Oil - Isuzu :: 2000 - Oil Light Has Been Consistently Coming On?
Jun 18, 2013
I drive a 2000 Isuzu Trooper. About 3 weeks ago my oil light came on while driving. I immediately stopped, checked my oil, then had my car towed to the shop, worried that I had lost oil pressure. Mechanic couldn't find anything wrong--oil was full, pressure is fine. He couldn't even get the light to come on once my car was at the shop. I drove home, and the light came on later during my drive. Knowing everything was okay, I continued.
I brought my car in again today since the light has been consistently coming on since then (which includes constantly turning on/off, flickering, dimming, brightening). He replaced my oil sending unit. I drive away today, and the light hasn't come on yet.
However, I just realized that it also isn't showing when I first turn my key and do a light check. I'm kind of frustrated with him (and also myself) that he or I didn't realize that it wasn't coming on for the light check, and instead just called it good since it wasn't coming on while driving. What could be going on?
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I have had some issues with my 2000 Honda civic. I have had consistent issues with my car getting hot. I have changed the thermostat, temp sender, O2 sensor, spark plugs and wires, fan relay, Air filter, Oil filter and fuel filter. I have also installed a toggle switch all within the last 9-12 months. My heating issues seem to be very random, when I changed some parts out it seems to do good for a bit but then randomly heats up and fast usually when I am idling. I have had 3 mechanics look at my car to work with the replacement of parts yet even they are puzzled with the issue as the car has been very well taken car of for it's age but had so many new parts installed in such a short time. On top of that I have noticed my gas mileage drop again, I noticed this before I had changed the temp sender but it went away for some time. The MPG has had a significant drop the past while and as you can imagine does not good for the pocket book when you are consistently filling the tank and replacing parts.
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Have a Hyundai accent 2000 manual. The vehicle inconsistently stalls while driving. One day it will drive all day without stopping. The next it will stall while driving 10 or more times.
I`ll pull over, turn ignition off. Turn the key 1-2 times. It starts. Drive sometimes 5-10 minutes will stall again, sometimes will stall an hour later. Some days not at all.
What I should be checking and how to go about it. Have the car booked in to get it put on the computer, but would rather do it myself especially if its just a sensor that needs replacing.
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got a 2000 rodeo that dies whenever I stop for light. I have replaced plugs.fuel filter and had fuel system cleaned, also ran seafoam thru EGR and brake booster but it still dies out.
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My Rodeo stalled after hitting a nice sized rain puddle on Friday. It was mainly on the passenger side. This happened to me about 10 months ago and I had it towed to a repair center and was told it was the timing belt. Few days and $600 later i got vehicle back. Ran fine till this puddle. Is it possible this could be the timing belt again? All the research I have done has not said this was an option. I need diagnosing this problem. The vehicle has been sitting for a few days and will crank but not turn over.
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There's been a reoccurring squeak and click coming from my passenger side for a while now recently it has been a lot more consistent. For the longest while I'd thought it was my springs/swaybar or something generally just not being tight. Suffice to say I was surprised when I jacked up the front of my car to do an oil change today and happened to catch a glance to the rear while working under there. One of the four subframe bolts in the rear (passenger side, closest to the rear of car, not the one next to the control arms) is apparently no longer doing it's job.
The subframe was hanging free of the body there as though no bolt was there, but upon inspecting the bolt in the subframe itself it is torques to spec (74 lb/ft). So whatever it should be attaching to up in the car is apparently no longer doing it and if I feel around the back of the subframe and rubber bushing I can feel a nut that I suppose should be up in car to accept the thread of the bolt. The hole above the frame doesn't appear broken or deformed, what gives? I've never torques this bolt or removed it, I can only assume the damage was done to it long ago and has just been getting worse ( I've only had the car for a year now). Is there so kind of rivnut type action that I can insert up into the hole, do I need the dealer to fix this for me?
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I own a 2001 isuzi trooper, the water pipe has been broken a couple times, so the radiator has been leaking so my car overheats. But I fixed it a couple of months ago, yet after I fixed it the car kept going through the water/coolant extremely fast and was overheating unless i put water in it every other day.
Yet, a couple of days ago, I was driving home, and i heard a bubbling noise, ignoring it i kept driving only to have complete loss of my accelerator and had my car rolling along the highway unable to accelerate. (And the last time I put water in the radiator was 10 days ago) now my car won't even turn on, and it sounds like it is having a very difficult time when I try the ignition. plus when I do try to turn the engine on, coolant is coming out of my exhaust pipe.
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I just recently acquired a 2000 Isuzu rodeo. The last owner said their girlfriend drove it with low oil, and it damaged the engine. On starting the car, there is a somewhat loud clicking/tapping noise from the engine. It speeds up if you step on the gas, and seemed to be louder with the camshaft cover off. I believe it to be an issue with a valve or cam or some other part in the head, but the person I am working ont his car with thinks the problem lies in the lower end, and wants to rebuild that.
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I have a 2000 Isuzu Rodeo with 230,000 miles. The A/C is cold when first turned on after start up, warm or cold engine. After about 5-8 minutes running on a sunny day, driving or at a stop, it starts blowing warm. If I shut the A/C off and leave it off for 30-45 seconds, it will blow cold again. On an overcast day it will blow cold for 15 minutes or more.
