Oldsmobile - Oil - Transmissions - Eighty-eight :: 1996 - Significant Loss Of Fluid With No Leaks?
Jan 22, 2011
My mother owns a 1996 Olds Eighty-Eight that has developed a magical ability plus another problem that multiple mechanics have failed to solve. Magic: The car, a few miles after an oil change and verifying the correct amount of oil was put in at the change, magically generates more oil to the point the level on the stick doubles. Problem: At the same time, the car has significant loss of transmission fluid, but no leak large enough to account for the loss. I suspect the two are linked, and one mechanic even said that there was a valve or something that could go bad or get stuck and allow the transmission fluid to get pulled into the oil, but no one has been able to definitively reach an answer or fix the issue.
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Three weeks ago my 1997 Oldsmobile eighty-eight (75K miles) shut off while I was driving. I was able to pull over and restart it immediately. This morning it happened again, same exact way. It shut off without warning, nothing seemed out of the ordinary, except for the shutting off! For the past few months my check engine light has gone on and subsequently turned off two-three days later. Most of the time when it turns on, I have been driving on the interstate for an extended period of time:at 70 or 75 mph.
I had it looked at once and they said the light was triggered by the transmission- they serviced it but I didn't notice much difference. Occasionally, I feel the car stutter while slowing down, almost like it might stall-but it never actually has. Finally, ever since I got the car-two years ago from my grandparents, there is a pull occasionally when I am going about 40-45mph and speeding up-almost like it is having trouble shifting. I don't know if all these issues are related...not sure who to trust to take it to. What could be going on?
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1994 olds 88 royale with 3.8 sometimes hesitates or "bumps" when accelerating. sometimes it seems like the tranny is slipping, but other times it seems to feel like poor firing or slight misfire with hesitation. when at highway speeds of +50 it runs fine but occasionally bumps or seems sluggish if i rapid accelerate or speed up to pass. do i have a tranny problem or poor performance or emissions problem.
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My 1997 Olds 88 (3800) runs beautifully but has a mysterious stalling problem. I can drive a few miles and the car will just shut down while driving. I can drive 300+ miles and have no problem at all however this problem does not seem limited to short trips only. Sometimes it will fire up right after stalling and other times i have to wait for hours before it will start again. I replaced the ignition control module and the problem persisted. Just yesterday I had the fuel pump replaced and new lines put in. I brought the car home yesterday and it ran fine but last night it would not start. I just brought it back to the shop today. I have heard people talk about a crank sensor maybe being the problem. I am sick of this guessing game. It is costing me a fortune. It's a great car...when it is running. Only 89,000 miles!
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168k and going strong..kinda. At @35mph it shutters then seems to go into gear. At @ 45mph it revs and the techomter goes above 2k rpms and it feels like I'm using the brake pedal, but I am not. Simple fix(not alot$$) or major? PS, I've changed trans fluid but no luck. If I stay below 45, no problem. Seems 3+4th gear have me stumped?
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Accent 2008, 130000km
For several days my accent has quite a significant loss of power (I have trouble reaching 100km h) and the check engine is on. At the beginning I thought it was a coil that was lacking but I have verified and 4 are ok. I verified the check engine codes and got the code 420 inches and po172. po = 420 capacity threshold and lower catalyst po = 172 system too rich .... I do not know what to do with that! can you recommend me a good Mechanic on the south shore of mtl.
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I have lost significant power to my 2001 B5 1.8T, my first though is that it was the turbo, i took it to a mechanic who said it could either be the CAT or the Turbo but wants to charge me two hours of labor to find out. Is there any simple way to determine what is the source of my lack of power? I know the turbo is not working at all but the mechanic said that it could be because of a dead CAT and the turbo could actually be fine. I do not have any fault codes which makes this even more strange. Also even with the lack of power I have still been driving it because I need a car, what's the potential harm. The car runs normally, its just slow, it doesn't make funny noises or anything.
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I have a 94 Oldsmobile Cutlass Ciera, (3.1L V6 GM3100 engine). When I start the engine it idles very rough and usually stalls if I put it in gear. Eventually once it warms up I can drive it, but when I do drive it's extremely sluggish on accelerations and acts like its about to die. At constant speeds it runs mostly ok. We figured it was a vacuum leak, but we've tried every test we can think of to find it and talked to a couple mechanics and tried their tests and it passed all of them. Supposing it isn't a vacuum leak, then what it might be?
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On most of the newer cars there is no transmission dipstick and therefore there is no way for the consumer to check the condition or the level of the automatic transmission fluid and also there is no way for the consumer to add fluid or transmission additives. Is there a way to taking the vehicle to a dealer or a mechanic?
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Recently purchased this 1996 Achieva. Had trouble starting it from the "get go". Had to turn the key and if the lights came on it would start when one turned the key further. If the lights (dash lights) didn't come on one would have to turn the car all the way off and try again. This process was getting longer and longer until it would not start at all. Mechanic says the computer is telling it that it is stolen. Also, it has a Pontiac steering column.
