Oldsmobile - Ninety-eight :: Car Will Not Move For 15 To 30 Seconds When Make A Hard Stop
Aug 19, 2012
Recently had transmission filter and fluid changed (at 80,000 miles). I had no problems up to that point. Now if you make a hard stop the car will not move for 15 to 30 seconds. Acts like its in neutral. Mechanic put another filter in trying to solve problem, no luck. Car going uphill, downhill, or on level before stop makes no difference. Moving shift lever to another gear after stop changes nothing. Its a 1990 model
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I have a 1995 Oldsmobile 98 sedan with engine braking problems. It has the 3800 engine (complete with a slight intake manifold leak, as per the GM custom) and low miles. I recently moved from the midwest to the west coast, where this battleship encountered real mountains for the first time on the road trip west. Driving into Yellowstone NP from Cody, Wyoming I encountered a particularly hilly stretch of US highway that had a steep grade and plenty of curves down the hill.
I took the car out of overdrive and put it down a gear to let the engine braking assist. Nothing happened. The car continued to speed up with no assistance from the engine, even in 2nd, which should have held me at around 45-50. To test this on the next big drop, I started at the top from a full stop, and in first gear. I should have been walking down the mountain, but instead the car kept speeding up to around 40 and 4000 rpms before I relented and shifted up.
Is this a transmission problem? Or would the lack of engine braking downhill but no transmission problems when tooling around town elsewhere indicate something else? Maybe a vacuum leak?
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Module or cam/crank sensors most likely? How difficult are the sensors to replace if module doesn't fix problem? 120 k mileage.
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I've been noticing on the 2006 I've purchased recently with 120k miles now, the MFD would show the ICE engine no longer is on and proving power when I cruise to a stop. However when I'm actually stopped, I noticed the ICE engine is still on, about 5 seconds after I make the complete stop, I then notice the ICE engine shut down. Although there are no DTCs on the car, this seems to baffle me on why it's happening. The mpg average on the car is lower than my other cars, it can be anywhere from low 40s to about 45mpg on the MFD. What could be causing this?
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I have a 2001 Toyota Solara. Whenever I make a hard right turn the car turns off. When I stop and put it in park I can always crank right back up. I can turn left with no problems. What the problem is.?
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We pulled out of the parking garage going up the hill it acting like i was in neutral all of a sudden. it was running fine but i was coasting backwards. After checking the tranny fluid it was mostly gone so as my wife and kid sat in the still running car I went for fluid. I put in in and then drove up that hill went around the corner and it did it again. Then i got towed home. When its cold it works when I drive a little this happens. Its on all gears and no matter how much gas I give it there is no attempt at shifting and no weird noises.
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2000 Intrigue 144,000 miles.
When you first start it up, the vehicle won't move in any gear. After a while of idling, it may start to drive, but the engine RPMs are way too high for the corresponding speed that you're driving. 4000 RPMs to hold 45 MPH.
Could this be the input piston? I've heard those wear and then don't seal well, bleeding off fluid pressure. Torque converter?
Also, the one diagnostic code is P0742 - TCC stuck on. I realize that this could be unrelated to the vehicle not moving when cold.
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After I turn left from a stop my 2002 Alero pulls hard to the left for a while. Then after a while the car tracks straight. The same happens when I turn right from a stop; the car pulls to the right for a short time - then tracks straight. I checked the tie rods - they are tight.
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I was driving my Oldsmobile the other day and the speedometer needle seemed to "bounce" up and down and then stop. I removed the cable and it is intact I can spin it and the other end spins. I jacked the rear end up (both wheels off the ground and started it up and put it in HI. I did not see the output shaft turning. Which leads me to ask a whole bunch of questions. Can I get a new output shaft (aftermarket) or do I need to find another Hydramatic and cannibalize it. I also wonder if the fact that two years ago my speedometer cable came loose at the transmission and the road wore the end off so I replaced the core with an aftermarket one'
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Back brakes don't bleed. car doesn't stop anymore. The passenger back brake stops even though it doesn't bleed, but the driver side brake doesn't make the tire stop and it doesn't bleed. The e-brake works. I just need to know what could be wrong. 1995 Oldsmobile Cutlass...
