Recently have developed a strong gas smell in my 2002 Olds Bravada. I have checked around getting no where fast I have been told the culprit maybe the fuel pressure regulator but with the engine running and I am under the hood. There is no odor there is no odor outside the vehicle at all only inside...
View 16 RepliesI have a 02 bravada that will not start, or even attempt to turn over. The battery is new, all the interior light are on, headlights work and radio is fine. When turning the key there's nothing though??? What could be causing this???
View 8 Repliessears says my emmision won't pass because my check engine light will not come on when starting engine but it does go on when you only turn to the on position
View 2 RepliesI've been commuting roughly 100 miles round trip daily for work for the past month or so and other than the need for an oil change (I'm at about 6,000 since the last one, current mileage is 171900), my 98 Bravada has been fine. However, this evening when I was about half-way home, I noticed the car was getting a little resistance on accelerating.
I had wondered if it was the wind and rain I was driving through, but the tachometer was jumping regularly, it was in the lower ranges (between 1-2, maybe a jump to 3). I was still able to maintain speed (up to 60mph, and a struggle to get to 65 - somewhat unusual) - however there was noticeable resistance to acceleration. Once I got home I noticed that the temp gauge was showing less than 150 and the oil was fluctuating between 1/4 and 1/2.
I have a 2000 oldsmobile bravada. When I'm driving i press the gas and it does not accelerate. The engine revs but it does not go. Then it will engage and will drive fine. What the problem is?
View 1 RepliesI drive a 2000 Oldsmobile Bravada. I just changed the outer tie-rod (passenger side),and there is still a fairly good shake coming from the front end. I have checked everything that comes to mind (true, not too sound a mind). My question is, how would i check the steering gear box?
View 2 RepliesWhen driving down the road, usually at speeds greater than 55 mph and usually in hotter weather, the vehicle will just shut off. Temp gauge stays firmly in the normal range, coolant level is fine. The vehicle will eventually restart after 5-20 minutes before repeating it's little 'siesta mode'.(It turns over, just won't start) I've been all over the internet and can find dozens upon dozens of identical problems in 1998-2002 Bravada, BUT NEVER A SOLUTION! There are suggestions from wiring shorts to fuel pump to the temperature sensor to PCM - but nobody has the courtesy to get back online and post if they ever found what the actual problem was. I can only surmise that either people just don't feel like posting the solution, or they are still trying to figure it out (which doesn't bode well for me).
View 3 RepliesI have a 1997 Olds Bravada with 170K miles. Engine was running fantastic up until three weeks ago. Suddenly engine is "bogging" down and transmission is shifting between gears at certain speeds (like it can't decide---usually around 40mph). Replaced catalytic converter because mechanic said it was plugging. Now engine seems even worse---it feels like it is working really hard, like the brakes are stuck on or like it is pulling a really heavy load. Gas mileage is worse. Trans is still not shifting right...at 40 and 50 mph it can't "decide" what gear to be in and switches back and forth, and at higher speeds it has slight hesitations, like it's "missing" or not getting fuel for a split second. Mechanic said it needs a tune up.
Background: Replaced transmission one year ago with remanufactured trans (could all-wheel drive be stuck "on"?). Replaced catalytic converter. Also just had A/C recharged and began using it about one week before these troubles began. I have stopped using the A/C in case it was related, but the problems have continued.
99 Bravada 4.3L. Key rotates to start but the starter does not turn. I can remove the starter relay and jump it and it starts right up, swapped relay with another one and same thing. Car has an aftermarket remote starter that does NOT cut any wires, only ties into them. The remote starter is seeing the starter voltage from the key, but no signal is making it to the relay under the hood. The relay has 12v+, a ground, the starter post, and the post from the key, nothing happens with a test light with the other end grounded or connected to 12v+.
Second problem happened at the same time, maybe related. The floor shifter will not move when I step on the brake with the key 'on or off'. I removed the boot and move the little white lever and it will shift, but not like it should. All fuses are good both under the hood and inside and it.
We pulled out of the parking garage going up the hill it acting like i was in neutral all of a sudden. it was running fine but i was coasting backwards. After checking the tranny fluid it was mostly gone so as my wife and kid sat in the still running car I went for fluid. I put in in and then drove up that hill went around the corner and it did it again. Then i got towed home. When its cold it works when I drive a little this happens. Its on all gears and no matter how much gas I give it there is no attempt at shifting and no weird noises.