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My Olds 98 has been having a very annoying problem and it's only been getting worse and worse as of late..
Ever since day one my car has always stalled while idling at a red light (in drive, in park it didn't really stall), well just a couple of weeks ago, if my tank fell below 1/4 it would stall repeatedly as if it were out of gas, and it has only been getting worse from there, stalling constantly at 1/2, 3/4.. And now today I am at a full tank of gas and I stalled about 6 times on my street, it's completely embarassing and I'm really close to just driving it off of a cliff.
Occasionally I would be able to "revive" it on the highway if I pump the gas aggressively, but that just delays the inevitable for about 10 seconds. Also, the noise it makes as it's stalling (and as I'm pumping the gas pedal) is a loud chirping noise, I'm not sure if the 2 are related but sometimes my car would also jerk back for a split second driving 70mph or more, and it'd send make my (digital) speedometer go haywire.
I should also mention that I had a previous problem where my back tired exploded causing a ton of wires near the back of my car (and near the gas tank) to rip apart.
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Noticed slow to move forward at a stop sign, pulled in to get gas, after fillup would not drive forward in any gear, drives fine in reverse. The station attendant checked the fluid, said it was a little low bot looked ok and did not smell burnt. He added some more but no luck. Was able to get home, short drive in first. Should i try to drive to transmission shop if any better or tow? No problems in past 178K, kept up with all regular service and fluid changes. Does this sound like a doomed transmission? Anything i can do short term to get thru holidays?
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I have recently run into a problem with my transmission on my van, mainly that it won't drive forward, however reverse seems to work just fine. Prior to the problem: Before it stopped working altogether, there were a few symptoms that I should tell you before we get started. First, upon starting the vehicle and putting it into drive the vehicle acted like it was in neutral, or barely crawled forwarded. If you waited a few moments, or pressed the accelerator, it would quickly engage and once it had been driven for 5 minutes no more problems shifting gears would occur.
I attributed these problems to low fluid and/or cold fluid (as the problem would noticeably become better/worse with warmer/colder conditions respectively) So I was content with topping off the fluid and seeing if the problem persisted consistently when it got warmer. 2.) There would be at times a loud clunk when the gear finally engaged after pushing the accelerator.
I have a repair manual for the van which has a trouble shooting guide and it said to check the universal joint. I did, and it seemed intact, rust free, and fine. I researched it a little more and did not see any indications that this was an awful horrible problem, so again, I decided to wait until the weather changed to investigate further. Problem: One day I drove the van to north Austin and left it in a parking lot for a few hours while I went inside. When I came back out and started the vehicle it would not engage 'drive' no matter what I did. It has since been sitting in the parking lot for about 2 weeks and the owner finally gave me the boot so I pushed it out onto the street.
What I have tried: I found a leak where the transmission fluid connects to the radiator (a hose was clamped too hard) and seemed to have fixed that problem. So that solves the problem of why there was low fluid in the first place. I took the doghouse apart and replaced a few vacuum lines that were extremely worn and damaged. At one point this was causing the van to stall immediately after starting, but have since been fixed. I checked the shift linkage where it connects to the transmission housing and, luckily, was able to view the dial on the transmission case where it connected; all moves of the shifter do in fact engage the dial and turn it. I pulled the two electrical connections off of the transmission housing to inspect them for burns or corrosion, although I would doubt reverse would work if they were damaged, and found none. They seemed to be in fine shape. The throttle cable seems to be fine. The speedometer cable is missing I believe because I can't find it and the speedometer doesn't work. However, unless I'm missing something this wouldn't cause the problem. Fluid seemed dirty, but I did not feel that is had be roasted over a fire pit (indicating burned out parts?)
Possibilities: I am going to drop the pan today I hope and investigate a little further inside the transmission. The transmission fluid does NOT seem to be getting any hotter than luke-warm. From what my manual tells me this should not be. Transmission fluid should get to a point where it is too hot to comfortably touch. I am wondering if this could be caused by one of three things a.) Broken pump not circulating the fluid b.) Clogged filter - fluid unable to circulate c.) No vacuum - not allowing the pump to get adequate air pressure to operate. I am wondering if, maybe, the fluid is not being warmed enough to expand correctly to let the transmission operate.
I have heard that these go bad, but are cheap and easy to replace. I have put this option off because I'd assume the regulator controls more than one thing and so if it were broken something like say, the fuel system would be affected as well. Maybe I'm wrong? Could it also be the hose itself? I think there is also a short somewhere in the electrical system, although I think it's located in the heater wiring, because the battery will drain heavily when it rains and the heater is engaged. I have read somewhere that this may cause the transmission not to operate properly, but it seemed to me like it is something else. In any case, I have been stuck in Austin now for quite some time, don't have money to pay a shop 2,000 to diagnose, over charge me for parts, and charge 10 hours of labor for a rebuild when you can buy these transmissions, it seems, for relatively cheap. I am hoping this is a relatively simple problem that someone here would be able to recognize and diagnose, or at the very least be able to say: "Check and fix these 4 things and come back." I'm trying very hard to learn this car inside and out and the repair manual I bought doesn't want me playing with the transmission at all - simply says "take it to a pro chump"
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My 96 Camry LE has an oil leak coming from what looks to be a bolt hole on the right side of the engine. She has 171K miles, good condition. I'm not entirely sure it's the rear main seal as people keep telling me.
