I have a 2006 Nissan Xterra. 2 days ago I went to put my daughter in the car, and the rear passenger side door wouldn't open. I climbed in from the other side and tried to manually unlock the door, and it literally would not unlock. All the other doors unlock and open both automatically and manually. Its two days later and we still can't get the door to unlock.
View 1 RepliesIn 2006 I purchased a 2004 5-speed manual shift Nissan Xterra 4x4 with 19k miles on it, it looked and ran like new.I live in Florida, during the Summer of 2010 I noticed that when I accelerated from a standing start (like at a traffic light) as I shifted through gears 1-4, at some point the RPMs would rev up but the car was accelerating very slow. The only time this doesn't happen is in 5th gear or in 4WD-high or 4WD-Low. This problem is not consistent, it happens occasionally but enough times that I've had to alter the way I accelerate to avoid this problem, ie accelerate very very slowly.
I have taken my Xterra to my local Nissan dealer, twice, they cannot replicate this problem no matter what they do; drive it cold, drive it hot, fast, slow, cold weather, hot weather, no matter, they can't replicate the problem.
I have read here and there on the 'net (we all know the 'net never lies) that the transfer case on 4WD's can act squirrelly or could even be a simple case of replacing the transfer case fluid.
Why this "slippage" is happening and how can it be fixed? This is of concern only because if I have to accelerate hard (like when a locomotive is looking to T-bone me) I'd like the Xterra to get up and go rather than pause and reflect over the lilies of the field while Thomas the train is bearing down on me.
Hit the button and you can hear it unlock, pull the handle and nothing. All other doors open fine, just the main I like to use for time to time......you know to get in.
View 6 RepliesNeither key fob will work (yes batteries are good). We use both keys everyday, but I sent my daughter to store and she calls me and says the key won't open the door using the Fob or manually. I bring her my key and I can't get in the car either. When you press any button on either Fob absolutely nothing happens except the lil red light on the Fob blinks.
When using the key manually turning to the left does nothing, turning to the right causes a click that you can hear and feel but the door is still locked. Nothing has changed. The only thing different that she did was when she got out she hit the lock button on the door instead of using the Fob once she was out. ( she's not use to using Fob because her 93 SC400 Fobs don't work). So what happened here, what broke? Or did somehow she activate some Anti-Theft system or something? What do I need to do?
I have my doors set to unlock when I open the driver door. sometimes they do not unlock, there is no rhyme or reason for it, just it gets a wild hair and they don't unlock, drive to the next location and it works as advertised.
View 8 RepliesMy 2000 honha civic door will not open. the remote will unlock all doors except driver door which makes a noise like its trying to open but will only barely move the nub. When you touch the handle the lock goes back down. I've tried to open with key and tried from inside to open it with no luck. I partially removed inside panel to gain access, but could only pull the levers and not really do anything to the lock itself, I just can reach it. I'm considering cutting a hole from the outside to gain access to the lock, but once i do not sure what's next. what should i look for on the lock to get it to release the door latch?
View 4 RepliesWe are currently driving home, and our Chrysler Town & Country's rear hatch door won't unlock and open, by key or handle, so our suitcases are trapped in back. We don't know if there's an easy fix, but we won't get home until Sunday, when our mechanic is closed. We'd like to unpack!
View 5 Replies I recently purchased a 2009 Honda Civic EX. I also have a 2012 Honda CRV, and I'd like to set the key fob/car behavior like the CRV, in that when I click the unlock button, all doors open, instead of the 'classic' behavior one click drivers-side, two clicks both sides - is there a way to set this up ?
Also, I used to have a 2005 Honda Accord, and it had a neat option/behavior - hold down the unlock button after unlocking the car, and the driver and passenger side windows go down - pretty handy when you've parked the car during a hot day - can program that into the key fob/car ?
Ok, here is the problem: 1997 Buick Park Ave driver's door will not open from inside or outside. It will not unlock. The inside lock/unlock button will not move to unlock position. Using the key from outside will not unlock the door. This happened on the coldest day of the year (15 degrees). I'd love to take off the door panel to look inside but I can't open the door! I'm getting tired of entering and exiting the car from the passenger door!
View 3 RepliesI have a 2000 Nissan Xterra. About a month ago it stalled while I was backing out of a parking spot. When I turned the key, the engine turned over but wouldn't start. A few minutes later it started and I drove it on a long road trip. It was fine until today when it stalled when my husband was going around a corner. He waited a few minutes then it started. Now tonight he started it, drove down the block and it stalled again. This time it won't restart.
View 1 RepliesI can get my car to rev past 4,000 rpm in gears 1-4 but in 5th gear it wont pass 3,000. It used to be fine, but one day it was just like this and hasn't changed since. This is annoying because where I live some of the speed limits are at 75mph. When I'm in 5th gear at 3,000 rpm I'm only going 65. What can I do to fix this? Reset ECU? Clean MAF sensor? Is it related to an approaching timing belt failure (I'm at 94k miles and it needs to be replaced before 105k)...
