I have a 90 Cutlass Cruiser SL and it is shifting real hard going down to first. Other gears are fine. Checked motor mounts, ok. Also stutters at higher speeds in OD but when I kick it down to drive it quits. She has a lot of miles but I can't afford a new car.
View 15 RepliesA friend has a '90 olds Ciera with the 3800 engine. The engine will quit running at a stoplight or almost any idle speed and then will be hard to start. May have to wait a few minutes before it restarts.
View 1 RepliesMy car is downshfting kinda hard from 2nd to 1st I guess, it's just before I stop. What's causing this? It's a 2002 V6 4Motion.
View 1 RepliesI have an 07 and in S mode the car does a pretty hard when down shifting around 3rd/2nd gear. if there is a fix for it? I'm going to talk to the dealer about to see what they say.
View 10 RepliesMy 2009 downshifts hard between 2nd and 1rst gear. Real distinct when stopping at a stop sign. I have 81,000 on it. I looked at older forum's and they said flashing the computer would assist. Just curious if it works for a vehicle with that many miles on it, or if it may be a more serious problem.
View 5 RepliesI recently bought a 2002 Accent with the 1.6 auto 133000 miles. I have been reading the postS around here about the crappy transmission. My car seems to have some life in the tranny still but it has slipped from 3rd to 4th gear around 45 mph when i get on the gas too hard. Its also a little sluggish to start off. My question is should i change the fluid out knowing i have a slipping issue? The reason i ask is that last time i changed the fluid and filter on a Jeep that was slipping i ended up having to rebuid it. Is that a real possibility if i change the fluid in this Hyundai?
View 3 RepliesGS350 ... The behavior is such that under hard braking, the transmission struggles to get into 1st gear from any speed to 0 MPH. Only happens under hard braking. Basically it feels like the tranny is slow in getting back to first. If im driving at 40 and brake hard to 0, once i stop, the tranny feels like its still getting into 1st for the next 2 seconds and then it hurches confirming it has reached 1st gear.
The second behavior is that when I am driving at 70 MPH or any speed, and i brake hard to reduce speed 10-15 mph, the rpms will go from its normal 70MPH Rpm ~2000 RPM and drop to idle speed around 500RPM while the car is still at 60 mph.
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Olds Cutlass Ciera, 1990, v-6 engineI warmed-up the engine for about 12 minutes this morning (after 8:30 a.m.), its maximum speed was 20 MPH at 30 RPM when I climbed up the hill to Agri Center from Bonita Lakes area on HW 19. I was afraid to exceed 30 RPM, so I stopped near the top of the hill for about a few minutes. After that, the road is down hill. The engine became vigorous and went beyond 60 MPH at 20 RPM.
View 5 RepliesI have a 2002 F150 Super crew with a 5.4 and a 4R70W tranny. The issue I am experiencing is when the truck is driven where the tranny has shifted through all it's gears and cruising at say 55 mph, when depressing the accelerator pedal it either downshifts of something unlocks making a shuddering sound which sounds like when you run over rumble strips on the side of the road. The shuddering only happens for maybe a second at the most. If I am on the accelerator pedal when it up shifts or locks back up it makes the shuddering sound again. The harder the unlocking / locking or downshifting / up shifting happens the harder and longer the shuddering is.
This shuddering happens at the very last transmission function which happens in the transmission during it's normal operation. Other tan this issue the tranny shifts and operates excellent.
I have been having an on going issue with my 1990 Oldsmobile. It will randomly stall while I am driving. It has happened while driving at speeds ranging from 25 to 50 mph. It always happens while I am driving, not while I am stopped. First I will feel the engine buck, and then the check engine light comes on. After this, I have about 10 seconds until the car completely stalls out and I have to pull over and attempt to restart. Sometimes it will restart immediately, other times it takes a few minutes. Sometimes when it restarts, the engine will "roar" as if I were pushing the gas down while in park.
Sometimes when I get it to restart, I can continue driving and it will not happen again, but other times it will happen continuously. This has been going on for about 6 months. I have brought it to the shop several times. My mechanic had to drive it around for awhile before it would occur again and he could understand what was going on. I have had the thermostat, alternator, and throttle replaced. After getting all this work done, the problem did not occur for several months...until today.
Module or cam/crank sensors most likely? How difficult are the sensors to replace if module doesn't fix problem? 120 k mileage.
View 16 RepliesI have a 1990 F250 with a 7.5 liter and an E4OD. It starting acting up a couple months ago. Tranny would seemingly go into neutral while on freeway. I figured trans was going out... After reading several threads I've decided to try changing the mlps first, got a new one at the dealer!!!. It is the updated one with the connector on the top. I'm currently waiting on a new pigtail from autozone (the original is in bad shape, wires frayed, insulation missing. Also I think when it started having issues we were having some serious rains, which may have caused this connect to get wet.
I believe a previous owner may have had the trans rebuilt at some point. The connect has 6 wires going in it and when I trace those wires back, two are spliced into one farther up the harness a bit. Looks like one is tied into a wire that goes to the solenoid harness. I'm hoping I can cut and splice the 6 wires into the new pigtail and be good.
For now, while I was under there I decided to pull the solenoid plug as instructed to make access to mlps plug easier... the lock is on the backside almost impossible to get to, I messed the plug up all the way around, but not fubarred. When I pulled the plug out, it was soaked in transmission fluid... Is that normal?
