There have been two instances where I have shut the car off and then it is dead when I try to restart. Not even any clicking. After it sits, it may start again. We replaced the battery, but the car wouldn't start again. Same symptoms... No clicking, or anything like that. Nissan dealer says the battery is fine and if it happens again, replace the battery because maybe it's faulty.
View 3 RepliesI have a 2000 Nissan sentra and I have times when I will drive for couple days and then it won't start it will just crank over and over but won't fire I have had it to several people but no answer replaced the fuel pump relay switch but nothing
View 5 RepliesI own a 1993 Nissan Sentra (2 Dr, SE, red:-). I've owned it for 17 years and has been a fantastic car. until March of this year when I had to replace the transmission at odometer reading of 121,xxx. Everything has been fine up until about a month ago when I returned to my car after working out at the gym...and it refused to start. No clicking, no hemming or hawwing, just nothing. The lights worked, the seat belt alarm worked, all dashboard lights worked. But absolutely no connection to anything. I tried moving the steering wheel, juggled the key, etc. but nothing.
So I called a tow truck. Thirty minutes later, he arrived, sat down in my driver's seat and magically, it started with no problems. It has happened again only once since that time, but I can never trust that she will start when I need to go to work, etc. I took it to a garage..they told me that they couldn't fix it or find anything wrong unless it was "in the throes" of not working. ...which is ridiculous because it could very possibly not start, have it towed, arrive at the garage, and she might start right up.
I have a 2006 Nissan Sentra 1.8l. I had a bad tensioner and old belts. I replaced both belts with the Dayco polyribbed belts and put on a new tensioner pulley. All went well and engine noise is gone; however, when starting the engine I get a squeak in one of the belts. I've tightened each belt a bit more several times. I still get one short squeak every time I start the car. I loosened one belt so I could spin the waterpump by hand. It felt and sounded fine. Do I have a problem here or are these Dayco belts prone to this? The old belts were gator belts. I suppose I could swap them back and see if squeak disappears.
View 18 RepliesI am having issues with my 02 Nissan Sentra turning over when I am starting the car. First for some background my car has almost exactly 115k miles on it. I have noticed the problem is getting slowly worse and worse. What happens is when I turn the key the engine makes a slow grrrr and rev sound, then a slighty faster grrr and rev, followed by a faster one before it finally turns over. There have been instances before when I have have to give it a good two or three times before it would turn over at all. I am not sure what is causing the problem. I do have one idea is that recently my gas mileage has been going down so I added Techron from the auto shop before 2 of my last 3 fillups (I didn't on the last fill up since I was having the issues) Could that cause the problem? Other than that I am thinking maybe something with the battery (its a bit over 3 years old) or the spark plugs or fuel pump would be my best bet? I tried to take an audio recording of the issue but you have to really turn up the volume to hear the low lever grrr and revs before the car starts.
View 2 RepliesI drive a 2008 nissan sentra (98xxxmiles). I commute 100 miles daily and have an issue that occurs only when it is snowing. Regardless of how much snow is on the ground, every time there is decent snow fall my car will randomly buck. feels almost as though my transmission slips for just an instant and then regains control. for a while, i had to study this issue before i could fully wrap my head around it. I took the car to my shop and they could detect nothing wrong with the car, which is definitely not the case. I suspect that there is an issue with a sensor or an actuator involved with the overdrive that is having the issue. But I could be wrong.
View 11 RepliesI turned my car on and put it in gear and I realized I was not moving. I put it back in park and tested my brakes but it felt like my brakes were already pushed all the way down to the floor. I also noticed my engine light on. I turned my car off and turned it back on and everything was okay. This happened once before a month ago. I have an 08 Sentra.
View 6 RepliesI have a 2008 Nissan Sentra with 90-something thousand miles on it. Last summer I moved from Texas to Oregon, so it went through 125° Arizona heat (during which overdrive stopped working for a while) and mountains for the first time. Ever since then, if starting from a parked position, I can't go over hills or bumps or even curbs. I can IF I was already driving on a flat surface. But if I stop on an incline and then try to drive forward (or reverse up it), I can't. The RPMs don't go above ~1.5k until I'm back on a flat surface.
The check engine light is on, and has been on since last summer, but the code it spits out is something dealership specific. People have told me it "might be something with the transmission". The problem hasn't gotten better or worse since last summer, so I just ignored it and got really good at not stopping before steep inclines or hitting curbs or anything (lol). But if I ever need to, I'll be in huge trouble. I can't even drive over medium sized rocks if I park too close to them.
