Nissan - Vibration - Maxima :: 2004 - Shakes In 5th Gear Going Over 70 MPH When RPMs 3k
Mar 12, 2014
I've found a bad engine mount over the passenger front wheel I'm replacing (why they had to put the 5th nut holding the mount underneath the mount instead of on top like the rest, i'll never know. drilling that out and replacing with a bolt and nut on top to fix that and going to slap an engineer). There's no wheel balance issues or wobbly wheels when up on the lift. Recently replaced my spark plugs, could it be a misfire that causes this when the engine is being pushed past 3K rpms?
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1990 Maxima. Last night the car started shaking after pulling up to stop sign, it kept shaking the whole way home. Acceleration was slow and difficult. Car started up fine this morning, started to shake again at first stop sign...then it was OK for rest of the day.
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It is a '90 Nissan Maxima. I just replaced my drivers side axle (cv joint was clicking), and now my car vibrates at highway speeds when turning right. I am pretty sure I seated the axle correctly....could it be a bad axle? I heard that turning the axle 90 degrees and reinstalling may work? I got a new axle (Empi brand).
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2002 Nissan Maxima with 125K miles. When going around a curve to the left there is a noticable rumble or vibration in the right front tire area. Going straight at high speeds is smooth and quiet. I checked the large neoprene boot and it does not appear to be cracked or anything but there is a joint(I believe it is either the ball joint or tie rod) that had a lot of grease around it, even away from where it connects. Could that be the problem? I could not get under car to see exactly where grease was coming from. Just a quick check by sticking my hand up there and feeling around.
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I have a nissan maxima 2000 that sputters and the problem is getting progressively worse. If I am at a stoplight or just stopped with the drive gear on the car sputters. It skips almost every second, but if i put in in park the it runs smoothly. Now I notice that it is sputtering even when I am driving( it was not doing it before). I have already changed the sparkplugs and cleaned the injectors. Now I am debating whether i should change coils and boots. The repair is quite expensive so i want to make sure I am doing the right thing.
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The car wouldn't start ( just cranked a lot) I had the car towed to a local mechanic. He replaced the MAP sensor and now I've noticed 2 new problems.
1) engine idle rpms are erratic. When the car is started RPMs are at 1,500 after a few minutes they drop to normal range of 700 to 900 RPMs sometimes they drop too low and the car stalls. sometimes the RPMs surge up and down from 800 to 1,200 rpms.
2) very hard shift from 1st to 2nd gear. All the other shifts are normal. He said that he adjusted the RPMs because they were too high. I don't know how he did that because I thought that you couldn't adjust them because they are controlled by the computer.
Some other info, it has an exhaust leak (which Im going to fix) upstream of the O2 sensor, where the resonator connects to the headers. I replaced a rear brake line and while bleeding the lines I got brake fluid on the ABS wheel speed sensors. I replaced the coolant bypass hose and got water all over part of the engine compartment. It was immediately after I replaced that hose that the car wouldn't start.
Could the exhaust leak be the cause of the erratic idle rpms? Could water have gotten in a wire connector or shorted something out when I replaced the bypass hose? The bypass hose is directly above the transmission. My biggest concern is the hard shifting from 1st to 2nd gear.
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I keep failing my emissions because my check engine light keeps coming on. I was told that the problem was the catalytic converter rear and needed to buy one for both sides. The problem I am having that I don;t know which Catalytic Converter I should buy. I know without it is causing my car to stutter. Which I should get?
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When the car is cold it runs fine. After driving for 10-15 minutes the transmission slips, while driving the engine revs and then engages again.I have only noticed the disengaging/engaging as speeds less than 40 MPH. When the car is in neutral and placed into drive it may take several seconds to engage which happens about 60% of the time. Could this be a sensor failure or time for a new transmission?
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My 2004 Acura TL with 6 speed manual transmission has an issue. When the RPMs go between 1200 and 2000 the car shakes violently as if the engine isn't attached or is trying to get away. At idle it's silky smooth and after 2000 RPM it feels fine too. The gear I'm in doesn't matter and this shaking happens whether I'm standing still or driving... it just happens in the 1200-2000 RPM range. Again, this is not a small amount of vibration, I'm talking about seriously shaking the whole car.
This is what I've done so far:
1. Replaced the three engine mounts two days ago, and double checked the transmission mounts and they seem fine. At the same time my mechanic discovered a few bolts on the subframe that were loose, and we tightened those.
