Oldsmobile - Cutlassciera :: 1990 V6 Won't Go Until Warm It Up
Sep 26, 2011
Olds Cutlass Ciera, 1990, v-6 engineI warmed-up the engine for about 12 minutes this morning (after 8:30 a.m.), its maximum speed was 20 MPH at 30 RPM when I climbed up the hill to Agri Center from Bonita Lakes area on HW 19. I was afraid to exceed 30 RPM, so I stopped near the top of the hill for about a few minutes. After that, the road is down hill. The engine became vigorous and went beyond 60 MPH at 20 RPM.
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1996 / 2.2 L4 / 186k / Upper engine rebuild 30k ago
Car was driven on a errand by my mother. Upon trying to leave for home, the car started running very rough, and stalling. From the description she gave on the phone, it sounded like a plugged up exhaust. I told her to get some fresh gas and ease it home after.
When I checked the car for codes, I got 2. A P0300 and a P0122. Okay, so the throttle position switch has taken a dump, that's easy enough. The car has 186k miles, but my constant nannying usually soothes her, so surely that's all, right? God, I wish that turned out to be true.
I pulled the plugs, and #4 was gas fouled and sooty, #2 and #3 looked lean, and #1 was partially wet fouled. There was also gasoline in the oil. When the car would run, it would run the gambit from idling semi rough then stalling out and refusing to restart, almost like it was flooded, to idling scarily bad and no pedal response, to running too high of an idle and idle searching.
Since I have:
Replaced the TPS
Replaced the IAC
Replaced the CTS
Replaced the MAP
Replaced the ICM
Replaced the FPR
Replaced both ignition coils
Replaced plugs and wires
Replaced the fuel injectors
Replaced the PCV
Replaced the fuel filter
Checked the pintle on the EGR (looked good, cleaned)
Checked for Vacuum leaks (as best I could)
Checked the Fuel pressure (40 PSI) (drops to 20 after shutoff)
Checked for exhaust restriction (ran open exhaust manifold)
That brings us to today. New injectors just in, and the engine will run, but rough and loud. It almost sounds like the firing order is off slightly (I am using 1342 or from L to R 4132) and throttle control is almost non existent. It also shuts off when its warm almost like its flooded. No codes are showing. (despite discovering a sensor in back being unplugged and the O2 sensor being unplugged at times).
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I have a 1985 Cutlass Ciera Brougham with a 2.5L four. Got in it one day and when I turned the key nothing happened except the dash lights came on. No clicking or buzzing, no engine turning over, nothing... Pulled the starter and had it tested, it passed. Then again it is only about a year old. I then jumped the poles on the starter and the engine came to life. Replaced the ignition switch ( the electrical part ) still have the same problem. Turn the key and nothing happens except the dash lights.
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The 93 Cutlass Ciera 3.3 6 cyl. is hard to start..takes like 3 tries to start it...even after changing..oxygen sensor, MAF sensor, coil pack, fuel filter, air filter, good plug wires, crank position sensor, fuel pump, sending unit....if idling low will stall sometimes. Mechanic said it's slow getting spark up just when starting it..not sure why..
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I have owned this 1989 Cutlas Ciera for nine months. I bought it for commuting, because my truck is a gas guzzler. Two weeks ago, the Ciera began tick tick ticking. It sounded like it was coming from the lifters. I tried the easy fix first, a little auto elixir, which I have never had much faith in, but figured I would try. I put half a bottle of Sea Foam in the oil. The exhaust smoked white for a few minutes and over the next 20 or so miles the ticking quieted some. 100 miles later, the oil was very dirty, and seemed thinned, so I changed the oil.
And, being that I had just topped off the tank, I added the remaining Sea Foam to the fuel, as the bottle informed me could clean fuel injectors. When I next started the Ciera, the lifter tick seemed louder, white smoke poured out of the exhaust and does not seem like it will stop smoking, and the car now stalls in gear. I'm not sure where to start: head gasket, adjust lifters, cam timing belt, could some of these symptoms be caused by the Sea Foam? It may be more economical to junk this car if repairs are costly, but I may be able to do the work myself if parts are responsible and repairs are only moderately difficult.
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I have a 94 Oldsmobile Cutlass Ciera, (3.1L V6 GM3100 engine). When I start the engine it idles very rough and usually stalls if I put it in gear. Eventually once it warms up I can drive it, but when I do drive it's extremely sluggish on accelerations and acts like its about to die. At constant speeds it runs mostly ok. We figured it was a vacuum leak, but we've tried every test we can think of to find it and talked to a couple mechanics and tried their tests and it passed all of them. Supposing it isn't a vacuum leak, then what it might be?
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I have a 90 Cutlass Cruiser SL and it is shifting real hard going down to first. Other gears are fine. Checked motor mounts, ok. Also stutters at higher speeds in OD but when I kick it down to drive it quits. She has a lot of miles but I can't afford a new car.
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I have been having an on going issue with my 1990 Oldsmobile. It will randomly stall while I am driving. It has happened while driving at speeds ranging from 25 to 50 mph. It always happens while I am driving, not while I am stopped. First I will feel the engine buck, and then the check engine light comes on. After this, I have about 10 seconds until the car completely stalls out and I have to pull over and attempt to restart. Sometimes it will restart immediately, other times it takes a few minutes. Sometimes when it restarts, the engine will "roar" as if I were pushing the gas down while in park.
