I been working on this car for several weeks now. I have change,
1. The starter.
2. New Battery, New Plugs, New Crankshaft sensor.
I even change the belt tensioner because is was going bad (Broken). In fact I can hear the full pump running. After doing all this the car still not turn on. there is full in the full injector.
1996 olds 88lss. My EGR valve melted and allowed coolant in my air intake. I replaced the plastic upper intake manifold and egr valve and its spacer sleeve. Put everything back together and engine won't start now. I have compression, spark, and fuel. Replaced ignition module and crank position sensor and still no combustion. Plugs, wires, ignition module, compression, fuel pressure, injector resistance, crank position sensor, new battery.
View 1 RepliesMy car won't stay running. We've replaced the spark plugs, the air and fuel filter, the idle air control and beat on the catalytic converter (I know it's bad but it did make a difference).
View 4 RepliesI have a 1985 Cutlass Ciera Brougham with the 2.5L four cylinder. It was driving and running great, and then one day it would not start. At first I thought that it might be the battery. I put my jump battery on and still nothing. I checked the battery voltage and it was good. Then I thought that it might be the starter. I crawled under the car and pulled the starter out. I took it to the store where I bought it just a year ago and had it tested, it passed. When the key is turned on all of the lights on the dash light up and the only sound that is heard is the fuel relay clicking on. The starter does not spin, click, hum, engage or make any indication that it is getting power. I put a wrench to the harmonic balancer bolt and I am able to spin the engine freely, so the engine is not seized. When the poles on the starter are jumped via a screwdriver the engine will crank, but will not start. Could a neutral safety switch or ignition switch that has gone bad cause such symptoms?
View 11 RepliesA friend has a '90 olds Ciera with the 3800 engine. The engine will quit running at a stoplight or almost any idle speed and then will be hard to start. May have to wait a few minutes before it restarts.
View 1 RepliesA few days ago my 98 Cutlass had to be towed because of a broken brake line. It was towed 35 miles to my mechanic. Two fuel lines needed to be replaces and i guess it was a real problem getting to stuff to fix. When I picked the car up tonight I noticed that the fuel gauge didn't work right. When the key is off the needle points straight down toward the floor. when I turn on the ignition, the needle moves up and pins itself against the little metal pin below the "E" and can't go any higher. The only cause I can think of is that the needle bounced over the pin while it was being towed and when I turn on the ignition it tries to move to where it is supposed to but is stopped by the pin. The only way I can think of to fix this is to turn the car upside down and rotate it counterclockwise until the needle moves back over the pin.
View 3 RepliesI have a 1992 Olds Cutlass Ciera S. Just fixed it running with a tuneup, but now I noticed that when I turn the steering wheel slightly left at all, I get a sort of small roar and it may just be me but the car seems tense. It feels and sounds like a bad power steering pump, but it turns right fine, no noise or anything. I do not think it's a wheel bearing. Could this car have rack and pinion steering and that is going bad?
View 1 RepliesI have a 1996 Lumina 3.1. For the last few years, every now and then I would turn on the key, all electrical systems, lights, windows, radio, etc. would work but it wouldn't turn over. If I waited about 4 minutes it would start perfectly and it wouldn't happen again for up to a month. Last week it did it and after I waited and tried it again it turned over once then everything went dead. A mechanic (friend) installed a new battery and it started. He took it to his shop and installed a new computer. Everything read fine, but now when you turn on the key it will turn over fine but not start. Leave the key on and wait about 2 minutes till you hear the fuel pump start and the engine will start fine. If you stop for a few minutes it will start but if you stop for more than 5 or 10 minutes you have to wait for the fuel pump to come on again.
View 7 RepliesIntermittent fuel pump problems in '96 Dodge ram resulted in new fuel pump 50,000 miles ago. Happened again 100 miles ago, so another new fuel pump. Now to start car must turn the ignition on several times before going to the start position. It appears the latest new pump may have defective one way check valve, so the pressure is depleting after turn off. Any favorite brand of fuel pump for the Dodge "pump in the gas tank" arrangement? Or solutions such as installing an external pump to do the work of pumping the fuel?
View 1 Replies1996 / 2.2 L4 / 186k / Upper engine rebuild 30k ago
Car was driven on a errand by my mother. Upon trying to leave for home, the car started running very rough, and stalling. From the description she gave on the phone, it sounded like a plugged up exhaust. I told her to get some fresh gas and ease it home after.
When I checked the car for codes, I got 2. A P0300 and a P0122. Okay, so the throttle position switch has taken a dump, that's easy enough. The car has 186k miles, but my constant nannying usually soothes her, so surely that's all, right? God, I wish that turned out to be true.
I pulled the plugs, and #4 was gas fouled and sooty, #2 and #3 looked lean, and #1 was partially wet fouled. There was also gasoline in the oil. When the car would run, it would run the gambit from idling semi rough then stalling out and refusing to restart, almost like it was flooded, to idling scarily bad and no pedal response, to running too high of an idle and idle searching.
