Oldsmobile - Bravada :: 1998 - Hesitate On Accelerating?
Oct 20, 2011
I've been commuting roughly 100 miles round trip daily for work for the past month or so and other than the need for an oil change (I'm at about 6,000 since the last one, current mileage is 171900), my 98 Bravada has been fine. However, this evening when I was about half-way home, I noticed the car was getting a little resistance on accelerating.
I had wondered if it was the wind and rain I was driving through, but the tachometer was jumping regularly, it was in the lower ranges (between 1-2, maybe a jump to 3). I was still able to maintain speed (up to 60mph, and a struggle to get to 65 - somewhat unusual) - however there was noticeable resistance to acceleration. Once I got home I noticed that the temp gauge was showing less than 150 and the oil was fluctuating between 1/4 and 1/2.
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sears says my emmision won't pass because my check engine light will not come on when starting engine but it does go on when you only turn to the on position
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Recently have developed a strong gas smell in my 2002 Olds Bravada. I have checked around getting no where fast I have been told the culprit maybe the fuel pressure regulator but with the engine running and I am under the hood. There is no odor there is no odor outside the vehicle at all only inside...
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I have a 2000 oldsmobile bravada. When I'm driving i press the gas and it does not accelerate. The engine revs but it does not go. Then it will engage and will drive fine. What the problem is?
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I drive a 2000 Oldsmobile Bravada. I just changed the outer tie-rod (passenger side),and there is still a fairly good shake coming from the front end. I have checked everything that comes to mind (true, not too sound a mind). My question is, how would i check the steering gear box?
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When driving down the road, usually at speeds greater than 55 mph and usually in hotter weather, the vehicle will just shut off. Temp gauge stays firmly in the normal range, coolant level is fine. The vehicle will eventually restart after 5-20 minutes before repeating it's little 'siesta mode'.(It turns over, just won't start) I've been all over the internet and can find dozens upon dozens of identical problems in 1998-2002 Bravada, BUT NEVER A SOLUTION! There are suggestions from wiring shorts to fuel pump to the temperature sensor to PCM - but nobody has the courtesy to get back online and post if they ever found what the actual problem was. I can only surmise that either people just don't feel like posting the solution, or they are still trying to figure it out (which doesn't bode well for me).
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I have a 1997 Olds Bravada with 170K miles. Engine was running fantastic up until three weeks ago. Suddenly engine is "bogging" down and transmission is shifting between gears at certain speeds (like it can't decide---usually around 40mph). Replaced catalytic converter because mechanic said it was plugging. Now engine seems even worse---it feels like it is working really hard, like the brakes are stuck on or like it is pulling a really heavy load. Gas mileage is worse. Trans is still not shifting right...at 40 and 50 mph it can't "decide" what gear to be in and switches back and forth, and at higher speeds it has slight hesitations, like it's "missing" or not getting fuel for a split second. Mechanic said it needs a tune up.
Background: Replaced transmission one year ago with remanufactured trans (could all-wheel drive be stuck "on"?). Replaced catalytic converter. Also just had A/C recharged and began using it about one week before these troubles began. I have stopped using the A/C in case it was related, but the problems have continued.
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I have a 02 bravada that will not start, or even attempt to turn over. The battery is new, all the interior light are on, headlights work and radio is fine. When turning the key there's nothing though??? What could be causing this???
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99 Bravada 4.3L. Key rotates to start but the starter does not turn. I can remove the starter relay and jump it and it starts right up, swapped relay with another one and same thing. Car has an aftermarket remote starter that does NOT cut any wires, only ties into them. The remote starter is seeing the starter voltage from the key, but no signal is making it to the relay under the hood. The relay has 12v+, a ground, the starter post, and the post from the key, nothing happens with a test light with the other end grounded or connected to 12v+.
Second problem happened at the same time, maybe related. The floor shifter will not move when I step on the brake with the key 'on or off'. I removed the boot and move the little white lever and it will shift, but not like it should. All fuses are good both under the hood and inside and it.
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We pulled out of the parking garage going up the hill it acting like i was in neutral all of a sudden. it was running fine but i was coasting backwards. After checking the tranny fluid it was mostly gone so as my wife and kid sat in the still running car I went for fluid. I put in in and then drove up that hill went around the corner and it did it again. Then i got towed home. When its cold it works when I drive a little this happens. Its on all gears and no matter how much gas I give it there is no attempt at shifting and no weird noises.
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1997 Olds. Bravada. 4.3L original engine. 217000 miles, maintained well (routine oil changes, fluid checks, etc)
Intermittent stalls. When stalling, voltage found to drop to 0 even though radio, headlights, and dash lights remain functional. Engine will sometimes "automatically" return to running (it doesn't turn over, just runs) and the air bag light flashes, other times it needs to be restarted. No problem restarting, but may or may not stall a few seconds later. No specific action triggers the events. On a potential side note, the rear wiper motor will spontaneously start running occasionally (once per week frequency typical).
Attempted fix: cleaned both battery contacts, removed and cleaned frame ground, removed and cleaned body ground, all done with either sand paper and/or a wire brush
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Sometimes my Bravada won't start. It cranks good (new battery) and I can hear the fuel pump , but it doesn't fire up. I just got it back from the repair shop.?
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My C.E.L. (check engine light) flashes whenever the rpms are over 2000. I had it plugged in and the code was for "random cylinder misfire" all this was after I changed plugs, wires, rotor and dist.cap. What is going on? Its a 2000 olds bravada.
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I have a 98 bravada that is leaking oil from drivers side of engine just above u joints on front driveshaft. pours out on start then stops. does again on stop.what is there to cause?