Sometimes when I get it to restart, I can continue driving and it will not happen again, but other times it will happen continuously. This has been going on for about 6 months. I have brought it to the shop several times. My mechanic had to drive it around for awhile before it would occur again and he could understand what was going on. I have had the thermostat, alternator, and throttle replaced. After getting all this work done, the problem did not occur for several months...until today.
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Module or cam/crank sensors most likely? How difficult are the sensors to replace if module doesn't fix problem? 120 k mileage.
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A friend has a '90 olds Ciera with the 3800 engine. The engine will quit running at a stoplight or almost any idle speed and then will be hard to start. May have to wait a few minutes before it restarts.
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I have a 90 celica. I start it up and it idles fast until it warms up. then it runs great until i turn it off. then it will not restart! i went to the gas pump. it would not start after i pumped gas. it turns over but wont start. the next day it starts up fine. it does this all of the time. when it wont start there is no spark coming from the coil except when you let up on the keyl it sparks once.
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1990 Celica 2.2 liter, 5SFE manual trans car with 239k miles.The car occasionally stalls after it is warm and won't restart. When is is cold she fires right up as it does most of the time when she is warm. To restart he sprays starter fluid in the intake or waits until it cools down. Also as the car gets warm the idle decreases to around 650. Adjusted idle speed to 750 but no effect. The only code is 1-2, low or no RPM, measured the RPM sensor air gap and within spec, measured the sensor resistance and within spec. sensor wiring and connector looked good, measured the temp sensor and within spec, disconnected the EGR vacuum line and no effect. Problem occurs once or twice a week but at the most embarrassing place.
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1990 Maxima. The car hesitates/surges occassionally after warm start, but only surges for about first 1/4 mile, then its OK. Sometimes it idles low, especially when I come to a stop and apply brakes hard. I believe the two issues are related. This has been getting progressively worse over past few years.
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My husband bought this car 12 days ago. Had NTB check it out and they said we were good to go.
This afternoon, out of nowhere the car started getting usually hot, even though is was almost freezing outside. (Pic of temp below)
I pulled over and let the car idle for about 10 minutes. It cooled down by an amount so small its not even worth noting. I decided to try to make it home. As I drove it started to drop in temp... The car started sputtering as I slowed down at a red light. It started to shake. Then it cut off. I think I made this worse because I keep stepping on the gas hoping to get it back on. It did but it shook worse and anything close to 20 mph made it shut off again. It did this a total of 4 times before I made it home. Each time I stepped on the gas repeatedly to get it going again.
Once home I popped the hood and the pictures below are what I saw. Its in what I believe to be the radiator overflow. I checked the oil, and I do not see it there. I got down on the ground and looked for other leaks but all I see is the gunky stuff. The consistency is light very watery caramel. There was like smoke coming from the engine and it looks wet (included below).
Called my local repair shop and they are quoting me 3 grand. They said I need to replace the engine. My husband can't get to the car for another week and it is our only vehicle.
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97 olds lss traction control kicks in quite often. turn it off and it doesn't have the problem.
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2003 Olds Silhouette. ABS light comes on again. How do I clean the sensor and where would it be located? I guess near the break system by the wheels. Worse case, I can just simply remove the ABS fuse but this will lid up ABS light and my wife she does not like it. Is there a way to disable ABS and kill the light too? without taking the dashboard off.
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Car started fine yesterday. Went down to about 20 last night. New battery last summer. New starter April of 2010.
Car clicked once this morning and no turnover at start. Accessories worked OK. Battery checked OK. Cleaned the battery terminals even though they looked fine. Charged for 15 minutes. Still clicked once and no turnover. Jiggled the neg lines that run to the front fender and charged 15 more mins. Started. Went ahead and disassembled that terminal and cleaned the oxidation off the four wire terminals connected there. Is it possible to get one click and no turnover when those negative lines to the fender are not making good contact? Or, is it most likely something else?
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my 1992 olds 98 low beams do not work. However they high beams do along with the parking lights. I used a test light and am getting no electricity at the light socket. Bulbs are good. I check all fuses under the dash not a bad one. What this is or the next step?
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how hard is it to install a bcm in a 01 Oldsmobile Intrigue, and what all will it take care of in a car? I know its a sm computer that does alot of operations for a car,but would that cover everything with the security light on??
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I've never had a car act like this before. It cuts out for a tenth of a second, and then comes right back. I drove it 20 miles yesterday. It seemed to do it more before the engine reached operating temperature, like once every quarter mile. Once on the interstate, it went down to once a mile, then once in three miles, but it never completely quit doing it. I tried jiggling the keys in the switch. It made no difference. It did not make a difference whether or not I was going up or down hill or on level ground. I had the cruise set for 65, and it held that speed well. I'd think if it were a fuel filter or pump issue it would sputter constantly. This is just a sudden hiccup, then right back to running perfectly.
3.8 L V-6, 126K miles.
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My 02 Alero will start, but when I went to put it into reverse it looked into neutral and wont come out. I can move the gear shift but it won't come out of gear.
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