Nissan - Xterra :: 2003 - AC Stops Blowing Cold After Driving For A While
Aug 2, 2012
I have a 2003 Nissan Xterra 4 clyd. My AC will stop blowing cold air after driving for about 15-20 minutes. The light on the controls is still on and seems to be running. If I turn off the AC switch and let it sit for about 5-10 minutes and turn it back on (can hear the compressor kick on) it will blow cold air again for another 15-20 minutes or sometimes less. If I turn the switch too early the compressor won't turn on. I've checked the levels on the freon and had the thermal amplifier replaced. Also the fan clutch was replaced, which I was told by the mechanic that would fix the AC problem.
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My 2003 Xterra has been a great car. Few problems until last year I had to have the timing belt replaced (at 120,000 miles no biggie), the day that I got back from Iraq. Well everything has been great since then until a couple of weeks ago I started noticing some acceleration problems. When I press on the accelerator, especially when the car is cold, it will rev, pause, then resume normal accleration. I would like to point out that the whole car pauses, not just the reving. Mechanics seemed stumped and I would rather know what to tell them to do rather than let them dig around and charge me a bunch.
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I have Nissan Tiida 2009, I recently replaced the compressor, The AC is blowing cold air now, if the car is standing still and I turn the AC on, everything works the way it is supposed to I have checked the fan speed also, all is ok but once I start driving on the main Highway after a while it feels like the Ac is not throwing enough air, its not like it stops cooling because if I put my hand near the vents, It is still cold around that area but at that point even if I increase the fan speed to max the throw of air remain the same. it becomes so less that I start sweating. What could be the problem here.
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I'm having a problem with my 2003 Elantra. Occasionally it hesitates (acts like it is going to run out of gas). When it does this the a/c stops blowing cold. Lasts for 3-4 minutes. Most recent time it had 1/2 tank of gas. I also have a problem putting gas in. I have to fill it very slowly or the gas pump will keep clicking off. I don't know if they are related or not. What fuel problem will affect the a/c?
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I've got a 2003 Xterra, RWD, manual transmission, with around 110k. It's been giving me a little trouble shifting into gears 1-3 when the weather's below 30F. It started doing this when I got the transmission fluid changed last, about 2 years ago. I took it back to the mechanic who fixed it immediately, and he changed the fluid a second time for free, but when the problem persisted, he said he had no idea. Needless to say, I haven't gone back to him. Since then, I've tried to ignore it (not too hard in sunny NC), but it's getting worse and I'm about to move to Chicago, so I think I should fix it before I move to the land of harsh winters. My first guess would be the tranny fluid weight might be a little low and I should try a heavier weight.
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I have a 2003 Nissan Xterra, and have been having starting issues for while. Everybody who does a starting diagnostic test says everything is ok and working. Over the past 18 months, I have gotten new battery (charge is fine), replaced starter ( fine), distributor cap (wires, sparkplugs, cap, also fine.) Alternator has tested fine also, have not replaced this yet. The delay seems to be getting slightly longer, but once kicks in car starts fine. I have put too much money into this already to fix problem that has not gone away. Something is wrong and nobody has a clue Side note, no problems with engine, just takes a few seconds to start.
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When I make right turns. Its as if the power steering does not work. It is not constant, no issues making left turns, and seems to happen more often in cold weather. About 5 years ago i had a recall to replace the steering column and thought that may have been the issue but took my car in for the recall, they replaced the steering column and still have the same issue.
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8 months ago i had a blown head gasket and went with a total new engine replacement. I did not use my usual mechanic but another repair shop that had a good reputation due to the price of a the new engine. My car ran well for about 2 months then i started to notice 2 issues. 1) when i applied the brakes hard the car stalled on me and 2) when i put the car in drive there was about a second hesitation before the car would drive. The hesitation (slipping) only does it when the car is in drive gear (auto transmission) and after a few moments of the car runs well even when i park it and restart it the rest of the day.