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I have a 90 Cutlass Cruiser SL and it is shifting real hard going down to first. Other gears are fine. Checked motor mounts, ok. Also stutters at higher speeds in OD but when I kick it down to drive it quits. She has a lot of miles but I can't afford a new car.
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The 93 Cutlass Ciera 3.3 6 cyl. is hard to start..takes like 3 tries to start it...even after changing..oxygen sensor, MAF sensor, coil pack, fuel filter, air filter, good plug wires, crank position sensor, fuel pump, sending unit....if idling low will stall sometimes. Mechanic said it's slow getting spark up just when starting it..not sure why..
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3 mechanics can't find what is wrong but when I come to a stop sign or light my car stalls, not every time but a lot. Also, seems to happen more in cold or wet weather. So every time I stop and idle I have to quick put it into park.
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Every time i make a turn or accelerate decently hard, i hear a pop, which generally sounds like a tree branch snapping...this isn't a quiet noise either, also i can feel it in the steering wheel sometimes as well.
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My 2000 alero was WAY low on oil so I added a quart then drove for about 45 mins at 40 mph the car seemed fine. the following morning when I went to start it the car turned over but would not start when it finally started the engine knocks and it is putting out a lot of white exhaust. obviously I need to see a mechanic but what might be wrong. my neighbor said one of the cylinders isn't doing what ever it is supposed to do he said it passed a compression test but I don't know what that means...
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I bought a used 89' Ford e150. Automatic transmission, 194k mi. I fixed it up a bit and it is very much drivable. I just took it up to northern az and then back down. I had to have it towed recently and now my transmission is acting up. When I want to move it i put it into gear, either reverse or drive, now while accelerating slowly the vehicle doesn't move for several seconds until the transmission catches and it then starts to move. It does this now while driving and having to stop for lights and signs. It has a delay until the transmission catches. I wonder if the vehicle is dragged up on to a flatbed tow truck this can damage my transmission or driveshaft And cause this. What can I do to fix it
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A friend has a '90 olds Ciera with the 3800 engine. The engine will quit running at a stoplight or almost any idle speed and then will be hard to start. May have to wait a few minutes before it restarts.
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I have an 08 AWD GS350 ...
For the last few months, it has been squeaking whenever I make hard left turns, (into parking spaces etc, usually low speed). I thought it was the brakes, but just replaced all 4 pads and all 4 rotors. So that officially eliminates that.
The car doesn't have any unusual vibration, tracks straight, so I don't think its a wheel bearing or anything. I jacked the car up and tried to shake the tire/wheel to see if there was any play but don't see anything.
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I have a steering problem in my 2003 forester when i make an extreme right it scrapes and is hard to turn. I took it to morn and they said it was the timing belt, they changed the timing belts and the problem is exactly the same.
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I'll be driving along, and when I make a relatively hard right turn, I'll hear a buzzing coming from under the hood from that point until my destination. If the car is stopped (usually about 10-20 mins) I'll start it back up and no buzzing.
I've tried pulling over and stopping/starting the car with no luck. I've shifted gears, including into park and neutral, with no luck. I"ve even tried a hard left turn (no luck)!
The buzz is not terribly loud, but rises and falls perfectly with engine RPMs. At idle it's not noticeable, but increases in pitch with the RPMs. It sounds like the engine sounds on a really cold day before it warms up. If I put it in park I can rev the engine and reproduce the same effect as when driving. It doesn't go away at a certain point i.e. I don't think it's resonance.
This is a 1998 Nissan 200SX with about 90K miles.
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Due to the clicking-ratcheting sound my 1997 Civic makes when I make hard turns or U turns, two mechanics (one drove the car) say that I need two new front axles at a cost of $400 ($200 each). I have driven the car like this for maybe a couple thousand miles before I looking into it. How much longer can I drive it like this before it gets dangerous or fails? I now only make gentle turns and so minimize the clicking-ratcheting sounds that happen only on hard or aggressive turns. The car only has 76,000 miles on it. Is it dangerous to keep driving it?
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