Oldsmobile - Cutlassciera :: 1996 / 2.2 L4 Running Rough Idle And Stalling
Aug 30, 2016
1996 / 2.2 L4 / 186k / Upper engine rebuild 30k ago
Car was driven on a errand by my mother. Upon trying to leave for home, the car started running very rough, and stalling. From the description she gave on the phone, it sounded like a plugged up exhaust. I told her to get some fresh gas and ease it home after.
When I checked the car for codes, I got 2. A P0300 and a P0122. Okay, so the throttle position switch has taken a dump, that's easy enough. The car has 186k miles, but my constant nannying usually soothes her, so surely that's all, right? God, I wish that turned out to be true.
I pulled the plugs, and #4 was gas fouled and sooty, #2 and #3 looked lean, and #1 was partially wet fouled. There was also gasoline in the oil. When the car would run, it would run the gambit from idling semi rough then stalling out and refusing to restart, almost like it was flooded, to idling scarily bad and no pedal response, to running too high of an idle and idle searching.
Since I have:
Replaced the TPS
Replaced the IAC
Replaced the CTS
Replaced the MAP
Replaced the ICM
Replaced the FPR
Replaced both ignition coils
Replaced plugs and wires
Replaced the fuel injectors
Replaced the PCV
Replaced the fuel filter
Checked the pintle on the EGR (looked good, cleaned)
Checked for Vacuum leaks (as best I could)
Checked the Fuel pressure (40 PSI) (drops to 20 after shutoff)
Checked for exhaust restriction (ran open exhaust manifold)
That brings us to today. New injectors just in, and the engine will run, but rough and loud. It almost sounds like the firing order is off slightly (I am using 1342 or from L to R 4132) and throttle control is almost non existent. It also shuts off when its warm almost like its flooded. No codes are showing. (despite discovering a sensor in back being unplugged and the O2 sensor being unplugged at times).
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I have a 94 Oldsmobile Cutlass Ciera, (3.1L V6 GM3100 engine). When I start the engine it idles very rough and usually stalls if I put it in gear. Eventually once it warms up I can drive it, but when I do drive it's extremely sluggish on accelerations and acts like its about to die. At constant speeds it runs mostly ok. We figured it was a vacuum leak, but we've tried every test we can think of to find it and talked to a couple mechanics and tried their tests and it passed all of them. Supposing it isn't a vacuum leak, then what it might be?
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My car has suddenly started stalling a lot. I can get it to start right up if I put the clutch to the floor and it will idle fine until I start coming up of the clutch even while it in neutral. At times it will idle in neutral then start to idle rough and stall. I can drive it in reverse but can't drive it forward except in first if i keep the clutch at a certain point and not release it all the way. However when I try other gears sometimes it's like it does't want to go stalls. What it might be?
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Olds Cutlass Ciera, 1990, v-6 engineI warmed-up the engine for about 12 minutes this morning (after 8:30 a.m.), its maximum speed was 20 MPH at 30 RPM when I climbed up the hill to Agri Center from Bonita Lakes area on HW 19. I was afraid to exceed 30 RPM, so I stopped near the top of the hill for about a few minutes. After that, the road is down hill. The engine became vigorous and went beyond 60 MPH at 20 RPM.
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My 1996 S10 2.2 liter pickup has been having some 'issues'. Truck has been kind to me over the years, but now is running a bit rough. It has an irreguler idle and continues to run this way through all speeds. The blinking code reads "cylinder 1 misfire". I did all the basics. I changed the plugs and wires, ignition coils and fuel filter. Here is where is gets tricky, after changing the fuel filter, it ran great again. Then it started to run rough again later that day. I thought I somehow clogged up the new filter, so I removed the new one for inspection. Realizing there was nothing wrong with it, I reinstalled. Truck ran great again. Went out to drive it to work a couple hours later and it started fine, then after about 10 seconds of running, it went back to the rough idle.
