Nissan - Sentra :: 2004 - When Push The Accelerator Car Does Not Speed Up Or Rev Up
Mar 1, 2011
Today I drove this car to my wife's work to change cars with her, everything seemed fine. Later this evening when my wife went to drive home, the car had trouble starting. Once she got it started, pushing the accelerator did very little. She kept the car running, I went to see her and drove the care basically a couple of hundred of feet. When you push the accelerator, the car does not speed up or rev up. The accelerator feels as it normally does, not sticking, not loose. When I switch the car into second, it continues to operate but no speed up however, you can sense that it is not comfortable being in second gear. My feeling is that it is a fuel injection problem, but might there be something else?
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I recently picked up a 2001 Nissan sentra. This car sat since around 2010. I guess the previous owner had a lot of work done by the dealer a year or so ago and it looks it, brake pads etc. are brand new, a couple other things look new but he's not a car guy in the slightest and can't find the receipt nor will the dealer give him one due to computer system change and I actually tried with them myself, that's correct.
Anyway, the check engine light is on and bringing it home we had reports of black smoke out the exhaust. It also felt like it wanted to stall at times when stopped but it never did. Well, I ran it a while and at times it seemed like it wanted to clear up, at others it didn't but the light stayed on and what not. I scanned it and it claimed the O2 sensor 1 bank 2 was bad so I replaced it.
It didn't make any difference so I cleaned the Mass Air flow sensor. Again no good it's the same. Here's the funny thing though, it's great first thing in the morning usually. As the day goes on and as we drive it, it gets worse. What I can try/change next?
I'm almost leaning on electrical issue where it gets worse as the day goes on and dew dries off. I'm new to Nissan's, I like the car and really want to work this issue out. I did replace the fuel pump when I got the car, and have run sea foam through and actually on that tank of gas it ran pretty good but that's worked itself out now.
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After driving for about 15 minutes the car starts to lurch. regardless of the speed. it gets worse if and when i accelerate. If i rev up the engine, it feels like a lose in power and also like something in the engine is skipping. I changed fuel filter under the hood and the strainer on the fuel pump (not the fuel pump) thinking they might have been clogged up and the engine wasn't getting enough fuel.
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My car (Nissan 1998) runs normally for miles. Then sometimes it just starts lurching while in motion when the gas is depressed and looses speed, as if not getting fuel. Previous times it dies after this. The last time I was on the highway going 70 and I pulled over before it lost power and died completely. Just had new brakes installed, new distributor, all new belts, and an oil leak fixed by a mechanic.
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I have a USDM 2004 Nissan Sentra SE-R Spec V that has bad tie-rod ends (both inner and outer). I plan on changing them on both sides, however, I was told that I would have to change the boots as well. Are they talking about the strut boots and, if so, how many would I need to change and which ones? (When I went on [URL], it was stating that there are front and rear ones).
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I have replaced the thermostat, radiator, coolant temperature sensor, and coolant. The gauge on the dash shows normal operating temperature, but the overflow keeps filling up after about ten minutes of driving? I noticed that the coolant fans do not come on at all unless you turn on the air conditioner?
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Our Nissan Sentra 2004 heater occasionally stops working, usually when its very cold of course. Usually, the heater starts working fairly quickly but then starts blowing cold air. If you move the vent dial to different positions something changes and the heat starts working again. A mechanic says that something in the heating vents has probably come lose and to find it quite abit of the engine parts will need to be removed resulting in a big bill.
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I have an '04 Nissan Sentra. I know there is a problem with my fuel pump, which can delay the start on my car, but that is not my real problem. My problem is I have no heat. My car starts fine and never moves above or below the middle on the temperature gauge, but it almost never warms up. The only time it seems to is if I am going over 55 mph and that is only the first time I go over that speed. Once I slow down it stops working and does not come back. The air blows out, but the air is colder than my A/C. I have looked at the coolant and that seems to be fine, so I am not sure where to look next.
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2004 Sentra, 100K, rough starting, running good. Dealer diagnosed Head Gasket leak, #3 cyl. misfire. $!300+ est. No can do.I added K&W Head Gasket&Block Sealant, per instructions. Filled radiator and reservoir with 50/50 coolant.Car start improved but CAR NOW OVERHEATS after 15 min. driving. Blasting heat brings guage to normal zone.DID SEALANT CLOG SYSTEM? How doI diagnose? What to check next?
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Car Stats: 2005 Chevy Malibu, Automatic
Just recently while driving my car at a normal speed...(Like 55mph wanted to speed up gradually to 60mph) ..I will push the accelerator and my car wont go any faster. It will act like it is switching to passing gear and then the engine will rev up, the car will lurch forward and then it will finally take off. The RPM's also will increase and then suddenly drop back down to normal.
Also I think this is related to the problem. .... but... when I put the car in the low gear to where I can manually shift it to first second and third. It used to automatically be in the 1st gear... but now it will show up in the third gear and you cannot shift into any other gear.
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1996 Jaguar XJ6 4.0 Litre Base, 43000 miles... While driving, this car, suddenly accelerator pedal becomes very hard to push and car will not move at all even if you press hard pedal to the floor( Requires a lots of force). If I put brakes on, shift the transmission to reverse and to then to drive, it will start moving again. No check engine light comes on and there are no codes stored in computer. This never happens on cruise control. Car starts flawlessly even on cold morning. Battery is new and charging system works fine. Spark plugs were changed at 30,000 miles so also direct ignition coil on cylinder No.3 .....