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I bought my son his first vehicle, a 98 Bravada. We've had it less than a week and so far the major problem we have come across is the lights in for the gauge cluster in the dash are not coming on. First I thought it was a blown bulb so we replaced that. When we were putting the dash back together, I turned the truck on and turned on the headlights and got nothing. So I jiggled some wires thinking that it might've been a short or a loose wire and still nothing. It was getting dark so my son decided to put everything back together and try again in the morning. When he reconnected the connector for the dome/fog light, everything came back on. But when he moved the dashboard to put it back in place, everything went back out again. Again, I jiggled wires and nothing, not even a flicker. Now there's no lights in the dash and when he turns on the headlights, the radio lights go out along with the compass/MPG gauge located overhead.
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In the morning, when i go to pick up my news paper at local convenience store, the van is running rough and hesitate when accelerating.When i take the van 1 hous later, it will run smoothly and there will be no hesitation and i will be good for the rest of the day.
If i skip the trip to convenience store and the first thing in the morning i do a long trip, let's say 2 hours trip, the van will run rough all the way during those 2 hours.
When the van is running rough it will stay in this state until it's turned off, wait and restarted again.
When the van is running smoothly, it will stay in this state until next morning.
While driving, it never happened that the smooth running engine became running rough and the opposite is also true. It never hapenned while driving that the rough running engine became smooth.
I suspect that at engine start up, a parameter is stored and kept in memory until the car is turned off, wait and restarted again.
DTC code P0336 and P1174
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I have a 2004 Kia Spectra EX (2.0L Engine) that has begun to sputter and hesitate when I am accelerating, regardless of whether I am accelerating from a standstill or on the highway. It feels like the engine is either not getting enough gas, or that the air/gas mixture is not correct. The car has almost 150,000 miles and we have recently (within last 10,000 miles) changed the spark plugs and air filters. Where to begin looking? The car, from what I can find, does not have a PCV; otherwise, that would be my first suspicion.
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I bought New Camry 2014.5 LE. Most of time, my wife drives for short commutes to train stations and work. Its been 1.5 year and it still has less than $10K miles.
I feel it hesitates when I push the accelerator all the way quickly, then jerks. The engine revs up the moment I step on the accelerator but it hesitates before it actually picks up speed. If I step on the gas gradually, its fine.
I have Rav4 (4 Cyc) which does not behave this way.
I took the dealership and asked about it. The tech says it is drive by wire system so unlike old cars, which respond very quickly, may hesitate and considered normal. Some online article says the car's software learns a driving habit so it depends on the driver too but many other postings also suggest its a software glitch.
Is it really normal, a feature of 6 speed or is there a technical service bulletin addressing this issue so that I can show to the tech? Eco mode is turned off.
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My car now has a little over 370,000 miles on her. The other day I noticed a hesitation while accelerating, like an instant loss of power/ jerk. It didn't do it much at first and the higher the RPM's the less it seemed to do this. Once I got the car up to 60/70 mph it was pretty much unnoticeable.
What it was. Thought maybe a vacuum leak. Nope. Maybe a bad TPS or CPS (didn't end up checking those), Thought maybe a bad injector or O2 sensor (didn't end up checking those either). I did try some fuel injector cleaner though but saw no change. I had a feeling it had to be a sensor or something because the motor itself runs great other than the intermittent misfire.
So I drive it in to work this morning. (1 hour drive each way) and aside from the minor hesitation/bucking/jerking while accelerating, everything went pretty smooth so long as I had the car up to highway speeds. So I get off from work and start driving home. The problem seemed to have disappeared completely for the first 3 or 4 miles, then all of a sudden it started up again. Only this time it had gotten much worse.
I could no longer get the car to go over 70mph and when I came to a stop the car sounded like it wanted to die (but never did). It took forever from a complete stop to get past all of the sputtering and hesitation/missing to get the car up to speed. It would keep cutting in and out (the motor bogging down, then gaining normal power for a second or two and so on and so forth). So I decide to take it to a shop to see if they can diagnose it.
The guy hooks up his code reader and looks at the car for a little bit out in the parking lot. All he could do was suggest to change the spark plugs and said that that was where he would start. So I went ahead and listened to what he said about the spark plugs (even though I knew there wasn't anything wrong with them because I had just changed them about a year ago). So I'm changing them out and when I take out cylinder 1's coilpack I notice it's wet. It seems somehow water or moisture had gotten down into there. So I dried everything off and changed the plug (the old one looked fine but I changed it anyway) and I went ahead and changed out all the rest of the plugs too (they all looked fine as well)
So after seeing the water around the #1 spark plug and coil pack, The injectors are right in front of there, so I decided to take the plug off the injector and take a look.
Sure enough, I took the plug off of the injector right in front of the #1 spark plug (far left spark plug) and wouldn't you know it, it had water down inside of it. I pulled the plug off of the injector next to it and it had water in it too (but not as much). How water could have gotten down in there but it did. I took a Q-tip and used it to dry up all the water down in there. Put everything back together and took it for a spin and everything was back to normal.
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I have a 2002 f150 with the 5.4. Its got a rough idle and a bit hesitant on acceleration. Im wanting to replace the coils and plugs but what brand of coils should I use?
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I have a 95 Olds Ciera 3.1L Auto Transmission 150,000 Miles. While going down the highway as I was accelerating the transmission went out of gear while still in Drive (felt like I was in neutral and coasting). I found that the only gears that work are 1st & 2nd No Drive or Reverse. This happened suddenly without any hint of a problem prior to this. when I got home I checked the fluid (which I changed last summer) It was still clean and did not have any unusual odor, also the fluid level was fine.
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