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My engine light came on last November which was diagnosed as “fan clutch seized”. My automatic transmission’s coolant fan clutch was replaced. Since then and on more than one occasion while returning from skiing in the mountains, I will hear this loud whining sound coming from the transmission area. I only hear it when the car is de-accelerating and I have not been able to replicate it once I am out of the mountains and the outside temperature is warmer. Is this a faulty fan clutch issue?
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I just bought a 2000 F250 SD, 4x4, 5.4, Quad Cab. I drove it off the lot, stopped to put air in the tires, jumped back in and it wouldn't crank. All of the dash lights worked fine. Tried jumping at the starter solenoid and got nothing. Got under the truck and jumped it off the starter, vroom, fired right up. Replaced the starter solenoid and had no issues for about 2 hours. Then it did it again. This time it wouldn't start at all. I towed it back to the dealer and they had it for 3 weeks.
Then yesterday I called and they said it was done. Picked it up, drove to the barber shop, got my hair cut, came back out and it did the same thing AGAIN. After jacking around with the shifter and turning the wheel back and forth 100 times it started. The key is kind of hard to turn sometimes in the ignition, so I'm thinking that the ignition cylinder needs to be lubed real good, but that shouldn't stop it from cranking the motor over, right? I was going to swap out the ignition switch, but I don't know if that will do any good either.
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As stated in the title, I have a 2000 Isuzu rodeo s fwd v6 SUV. While driving on the road recently I lost my speedometer, odometer, and cruise control. The odometer is digital and I can still read the display when the car is on, however the number never changes. There is a little over 185 K on the odometer. I did some research on my own and figured the problem was my vehicle speed sensor (VSS). I thus bought one, changed it without problems, yet my problem persists.
Now when I drive for a bit, and come to a stop my vehicle sometimes stalls. Not all the time though. I figure even though the VSS is good (I changed the second one I put in again for a factory VSS and still I get no change) maybe the signal isn't getting to the ECM. What are my other options for the issue? Could it be the cluster behind the console? Is there a speedometer cable in this vehicle that could be causing this problem? Is there some little selenoid somewhere that is bad and is causing these problems?
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The VSC dash light that's been consistently illuminating the past couple of weeks. The light never tripped prior to the car's battery dying. When the battery died, and the car wouldn't start, I disconnected the negative terminal, and charged the battery. Upon charging, the car started, but that is when the VSC light started illuminating.
I have an OBD II reader (craftsman) and saw that there was a failure to start code which was probably when I tried to start the car with the weak battery. There are other readiness codes (which I will have to get from my phone if you guys think they may be relevant). I cleared the failure to start code, but the light is still illuminated.
Specs: 2010 ES 350, ~68,000 miles
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My 2008 Prius has a dash that won't light up consistently. Also won't turn off until you hold the Start button for about 10 seconds. I found out my problems were a result of a bad 12v battery. So I changed it and the problem continues. Took the battery out and it tests fine. What else could be the problem and how can I fix it.
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On my way into work this morning I noticed that my brake lights don't always light up under very light braking. Noticed this on 2010?
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I have a 1996 Isuzu Rodeo 3.2L V6 with 114,000 miles. Last night when I turned on my headlights, the left half of my instrument panel did not light up. This includes the tachometer, voltmeter, and engine coolant temperature gauge. These gauges are working properly; they are just not lighting up. The rest of the gauges on the instrument cluster are working correctly; only the left half is not lighting up. Could this mean that an instrument cluster light bulb has gone out? If so, any directions and information on replacing that light bulb.
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We had the transmission rebuilt on Oct 1, 2013. Since then the check TOD light has flashed steadily. The transmission guys could get no codes on their equipment. We took it to another mechanic who replaced the speed sensor, light still flashed so he took it off. Finally found a way to get some codes which indicated neutral safety switch. He tried that, light still flashed, part removed. Tranny was leaking some fluid, so back to transmission shop. They had it for a week, fixed the leak, but could find nothing wrong with TOD, even from ATSG, so we took the car back.
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1996 izusu rodeo had check engine light on got code for egr valve. Replaced it light when out drove fine all day. Stopped at grocery store came back out would not start ... Will crank over but will not start. did a obg (two) scan get a p1640 output A circuit fault code along with a 1460 egr code ....
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I have a 2000 Passat w V6 thats in the shop at the dealers. The ABS/Brake light in the dash is coming on. The dealer says I need a new sensor in the ABS module. This sensor cost $700 plus about $400 in labor. Seems very pricey to me. My question is, could I buy a used ABS module and replace the bad one with the bad sensor myself? Where could I get a used or new ABS module at a good price? Is it hard to change out?
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2000 Ford Excursion XLT 4x4 V10 ... Part store shows I need a 3G alternator ... Current alternator put on by PO in 2013/14 s a Duralast DL7764 from Autozone. Tag is still on it.
My battery light is coming on for a few seconds and going off for several hours before it comes on again. Connections are good....crappy Autozone alternators.
But for some reason my motor has a 6G alternator. All parts stores say I need a 3G. Did Ford put 6G'S in all excursions, or do I have a 2004+ motor in my 2000 Ex? Or will a 6G fit where a 3G is supposed to be? All connections look factory including electrical hook ups.
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I have a 2000, Jeep Cherokee 4.0L. The check engine light, keeps coming on, and the scan tool, shows P0300, P0301, P0302, P0303. Misfires in #1, 2 & 3 cylinder.
I replaced the Coil Pack & all spark plugs with genuine jeep parts from the dealer. What might be wrong or other things to check?
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