The first time I found out about this was when I pulled into a friend's downhill driveway last summer, and then couldn't reverse out of it. He had to push it back up.
Note: from a stop, it will go up GRADUAL hills and over SMALL bumps just fine, but anything that takes more than 1.5k RPMs to overcome isn't happening. It will go up steeper hills and larger bumps (and curbs) only if I was already driving, but it still can't tackle the steepest mountain road inclines like other cars can.
The 1.5k RPM problem goes away when it's on a flat surface (or if I started driving on a flat surface before encountering a hill), and it accelerates normally again. However... It also takes a couple of seconds to rev beyond 1.5k RPMs after stopping at a red light.
Two wheel drive, small engine with two spark plugs per cylinder...clutch with five speed transmission. Over two hundred thousand miles on it. Drove it thirty miles on a rainy evening. Shut it off for about one hour and when I tried to restart, it just went click. Got towed thirty miles home. Replaced starter with brand new one and also new battery. Still nothing but click-click. Does start from clutch engagement when rolling. The trouble seems to be somewhere between the starter and the battery. What to do?
View 3 RepliesI am at my wit's end with my 2008 Nissan Pathfinder. In the last four months we have had periodic problems starting it. It will act like it wants to crank but won't fire up. However, a local mechanic and the Nissan dealer can't determine the problem. They have: ~ recharged the battery ~ replaced the battery cables ~ replaced the spark plugs ~ tested the fuel pressure ~ replaced the ECM relay ~ replaced the adjusted steering angle sensor Of course, it starts right up at the shop so they can't duplicate the problem.
View 3 RepliesMy 2005 STX 4.6 fuel pump crashed a couple of months ago. A couple of days after having it replaced I started having hard/rough starting problems accompanied by a 0300 and 0301 code. I reset the codes several times and they only come back during the 3rd or 4th hard start, never while driving. The hard starts occur after the engine is shut off for more than a few minutes after driving. I have replaced the plugs, #1 COP, remaining COP boots, Cam Pos Sensor, Fuel pump drive module and had and FI. Also had the fuel pump replaced again on warranty thinking maybe a bad check valve. Again...it worked perfectly for a day and now I'm back to square one. Haven't gotten any codes YET but its only been a day. Bad injector? EGR?
View 1 RepliesI have a 98 Nissan Sentra every now and then when I get in it to start it I get nothing but if I hold it or turn it to the off position a few times it will start, what this could be....
View 11 Replies I've got a 1997 Nissan Sentra GXE (Standard). Recently, my car decided to stop starting. Here are some of the symptoms:
1) If I would go down a hill and come to a stop, or even if I was slowing down to come to a stop at a stop sign or light, my car would turn off over 50% of the time. It would usually always start back up, until last week. My car turned off as I was slowing down to turn into the mall. I was able to coast into the parking lot.
2) When I turn the key it clicks and makes a "rrrrrr" "rrrrrrr" sound.
3) I was able to get the car started once after I pumped the gas so I don't think it's a fuel pump issue.
4) The automatic windows, lights, and radio still work so I'm ruling out a battery or alternator issue either.
5) My car couldn't be jumped or push-started.
My brakes are squealing; going to replace pad or lining; what is typical cost?
View 4 RepliesThree mechanics have given us three different opinions about what is wrong with our 2003 Nissan Sentra. I'd like to hear from the Car Talk community.The problem started when our car began to shake when we drove above 40 miles per hour. We got the radiator replaced. However, the car still would not always start. We took it to the Nissan dealership. The mechanic there said it needed a new fuel pump.
We took it to mechanic #2 for a lower-cost fuel pump replacement. However, the car has started every time for them. So they cannot be confident that there is something wrong with the fuel pump. The fuel pressure does drop off after turning the key off. This mechanic said our main problem is that there is antifreeze in cylinders No. 2 and 3 of the engine (likely from when our radiator broke). There is either a crack in the cylinders or the head gasket has failed. They are estimating $1,200 to $1,600 to fix this. They said if we don't take care of this, the antifreeze will continue to circulate and damage the engine further.
The Nissan dealership says if there were antifreeze in the engine, the check engine light would have come on. Also, they say they would have noticed if there were antifreeze in the cylinders. Their opinion is the fuel pump is only thing that needs to be fixed.
