Oldsmobile - Cutlassciera :: 1985 - Engine Not Turning Over / Dash Lights Came On
Jan 11, 2013
I have a 1985 Cutlass Ciera Brougham with a 2.5L four. Got in it one day and when I turned the key nothing happened except the dash lights came on. No clicking or buzzing, no engine turning over, nothing... Pulled the starter and had it tested, it passed. Then again it is only about a year old. I then jumped the poles on the starter and the engine came to life. Replaced the ignition switch ( the electrical part ) still have the same problem. Turn the key and nothing happens except the dash lights.
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I have a 94 Oldsmobile Cutlass Ciera, (3.1L V6 GM3100 engine). When I start the engine it idles very rough and usually stalls if I put it in gear. Eventually once it warms up I can drive it, but when I do drive it's extremely sluggish on accelerations and acts like its about to die. At constant speeds it runs mostly ok. We figured it was a vacuum leak, but we've tried every test we can think of to find it and talked to a couple mechanics and tried their tests and it passed all of them. Supposing it isn't a vacuum leak, then what it might be?
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Olds Cutlass Ciera, 1990, v-6 engineI warmed-up the engine for about 12 minutes this morning (after 8:30 a.m.), its maximum speed was 20 MPH at 30 RPM when I climbed up the hill to Agri Center from Bonita Lakes area on HW 19. I was afraid to exceed 30 RPM, so I stopped near the top of the hill for about a few minutes. After that, the road is down hill. The engine became vigorous and went beyond 60 MPH at 20 RPM.
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1996 / 2.2 L4 / 186k / Upper engine rebuild 30k ago
Car was driven on a errand by my mother. Upon trying to leave for home, the car started running very rough, and stalling. From the description she gave on the phone, it sounded like a plugged up exhaust. I told her to get some fresh gas and ease it home after.
When I checked the car for codes, I got 2. A P0300 and a P0122. Okay, so the throttle position switch has taken a dump, that's easy enough. The car has 186k miles, but my constant nannying usually soothes her, so surely that's all, right? God, I wish that turned out to be true.
I pulled the plugs, and #4 was gas fouled and sooty, #2 and #3 looked lean, and #1 was partially wet fouled. There was also gasoline in the oil. When the car would run, it would run the gambit from idling semi rough then stalling out and refusing to restart, almost like it was flooded, to idling scarily bad and no pedal response, to running too high of an idle and idle searching.
Since I have:
Replaced the TPS
Replaced the IAC
Replaced the CTS
Replaced the MAP
Replaced the ICM
Replaced the FPR
Replaced both ignition coils
Replaced plugs and wires
Replaced the fuel injectors
Replaced the PCV
Replaced the fuel filter
Checked the pintle on the EGR (looked good, cleaned)
Checked for Vacuum leaks (as best I could)
Checked the Fuel pressure (40 PSI) (drops to 20 after shutoff)
Checked for exhaust restriction (ran open exhaust manifold)
That brings us to today. New injectors just in, and the engine will run, but rough and loud. It almost sounds like the firing order is off slightly (I am using 1342 or from L to R 4132) and throttle control is almost non existent. It also shuts off when its warm almost like its flooded. No codes are showing. (despite discovering a sensor in back being unplugged and the O2 sensor being unplugged at times).
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The 93 Cutlass Ciera 3.3 6 cyl. is hard to start..takes like 3 tries to start it...even after changing..oxygen sensor, MAF sensor, coil pack, fuel filter, air filter, good plug wires, crank position sensor, fuel pump, sending unit....if idling low will stall sometimes. Mechanic said it's slow getting spark up just when starting it..not sure why..
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I have owned this 1989 Cutlas Ciera for nine months. I bought it for commuting, because my truck is a gas guzzler. Two weeks ago, the Ciera began tick tick ticking. It sounded like it was coming from the lifters. I tried the easy fix first, a little auto elixir, which I have never had much faith in, but figured I would try. I put half a bottle of Sea Foam in the oil. The exhaust smoked white for a few minutes and over the next 20 or so miles the ticking quieted some. 100 miles later, the oil was very dirty, and seemed thinned, so I changed the oil.