View 19 RepliesMy 2003 Nissan Xterra has recently had a few things go wrong up until now I knew how to fix. Now I have only HOT air coming out of the interior vents. It doesn't matter what I do. I turn the knob to cool and turn the AC on and no cold air. I know that cool air isn't being introduced to mix with the engine air. What are some possible solutions and areas to look at.
View 4 RepliesI have a 2003 Nissan Xterra, and have been having starting issues for while. Everybody who does a starting diagnostic test says everything is ok and working. Over the past 18 months, I have gotten new battery (charge is fine), replaced starter ( fine), distributor cap (wires, sparkplugs, cap, also fine.) Alternator has tested fine also, have not replaced this yet. The delay seems to be getting slightly longer, but once kicks in car starts fine. I have put too much money into this already to fix problem that has not gone away. Something is wrong and nobody has a clue Side note, no problems with engine, just takes a few seconds to start.
View 2 Replies2000 Nissan Xterra 2x4. 185,000 miles. I recently took the car to the mechanic a couple of days ago and had the IACV/TPS sensor replaced. Afterwards I had to tighten the throttle cable because of a grinding noise. Now the car putters slightly, then it seems to come close to stalling. This occurs while idling, while parked and at red lights, as well when driving. While in motion the car shudders and shakes slightly, as if on a bumpy road, but its fresh pavement. While these symptoms occur the RPMs (avg=900rpms) fluctuate; spiking to nearly 2,000rpms then plummeting to 3-400rpms. Notes:
(1) I found that the wire coupling on the distributor was broken (Probably Mechanic). However, the metal prongs for the coupling seem intact (Picture).
(2) Not original distributor (from Cardone Select), I do have the original though.
(3) Spark plug wires are original (old) except for 1.
(4) Spark plugs are a bit old, not that old though I think.
(5) It occurs more often during the cold, snow, and rain.
I drive a 2004 Nissan Xterra. About 3 weeks ago I started out to run some errands and as I was pulling out of the parking lot the brake light came on. I pulled over and depressed/released the parking brake a couple of times and it stayed on. I proceeded to run my errands and after about 10 - 15 minutes the light went out. The brakes seemed to be working normally the whole time I was driving. When I got home I checked the brake fluid level and it was about halfway between min and max.
Since then the light has come on three more times. Each time the outside temperature is below 15F. It does not come on when the temp is higher. After driving for a short time the light always goes off.
Could there be freezing in the brake lines? Should I have the brake fluid flushed and replaced? I've searched my recommended maintenance schedule and this doesn't appear anywhere in it. The recommended brake fluid for my vehicle is DOT3.
When I make right turns. Its as if the power steering does not work. It is not constant, no issues making left turns, and seems to happen more often in cold weather. About 5 years ago i had a recall to replace the steering column and thought that may have been the issue but took my car in for the recall, they replaced the steering column and still have the same issue.
View 5 Replies8 months ago i had a blown head gasket and went with a total new engine replacement. I did not use my usual mechanic but another repair shop that had a good reputation due to the price of a the new engine. My car ran well for about 2 months then i started to notice 2 issues. 1) when i applied the brakes hard the car stalled on me and 2) when i put the car in drive there was about a second hesitation before the car would drive. The hesitation (slipping) only does it when the car is in drive gear (auto transmission) and after a few moments of the car runs well even when i park it and restart it the rest of the day.
It only hesitates that way the first time i drive it for the day or if it has been parked for around 4 hours or more. The stalling when i press the brakes hard is constant. I took the car back to the repair shop and they told me my 6 month warranty did not cover that issue cause it was not a engine problem; they said they can look at the car but to even look at it was another $150. I think they are wrong and trying to get more $ out of me so I declined and now my 6 month warranty is expired and i still have the issue. When the car is in idle the rpms are very normal and when driving the rpms are normal. What it could be?
We recently replaced the engine in my 2003 Nissan Xterra and since then we have had a problem with misfires. When accelerating it will periodically. Bog down and the car runs so rough the whole thing shakes. Then it rapidly accelerates and smooths out. Then the check engine light flashes. We have replaced everything not nailed down-plugs, wires, knock, crankshaft and mass flow sensors and on and on.
View 10 RepliesI have a 2000 Nissan Xterra with about 100,000 miles. When I start out and get between 45 and 55 miles an hour, it sounds like I am going over speed bumps in the rear end. I noticed that it seems to come on more when I let up on the gas and barely gas it again. What the problem could be?
View 2 RepliesMy Nissan xterra 2001 is smoking after turning off engine. Thermometer is showing normal temp. Check engine light is blinking.
View 5 RepliesLast May I had the distributor replaced in my 2001 Nissan Xterra. Since it was replaced my car has shut off while I am driving three different times, separated by weeks to months, and only in heavy rain storms. When the car does shutoff it takes up to 15 minutes until it will start up again. In each case, once the car restarted it did not shutoff again. I recently noticed a correlation to heavy rain because I did not have any problems all summer long ( I live in Oregon where it never rains in the summer) and then last week in a heavy rainstorm the car shutoff while I was waiting at a red light.
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