Oldsmobile - Delta :: 1978 Delta Cutting Off When Put It In Gear
Feb 7, 2011
I have a 1978 delta 88 and when i start it in the morning and let it warm up sometimes it will cut off when i put it in gear. it also cuts off when its hot and i put it in gear.
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1987 olds delta 88, 106,000 miles Pulling out onto the road one day, my car died and would not restart. Was idling fine, happened when I hit the gas. Here are the things checked. Ignition control module and coils checked ok at autozone. I replaced the cam and crank sensors, the coolant temp sensor, the plugs and the tps. Most of the time it will not try to fire, it backfires sometimes. I has started twice, but then would not restart. I have spark and fuel pressure, but will not even fire with starter fluid.
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MY gc started cutting out a few weeks ago while idling in gear. I changed out the four plugs I could get the wires off. It's a v6. It started running better for a couple of days. I need to know of any way to get the stuck boot off. I also have a feeling there is something else wrong. Anything else that might be causing it to cut out. It has progressed to cutting out while going down the highway.
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2002 Suzuki XLZ 4WD. It has 149,000 miles, has had a new starter, new fuel pump and lines, and new brakes in the past year. Bought it a couple of weeks ago and took it straight to shop, so I have no personal history with this car.
Now: have replaced all catalytic converters and exhaust pipe. Have also replaced Mass Air Flow Sensor.
Great news - all computer codes are cleared. Runs great when in park or neutral (30 min or more). Mechanics then moved it around parking lot with no problem, so they trusted it enough to take it on a test drive on the open road. Made it out of sight of shop (not sure how far, but it was an improvement over the last time!)...but required tow back.
Hooked back up to diagnostic computer, and found NO error codes. They are doing what they call "exploratory surgery" (yikes). Am I wrong in thinking this is probably a TPS issue? What are the other things that could cause this inconsistent power/stalling when it is put in gear?
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168k and going strong..kinda. At @35mph it shutters then seems to go into gear. At @ 45mph it revs and the techomter goes above 2k rpms and it feels like I'm using the brake pedal, but I am not. Simple fix(not alot$$) or major? PS, I've changed trans fluid but no luck. If I stay below 45, no problem. Seems 3+4th gear have me stumped?
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My car won't stay running. We've replaced the spark plugs, the air and fuel filter, the idle air control and beat on the catalytic converter (I know it's bad but it did make a difference).
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I'm driving an 87 v6 auto cutlass 130 000 km on it. Recently changed alternator and battery at mechanic.
After start up i put the car into gear but it wont shift into gear unless I give it a lot of gas and even when I do so it seems to have trouble keeping momentum /staying in gear. The shifts are rough. However after driving for a few minutes there are no issues at all.
It's been quite cold lately and I've noticed that if I let the car run for about 10-15 minutes before driving it's fine, no problems (although this seems a bit excessive).
Could this simply be an old car/cold weather issue or is there something else to consider?
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I have a 95 Olds Ciera 3.1L Auto Transmission 150,000 Miles. While going down the highway as I was accelerating the transmission went out of gear while still in Drive (felt like I was in neutral and coasting). I found that the only gears that work are 1st & 2nd No Drive or Reverse. This happened suddenly without any hint of a problem prior to this. when I got home I checked the fluid (which I changed last summer) It was still clean and did not have any unusual odor, also the fluid level was fine.
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I have a 90 Cutlass Cruiser SL and it is shifting real hard going down to first. Other gears are fine. Checked motor mounts, ok. Also stutters at higher speeds in OD but when I kick it down to drive it quits. She has a lot of miles but I can't afford a new car.
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I spilled coke into the gear shifter. This is causing my car to no longer move from reverse to park, vice versa. I have already removed the center console and can see the shifter, but I have absolutely no clue as to how to remove it from the vehicle and disassemble it so that I can wash it. Any directions for how to do this? Or better yet, a link to some sort of repair manual I can use?
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I have owned this 1989 Cutlas Ciera for nine months. I bought it for commuting, because my truck is a gas guzzler. Two weeks ago, the Ciera began tick tick ticking. It sounded like it was coming from the lifters. I tried the easy fix first, a little auto elixir, which I have never had much faith in, but figured I would try. I put half a bottle of Sea Foam in the oil. The exhaust smoked white for a few minutes and over the next 20 or so miles the ticking quieted some. 100 miles later, the oil was very dirty, and seemed thinned, so I changed the oil.
