT 170, as we drove I watched the temps. Climbing up a fairly steep mountain, we were doing about 65mph, for about a 5 mile climb. During the climb my ECT was 201 and EOT 226, at the hottest point it was ECT 204 and the EOT was 226.
I am assuming it could be a possible water pump and or oil cooler. Reason I am thinking the water pump, is because after it over heated, I noticed if I let off the fuel quick after running I would hear a noise like a puffing sound. It was the coolant shooting out of the degas bottle. It did this several times when letting off the fuel quick, which I think was the pump was allowing the coolant to be pushed back in from the heat.
I already ordered a new pump, which if bad could also cause the oil not to cool as the pump is not pushing enough coolant? (Also I only lose coolant if it gets to hot)...
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I have a 2001 excursion 7.3 4x4 with the 6.0L trans cooler. It is over heating when heavy, uphill towing is under way. I am guessing that my computer has been reprogramed at some point and more fuel is being injected than the radiator is designed to cool. I know my trans cooler is clean. I have tried cleaning the radiator and intercooler with a garden hose. I am considering a hood scoop or some sort of vents in the hood. When it over heats I turn on the heater and open the hood and the engine temps drop in just a few minutes so I believe that the engine needs more cooling or I need to slow down a bit on hills. Any other cheap fixes to get more air in to cool things under the hood more?
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Just recently, at 68,400 miles, the engine on my 2004 Dodge Sprinter stopped abruptly (on the freeway) and various instrument panel lights turned on. When we tried to start the van again, the instrument panel lights turned on again, and there was a humming coming from under the hood. After letting the van sit for awhile, it started normally, but the engine control unit light remained on. We took it in to a nearby Dodge dealer and the mechanic recommended replacing the fuel filter. We had the filter replaced.
The engine has not stopped abruptly anymore, however, when we try to start the van immediately after shutting it down, sometimes it will not start. Instrument panel lights light up and there is a humming coming from under the hood again. After letting the van sit for awhile longer, the van starts normally.
Previously, at 34,150 miles, the engine control unit light went on when the engine was started and stayed on for about 250 miles. The van drove normally during this time. The same thing happened at 59,100 miles and the light stayed on for about 250 miles again.
We take the Sprinter on long trips, and now we hold our breaths while starting the engine.
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I have had my 2005 Dodge Sprinter, 2500, with 214,000 miles, for one month. When I bought it the seller told me that after I drove it for a while it would become sluggish and not keep up to 70MPH. I have found that when this happens it may slow down to 50MPH going up a hill and takes a while to get back up to 65+ on the flat. Sometimes it goes into slug mode when I cannot accelerate normally in heavy city traffic. Slug mode happens at all speeds. When it happens I can get back to peppy mode by shifting into neutral, turning the engine off, coasting and turning the engine on. I tried this because I noticed when I stopped to go in a store and shut the engine off, it was peppy even if if the stop is only a few minutes.
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We have a 2004 Dodge Sprinter 2500 Van 5 Cylinder Mercedes Turbo Diesel. Recently, at around 70,000 miles, when we start the engine block heater, the sounds are not normal. The heater appears to start working, since we can hear and smell the burner, but the heating ceases within a few minutes. The unusual sounds continue until the heater is turned off.
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Have a 2004 Dodge Sprinter. Headlights not working unless turning on the bright lights and also left blinkers are on. At this point if bright lights are turned off then the headlights working.
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I drive a 2006 Dodge Sprinter, 3500 with dual wheels. When changing from park to drive, the gears would not automatically shift from first to second gear. The engine kept revving, so I stopped the vehicle, and started it again. No problem. I spoke with a retired mechanic (friend of mine's father) and he said we should probably change the transmission fluid. When I called the dealer, he said they could do it but that he also saw problems arise when the fluid was changed on vehicles with high mileage (it has 225,000 miles on it).
Should I go ahead and change the fluid, or not?
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We have a 2004 Dodge Sprinter 2500 Van 5 Cylinder Mercedes Turbo Diesel. Just recently, at 68,400 miles, the engine stopped abruptly (on the freeway) and various instrument panel lights turned on. When we tried to start the van again, the instrument panel lights turned on again, and there was a humming coming from under the hood. After letting the van sit for awhile, it started normally, but the engine control unit light remained on. We took it in to a nearby Dodge dealer and the mechanic recommended replacing the fuel filter. We had the filter replaced.
The engine has not stopped abruptly anymore, however, when we try to start the van immediately after shutting it down, sometimes it will not start. Instrument panel lights light up, and there is a humming coming from under the hood again. After letting the van sit for awhile longer, the van starts normally.
Previously, at 34,150 miles, the engine control unit light went on when the engine was started and stayed on for about 250 miles. The van drove normally during this time. The same thing happened at 59,100 miles and the light stayed on for about 250 miles again.
