Nissan - Xterra :: Gas Overflow When Try Filling Up / No Auto Shut Off On Pump
Mar 19, 2013
Lately my 2002 Nissan xterra will overflow gas when try filling up . It does not make a difference where or what type of pump is used. The auto shut off on the pump does not kick in until there is fuel running down the side of the truck and onto the ground. What changed and how to fix it?
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I'm a little paranoid about letting the pump auto shut-off on its own when filling up. Every pump I've been too have a long spring and the nozzle doesn't go very far in, not like the regular gas pumps. So I stop it manually when I think it gets close to being full. Do you all just let it auto stop or stop it manually?
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Our 2012 prius three is a huge hassle to refuel because the auto shut off on any gas pump is triggered repeatedly regardless of how much fuel is in the car. This happens anywhere I fill up and the only way to get gas in is by slowing the flow to a trickle and restarting the pump each time it shuts off (perhaps 30 times per refueling).
The dealer says it requires a complete replacement of the tank but I'm still not clear on what's causing the problem.
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I was filling up my tank, as I was running in fumes a few days ago (just 14 miles before death as per trip computer) and to my surprise, when I filled my tank, it only went roughly up to 16 gallons (15.9xx to be precise) before the nozzle kept shutting off. Was the nozzle defective (or was I in a rush for not waiting until the vapors leave the tank?) or the 18.5 gallon tank has a ~2.5 gallon reserve that even the instrument gauge doesn't account for, as it was all the way in the E with the yellow gas pump icon on?
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Can't figure this one out. I've had the car about 9 months and this is the first time I've ever had an issue filling it up with gas. Basically, if I tried to pump it much faster than a trickle, the pump would shut off. It must have taken me five minutes to pump a little less than nine gallons in. And the frustrating part about that is that you never know which of the click-offs is the one you should stop at.
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The scenario: I recently filled up at a station that, according to the attendant, had just lost electrical power but power had been restored. The pump was flowing agonizingly slowly, so I asked the attendant what was up, and he said the system needed 20 minutes or so to reboot before the pumps would flow at the normal rate--sounds kind of specious to me, but I was in no hurry, so I figured so what, I'd wait it out.
Well, eventually the tank filled up, and then some. The pump's auto-shutoff failed to work (my guess is that the flow rate was so slow that the back pressure failed to build up to the point to trigger it, but, whatever...). Gas was dripping everywhere by the time I noticed it (since it was taking so long, I wasn't paying close attention).
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I recently purchased a 2005 SantaFe LX with a 3.5L engine (4x4). The gas tank had been replaced prior to me buying it. The problem I have is when I am filling the gas tank, the gas pump never shuts off until the gas overflows out of the top of the filler neck. If I stop with approximately a couple of gallons left to go and wait a couple of seconds and then finish filling, the gas pump will usually click off before the overflow happens. The filler neck and vent hose don't appear to be pinched. This happens at multiple gas stations and weather doesn't effect it happening. The only issues I could find on line was the stopping and starting when trying to fill up and mine doesn't do that at all, it will just go until overflows like I described.
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Lately my 2004 Chevrolet Cavalier will overflow gas when filling up completely. It does not make a difference where or what type of pump is used. The auto shut off on the pump clicks and stops the gas. Then 1-2 seconds later gas spewes out of the filler hole. Putting about a half gallon or more of gas on the car and on the ground. What changed and how to fix it? The GM dealership doesn't know and neither do other shops. Here's a video : [URL] ....
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I have a 2000 Nissan Xterra. About a month ago it stalled while I was backing out of a parking spot. When I turned the key, the engine turned over but wouldn't start. A few minutes later it started and I drove it on a long road trip. It was fine until today when it stalled when my husband was going around a corner. He waited a few minutes then it started. Now tonight he started it, drove down the block and it stalled again. This time it won't restart.
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I can get my car to rev past 4,000 rpm in gears 1-4 but in 5th gear it wont pass 3,000. It used to be fine, but one day it was just like this and hasn't changed since. This is annoying because where I live some of the speed limits are at 75mph. When I'm in 5th gear at 3,000 rpm I'm only going 65. What can I do to fix this? Reset ECU? Clean MAF sensor? Is it related to an approaching timing belt failure (I'm at 94k miles and it needs to be replaced before 105k)...
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My 2003 Nissan Xterra has recently had a few things go wrong up until now I knew how to fix. Now I have only HOT air coming out of the interior vents. It doesn't matter what I do. I turn the knob to cool and turn the AC on and no cold air. I know that cool air isn't being introduced to mix with the engine air. What are some possible solutions and areas to look at.
