Nissan - Versa :: Accidentally Put Wrong Gas In Tank
Apr 22, 2011
By accident i put E85 in my nissan versa. according to manual book my engine is not fitted for this kind of fuel- can i still drive to my mechanic and get the tank drained or do i need to tow the car or can i use up the gas.
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I was stopped at a red light and when it was time to go, I pressed the gas and instead of driving forward the car coasted backward. I went back and forth between the break and the gas two more times. Same result. The engine didn't rev. After a momentary panic I put on my hazard lights, put the car in park, turned the car completely off and then on again. When I put it back into drive it went forward like a good little car and I was able to turn onto a residential street and park.
What happened?
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I have a 2009 Nissan Versa. This morning the ventilation/AC fan started making an awful noise, rather like a Piper Cub at takeoff. It also vibrated strongly, especially at the 3-4 settings. I checked under the hood but saw nothing suspicious, other than a bunch of sunflower seed hulls on top of the suspension bushing/gasket. The noise is coming from behind the dashboard.
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For a few months, when the AC is running for a little while, it would hum loudly. If I turned the AC off, after a few minutes, it would stop. When I turned it back on, a few minutes after running again, it would start that loud humming again. While driving down the freeway this evening, my AC stopped blowing. When the car is in idle and the AC is turned on, you can hear something trying to "run", but no air comes out. What this could be?
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I've got a noticeable clicking that I can feel under my feet when I make a turn. It's not there all the time, seems to be worse on rainy days. My first thought was that it was the CV joint, but when I took it in today they put it on the lift and said that the boot is fine.
Could the joint still be bad if they can't see a problem with the boot? Should I take it somewhere else? It just seems pretty likely to be the CV joint, but I suppose it could be something else. I drive a 2007 Nissan Versa with about 48,000 miles.
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I have a 2007 Nissan Versa and my AC will only run on the highest setting. The dealership suggested that the whole panel with AC dials needed to be replaced, they did say they were not sure this was the problem. In doing some research on the web I did see discussion regarding a Nissan Altima that had what sound like a similar problem and the fix was a part called the "blower resistor" which was much cheaper and could be fixed at home.
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I have a 2007 Nissan Versa, which I love. The AC automatically comes on when you turn on the defroster, but the light on the button will not go off when I turn on the heat. I assume that means the AC stays on as well. It has been doing this all winter, so I have been trying not to use the heat. As I understand it, my husband was at the dealer and the mechanic said something about having to hold the button down for 20 seconds to reset something, but I have tried this and it does not work.
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I need to change the cabin filter in my 2010 Nissan Versa in about 1,300 miles and I can't figure out where it goes.
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I have a 2010 Versa with nitrogen filled tires and the tire pressure light always turns on when the weather gets cold. It did it last year too and I took it to the dealership and they checked the pressure on the tire and added a little nitrogen and the light turned off and stayed off. Now mind you, I've driven this car cross country, no tire problems, and haven't had any since then until the weather got cold again. What is going on? The dealership said they can reset the sensor on it but will charge me.
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I have a 2012 Nissan Versa with a 1.6 Engine/CVT transmission. When going down a steep hill the RPMs rev up to at least 3000 or more...is this normal for a car to do this?
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My car started making a weird like shhddddhshdshhhdddshhddd when I press on the gass. I am super paranoid bc last year they replaced the lower engine block bc of my oil mixing with the coolent. I need to replace my tires, could that be a factor? Iam a girl who knows nothing about cars.
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The little window on my gear stick (the car is an automatic) is broken, and so when I shifted into Drive (D) I did not realize I actually shifted into "2" which is right below that. I drove on the highway for about 15 miles between 60-70 mph before I finally figured out that the source of the noise (basically it just sounded like the car was revving and straining up a hill the whole time. Since we just had the car worked on, I thought it was related to that). Once I realized I was in 2 I slowed down and shifted to D.
Everything seemed fine until I got off the highway. At the stoplight off the exit ramp, I went to turn right on red after coming to a full stop and nothing happened. It seemed the engine stalled, although I did not feel any shuddering or tell-tale signs that it was about to stall. The radio did not hiccup and the windshield wipers kept going without pause, but the car was essentially off, as it didn't even rev when I put my foot on the gas. I restarted it and drove home with no issues.
The next day when we took it out, we noticed a clicking sound. Not a single click, but a continuous sound, like an enhanced version of a playing card on the wheel of a bicycle. It doesn't seem to matter what rpm, what speed, the sound is present, although not necessarily consistently on. When we press the accelerator or ease off, we get a burst of the sound. Sometimes at higher speeds it is more consistent, occasionally when idly we can hear it softly in the background. No stalling occurred that day.
Tonight I drove it to work, which is a 20 minute drive on the highway. What started off as the playing card/bicycle sound soon turned into a sound that is reminiscent of a roller coaster being pulled up the first giant hill. Sort of a faster cranking sound. Then again, without preamble or warning, it stalled when I came to a stop off the exit to my workplace.
I haven't checked anything under the hood. The oil was changed almost 4000 miles ago. I don't even know what to begin checking first. I just put $ into the vehicle to fix it after an uninsured driver hit me (fender bender) and am still waiting on court proceedings from that..