Since I have:
Replaced the TPS
Replaced the IAC
Replaced the CTS
Replaced the MAP
Replaced the ICM
Replaced the FPR
Replaced both ignition coils
Replaced plugs and wires
Replaced the fuel injectors
Replaced the PCV
Replaced the fuel filter
Checked the pintle on the EGR (looked good, cleaned)
Checked for Vacuum leaks (as best I could)
Checked the Fuel pressure (40 PSI) (drops to 20 after shutoff)
Checked for exhaust restriction (ran open exhaust manifold)
That brings us to today. New injectors just in, and the engine will run, but rough and loud. It almost sounds like the firing order is off slightly (I am using 1342 or from L to R 4132) and throttle control is almost non existent. It also shuts off when its warm almost like its flooded. No codes are showing. (despite discovering a sensor in back being unplugged and the O2 sensor being unplugged at times).
My 2001 Oldsmobile Alero only starts about 50% of the time and has also turned off twice when I was driving, once in a parking lot and once when I was stopped at an intersection. It cranks and the radio and lights work. The fuel pump was replaced two years ago and sometimes you can hear the pump turn on and sometimes you can't. My husband replaced the fuel pressure regulator and has switched out the fuel pump relay but it hasn't fixed the problem. Based on this, can you tell whether the fuel pump might need to be replaced again or whether it could be something else connected to the fuel pump, or something else entirely? The fuel pump is under warranty at the dealership that replaced it, but unless the fuel pump is bad then I don't want to go back to this dealership and would rather go to different repair shop.
View 1 Replies99 olds cutlass, this morning I drove it and the coolant low light came on. Stopped at autozone, grabbed some coolant and tossed some in. Kept driving, light was intermittently on and off. Drove it to work and around noon filled it pretty full with coolant. Drove away at 5pm, no puddle underneath the car. Stopped to get gas, didn't notice any puddle but didn't look closely. Drove it home, parked it, went to get the mail, came back, pretty impressive puddle of coolant leaking from under the car.
View 3 RepliesMy wife and I have a 1986 Cutlass Ciera with an engine size 4 -151, 2.5L engine with 41,749 original miles. Right after the transmission shifts at around 30-35 mph it locks up (for a lack of a better word.) This lock up can continue to about 40 mph. It feels like it 'misses or hesitates' until I let off the gas and increase speed again by going faster than 40 mph.
The GM service department said there was a recall sometime ago to solve this problem but the fix was only for the larger 4 liter engine and to use this fix would damage the cars engine. They said it was not a transmission problem and that we will probably have to 'live' with this condition which is more a nusiance then anything else. They go on to say this condition will not harm the engine. Are they right with their answer or can something actually be done to fix this problem? Other than this the car runs great. It has been tuned up, all belts and hoses replaced, new thermostat, etc.
Also, when we turn on the ignition, the engine would race at 2,000 rpm until we let it warm up and then put it in gear at 1000 rpm. A new thermostat keep the idle from going so fast when we start the car. Is the fast idle normal for this age of a car or could something be done for this also.
My wife's car is making a odd sound. I think it may be the timing belt. Her car is a 1999 Olds Cutlass v6 and I don't know if it has ever had its timing belt replaced. I can't tell from her records. So what kind of a timing belt does this vehicle have? How many miles before it should be replaced? The last question is, if she keeps on driving it, what it the worst thing that can happen?
View 8 RepliesHow do I replace the computer in the 93 cutlass ciera, 3.3 engine 6 cylinder,.I see the computer is behind the glove box..but a very tight spot.
View 5 RepliesI have a 1992 Oldsmobile Cutlass Ciera 6 cyl.The car starts up and runs with no problem. However every two to three weeks while I'm driving the motor will just die on me. It doesn't matter where I am or the speed I'm driving it will stall. It takes about a minute and the car starts again, but I need to get this fixed!! My mechanic says it isn't the fuel pump, fuel filter or the crank sensor. He is a good mechanic too.
View 6 Repliesi have 1992 v6 olds cutlass ciera. it likes to spit and sputter sometimes. no matter if it's hot or cold, up a hill or on flat, slow or stop?
View 3 RepliesI have a 1992 Oldsmobile Cutlass Ciera 6 cyl. This car just all of a sudden started shuttering and not wanting to take off. It will if I floor it but will still shutter a little?
View 10 RepliesWhat is the computer location on the 93 cutlass Ciera S 3.3 6 cylinder?
View 6 RepliesI have a 64 Olds Cutlass. I drive it once a week or so. That means it sits most of the time. Lately it's been very damp and rainy. I've noticed that when I start the Olds up there is white smoke coming from the exhaust. This lasts about a minute or until the car warms up and I start driving. Then it disappears. Is this just condensation burning off or, I hope not, a blown head gasket? How can I tell the difference?
View 2 RepliesI have a 1967 Cutlass. She ran great yesterday. Today she won't start. I have spark coming out of the coil but no spark going to the plugs. Plugs and plug wires test good as well.
View 8 Replies