We then called mechanic #3 to get another opinion. This mechanic specializes in Hondas/Toyotas/Nissans. He hasn't looked at the car yet, but he thinks that the motor could be damaged since the car was shaking when the radiator broke. He says he thinks it is unlikely that the fuel pump needs replacing, and he thinks the check engine light would not detect the antifreeze in the engine.
Fuel pump, antifreeze in cylinders, or motor? Or all three? What do you think?The car has about 85,000 miles on it.
My car has been working okay. But this morning when i was taking my mom to work. When i pulled into her jobs parking lot i heard a loud sound. I didn't pay any attention to it because the car still acted fine as it been. That was around 7 or 8 this morning. Then around 4 when it's time to pick my mama up. I got in the car it started right up. But i notice that it was jerking or vibrating real bad (but it always vibrates). Then when i started driving it i had to force it to go. When i came to a complete stop at red lights the car was acting like it was trying to cut off and it was jerking and vibrating out of control. It was doing that so much that i had to put it in park and run the motor to keep it going then when the light turned green i put it in drive and it still was acting up. It was so bad that i had to turn around and slowly get it back. I notice though that i smelled something burning. When i parked back at home it was smoke coming from the lights and hood. I know it didn't overheat i didn't have it on for that long maybe 10 minutes at the most. We just got a oil job not too long ago and the service engine light is on. The light has been on for a while now. But before we knew it was the crank shaft sensor. We keep replacing that but that continues to go bad. I really need to know what is possibly keeping my car from picking up speed and why is it smoking? We use this car for everything. My car is a 2001 nissan sentra.
View 17 RepliesI have a USDM 2004 Nissan Sentra SE-R Spec V that has bad tie-rod ends (both inner and outer). I plan on changing them on both sides, however, I was told that I would have to change the boots as well. Are they talking about the strut boots and, if so, how many would I need to change and which ones? (When I went on [URL], it was stating that there are front and rear ones).
View 1 RepliesHave been working on this car for a few weeks now; 93 nissan sentra 1.6L. The gas+oil under the plugs was the original problem. We took the plugs out and tried to start the car a few times to shoot the gas+oil out of the cylinders. All the cylinders would fill up again right after we were done though. So we changed the fuel pressure regulator and they stopped filling up. Changed the oil+filter because they were contaminated with gas. Started it with starter fluid and the problems kept coming.
The catalytic converter was clogged and red hot so I cleaned it all out removing the platinum and put it back in as a empty pipe.Now when it started cylinders 1+2 wouldn't fire and wouldn't kill the engine when i removed the wire from the cylinder when it was running. It was misfiring and sounded terrible but it ran.So i thought it might be the fuel injectors. I was about to check them out today but then there was gas+oil under the plugs again causing hydrolock and it wouldn't start today. Took the plugs out so the cylinders could dry, but I am lost on where to go next.
The timing chain on my 94 Nissan Sentra XE 1.6L has jumped. The car will not start and when you do try and start it just lopes and then sounds like it wants to start and goes back to loping. BTW, it has 249K on it. I have removed the front cam shaft cover. The chain is intact and looks good, but can be depressed with the finger. Upon closer inspection the chain has cut a very noticeable groove into the tensioner. There is also a noticeable groove in the upper chain guide. The question here is, can I just replace the tensioner and the guides (there are two of them), without changing out the chain. One other question I have is there a possibility that I could have damaged a valve after trying to trying to start the car with the jumped chain. Someone told my that this possible, but I have also read on the NIssan Forums that damaging/bending a valve would occur only if the chain had actually broke and I tried to start it or manually (by hand) advancing the crankshaft will attempt to get to TDC?
View 6 RepliesI have a 99 Nissan Sentra. It does not start when parked under the sun or when the weather is hot. It starts great in the morning when it is cool. The battery is new. When the car does not start, the lights come on OK (engine check light et al.), but there is no sound, no clicking ( that I can hear), no nothing happens. I heard from a mechanic that I need to change the distributor; another said that it is the starter.
View 6 RepliesA friend of mine has a '97 Nissan Sentra and up until recently, it ran fine. Now the car needs to be refilled with 2 to 3 quarts of oil after being driven less than 100 miles. A mechanic looked at the car and said that there were no oil leaks and that the car didn't emit much blue smoke. After looking over the car a second time, the mechanic said that the number 2 cylinder needs new oil rings. A friend doesn't believe that oil rings can disintegrate so quickly.
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