It only hesitates that way the first time i drive it for the day or if it has been parked for around 4 hours or more. The stalling when i press the brakes hard is constant. I took the car back to the repair shop and they told me my 6 month warranty did not cover that issue cause it was not a engine problem; they said they can look at the car but to even look at it was another $150. I think they are wrong and trying to get more $ out of me so I declined and now my 6 month warranty is expired and i still have the issue. When the car is in idle the rpms are very normal and when driving the rpms are normal. What it could be?
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We recently replaced the engine in my 2003 Nissan Xterra and since then we have had a problem with misfires. When accelerating it will periodically. Bog down and the car runs so rough the whole thing shakes. Then it rapidly accelerates and smooths out. Then the check engine light flashes. We have replaced everything not nailed down-plugs, wires, knock, crankshaft and mass flow sensors and on and on.
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I'm looking for a car that is cheap to maintain. I have to have something that allows for interior cargo space.So far, I can find either of these two models for under $8k in clean condition.
I like the Subaru Outback (H6 engine), but I know that more parts can likely equal higher priced maintenance. AWD involves a front and rear differential and a transfer case that can go bad anytime and it has a more complex set up than a basic truck. Then, there's the computery crap that can go wrong.
The Xterra, if I can get a basic 2 wheel drive should, I'd guess, be fairly cheap to maintain, no? Sure, I loose out on the driving advantages offered by the Subaru Outback and gas will cost more.
I love driving the Subaru, but I'm guessing that once a bunch of rattles, leaks, and other issues start cropping up that I might not be so happy with it. The vehicles in my price range are all sitting at 100k - 120k miles. The Nissan Xterra is a truck. It drives like a truck. I might be happier with it, knowing I won't have to pay for high priced repairs. I drive rather conservatively with the intention of keeping my vehicle in good condition. It would be a daily driver for the next 18 months.
Even with higher fuel costs (Xterra will likely get 16-19 mpg), I'm thinking I'd be better off buying the Xterra than the Subaru, yes or no?
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2003 Nissan Xterra 2.4. It grinds when I shift gears, gears through 2nd thru 5th.
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03 Xterra makes whining noise at 2200-2500 rpm. Noise goes away outside this range. At 3000 rpm sounds like tachy cable rattles. Have had Nissan check trans, diff, muffler. No luck.
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2003 NISSAN Xterra
Problem started a couple of days ago. While driving the car normally it suddenly stopped. I was able to restart it but it turned off again 60 seconds later. This has gone on with the engine running from 10 minutes to 10 seconds. The battery terminals and all cables are clean. Distributor cap and rotors have been cleaned. Fuel pump replaced last night. I still get the problem. Error codes listed were: P0328 - Pre Detonation (knock sensor) Bank 1 causes could be restricted fuel - over temp engine. Now this error has been coming up for five years and I've replaced the sensor numerous times. P0732 - Gear 2 Incorrect RatioP0102 - Mass Air Flow Low InputP1148 - Closed Loop Control Function, BANK 1P0420 - Catalytic Convertor, BANK 1P0134 - O2 Sensor No Activity, BANK 1
Regarding Fuel Starvation - NOPE, Engine Too Hot (it wasn't), Second Gear Not Within Ratio (never had gear problems), Knock Sensor and most error codes have been related to bank one. Error codes on car computer were erased and engine is still hesitating slightly and stopping. Just checked Mass Airflow Sensor and it looks clean.
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2005 Isuzu Ascender 6cyl--auto-- all power--2 wheel dr-- Air cond blows very little air that is only slightly cooler than the outside temp. This only happens during hot weather( 90 Fahrenheit or higher ) after highway driving for extended periods of time, usually after a few hours. It works as it should during any other conditions. After letting everything cool down, it works properly. The dealer says they cannot get it to duplicate this action and therefor says there is nothing wrong with it. I first noticed this at about 50,000 miles because that was my first trip in it. It now has 70,000 miles.
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It's my 2005, 2.7l. auto trans, FWD.
AC stops blowing cold when the engine temp get hot. As long as the car is moving, it blows nice and cold. Also, when sitting the engine temp rises quickly and will over heat if you don't get moving.
Cooler fan on the inside of the radiator never kicks over to high mode as the temp goes up. I checked the fuses and the relay and both are good.