And, being that I had just topped off the tank, I added the remaining Sea Foam to the fuel, as the bottle informed me could clean fuel injectors. When I next started the Ciera, the lifter tick seemed louder, white smoke poured out of the exhaust and does not seem like it will stop smoking, and the car now stalls in gear. I'm not sure where to start: head gasket, adjust lifters, cam timing belt, could some of these symptoms be caused by the Sea Foam? It may be more economical to junk this car if repairs are costly, but I may be able to do the work myself if parts are responsible and repairs are only moderately difficult.
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My 1985 Ford F-150 6 cyl. manual with overdrive would not start when I turned on the key, moved moved the key to start... It suddenly did nothing and all the dash light went out. I assumed the battery was run down and then tried to start it with my 2010 Ford car.
It still would not start and all dash lights went out. I then put my battery charger on the battery and charged fully charged the battery. I then turned the key off and back on and the dash light went on, tried to start again and the same thing happened. After about 10/15 minutes, I tried again and still did not start. I waited another few minutes, turned the key on and jumped from the battery positive to the starter cable after the starter solenoid and the engine started.
I ran it for a few minutes, and the backed it into the garage. The next day I again tried to start it and again, there was no power to the vehicle... no headlights, brake lights, dash light...nothing. I assumed the starter solenoid was burned out and replaced it. Still did the same thing. I replaced the fusible link on a yellow wire attached to the battery side of the starter solenoid. Still no power.
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I have a 1985 Cutlass Ciera Brougham with the 2.5L four cylinder. It was driving and running great, and then one day it would not start. At first I thought that it might be the battery. I put my jump battery on and still nothing. I checked the battery voltage and it was good. Then I thought that it might be the starter. I crawled under the car and pulled the starter out. I took it to the store where I bought it just a year ago and had it tested, it passed. When the key is turned on all of the lights on the dash light up and the only sound that is heard is the fuel relay clicking on. The starter does not spin, click, hum, engage or make any indication that it is getting power. I put a wrench to the harmonic balancer bolt and I am able to spin the engine freely, so the engine is not seized. When the poles on the starter are jumped via a screwdriver the engine will crank, but will not start. Could a neutral safety switch or ignition switch that has gone bad cause such symptoms?
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Is there any way to turn the dash lights completely out? I do a lot of night driving and would like to have complete darkness in the cabin. I'm able to do this in my pickup and find that I'm able to see deer, and other critters much easier without dash lights. Yes, it's important to see my speed, but most of my miles are cruise control. I also have an iPhone app that provides a brightness adjustable heads up display.
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I have a 2002 Ford Explorer. For about the last year some of the dash lights have been turning on and off randomly and intermittently. The three lights are the check engine, the airbag and less frequently, the check gauge light. It seems like there's some connection between the lights because often when one comes on so does another and often one will turn off, but immediately another will turn on. My mechanic (not a Ford dealer) tried to fix the check engine light by diagnosing and fixing the indicated codes, but a day later the light came back on. It stayed on for a week, then one morning it stayed off, but the airbag light came on. Is there some electronic (or other) component that links these three lights and could be causing this situation?
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Is there a way to turn all interior lights on the dash off when the headlights are off?
It is so bright that you can't see in the dark with everything off without being blinded.
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I replaced the 12v starter battery about 8 months or 30,000 miles back. The problem is that It was running fine, and I put the key into it to start and pushed the start button the dash lights would not turn on, the center console lights and instruments work, but the main dash fuel, speedometer lights are out. The car seems to run ok and the main battery bank is fully charged for now.
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I've been having a problem which i cant seem to find the fix for. My ABS and ECS dash light keep turning on. Its intermittent and does not stay on. Ive noticed that it usually happens if I travel at highway speeds for more than 15miles. I had the brakes x4 changed 1 year ago and all brake pads show good life. Brake fluid is at a good level with no leaks to be seen. I am wondering if its one of the sensors? How can one check for that? I have a 2006 3.3l GLS with 86k.