View 14 Replies1997 Olds. Bravada. 4.3L original engine. 217000 miles, maintained well (routine oil changes, fluid checks, etc)
Intermittent stalls. When stalling, voltage found to drop to 0 even though radio, headlights, and dash lights remain functional. Engine will sometimes "automatically" return to running (it doesn't turn over, just runs) and the air bag light flashes, other times it needs to be restarted. No problem restarting, but may or may not stall a few seconds later. No specific action triggers the events. On a potential side note, the rear wiper motor will spontaneously start running occasionally (once per week frequency typical).
Attempted fix: cleaned both battery contacts, removed and cleaned frame ground, removed and cleaned body ground, all done with either sand paper and/or a wire brush
Sometimes my Bravada won't start. It cranks good (new battery) and I can hear the fuel pump , but it doesn't fire up. I just got it back from the repair shop.?
View 4 RepliesI just got some work done on my Camry (CEL P0440 and P0446). The lights have been taken care of after the Charcoal Canister and hoses above the gas tank were replaced. Since then, I've noticed that I'm getting a gas smell in the cabin when the AC is turned on and when I turn the AC off and roll the windows down. No CEL is on, and I was able to pass emissions.
View 9 RepliesMy C.E.L. (check engine light) flashes whenever the rpms are over 2000. I had it plugged in and the code was for "random cylinder misfire" all this was after I changed plugs, wires, rotor and dist.cap. What is going on? Its a 2000 olds bravada.
View 3 RepliesI have a 2002 Oldsmobile Silhouette which has been a great car, but due to its age has had some issues in the past year. The most recent is that it does not start well. When I turn the key, it chugs but I have to push the gas to get it to start and then there is a very strong fuel smell. We had it "tuned up" recently, but that did not work ( in fact the starting has gotten worse).
View 1 RepliesCar Details: 2004 Olds Alero GL, 250K miles, well maintained.
Our car recently started shuddering/vibrating at speeds over 45mph. Once the shudder begins, it continues for the remainder of the drive. It doesn't feel like it's in the wheels or the steering column, and there are no warning lights on the dash. It seems to be more intense when braking, as if something were fighting the inertia of the vehicle. There's no difference in the sensation when driving around corners.
After a few minutes of driving, there seems to be a burning rubber smell that is concentrated near the windshield in front of the driver's seat. I suspect that something is damaging a hose with heat or friction. I'll be taking it in to a mechanic.
I just got my 2000 Passat back from the body shop. I rear-ended an SUV about a month ago and had my hood, front bumper, left headlight, A/C compressor, and radiator replaced.
HOWEVER, now when I let 'fresh air' into the cabin, I smell a strong exhaust smell. When I push the 'recycle air' button, the smell goes away. This leads me to think that somehow my exhaust pipe was cracked/damaged in the collision and is now spewing exhaust gas into the engine compartment - and thus when I allow fresh air (front the engine compartment) into the cabin...I am getting toxic exhaust blown in my face!
Where should I look for signs of an exhaust leak and is there an easy 'trick' to find the leak?
My fiance's car just got the dreaded oil smell in the cabin. Now I would like to start with swapping the PCV valve, but I can not find a source to buy it online. What other trouble scenarios could I be looking at? The car: 2001 V6 4mo Wagon, 110000 miles.
View 6 RepliesHow do you fix the musty smell from the cabin airbox when it is always on recirculate and must be wet inside? I have a 2011 Camry.
View 6 RepliesProblem we experienced today with our 06 Prius - 63k miles. Up to this point, the car has been completely trouble-free. Abruptly, there was an extremely strong, foul electric-like smell throughout the cabin. No sudden acceleration, not pulling any heavy loads, no out of the ordinary driving. The weather was in the low 60s today. No a/c or heat being used at the time. The smell persists or becomes even stronger after the car sits turned off for several hours. the battery vent was not blocked, but the smell does appear to be stronger at the vent. The smell is so strong that we can't tolerate sitting in the car.
View 9 RepliesVW can't figure out why there is a gas smell inside the cabin after start up. My Tiguan has been in the shop going on 4 times now. All seals have been checked and fuel pump replaced.
View 1 Replies