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I have a 1995 Mustang convertible 3.8. Shakes when its started at an idle and as u push the accelerator, the shaking gets worse, in park, neutral, drive, doesn't matter. I have replaced plugs, wires, coil, torque convertor. I took it to precision auto tune and they said everything checked out computer wise but there is deffinately something wrong. Car shakes so bad its insane.
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2002 Ford Ranger 6 cylinder Manuel Drive, whenever you push on the accelerator makes a high pitch squeal. Changed Idler pulley and belt, No luck.
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2002 Ford F-250 5.4l ... What is the difference in sound between a lifter tick and an exhaust leak? I have a ticking noise, almost sounds more like a puff of air noise, it only makes the noise when I push the accelerator and is coming from the right side. Noise is most noticeable if I put my head under the passenger side front fender. I am guessing I have an exhaust leak somewhere between the heads at cat but just wondering about the difference in sound. I'd think if it were the lifters they would tick at idle, right? The truck sounds great at idle (after doing a tune up) I just want to get rid of this annoying tick when I accelerate.
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I have a 98 Nissan Sentra every now and then when I get in it to start it I get nothing but if I hold it or turn it to the off position a few times it will start, what this could be....
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I have a 2000 Nissan sentra and I have times when I will drive for couple days and then it won't start it will just crank over and over but won't fire I have had it to several people but no answer replaced the fuel pump relay switch but nothing
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I've got a 1997 Nissan Sentra GXE (Standard). Recently, my car decided to stop starting. Here are some of the symptoms:
1) If I would go down a hill and come to a stop, or even if I was slowing down to come to a stop at a stop sign or light, my car would turn off over 50% of the time. It would usually always start back up, until last week. My car turned off as I was slowing down to turn into the mall. I was able to coast into the parking lot.
2) When I turn the key it clicks and makes a "rrrrrr" "rrrrrrr" sound.
3) I was able to get the car started once after I pumped the gas so I don't think it's a fuel pump issue.
4) The automatic windows, lights, and radio still work so I'm ruling out a battery or alternator issue either.
5) My car couldn't be jumped or push-started.
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My brakes are squealing; going to replace pad or lining; what is typical cost?
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Three mechanics have given us three different opinions about what is wrong with our 2003 Nissan Sentra. I'd like to hear from the Car Talk community.The problem started when our car began to shake when we drove above 40 miles per hour. We got the radiator replaced. However, the car still would not always start. We took it to the Nissan dealership. The mechanic there said it needed a new fuel pump.
We took it to mechanic #2 for a lower-cost fuel pump replacement. However, the car has started every time for them. So they cannot be confident that there is something wrong with the fuel pump. The fuel pressure does drop off after turning the key off. This mechanic said our main problem is that there is antifreeze in cylinders No. 2 and 3 of the engine (likely from when our radiator broke). There is either a crack in the cylinders or the head gasket has failed. They are estimating $1,200 to $1,600 to fix this. They said if we don't take care of this, the antifreeze will continue to circulate and damage the engine further.
The Nissan dealership says if there were antifreeze in the engine, the check engine light would have come on. Also, they say they would have noticed if there were antifreeze in the cylinders. Their opinion is the fuel pump is only thing that needs to be fixed.
We then called mechanic #3 to get another opinion. This mechanic specializes in Hondas/Toyotas/Nissans. He hasn't looked at the car yet, but he thinks that the motor could be damaged since the car was shaking when the radiator broke. He says he thinks it is unlikely that the fuel pump needs replacing, and he thinks the check engine light would not detect the antifreeze in the engine.
Fuel pump, antifreeze in cylinders, or motor? Or all three? What do you think?The car has about 85,000 miles on it.
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My car has been working okay. But this morning when i was taking my mom to work. When i pulled into her jobs parking lot i heard a loud sound. I didn't pay any attention to it because the car still acted fine as it been. That was around 7 or 8 this morning. Then around 4 when it's time to pick my mama up. I got in the car it started right up. But i notice that it was jerking or vibrating real bad (but it always vibrates). Then when i started driving it i had to force it to go. When i came to a complete stop at red lights the car was acting like it was trying to cut off and it was jerking and vibrating out of control. It was doing that so much that i had to put it in park and run the motor to keep it going then when the light turned green i put it in drive and it still was acting up. It was so bad that i had to turn around and slowly get it back. I notice though that i smelled something burning. When i parked back at home it was smoke coming from the lights and hood. I know it didn't overheat i didn't have it on for that long maybe 10 minutes at the most. We just got a oil job not too long ago and the service engine light is on. The light has been on for a while now. But before we knew it was the crank shaft sensor. We keep replacing that but that continues to go bad. I really need to know what is possibly keeping my car from picking up speed and why is it smoking? We use this car for everything. My car is a 2001 nissan sentra.
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Have been working on this car for a few weeks now; 93 nissan sentra 1.6L. The gas+oil under the plugs was the original problem. We took the plugs out and tried to start the car a few times to shoot the gas+oil out of the cylinders. All the cylinders would fill up again right after we were done though. So we changed the fuel pressure regulator and they stopped filling up. Changed the oil+filter because they were contaminated with gas. Started it with starter fluid and the problems kept coming.
The catalytic converter was clogged and red hot so I cleaned it all out removing the platinum and put it back in as a empty pipe.Now when it started cylinders 1+2 wouldn't fire and wouldn't kill the engine when i removed the wire from the cylinder when it was running. It was misfiring and sounded terrible but it ran.So i thought it might be the fuel injectors. I was about to check them out today but then there was gas+oil under the plugs again causing hydrolock and it wouldn't start today. Took the plugs out so the cylinders could dry, but I am lost on where to go next.
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