That leaves me with a bad fan? Correct? Also, what is the part number of the fan?
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2004 Solora ... 185K Miles and after driving about 45-60 minutes the AC stops blowing cold air. The blower inside the car runs, the clutch is still engaged on the compressor yet only warm air is blowing through the vents. If the car sits overnight the AC will work again. It does not always stop after 60 minutes of driving. Sometimes I can go days driving 60 minutes at a time and the AC works the entire time. Other times it will quit after 45 minutes. When it works I have no complaints.
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I've seen several posts regarding the warning lights, mine is a bit different. My Warning Light, Maint Reqd, ((!)), and engine light are all on. I've driven it a few times since and notice that after driving for 10 minutes or so, the VSC light also comes on. In one instance the brake light also came on. At that point my AC seems to also stop blowing COLD air. The motor blower motor still runs, but the air is no longer cold. Battery checks out. Coolant levels are good. Code indicated "something with the inverter cooling" according to local garage. Suggested I take it to the dealer. Scheduled for a trip to dealer tomorrow but wondering if there's anything I can/should do in the meantime.
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I have a 2005 Prius that financed from a small dealer last year. Currently has over 140k miles on it. When I bought it it had the Red Triangle and it worked fine until recently (about 2 months ago). Recently I've been having some problems. When I go at higher speeds I get the following sings come on:
1. Red Triangle
3. Orange check engine light
2. Orange (Symbol)CHECK - Malfunction Indicator Lamp
3. Orange (!) - Brake Warning Light
4. Orange VSC - Vehicle Stability Control Warning Light
When these lights are on, my AC stops blowing cold air. Sometimes when all these lights are on, the car will slow down and will not let me go past 37 MPH I have to then pull over turn the car off and then on, then the lights turn off and I can drive normal, on short trips that is.
Recently on a longer trip over 50 miles or so all the lights I mentioned came on plus the red break light on the left turned on with a continuous beep. We pulled off the HWY and turned the car off then on and the lights disappeared except for the big red Triangle that one is always on. We continued driving it but it kept doing it so we had to let it rest for over 30 minutes. We had to take it really slow and we finally got to our destination.
Codes P08A3 and P0A37 Prius 2005....
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AC needed regassing on my phaeton, lasted over a year before another regas, then 3 months and its blowing warm again
my symptoms:
1)AC stops blowing cold a few months after AC recharge
2)When it was blowing cold most cold was through only one vent (the one to the left of the steering wheel), whilst it was getting weaker (vlowing warmer) the one vent was blowing cold rest were all blowing warm
3)Slight condensation settling in center of windscreen, especially after rain
4)Something rattly rolls across the inside dash on occasion when turning sharply!
the codes:
01274 - Air Flow Flap Positioning Motor (V71)
defective or incorrect basic settings
00445 - Loss of Refrigerant
I imagine the compressor has a leak. Euro Car Parts will fit and gave the part number as 3D0 820 803T. I've got it booked into the local dealership but am worried about a ridiculous bill.
There's a couple of mechanics I could use locally I suppose but its a very rare care with a very complicated AC system I hear. Especially on the part numbers and where to get a cheap compressor (if indeed that is the problem) I've got the shareware version of VCDS so cant do complicated stuff I've read about basic settings for HVAC and I've run that didn't work with the V71 motor code.
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Have a 2007 jetta. A/C works well. However when highway driving the air stops blowing into cabin as if someone had shut all vents. When slow down, problem goes away. Took it to dealer and they have no clue.
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In hot weather, after hard driving for an hour or more, usually (but not always) with a/c running, the engine on my 1998 Almera (a/k/a N15 or Pulsar) stops. The idiot lights come on and if the radio or CD player was on, it shuts off. I can immediately shift to neutral, turn the key, and the engine restarts almost instantaneously, with no difficulty. (I've gotten quite good at this, and can restart the car within a couple seconds, even while I'm coasting as a result of the original engine shutoff.)No matter how hard I drive the car, the problem happens ONLY in hot weather. I've had the beast worked on by competent Nissan mechanics, but no one has been able to figure out the cause.
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