And, being that I had just topped off the tank, I added the remaining Sea Foam to the fuel, as the bottle informed me could clean fuel injectors. When I next started the Ciera, the lifter tick seemed louder, white smoke poured out of the exhaust and does not seem like it will stop smoking, and the car now stalls in gear. I'm not sure where to start: head gasket, adjust lifters, cam timing belt, could some of these symptoms be caused by the Sea Foam? It may be more economical to junk this car if repairs are costly, but I may be able to do the work myself if parts are responsible and repairs are only moderately difficult.
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I have a 94 Oldsmobile Cutlass Ciera, (3.1L V6 GM3100 engine). When I start the engine it idles very rough and usually stalls if I put it in gear. Eventually once it warms up I can drive it, but when I do drive it's extremely sluggish on accelerations and acts like its about to die. At constant speeds it runs mostly ok. We figured it was a vacuum leak, but we've tried every test we can think of to find it and talked to a couple mechanics and tried their tests and it passed all of them. Supposing it isn't a vacuum leak, then what it might be?
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I have a 78 4x4 I has SAT for a few years transmission has not shifted right since I've owned it. When taking off in d it just runs out first until I let off the gas then goes straight to third. Also will not go to second manually...
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I just picked up a 1978 ranchero, and the steering wheel seems very loose. Lots of play in it.
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It had no spark when I put a spark tester on, a few minutes later it started and runs fine. This has happened several months ago. Is their a way to test the spark control module.
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Replaced starter after which when i turn key to on position starter will engage and actually start engine; turn to accessory and starter will engage but wont start engine. Checked double checked and so on installation. And then exchanged for another rebuilt starter with same results. the reason for replacing the starter in the first place was during the winter went out to start to let motor run fur a while which it did. Went to move before completely warmed up and killed engine starter never made another sound. 1978 gmc 6000....
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I'm motoring along at speed & suddenly the car jerks once or several times with such violence that it pops out of gear leaving the engine racing. Everyone in the car is jerked hard back and forth; if this model had a cup holder the coffee would blast straight up. It feels like the windshield is going to flop out and the motor mounts throw up their hands and the whole shebang just drop onto the pavement. Then it carries on as if nothing happened.
And (a figurative) POW JERK JERK JERK...repeatI call it "stagger" or "gagging"; it happens more in hot weather, more when the engine is hauling up a hill. Not so much in cold weather. Based on that I'm guessing it's not electrical but fuel line related. (This car has a functioning vacuum pump which sings in hot weather.) So, does this model have 2 (TWO) fuel pumps? One under the rear seat and one ???? But why would it happen so much more often and with such violence in hotter weather? I've driven this car all over the West for 30 years. This problem started only a couple of years ago.
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My '78 245 drives just fine around the (flat) city but when I try to take it to the mountains it seems to struggle. It makes it fine up the hills for the first 30 minutes or so but eventually it starts to chug and will lose power and die. If I give it 10 minutes to rest it will start up just fine and drive fine for a while but if I continue to go uphill it will die again. It doesn't overheat too much, it just seems like it's not getting enough of something? And it doesn't seem like it's a fuel pump because i've replaced those before and it seems different this time. After returning home from the mountains, it's like nothing happened and it drives fine?
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My '78 Corolla SR5 with 2TC engine, starts sometimes, and sometimes not. If she has rested in the carport for a few days, she cranks right over and goes like blazes. After a twenty-mile run, if I shut her off, she won't start again. Not a sound not a click nothing. But if I leave her alone for a couple days, she cranks right over. I need to take the old girl through emissions pretty soon. I don't want her to go into a coma in the emissions bay. Her mechanics can find nothing wrong.
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I got Ford C6 Transmission bolted up to a 460 in a 1978 Ford F250 4x4. I recently had put all new gaskets in it and I change the fluid. The day I put it all back in my reverse was trying to lunge forward, my natural was a 1st gear, and drive was working fine. Now recently my park throws itself into gear. I got no burnt fluid, the clutches were fine when I put it back in???? What could it be, I'm running out of options before I do a manual transmission swap.
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I have a 78 F350 2wd With a 460. I want to install a 99 E4OD trans. I have the Trans it is rebuilt with all the upgraded parts. I was going to order the converter this week. I am not shure on the best programer to order and shifter to order.
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