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After I turn left from a stop my 2002 Alero pulls hard to the left for a while. Then after a while the car tracks straight. The same happens when I turn right from a stop; the car pulls to the right for a short time - then tracks straight. I checked the tie rods - they are tight.
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My 2001 Oldsmobile Alero only starts about 50% of the time and has also turned off twice when I was driving, once in a parking lot and once when I was stopped at an intersection. It cranks and the radio and lights work. The fuel pump was replaced two years ago and sometimes you can hear the pump turn on and sometimes you can't. My husband replaced the fuel pressure regulator and has switched out the fuel pump relay but it hasn't fixed the problem. Based on this, can you tell whether the fuel pump might need to be replaced again or whether it could be something else connected to the fuel pump, or something else entirely? The fuel pump is under warranty at the dealership that replaced it, but unless the fuel pump is bad then I don't want to go back to this dealership and would rather go to different repair shop.
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2.2l '03 Olds Alero, 89k miles
My car has an unsettling noise. It is a loud clunk in the front end that can be felt. It only happens when turning right (just past where the wheels are aligned) when going forward. I believe it also happens when backing out of a spot to the left. It is only one solid clunk. This clunk isn't always loud, and can be subtle. If I do a figure eight, the clunk will be the loudest with the first wheel turn to the right, then will either get quieter or disappear all together. Let the car sit for a while, and the first turn will be the loudest.
Things that have been tried:Full Strut/shock assembly replacement on both sides of the front suspension.Sway bar link replacement on both sides.Both front control arms, complete with ball joints and bushings have been replaced.
Possibilities I haven't changed or on the list to examine/replace:
-Sway bar bushings
-Wheel bearings
-CV Joints
-Engine mounts
-Tie rod ends
What should I be looking at first? Is there something I am missing? It's been to the mechanics a few times. For a week after the control arms and sway bar links were replaced it was ok, or dull enough not to hear. Now it's back as loud as before.
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I have a 2001 Oldsmobile Silhouette that started to overheat yesterday. Was on the red, and the red light on the dash had just turned on. I pulled off to the side of the road, turned the car off and let it sit a few minutes. Turned it back on, and drove further than the first time to get a scheduled oil change and no more overheating problems for that drive. Had them check my radiator fluid and they said it was fine. Car sat the rest of the day, and went out in the evening - car started to overheat, (past 3/4) and I started revving it, and it cooled off on it's own, and remained cool the rest of the evening. This morning, it's doing the same thing again. Begins to over heat, so I turned it off. Turn it back on, and it's fine. Had new head gaskets put in, in 2009 at about 90,000 but aside from that and some wheel work, that's all I know that's been an issue since I purchased it in 2006.
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Got an '02 here. This noise started to appear recently. When I turn the key to put electricity on (without starting the car), I hear this electric motor-like sound, similar to power window sound, coming thru the dash area, and it can also be heard outside the car coming from somewhere in or near the engine compartment or in front of the dash/windshield area. Could this be one of the servo that operates the AC vents? or its something else?
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My son has a 1985 Nissan 300 ZX. The car has practically been rebuilt. Several mornings a week the car is dead. We have replaced many major car parts over the past 2 years like the ignition switch, alternator, battery, clutch, rotars, brakes and breaks. We even pulled the fuse to the security light as that was drawing many amps when the car was off thinking that was what was causing the dead battery.
If I had not seen this with my own eyes I would not believe it. The car will be parked, shut off for hours and the tail lights mysteriously turn on. The headlights are not coming on, just the tail lights They just slowly come on. We have witnessed this 3 times and have no clue what the problem could be. We walk over and turn the lights on then fully then off. However, the lights are in an off position to begin with.
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85 ford ranger 2.3 efi .. My brake lights still aren't coming on. According to the Haynes manual, the wire that runs from the stop light fuse goes from there to the hazard flasher and then to the brake light switch. Since I have checked everything else, is it possible that the hazards are causing a break in the connection?
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So I did alot of electrical work on this truck but never had any problems with the brake lights, now they dont work and the fuse blows every time you pop one in.
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