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I have a 2003 Nissan Xterra, and have been having starting issues for while. Everybody who does a starting diagnostic test says everything is ok and working. Over the past 18 months, I have gotten new battery (charge is fine), replaced starter ( fine), distributor cap (wires, sparkplugs, cap, also fine.) Alternator has tested fine also, have not replaced this yet. The delay seems to be getting slightly longer, but once kicks in car starts fine. I have put too much money into this already to fix problem that has not gone away. Something is wrong and nobody has a clue Side note, no problems with engine, just takes a few seconds to start.
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2000 Nissan Xterra 2x4. 185,000 miles. I recently took the car to the mechanic a couple of days ago and had the IACV/TPS sensor replaced. Afterwards I had to tighten the throttle cable because of a grinding noise. Now the car putters slightly, then it seems to come close to stalling. This occurs while idling, while parked and at red lights, as well when driving. While in motion the car shudders and shakes slightly, as if on a bumpy road, but its fresh pavement. While these symptoms occur the RPMs (avg=900rpms) fluctuate; spiking to nearly 2,000rpms then plummeting to 3-400rpms. Notes:
(1) I found that the wire coupling on the distributor was broken (Probably Mechanic). However, the metal prongs for the coupling seem intact (Picture).
(2) Not original distributor (from Cardone Select), I do have the original though.
(3) Spark plug wires are original (old) except for 1.
(4) Spark plugs are a bit old, not that old though I think.
(5) It occurs more often during the cold, snow, and rain.
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I drive a 2004 Nissan Xterra. About 3 weeks ago I started out to run some errands and as I was pulling out of the parking lot the brake light came on. I pulled over and depressed/released the parking brake a couple of times and it stayed on. I proceeded to run my errands and after about 10 - 15 minutes the light went out. The brakes seemed to be working normally the whole time I was driving. When I got home I checked the brake fluid level and it was about halfway between min and max.
Since then the light has come on three more times. Each time the outside temperature is below 15F. It does not come on when the temp is higher. After driving for a short time the light always goes off.
Could there be freezing in the brake lines? Should I have the brake fluid flushed and replaced? I've searched my recommended maintenance schedule and this doesn't appear anywhere in it. The recommended brake fluid for my vehicle is DOT3.
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When I make right turns. Its as if the power steering does not work. It is not constant, no issues making left turns, and seems to happen more often in cold weather. About 5 years ago i had a recall to replace the steering column and thought that may have been the issue but took my car in for the recall, they replaced the steering column and still have the same issue.
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8 months ago i had a blown head gasket and went with a total new engine replacement. I did not use my usual mechanic but another repair shop that had a good reputation due to the price of a the new engine. My car ran well for about 2 months then i started to notice 2 issues. 1) when i applied the brakes hard the car stalled on me and 2) when i put the car in drive there was about a second hesitation before the car would drive. The hesitation (slipping) only does it when the car is in drive gear (auto transmission) and after a few moments of the car runs well even when i park it and restart it the rest of the day.
It only hesitates that way the first time i drive it for the day or if it has been parked for around 4 hours or more. The stalling when i press the brakes hard is constant. I took the car back to the repair shop and they told me my 6 month warranty did not cover that issue cause it was not a engine problem; they said they can look at the car but to even look at it was another $150. I think they are wrong and trying to get more $ out of me so I declined and now my 6 month warranty is expired and i still have the issue. When the car is in idle the rpms are very normal and when driving the rpms are normal. What it could be?
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We recently replaced the engine in my 2003 Nissan Xterra and since then we have had a problem with misfires. When accelerating it will periodically. Bog down and the car runs so rough the whole thing shakes. Then it rapidly accelerates and smooths out. Then the check engine light flashes. We have replaced everything not nailed down-plugs, wires, knock, crankshaft and mass flow sensors and on and on.
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I have a 2000 Nissan Xterra with about 100,000 miles. When I start out and get between 45 and 55 miles an hour, it sounds like I am going over speed bumps in the rear end. I noticed that it seems to come on more when I let up on the gas and barely gas it again. What the problem could be?
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I have a 2006 Nissan Xterra. 2 days ago I went to put my daughter in the car, and the rear passenger side door wouldn't open. I climbed in from the other side and tried to manually unlock the door, and it literally would not unlock. All the other doors unlock and open both automatically and manually. Its two days later and we still can't get the door to unlock.
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My Nissan xterra 2001 is smoking after turning off engine. Thermometer is showing normal temp. Check engine light is blinking.
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Last May I had the distributor replaced in my 2001 Nissan Xterra. Since it was replaced my car has shut off while I am driving three different times, separated by weeks to months, and only in heavy rain storms. When the car does shutoff it takes up to 15 minutes until it will start up again. In each case, once the car restarted it did not shutoff again. I recently noticed a correlation to heavy rain because I did not have any problems all summer long ( I live in Oregon where it never rains in the summer) and then last week in a heavy rainstorm the car shutoff while I was waiting at a red light.
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