Nissan - Sentra :: Brake Pads Squeaking In Reverse
Oct 18, 2016
Got new Nissan brake pads out in by my local mechanic. I noticed they squeak a little going slowly in reverse. Why and what I can do?
View 7 RepliesGot new Nissan brake pads out in by my local mechanic. I noticed they squeak a little going slowly in reverse. Why and what I can do?
View 7 RepliesMy wife always chastises me for not coming to a complete stop from backing up before I shift the car into drive. I do not shift when the car is still moving more than 1-2 MPH, in fact it is barely moving when I change gears. My wife insists that I come to a complete stop and wait 1-2 seconds before shifting from reverse to drive. She is convinced that I am doing damage to the transmission the way I shift. I insist that no damage is being done and point out that with over 100,000 miles there have been no transmission problems with the car. Am I damaging the transmission by shifting before I come to a complete stop in reverse?
View 9 RepliesMy friend told me for the past year she has been having trouble with her sentra. she has taken it to the dealer & they could not figure out whats going on. So here is what she described to me. '02 nissan sentra exe with 54k miles. when she gets to a stop light/sign and the car is at idle, it stalls. she said it stalls when slowly going in reverse out of her driveway and when she slows down to pull into her driveway. the check engine light has never turned on and the car starts back up again right away. What is going on?
View 6 RepliesSo my brakes have been squeaking for the past week. Brought it in to the dealership. They said i need new front brake pads. I only have 22k miles on my 3is and that seems like a really look mileage for the breaks to be worn off. I dont track ny car and i pretty much drive slow. How long are your brake pads lasting? Is this normal for the 3is pads to wear off this fast?
View 14 RepliesMy son was hearing a bit of a squeaking on the passenger side. So I decided after some time to pull the front wheel. (most important brake). Well the pad wasn't moving on the outer guides (serviced it as required and lubed to get it moving). But the lower guide pin wouldn't move in/out. Needed to drift it out and it was very well rusted end to end. I put new pads on early as year I am sure and all was fine. I cleaned the pin on my wire wheel grinder. That lower pin had a collar near then end. Turns out its rubber, I thought it was a metal spring collar. Oh well the wire wheel did a number on it. I don't know the significant of that piece nor whether the pin is in the right place since the top one is different. I do these one at a time so its almost impossible I swapped them in the number of times they've been out.
I never seen so much tightening on any vehicle of pads and pins rusting in as on this vehicle. One has to wonder why. My vehicle also seems to have or what sound like a gear slap upon engaging in reverse or forward from front and back which is most notable after sitting and first engaged. Not every time but this is built in 2007 and there is a TSB for some washers. Hyundai Canada does NOT use the same TSB number they have their own. I talked to a dealer about it but he never indicated it would be the cause only its a different number. I am not impressed in this AWD drive power train. It needs a lot of TLC and the slap I hear is typically due to power train engagement play/slack being excessive most likely due to wear somewhere.. Even my rear sound off not a howl but noisy running which doesn't change with road surfaces so its not the tires. Maybe the AWD bearing or unit going. No of this should even remotely close to needed anything for at least another 100-150k at least.
I recently replaced all of my brake pads with yellow stuff and they seem to be squeaking a lot. I also noticed when I am driving and I stop and let off of the brakes they don't release immediately so could it be this is the cause of the squeaks or do these brake pads just squeak like crazy? I read somewhere it could possibly be the brake lines but I don't see how this could be the cause for so much squeaking.
My truck is a 2011 F 250 diesel crew cab....
We had approximately 7000 miles on our 2014 250 when we first heard our squeaking when we applied the brakes. This happened after we had been driving a while. Took it to the dealer to see what was causing the noise. They found out it was the front brakes. They removed both front wheels to find the inner pads wearing at an angle and the caliper piston boots partly melted in middle. They ended up replacing the brake pads and calipers with new and machined rotors.
View 14 RepliesI have Nissan Sentra GXE year 2000 model and it has 143K miles on it. I get a hammering noise on the front passenger side wheel when I apply brake. I did replace caliper, brake master cylinder, rotors, brake pads and brake shims but no luck. The noise is like "ta ta ta ta.." and it gets louder based on speed of car. Brake pads and rotors been replaced 3 times in last 2 years to get rid of noise and been seen by 4 mechanics so far no one could find the exact problem. I also took the car to Nissan dealership they also recommend changing brake pad and rotors which I already did thrice.
View 5 RepliesI recently had rotors and brake pads replaced on my 2007 Camry (front pads/rotors and read pads/rotors).
It was done last week and she is braking fine. But sometimes now when I brake there's a low-medium squeaking sound from the brakes. Is this normal / what's the likely cause?
I have a 98 Nissan Sentra every now and then when I get in it to start it I get nothing but if I hold it or turn it to the off position a few times it will start, what this could be....
View 11 RepliesI have a 2000 Nissan sentra and I have times when I will drive for couple days and then it won't start it will just crank over and over but won't fire I have had it to several people but no answer replaced the fuel pump relay switch but nothing
View 5 Replies I've got a 1997 Nissan Sentra GXE (Standard). Recently, my car decided to stop starting. Here are some of the symptoms:
1) If I would go down a hill and come to a stop, or even if I was slowing down to come to a stop at a stop sign or light, my car would turn off over 50% of the time. It would usually always start back up, until last week. My car turned off as I was slowing down to turn into the mall. I was able to coast into the parking lot.
2) When I turn the key it clicks and makes a "rrrrrr" "rrrrrrr" sound.
3) I was able to get the car started once after I pumped the gas so I don't think it's a fuel pump issue.
4) The automatic windows, lights, and radio still work so I'm ruling out a battery or alternator issue either.
5) My car couldn't be jumped or push-started.
