Nissan - Vibration - Frontier :: 2005 - Roar And Vibration That Keeps Getting Worse Over Time
Dec 2, 2013
I've got a 2005 Nissan Frontier that has a roar and vibration that keeps getting worse over time. It happens as long as the car is rolling, but is the loudest at around 35 and 65 mph. From the driver seat is does sound like it's coming from the front passenger side. A few months ago I was driving across a curvy road and when I got home I could smell hot brakes. I checked, and the front passenger side caliper was stuck. I rebuilt the caliper, and that seemed to free up the wheel, but didn't fix the roar. I drove a couple more weeks and found the caliper stuck again. So this time I replaced it. The wheel has been fine since, but the roar is still present. After a while I figured it was a bad wheel bearing and replaced that too. But, that didn't work. I've also taken it to a shop and had them check the alignment, to which they said it was fine. I'm still racking my brain trying to figure this out.
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I have some serious vibration at about 40 to 50 MPH only when the accelerator is depressed. As soon as I let off the gas it stops. I have had the tires rotated and balanced and the U joints checked. My Mechanic says he can't figure it out and to drive it until it breaks.
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I have a 2004 Nissan Frontier with V6 non-supercharged engine, 4x4, with manual transmission, 150k miles. For approximately the last 30k miles, I have had a persistent shuddering in the cab when I apply the brakes slowing from about 15 to 0 MPH. It is accompanied by a low humming noise that decreases in pitch as the truck slows down. It only happens when the brakes are warm; about 70+ degrees outside or after I've been slowing down a lot. It does not seem to correspond to engine temperature, only my perceived temperature of the brakes. There is no pedal feedback, and it does not shudder when I stop using only the parking brake. It does not seem to affect stopping distance.
I first tried to fix it by doing a very thorough front/rear brake job - new pads/shoes, new rotors/drums, and repacked front wheel bearings. That had no effect on the problem. I tried rotating the tires and that had no effect. I then did a complete front end job and replaced all the bushings and balljoints via brand new pre-assembled control arm assemblies. I also replaced the tie rod assemblies, sway bar bushings/end links, and had an alignment done. That had no effect.
Based on the repairs I've done, I would assume that it is having to do with the front brakes, but is not warped rotors or anything in the front suspension.
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I have a 2005 chevy trailblazer that vibrates. Gets worse when air conditioner is on. I've put new tires, new front end alignment, new spark plugs, changed my harmonic balancer. My motor mounts are fine. My engine light is not on so i cannot figure it out.
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I started noticing a vibration at 65-70mph that gets worse if I go faster. I got the tires balanced and rotated but vibration is still there. Wondering if it could be the trans or a U-joint.
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I have a 2013 es350 with ~24k miles. Their is an annoying vibration when the A/C is turned on when the car is stopped. The car has a very minor slight vibration at all times that gets a little worse when in 'D' gear at idle. However once the A/C is turned on i can feel the wheel, seats and center console vibrate, especially while in the 'D' gear. To elaborate i can feel it around the car and easily notice the vibration. As soon as i turn the A/C off the vibration goes away and is back to normal. I understand that the A/C puts a strain on the car.
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I drive a 2003 Nissan Frontier Crew Cab SE. I purchased the car in Honolulu and had no issues with it there. I moved to Colorado in June of 2010, and since then, I have noticed that my truck shocks me everytime I get out and reach to shut the door. I know that the climate is much drier here, but this isn't just a little zap...it makes my whole hand and up my arm feel fuzzy for a couple minutes. I have something installed on my truck that is like an electric anti corrosion device that is connected to the battery that i think is the culprit. It is connected to the battery and emits a high pitched, very faint tone that you can hear when the truck is off and you stand next to it. Do all Nissan's have this? Or is this just because the truck came from hawai'i? And is this normal?
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I have a 02' 250 4x4 with 250000 miles on it. While driving between 55 to 65 mph there is a roar and vibration that seems to be coming from the rear. I have about 35% tire tread left and have had the rear tires balanced and it still does it. Having issues with drive shafts unbalanced or rear ends?? I am not sure where to start....
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I own a 2005 grand am se, (v6) this engine rattle has been going on for a while now (6 months+) the rattle really hasn't gotten any worse in that time, I uploaded a video to youtube as I'm kind of stumped as to what it could be, to me it almost sounds like something is lose..haha or maybe that's just wishful thinking, it would definitely be great if it weren't the engine itself making that noise.