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My G35 has around 115,000 miles and it slows down when driving, particularly when driving uphill. RPMs reach 2-3 and car begins to drag with an occasional jerking. I've replaced all spark plugs (don't think I've ever replaced them since I bought the car used with 40,000 miles) and I notice one of the coil packs and its spark plug was oily, but then I also notice it was not connecting to the spark plug like the rest the rubber tip was ripped. I replaced the coil pack, but the issue still exist. I just got back from a test drive and this time it doesn't lose speed so much, but still trembles, especially when going uphill.
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I tried going up the driveway and as I was accelerating, I almost noticed a little "slowing down" while trying to accelerate up the driveway. It was really snowy so I am thinking that it might have been the ESC trying to fix the path. I thought about this after I got it up the driveway, so I couldn't test it.
Is this normal or should I have it looked at by a mechanic???
2011 Hyundai sonata SE...
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For those of you that own both a TCH and a 2010 Prius I have a question for you. My commute is only 6-7 miles to work and currently I am getting approximate 45mpg displayed on the mfd. I think I read somewhere that the display calculations may be a little high but all in all I am very happy with my mpg. I am considering trading my 09 TCH for a 2011 or possibly 2010 Prius if the price is right. Anyway If I accelerate my 09 TCH to approximately 41 mph and take my foot off the accelerator, when the car speed slows to about 38 to 37 mph the engine will shut down. I can now lightly push the accelerator to drive along just using the battery. If on a flat road or a slight down hill grade I can even pick up speed and get to about 41 mph before the engine starts back up. My question is how does the Prius work the same way? What are the speeds for the Prius?
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My transmission bumps every time it slows down to 30 mph, dealer said needs to be rebuild.
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I own a Chrysler 300 touring. It's 2006 and its automatic transmission. I was driving on the highway and I reached 60mph then I heard a sound and a rough push and suddenly the car started loosing speed. It didn't loose power. Luckily I was getting off the highway and turned on the hazard lights, I made it into a neighborhood and let the car reach 0. When it did I pressed on the accelerator and it started moving.
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Ok so this one is pretty hard to explain. I was driving home from school, doing about 55 in fifth gear. Out of no where, my car started to bog very hard and slow down. I pulled into a lot and as I was in the entrance of the lot the car haulted itself but stayed on. I say there for about a minute, then put it in 1st and drove into a parking spot. I stayed there for a little, then drove home in the right lane and it seems to be back to normal. I also did a few test pulls and it felt a little laggy but that might just be in my head. It's a 2012 golf r, 37k miles with just an EVOMs intake. Stock otherwise. What this could be? Don't want to get stuck on the highway somewhere if this happens again.
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Alright here comes another head scratcher, the car has no check engine lights, no oil is leaking, and all of the liquid levels are at their normal readings. The problem I am having is the car feels like it is dragging a bit, as in it takes a bit to accelerate and as soon as I lift my foot off the gas it drastically slows down.
Talk about 0 to 60 in 30 seconds and 60 to 30 in 5 seconds. Now what I have noticed is every time I pass a radar detecting sign, to make sure you are going the speed limit or slower, which in this case it is supposed to be 25 mph, my speedometer will read 30 to 35 mph, but the sign will state I am going 23 or 24 mph.
I know the detector is working because I tested it with my dad's Buick and while the Buick stated 20 the detector also stated 20, I know what you are saying maybe it's just a fluke, well I tested the detector with my brothers cougar, my sisters Honda, and my friends Chrysler and they all stated 20 both on speedometer and the detector. I have changed the spark plugs, the ecm, the ignition coil, the spark plug wires, starter, the valve cover gasket, hoses that were broken, the speed sensor, cam shaft position sensor and it passed the state inspection.
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I have 1995 Dodge Neon (automatic). Lately, after long trips and on the highway the "check engine" light will come on. Then, the car seems to struggle shifting. I will be cruising along at like 68 MPH, then ease my foot off the gas to slow down, and the engine/car awkwardly jerks 2-3 times as it slows down. Trying to stay in the 60-70 MPH range is hard because is keeps hesitating and jerking as my speed changes, not HEAVILY but enough to make driving unpleasant. My cruise control stopped working about a year ago, I have not had it looked at yet, but I thought I should mention it. When I let the car rest overnight, the light goes off, and there is not problem until I go on a long trip again (around 200 miles.) This only happens at higher speeds, around town there is not a problem.
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I have an '09. Experience a shakiness/shaking when the car slows down to a stop? Like, you slow down to a stop, then the car starts to shake for a few seconds.
I feel like it doesn't happen to me in neutral, which makes me think it is the transmission. Sometimes I get a rough/shaky start as well....
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