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I have a 1985 Cutlass Ciera Brougham with a 2.5L four. Got in it one day and when I turned the key nothing happened except the dash lights came on. No clicking or buzzing, no engine turning over, nothing... Pulled the starter and had it tested, it passed. Then again it is only about a year old. I then jumped the poles on the starter and the engine came to life. Replaced the ignition switch ( the electrical part ) still have the same problem. Turn the key and nothing happens except the dash lights.
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The 93 Cutlass Ciera 3.3 6 cyl. is hard to start..takes like 3 tries to start it...even after changing..oxygen sensor, MAF sensor, coil pack, fuel filter, air filter, good plug wires, crank position sensor, fuel pump, sending unit....if idling low will stall sometimes. Mechanic said it's slow getting spark up just when starting it..not sure why..
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I have owned this 1989 Cutlas Ciera for nine months. I bought it for commuting, because my truck is a gas guzzler. Two weeks ago, the Ciera began tick tick ticking. It sounded like it was coming from the lifters. I tried the easy fix first, a little auto elixir, which I have never had much faith in, but figured I would try. I put half a bottle of Sea Foam in the oil. The exhaust smoked white for a few minutes and over the next 20 or so miles the ticking quieted some. 100 miles later, the oil was very dirty, and seemed thinned, so I changed the oil.
And, being that I had just topped off the tank, I added the remaining Sea Foam to the fuel, as the bottle informed me could clean fuel injectors. When I next started the Ciera, the lifter tick seemed louder, white smoke poured out of the exhaust and does not seem like it will stop smoking, and the car now stalls in gear. I'm not sure where to start: head gasket, adjust lifters, cam timing belt, could some of these symptoms be caused by the Sea Foam? It may be more economical to junk this car if repairs are costly, but I may be able to do the work myself if parts are responsible and repairs are only moderately difficult.
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I been working on this car for several weeks now. I have change,
1. The starter.
2. New Battery, New Plugs, New Crankshaft sensor.
I even change the belt tensioner because is was going bad (Broken). In fact I can hear the full pump running. After doing all this the car still not turn on. there is full in the full injector.
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I recently bought an '98 Oldsmobile Intrigue, I do not know much of anything more than how to check fluids and were to put them when low, So here's the issues that I have come across.
Roughish idle. when stopped and in drive it has a rough idle but not bad yet.
Driver Side windows do not go up or down. The driver window is stuck with a 1/4 inch gap I keep weather proof tape over it. the back window slides up and down but not with the button also held up by tape. I can hear the motor running when I press the button but no luck.
A/C motor works but no air blows out of the vents.
Driver side back up lights don't work and Driver side front blinker or parking light does not work.
Security light recently come on and can't get it to go off whenever the car is started and it is a steady light no flash or blink.
I already know there is a small leak in the radiator and even with the issues it has I love the lil car and want to fix it up to proper working order. So, what I can possibly do?
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A friend has a '90 olds Ciera with the 3800 engine. The engine will quit running at a stoplight or almost any idle speed and then will be hard to start. May have to wait a few minutes before it restarts.
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I have been beatingy head against the wall for the last month with this car. It started out by just running really rough and stalling out. Found out that I had a bad clamp on the air intake that attaches to the throttle body. Replace that after I already replaced the MAF. Everything was great till couple days later then the car just crank crank crank no fire....
I cleaned the grounds pulled the plugs and coils, had perfect spark. Put everything back come to find out after going thru my Bentley manuals I jumped around the fuel pump relay fuel pump kicked on perfect started great! Replaced the fuel pump relay BAM! Ran great!!!! For 2 days..... After that right when I pulled into the drive way the car would not start.... So I tried everything again.... To no avail..... Check the codes again, now I'm throwing these codes which yes I did cross reference in my Bentley manual.
P1117- O2 sensor heater circuit bank 1 sensor 2 short to ground
P1198- O2 sensor heater circuit bank 1 sensor 2 electrical malfunction
P1472- EVAP emission control LDP circuit short to ground
P1516- Intake manifold changeover valve circuit open
And the dreaded same code I've had the whole time........