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Grinding noise in front end, replaced caliper, bearing, brakes and cv joint...
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Getting DTC P0401 on my 2011 with 92K miles. First time I got the CEL, we were on vacation, so I read the code, took a screen shot, then cleared it. Called my normal dealer, setup an appt, verified that they thought the truck was safe to drive. Coming home from vacation, I was pulling the TT in my sig, and noticed significant loss of power on hills that I have pulled many times before that I couldnt even hold 55 on now. Transmission dropped into 4th a couple times, on hills that it would sometimes stay in 6th, or at most drop to 5th.
CEL stayed off for a week , and came back on again. The funny thing is that after a day or 2, the CEL went back out on its own. I read the codes the P0401 is still there as a stored code(I did not clear this time). Around town the truck drives fine, the only thing I noticed was the decrease in power when towing. Truck is at the dealer now. TECH "isn't convinced" yet that there is a problem. He is not finished diagnosing yet, and I am sure that he has specific tests to run, but I am starting to fear that I will be getting the call to come get my truck.
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When I fill up my washer fluid reservoir, about half of it leaks out somewhere near the front of the passenger door and falls to the ground. Where it could be coming from? Is the rear washer hose routed through this area?
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1996 / 2.2 L4 / 186k / Upper engine rebuild 30k ago
Car was driven on a errand by my mother. Upon trying to leave for home, the car started running very rough, and stalling. From the description she gave on the phone, it sounded like a plugged up exhaust. I told her to get some fresh gas and ease it home after.
When I checked the car for codes, I got 2. A P0300 and a P0122. Okay, so the throttle position switch has taken a dump, that's easy enough. The car has 186k miles, but my constant nannying usually soothes her, so surely that's all, right? God, I wish that turned out to be true.
I pulled the plugs, and #4 was gas fouled and sooty, #2 and #3 looked lean, and #1 was partially wet fouled. There was also gasoline in the oil. When the car would run, it would run the gambit from idling semi rough then stalling out and refusing to restart, almost like it was flooded, to idling scarily bad and no pedal response, to running too high of an idle and idle searching.
Since I have:
Replaced the TPS
Replaced the IAC
Replaced the CTS
Replaced the MAP
Replaced the ICM
Replaced the FPR
Replaced both ignition coils
Replaced plugs and wires
Replaced the fuel injectors
Replaced the PCV
Replaced the fuel filter
Checked the pintle on the EGR (looked good, cleaned)
Checked for Vacuum leaks (as best I could)
Checked the Fuel pressure (40 PSI) (drops to 20 after shutoff)
Checked for exhaust restriction (ran open exhaust manifold)
That brings us to today. New injectors just in, and the engine will run, but rough and loud. It almost sounds like the firing order is off slightly (I am using 1342 or from L to R 4132) and throttle control is almost non existent. It also shuts off when its warm almost like its flooded. No codes are showing. (despite discovering a sensor in back being unplugged and the O2 sensor being unplugged at times).
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I been working on this car for several weeks now. I have change,
1. The starter.
2. New Battery, New Plugs, New Crankshaft sensor.
I even change the belt tensioner because is was going bad (Broken). In fact I can hear the full pump running. After doing all this the car still not turn on. there is full in the full injector.
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My 1996 Buick Park Avenue had problems finding reverse. You would have to move the shifter in and out of reverse and get it in just the right spot to go into reverse. once it is going in reverse you can hear a slight ticking sound like the park gear isn't totally disengaged. now it is nearly impossible to find reverse and when you put it in neutral its like it is in park.
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I have a 1994 Oldsmobile Cutlass Cruiser 3.1 with an intermittent engine power loss during acceleration. Usually it occurs just after leaving a stop sign or light once or sometimes twice in a row. It is not a hesitation - it is a very abrupt loss of power. I've kept up on the standard maintenance very well and the car has 80,000 miles, so I would not suspect spark plugs, wires, or fuel filter. It does not have a tachometer, but I am 99% sure the transmission is not slipping or jumping out of gear, but that the engine is actually loosing spark or fuel. This problem is very intermittent, but it has triggered the check engine light a couple of times. The check engine light does not stay on, and when I took it to my mechanic he said to keep driving it until the light stayed on or the problem was more easy to replicate. Right now, if a mechanic went for a test drive, there is a good chance it would not show any symptoms. My mechanic did mention that it may turn out to be an ignition module.
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