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I have been trying to chase down a whirling noise that follows vehicle speed since I bought the truck in my sig in Oct. The noise happens whether or not the hubs are free or locked so I don't think it is the front needle bearings. I just changed the transfer case fluid over to Mobile 1 Syn. and there was no change in the noise. I also changed the front pads, rotors, slide pins and calipers a few weeks ago and that didn't have an effect on the noise either. Today I took the truck for a ride and I'm not sure but it seems almost like the noise is a bit louder! And I noticed that if I hit the brakes firmly, harder than a normal stop the noise gets significantly quieter and if I release them again the noise goes right back to normal. This has got me stumped...
Along with this noise, I have a vibration on the freeway that gets worse around 55 and lets off around 61. Its worse at some speeds and better at others. Thinking the two were related I pulled the rear drive shaft and checked the u-joints and the carrier bearing for play. The carrier bearing doesn't have any real play but there is quite a bit of slop, ability to turn back and forth, where the driveshaft comes out of the transfer case. All but one of the u-joint cups were fine. The bad one isn't even too bad just the rubber seal around it is a little off, there is still grease in it and the needle bearings seem fine.
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Early 99 F250 7.3 Manual 4WD Extended Cab Short Bed
I am at a loss. I have a slight vibration/medium roar seemingly coming from front. I have tried fixing/replacing several things, with no luck. When I get above 35-40 mph, I can hear a whirling vibration that sounds like tire tread noise (very little tread on tires). When I tap the brakes, seems to make a difference, seems to get louder as I slow down. I can feel it in the clutch and accel. pedals. It is consistent, when I push clutch in and let idle at 45mph, it is still there. Doesn't seem to make a difference when swaying back and forth, maybe a little. When i get below 25-30mph it isn't noticeable.
Here is what i've done so far :
1.Replaced both front wheel bearing assemblies, rotors and brakes
2.Replaced drivers side brake caliper (seemed to be sticking a bit?), will do passenger side tomorrow
3.Serviced both hub locks and verified front axle is not engaged (one was locked for some time, I thought I found issue, but still have vibration)
4. Tightened pitman arm joint, was slightly loose (need to replace)
5. Inspected tie rod ends and other joints, see no noticeable movement, but have not marked them off the culprit list.
6. Tightened output shaft nut, was a little loose
7. Raised rear end off on jack stands, and revved up to 50 mph, and no vibration, so I have excluded u joint and cardan joint, everything points to front end
8. Rotated tires, left front to right rear
What I haven't done :
1. Have a leak in pinion seal, not replaced yet
2. Seems the upper and lower ball joint had the slightest, I mean slightest play in it when lifting the front driver side wheel (I mean less than 16th inch) but could hear it. I haven't done anything with this yet ... may be the problem? Would a tire out of balance wreak this much havoc with this amount of movement?
3. Haven't replaced the pitman arm joint, will but not sure if this can create issue.
Nothing I've done seems to make a difference.
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My 2005 Nissan frontier reeks badly.
Has new air filters and new cabin filters. Only seems to smell when driving at 55mph for about 20 minutes, the funk comes from the vents and in all heat/AC and fan modes seems to be less stinky in the winter.
Nothing is dead in the heater box because it does not stink in when driving around town and I have poured gallons of Lysol down the air intake during recic, open vent, etc, Smells like a mix of eggs, oil, and funk.
Dealership says it is not the catalytic converters as they "check out fine" Nissan dealership says it's bad gas, which is unlikely as when I drive away from home and I use other gas, it still smells.so what is it? What is it?
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I have a 2005 Nissan Frontier that recently had a new transmission and radiator installed due to a defect where coolant leaks into the transmission and destroys Nissan transmissions. After I got my truck back it ran fine for about 2 days, then on the third day I started it and the gauges all started going up and down at a speed of about 72 bpm. I shut it off let sit for a few minutes started it and it did this again. I repeated that about 4 times. I let it sit for about 4 hours started it and it was fine for a very short drive (1/2 mile). After about another 2 hours of sitting I tried to start and the battery was dead, my friend jumped it and it drove fine. So it sat for a few days until I had my brother jump it so I could drive to get a new battery. Once it was jumped the moving of the gauges started again.
As I was driving, the gauges kept coming on the going off. I got it to advanced auto and they replaced the battery, it started up drove it for a matter of minutes, then the gauges died and it wouldn’t drive faster than 1 MPH, then engine would rev when I hit the gas. I got it to a parking lot shut it off tried starting it the gauges would come on but as soon as I hit the gas pedal it would rev up but instantly the gauges would shut off and the engine would rev anymore. So I was stuck, got it towed to where the transmission was put in. They couldn't fix it but had to jump it to start it, so the new battery was dead. They towed it to a Nissan dealer and the mechanics are now saying it’s just a bad battery, but this just doesn't make any sense to me.