My brakes are squealing; going to replace pad or lining; what is typical cost?
View 4 RepliesThree mechanics have given us three different opinions about what is wrong with our 2003 Nissan Sentra. I'd like to hear from the Car Talk community.The problem started when our car began to shake when we drove above 40 miles per hour. We got the radiator replaced. However, the car still would not always start. We took it to the Nissan dealership. The mechanic there said it needed a new fuel pump.
We took it to mechanic #2 for a lower-cost fuel pump replacement. However, the car has started every time for them. So they cannot be confident that there is something wrong with the fuel pump. The fuel pressure does drop off after turning the key off. This mechanic said our main problem is that there is antifreeze in cylinders No. 2 and 3 of the engine (likely from when our radiator broke). There is either a crack in the cylinders or the head gasket has failed. They are estimating $1,200 to $1,600 to fix this. They said if we don't take care of this, the antifreeze will continue to circulate and damage the engine further.
The Nissan dealership says if there were antifreeze in the engine, the check engine light would have come on. Also, they say they would have noticed if there were antifreeze in the cylinders. Their opinion is the fuel pump is only thing that needs to be fixed.
We then called mechanic #3 to get another opinion. This mechanic specializes in Hondas/Toyotas/Nissans. He hasn't looked at the car yet, but he thinks that the motor could be damaged since the car was shaking when the radiator broke. He says he thinks it is unlikely that the fuel pump needs replacing, and he thinks the check engine light would not detect the antifreeze in the engine.
Fuel pump, antifreeze in cylinders, or motor? Or all three? What do you think?The car has about 85,000 miles on it.
My car has been working okay. But this morning when i was taking my mom to work. When i pulled into her jobs parking lot i heard a loud sound. I didn't pay any attention to it because the car still acted fine as it been. That was around 7 or 8 this morning. Then around 4 when it's time to pick my mama up. I got in the car it started right up. But i notice that it was jerking or vibrating real bad (but it always vibrates). Then when i started driving it i had to force it to go. When i came to a complete stop at red lights the car was acting like it was trying to cut off and it was jerking and vibrating out of control. It was doing that so much that i had to put it in park and run the motor to keep it going then when the light turned green i put it in drive and it still was acting up. It was so bad that i had to turn around and slowly get it back. I notice though that i smelled something burning. When i parked back at home it was smoke coming from the lights and hood. I know it didn't overheat i didn't have it on for that long maybe 10 minutes at the most. We just got a oil job not too long ago and the service engine light is on. The light has been on for a while now. But before we knew it was the crank shaft sensor. We keep replacing that but that continues to go bad. I really need to know what is possibly keeping my car from picking up speed and why is it smoking? We use this car for everything. My car is a 2001 nissan sentra.
View 17 RepliesI have a USDM 2004 Nissan Sentra SE-R Spec V that has bad tie-rod ends (both inner and outer). I plan on changing them on both sides, however, I was told that I would have to change the boots as well. Are they talking about the strut boots and, if so, how many would I need to change and which ones? (When I went on [URL], it was stating that there are front and rear ones).
View 1 RepliesHave been working on this car for a few weeks now; 93 nissan sentra 1.6L. The gas+oil under the plugs was the original problem. We took the plugs out and tried to start the car a few times to shoot the gas+oil out of the cylinders. All the cylinders would fill up again right after we were done though. So we changed the fuel pressure regulator and they stopped filling up. Changed the oil+filter because they were contaminated with gas. Started it with starter fluid and the problems kept coming.
The catalytic converter was clogged and red hot so I cleaned it all out removing the platinum and put it back in as a empty pipe.Now when it started cylinders 1+2 wouldn't fire and wouldn't kill the engine when i removed the wire from the cylinder when it was running. It was misfiring and sounded terrible but it ran.So i thought it might be the fuel injectors. I was about to check them out today but then there was gas+oil under the plugs again causing hydrolock and it wouldn't start today. Took the plugs out so the cylinders could dry, but I am lost on where to go next.
The timing chain on my 94 Nissan Sentra XE 1.6L has jumped. The car will not start and when you do try and start it just lopes and then sounds like it wants to start and goes back to loping. BTW, it has 249K on it. I have removed the front cam shaft cover. The chain is intact and looks good, but can be depressed with the finger. Upon closer inspection the chain has cut a very noticeable groove into the tensioner. There is also a noticeable groove in the upper chain guide. The question here is, can I just replace the tensioner and the guides (there are two of them), without changing out the chain. One other question I have is there a possibility that I could have damaged a valve after trying to trying to start the car with the jumped chain. Someone told my that this possible, but I have also read on the NIssan Forums that damaging/bending a valve would occur only if the chain had actually broke and I tried to start it or manually (by hand) advancing the crankshaft will attempt to get to TDC?
View 6 RepliesI have a 99 Nissan Sentra. It does not start when parked under the sun or when the weather is hot. It starts great in the morning when it is cool. The battery is new. When the car does not start, the lights come on OK (engine check light et al.), but there is no sound, no clicking ( that I can hear), no nothing happens. I heard from a mechanic that I need to change the distributor; another said that it is the starter.
View 6 RepliesA friend of mine has a '97 Nissan Sentra and up until recently, it ran fine. Now the car needs to be refilled with 2 to 3 quarts of oil after being driven less than 100 miles. A mechanic looked at the car and said that there were no oil leaks and that the car didn't emit much blue smoke. After looking over the car a second time, the mechanic said that the number 2 cylinder needs new oil rings. A friend doesn't believe that oil rings can disintegrate so quickly.
View 6 RepliesThe clutch is slipping in my 2007 Nissan Sentra 2.0 with 51,000+ miles. It only does it on 90F+ days after driving around for at least 30 minutes. Can it really be clutch wear so early or is there another likely culprit?
View 1 Replies