Just bought a 2015 golf TSI 4-door. First time VW buyer so Im not sure if these are normal or I should bring the car in to get checked.... At a dead stop when I accelerate the car seems to shake a little (until 2nd gear kicks in) then it stops shaking, Also, When Im in traffic and I go from dead stop to accelerate to slow down again, it feels like it is down shifting very hard.
View 6 RepliesI picked up an '08 R32 about two months ago and was having issues with the DSG and the dealership determined it was an issue with the mechatronic unit so they swapped it. That made a huge difference, but the downshifting is still very hard when coming to a slow stop (to the point where the car jumps), especially from 2nd to 1st gear. About half the time when I back out of a parking spot, then put the car in drive and start to give it gas, the car doesn't move for a few seconds as the RPM's build, then it slams into gear.
This all happens in drive (D). I haven't even used the other modes to know if it's happening there too. The dealership says they don't see any issues with it and there are no error codes and that there is nothing wrong with the car, but this is by far the worst transmission I've ever had in any car I've ever owned. I find it hard to believe that VW and Audi would put this in their higher end cars, so I can only assume there is something wrong with mine.
I purchased a 2012 Elantra Limited w/Tech last Wednesday and it has about 250 miles on it now. Downshifting is kind of hard. I've been driving with Eco mode on but have noticed the same thing w/o it on.
I'll get up to 45 mph and then let the car coast, every time the car downshifts a gear I feel it in the car. It causes me to jolt forward a little bit and is not very smooth. It shifts the same way while accelerating but then I don't really notice it b/c I'm speeding up.
It is annoying while just coasting b/c it feels like the car is braking a little every time it drops down a gear. Also, if it pushes me forward a little bit then the car probably is braking a little which seems kind of against the point of coasting...
I tow a car hauler that is about 8000 lbs. On my last trip occasionally when the truck would downshift into 5th under a load, it would bang in there pretty hard. Not a smooth transition, not every time just some times. Just wondering it that was normal or the start of a potential issue.
View 6 RepliesYesterday I took the R out to grab some food on my lunch break. Didn't drive like a lunatic or anything, pulled into T-Bell parking lot and the car didn't want to downshift. Ok Weird. coasted in, parked, and put it in neutral and let out the clutch and the car stalled like it was still in gear. Go to leave and the car doesn't want to go into reverse. Thats when I realized something had gone seriously wrong.
Basically the car is stuck in 3rd gear. I can get the shifter to engage into reverse but the car tries to creep forward like I have the e-brake on. It doesn't go into any other gear but 3rd or 4th, but even when the shifter is in the 4th position its still in 3rd gear. Even when the shifter is in the neutral position its in 3rd gear. I limped the car home. I've looked into it a little bit and I'm leaning toward the 3/4 shift fork being broken. I know this won't be a cheap repair.
I think if it is the shift fork I will be upgrading the the one piece steel versions.
I have been having this problem for the better part of a year, about 80% of the time when my transmission tries to downshift from 5th to 4th gear I hear a loud thud/bang which shakes the vehicle. The other 20% of the time the donwshift is smooth. I have tried manually shifting and get the same result. The problem does not seem to be getting worse. I have adjusted my driving and when accelerating in 5th gear at moderate speeds I accelerate just enough to keep tranny in 5th, so I don't get the thud.
View 4 RepliesI've just had my 2006 B6 fixed last monday....something with throttle body , fuel pressure sensor and transmission "flashed" since it was downshifting rough from 5th to 4th. Today while cruising on the highway at first "open gas cap" showed up so i pulled over turned engine off then back on, light was gone, then on may way from work engine light came ON out of nowhere so i have another appointment to have them look at it this coming sat.
View 4 RepliesSo I just purchased my new-to-me, CPO 2010 RX 350 two weeks ago. It had 81,750 miles when I purchased it, and it now has about 83,000 miles. I just came back from a weekend vacation, having driving about 500 miles total. This morning when I turned on the car, I noticed a message saying "Check AWD System," the check engine light was on, the general warning light was on, and the traction control light was on. As I was driving, I realized that the car wasn't downshifting properly. I didn't drive faster than 40 mph on my morning commute. When the car did downshift, it was a hard, jerky shift.
I did some reading on the forum, and many people suggested all the warning lights could be fixed by taking off and retightening the gas cap (due to the vehicle not reading the emissions properly or something?). I also read that topping off and overfilling the gas tank can be cause for the warning lights to go on. I did fill up once on my way home from my vacation, and haven't filled up since.
Anyways, I just now tried to adjust the gas cap and then restart the car, but the warning lights are still on. What I should do or if I should drive it a bit to let the emissions build up again? My problem is is that I live about 6 hours from a Lexus dealership, so I'm trying to figure out if I can resolve this on my own or what I should tell a mechanic specifically if I need to take it in.
I have an '86 Aerostar with the 2.3 four and 5-speed stick. The shifter is sloppy, and it's often hard to find 4th when downshifting from 5th, and sometimes, it shifts hard through all the gears. Other times, it works fine. The manual says that this shifter was used from 86 to 89 only. Did they use the same one on Rangers? Can I buy a rebuild kit? Or, is this a sign of some other problem such as the clutch slave cylinder?
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