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I have a 2005 Nissan Frontier with a manual transmission (~6500 pound towing capacity). I rented a large wood chipper this weekend. On the ride home from the rental pickup, the transmission started shuddering when shifting. It is most noticeable when shifting into first gear from a standstill, and less noticeable on each successive shift. Once the gear is fully engaged, there is no shudder - it is only when letting out the clutch that there is the shudder. The truck only has 50k miles on it.
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Our 1999.5 Nissan Pathinder has about 148,000 miles on it. At the end of 2011, we replaced the struts, shocks, and brake pads. We also added a new in-dash stereo with GPS. At the end of 2011, the mechanic recommended replacing the ignition wires, cap/rotor, and spark plugs, all of which were OEM. The mechanic also recommended replacing the power steering belts and serpentine belts, which were cracking. We did not do these repairs in 2011.
At the beginning of February 2012, I drove the car for several miles and then parked for 30 minutes. When I re-started the car, the engine made a thumping sound and the whole car vibrated. The thumping sound was a dull sound (not a pinging). These symptoms occurred in Park. I drove about 100 feet down the parking lot (using both Reverse and Drive) and the thumping sound and vibration continued. I parked and re-started the car. The symptoms continued for about 1/2 mile driving and then went away.
The problem has occurred 2-3 times more. To my knowledge, the problem has only happened when the car has been driven, left standing for 15-60 minutes, and then restarted. Each time the problem goes away shortly after it begins. The third time the problem happened, the "Service Engine Soon" light went on. We took the car to a different garage. The computer showed two codes (Cylinder 2 Misfire, which had been tripped 3 times), and Engine Vibration.
The mechanic recommended doing the service that we had put off in 2011 (ignition wires, cap/rotor, spark plugs, power steering belts, and serpentine belts). The theory was that a misfiring cylinder may have caused the engine vibration. So, we had this service done. The next morning after picking up the car, and again after a short drive, a 30-minute delay, and restarting the engine, the problem happened again. So, it seems that the service did not fix it.
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I have a 2009 Nissan Versa. This morning the ventilation/AC fan started making an awful noise, rather like a Piper Cub at takeoff. It also vibrated strongly, especially at the 3-4 settings. I checked under the hood but saw nothing suspicious, other than a bunch of sunflower seed hulls on top of the suspension bushing/gasket. The noise is coming from behind the dashboard.
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I have a 2001 Nissan Quest that vibrates starting at about 60 mph. I have balanced the wheels more than once. I have had repairs to the suspension. Now I notice that it vibrates only when accelerating or going up hill - not when the foot is off the gas pedal. What repairs should I accept or reject?
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My 1990 nissan pathfinder 4x4 has a bad vibration shakes all over when driving at steady speed around 50 to 55 mph, it goes away when you let up on the gas and when you accelerate.
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It is a '90 Nissan Maxima. I just replaced my drivers side axle (cv joint was clicking), and now my car vibrates at highway speeds when turning right. I am pretty sure I seated the axle correctly....could it be a bad axle? I heard that turning the axle 90 degrees and reinstalling may work? I got a new axle (Empi brand).
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I've found a bad engine mount over the passenger front wheel I'm replacing (why they had to put the 5th nut holding the mount underneath the mount instead of on top like the rest, i'll never know. drilling that out and replacing with a bolt and nut on top to fix that and going to slap an engineer). There's no wheel balance issues or wobbly wheels when up on the lift. Recently replaced my spark plugs, could it be a misfire that causes this when the engine is being pushed past 3K rpms?
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Car just hit 161,000km and all has been running well except for 1 nagging issue and 1 new one.First the nagging issue.
In January, I put on Continental DWS tires on the Phaeton and soon thereafter noticed a vibration in the car while driving. I could feel it in the steering wheel and could see the passenger headrest vibrating as well.
I saw some posts on these tires from other Phaeton owners saying that they also experienced some vibration, so that's what I thought it was.
At least that's what I thought until I went to the dealer for an oil change. I asked them to check wheel balancing and they told me at least 2 of the tires were way out of balance and they fixed it but there is still some vibration.
They did a test drive and said since the vibration is coming from the center of the car, it could be the driveshaft? They told me it's a problem with the Touregs but not with the Phaeton.
It's been killing an otherwise great ride for the last 6 months.
Also, I had my TPMS sensors replaced last year and it's been working great.
However last week, it went off, I clicked to reset and it reset with both rear tires and trunk showing OK. The front tires show a reading but instead of OK beside both, it's completely blank and the damn TPMS goes off every time I start the car.
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