2. Replaced O2 sensor that was causing check engine light and it's fine now.
3. Timing belt, clutch and power steering was done by previous owner maybe 3-4 months ago.
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2007 5.4 . Starts good , idles all day. As soon as you try to rev it, it stumbles rattles etc. Shut it off, wait a second, restart then Idles fine. I watched live Data and it carries on when the VVT solenoids become active (above 800 rpm).There duty cycle goes to 60-70 percent while revving. I think it Is just one side of the engine. Could be VVT solenoids sticking on? yes ? No?
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I have a 2004 SD with 5.4 that is running pretty rough both at idle and driving. Truck shakes a lot at lower rpms. I have a scan tool and had a misfire on cylinder 4 so I replaced the coil and the plug. Also replaced the idle air control valve. Plan on replacing O2 B1 S2. (One of my codes) even after replacing the coil and plug I'm still getting misfire detected from cylinder 4??? Other codes I had were misfire detected on he first 1000 revolutions. That hasn't come back though.
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I have a 2011 Nissan Maxima SV that has poor gas mileage. I took it to Nissan to get checked out but they said there's nothing they could do because the car is showing no codes or no check engine light. I got my spark plugs changed, it seemed like it worked but a week or so later, it went back to how it was (the gas mileage). 2 weeks later, my mechanic checked the spark plugs in front of me, no rust or leaks on them. I burn a half tank of gas every 2 days and that's just driving local to work and back.
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The ac compressor on my 2003 Maxima keeps going out. Mechanic says the replacements are refurbrished, as the new ones are hard to find and expensive. 143,000 on the car.
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I have a misfire on the number 2 cylinder on my 97 Nissan Maxima 5spd. The computer has been changed 3 times, and it'll work for a short time after the new computer is installed, but then the problem resumes. What would cause this to happen? The coil has also been changed.
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my car won't start. It would try to turn over occasionally, The battery checks out. i tried to jump start it bypassing the battery with no results. multimeter reads current though cable going from battery to alternator. what is wrong with my car??
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I have a 1998 Nissan Maxima, and when I brake or am moving very slowly in stop and go traffic, my car sounds like a foghorn. I am thinking maybe I need new brake pads, but I thought brakes were supposed to squeal when they are bad. I remember them squeaking a little bit, but nothing major. Then all of a sudden I'm starting to get this foghorn sound.
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Keep getting the P0420 code on this vehicle. Have changed air filter, spark plugs, run fuel injector cleaner through the tank on Shell 93 octane fuel. Drove 430 highway miles to clean out the carbon and the SES light is still on and when we check the code it says Catalyst system effiency below threshold bank 1. How do i get this fixed?
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2002 Nissan Maxima with 118K miles. Heating and A/C buttons that turn the fan on different levels doesn't work. It will cut on/off but the setting can be on low and it always blows on high. The temp. is correct(heat or cold) on what we set...it just always blows on high no matter what we set. It is a bush button kind of setting not a dial that you turn.
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I have a 2007 Nissan Maxima and after changing the oil added Lucas Oil Stabilizer and when I went to start the car the engine shook for about 3 seconds and I was unable to start it again. Towed it to Nissan service and they said codes came up as the camshaft sensors were bad and engine was flooded and need to dry them out before testing it out. So on Monday I received a call from the service manager and he told me that they tried replacing the camshaft sensors but it would not start. He then said that his technions working on the car believe the timing chain jump causing vavles to get bent. Cause the engine has 107k the will not repair my car and recommend a new engine. I informed the service manager I find it hard to believe that any vavles could have gotten bent with the engine running only 3 seconds and had my car towed back to my house. I tried replacing the crankshaft shaft sensor and it still will not start. So before I attempt to open the timing chain cover wanted to see if the timing chain could have jumped only running for 3 seconds and to see if it might be something else? Still don't understand why after adding the oil stabilizer to the oil it would had stalled out like that when it was running so good and starting up with no problems. I read on line that Nissan has had many issues with their timing chain guides wearing out but can't see how the oil stabilizer would effect the guide.
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My 1993 Maxima at times will not start. There is no rhyme or reason for it not starting. Either that or I have not found a particular reason or reasons for why it will not start. Sometime it is over night and at times it may happen when it sat for a couple of hours. Took it to a garage which they check the battery, starter, ignition switch, starter relay and all was okay.
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I have a 2000 Nissan Maxima GXE four-door sedan, which I purchased new. In May 2008, at 39,556 miles I had to replace the alternator. In January 2011, at 45,201 miles (+5,645 miles) I had to replace the alternator again. Now, in December 2013 at 49,630 miles (+4,429 miles) I have to replace the alternator for the third time. It just doesn’t make since that the less I drive, the more often I have to replace the alternator. The replacement alternators were remanufactured and not purchased from a Nissan dealer. Do you know what would be causing the alternators to fail? Do you think purchasing a new alternator from Nissan dealer would solve the problem?
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