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I have a 2010 Nissan Versa and its been getting cold which is normal this time of year. The other morning I went out to warm the car up before taking my son to the bus stop and the door was frozen shut, not just the handle but I couldn't open up my door at all. It was frozen from the inside. I was thinking that because it rained the previous day and the seal around the door got a little wet from the rain when I opened it and didn't dry before it got really chilly and that's what caused it to stick. So I'm wondering, if this happens again, which I'm sure it will....what's a good way to unstick the door? The other morning, I opened up the back the car (it's a hatchback) and crawled in, started the car and cranked the heater up and that seemed to work, but there are some mornings that the whole car is a big block of ice.
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I have recently done some work on my car. I had a clunking noise and needed new rotors, warped. I found out I had a broken coil spring, left front, which I have discovered is fairly common for this car, this was the clunking noise.. About 100k on it. I put on new brake pads, ceramic, and rotors and when I drove the car there was a horrible screeching sound from the left front wheel. Not a sound from the right front. I drove it the first day thinking they would quiet down. They did not.
I took pads off and placed lubricant on the back sides of them, reassembled and drove, no change, still as loud as before. I took all of the brake stuff off and turned the axle and the noise was still there. I changed the wheel bearing thinking that this could be the only thing that would make such a noise. No change with the new wheel bearing! Same noise just as before! I didn't think that this noise could be a half shaft as I thought they mostly made a grinding noise. This is definitely a scraping metal sound, pulses with wheel revolution. I am at a loss as what could be causing this noise.
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My 2013 Nissan Versa SV has some kinda almost-clear sheet of plastic (I think it is; I don't think it's glass) hanging parallel to the doors underneath the car. I can't tell you if it's part of the car or somehow got hooked up into it. I wouldn't have noticed it had it not been making a noise, typically when I first start it up. After I stick in Drive the noise disappears until I'm at a stop light. So for the most part, it's only when it's in Neutral that I actually hear the problem. It's not a problem if I don't hear it.
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I have recently noticed that if I am driving at speeds above 40 mph and apply the brakes, the car (including the steering wheel) seems to buck/shake. I've learned to ease off the gas and let the speed drop before applying the brakes-- this seems to work, but I'm concerned about what is going on. This is an '07 Nissan Versa...
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Still chugging along!!
So, I haven't been the kindest car owner to my poor little hatchback. I do my best to get regular oil changes, but other than replacing the brakes last year, I have not kept up with most of the manufacturer's suggested regularly scheduled maintenance. The car has about 130,000 miles. Manual Transmission. My clutch feels a little loose, and I have been noticing a slight grinding sound when shifting (only from neutral to first gear).
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I let a friend drive my is350 awd. He usually drives manual so I pretty much assumed he would be comfortable with tiptronic. I put the car in tiptronic at a red light and then he started to try and shift the gears as if it was a manual. He accidentally put the car into PARK as it was driving at about 50 km/h. This lasted for about 20 seconds before I was able to put the car back into Drive. Soon after we parked the car back into my garage, I am pretty worried as I know this isn't supposed to happen and I don't know how back the car could be messed up.
I currently only have 500 km on the odometer.
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My 1992 Nissan Primera 2.0 slx is overheating, probably on its last legs. First time this happened the radiator overflow tank seemed low so I topped it up with glycerol and added some leak plugger to the radiator for good measure. The car drove just fine for 20-30km then it happened again. At the same time, and I don't know if this is relevant, the windscreen defroster, which should bleed warm engine air, now only gives cold.
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I drive a 2005 Jetta GLI 1.8T 6 speed O2M transmission.
I was redlining 1st 2nd and it wouldn't go into 3rd tried 2-3 times finally did. but I believe it went into first instead! I think I was driving like 50-60 mpg I don't know. Anyways it JERKED BADLY. I think right after it started making a noise. sounds like the manifold or downpipe gasket. I know the flex part of my cheap downpipe started like tearing and ripping, so I thought that just broke thru. maybe I don't know. I drove the car home. tranny worked flawlessly. every gear very smooth like always. (redline tranny fluid). at home I jacked it up took the bumper off. and listened where the sounds were coming from. not power steering. it sounds like a hose is loose. but I checked nothing. I put my ear next to the tranny. sounds like it coming from there. nothing changes when I depress the clutch. when I start driving the sound goes away I think. can't hear the cause of aftermarket exhaust. and stage 2 chip tunning APR 93.
After all, that believing it the downpipe. I put everything back on and drove it about 10 miles and this other sound came in. happened in 2nd after like 4-5krpm. maybe it was there from the beginning. I drove it slowly under 3k. but this sound is like rattling and kinda vibrates the clutch a little. it happens after I accelerate and take my foot off the gas pedal. kinda when slowing down. I drove parked the car 2 hours later drove it home and 2-5th gear was making this rattling sound now.
I don't know what to do. I need to drive a car. should I drive it or not? do I need a new tranny/ is it fixable? should I park the car and take the tranny off/
how tightly are the flywheel bolts suppose to be tightened? something loose?
I did an auto to 6-speed swap.
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I have a Nissan 300zx Twin Turbo 1993, the gas Tank was leaking gas at the bottom of the tank, and I patched the leak with regular materials I found in Advance Auto Parts. But after few weeks, the gas tank leaked again. The question is it easy to remove the Fuel Tank and replace it with a new Fuel Tank? or how should I repair it without removing it, before I patched it. I am savvy enough to work in cars, but I never removed Fuel Tank before.
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