P0102- Mass or volume air flow circuit low input.
I have also tried tracking down any bad wires, and testing resistance...
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I brought the car in for service at the dealer. They said that the car had several codes indicating low oil and the car was down 2 quarts but there was no leak. They also said the noise I heard was the timing belt. The noise is gone after the service and the car is running smoothly. Coincidentally, or not, I got a notice from GM saying they were changing the oil monitoring software on the 2010 Equinox to recommend me frequent oil changes.
1) What could cause the car to loose 2 quarts of oil over less than 6000 mile? Is this normal or an Equinox problem.
2) Would low oil cause the timing belt to make a noise.
3) Do I have a lemon and am I being ripped off y the dealer?
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My 03 Sante Fe is running a little rough and is stalling. My Mechanic said this P code was going to run me $1300. I'm not very mechanical , but this just seems very high. He said that aftermarket sensors would not work and only Hundai parts for the fix.........
2003 Sante Fe, LX, 3.7 l engine
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I'm having issues with my 2004 Toyota Corolla with 118K. Every few weeks, the car will go through a phase where it will stall out, run rough and hesitate on acceleration. Oftentimes it is accompanied with the rotten egg smell coming from the catalytic converter. When I decelerate to a stop light, the car will stall. When I start it back up, I have to rev the engine to 2000 rpm in neutral to keep it from re-stalling. Once I get up to about 10-15 mph, the car will jerk and sputter, and at 40mph, the jerking motion gets worse. If the car doesn't stall it'll run rough and have the rotten egg smell. I'm assuming the smell is from unburnt gas.
I find it happens more often when I don't let the car warm up for a few minutes. I've taken it to my mechanic, and i've gone through 2 MAF sensors, cleaned the throttle body. I changed the iridium plugs at 102K and am on top of maintenance with filters, oil and such. Of course when I bring it to the mechanic, the problems don't show up, and we are kinda blind to what could be causing the issue. Also, if I park it for a day or two after the issue occurs, the problems go away. What to look for?
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I am fairly new to this stuff but I just got a 85 Ranger 4x4 and its running pretty rough it will be fine then all of a sudden it will bog right out and want to stall so I have to keep my foot planted on the gas and it pops and spudders and eventually runs normal again? Its a 2.8 V6 carb...
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My '96 K2500 w/7.4 is running rough.
I've replaced: cap, rotor, fuel pressure reg, injectors (Bosch Design 2's), plugs, wires.
Had it timed today and it still runs rough. Really rough sometimes. I'm getting no codes.
In the morning when the engine is cool, I'm going to pull the pugs and check them, and verify the plug wires are installed correctly.
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I have a 99 Dodge Stratus 4 cyl 2.4L, automatic.
It has been idling rough for a few months now. It feels just like it is misfiring. Tach confirms quick dip in rpm then return to normal idle. It has never actually stalled, just a quick rpm dip and subsequent shuddering, then recovers for a few seconds.
Also runs very rough, at 47-48 mph under light "cruising" load. Sounds crazy, but it does (did, see below) not happen at 45 or 50, just in the 47-48 mph range. Again, it feels like bad misfiring, with the car losing a lot of power and shuddering until I accelerate/decelerate away from this speed range.
NOW, over the last few days, the rough riding has gotten a lot worse, and occurs at all speeds. It is worse under load (mild acceleration, hills). Still feels like misfiring. Loss of power makes it hard to maintain speed up hills, at any speed. Also, today for the first time in its life the car backfired while trying to accelerate up a hill from a stop, at a speed of about 15 mph.
When idling, I can occasionally smell gas.
So, the coils are 2 years old, spark plug wires are 2 years old, spark plugs are 2 weeks old and air filter is 4 days old. Check engine light is NOT on and there are no error codes as of yesterday. Fluids are all good, except I am about the kick the stupid thing until it bleeds. Parts store suggested Idle Air Control Valve, but I am dubious, as this now happens at all speed.
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