Nissan - Sentra :: 1995 - Camshaft Knock Pins Are Out Of Alignment?
Jun 30, 2012
I am trying to install the upper chains on my sentra. The colored links will not align onto the sprocket marks. They are off by a link. I know there are 16 links across the top and 16 links from the exhaust sprocket to the idler sprocket. However, it seems,the camshaft knock pin on the intake sprocket is out of alignment. Both camshafts are a TDC; intake lobe facing up and facing firewall at horizontal, exhaust love up and horizontal facing grill. The exhaust camshaft sprocket is at 1130; the intake VTC knock pin is above the 9 o'clock mark. The Haynes book and other sources, say the knock pin on the intake side should be below the the 9 mark by about 10-11 degrees and for the exhaust side at 12. Do I need to reset the cam shaft? Can it be done without totally screwing everything up?
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The other day I went to the store for an errand in my 1995 Nissan Sentra. When I parked my car my key seemed to be stuck; I jiggled it out a little after putting it in park and turning it off. I came back and couldn't seem to get the key in properly to turn it over, but eventually after some fidgeting I got it in. I turned it over and it started, but I couldn't take the car out of park. When I pushed down the brake, the gear shifter wouldn't move. I left it there and came back yesterday -- I was able to start the car, but had to fool around with the key a bit to get it to go in properly and the gear shifter still won't move out of park. Is this a transmission problem, an ignition problem, something else, or all of the above.
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I have a 2004 Nissan xtrail. It got stolen and the pricks put a bolt in the oil filler hole and broke the camshaft. Have taken the rocker cover off and all the valves go up and down and look fine when turned over do you think I could just replace the camshaft?
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I have a 98 Nissan Sentra every now and then when I get in it to start it I get nothing but if I hold it or turn it to the off position a few times it will start, what this could be....
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I have a 2000 Nissan sentra and I have times when I will drive for couple days and then it won't start it will just crank over and over but won't fire I have had it to several people but no answer replaced the fuel pump relay switch but nothing
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I have a 1995 Honda Accord EX with around 200k on it's odometer. I recently purchased two new tires. Today, I went to have the front end aligned. I was told that the alignment was so out of whack, that I needed to purchase some sort of "Alignment kit" for them to use. That in itself is going to set me back about $300. Something really seems fishy here. I've never had to have this done before at all on any of my vehicles. So what's the deal? Is this guy trying to rip me a new one? Or is this something I really have to purchase?
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I've got a 1997 Nissan Sentra GXE (Standard). Recently, my car decided to stop starting. Here are some of the symptoms:
1) If I would go down a hill and come to a stop, or even if I was slowing down to come to a stop at a stop sign or light, my car would turn off over 50% of the time. It would usually always start back up, until last week. My car turned off as I was slowing down to turn into the mall. I was able to coast into the parking lot.
2) When I turn the key it clicks and makes a "rrrrrr" "rrrrrrr" sound.
3) I was able to get the car started once after I pumped the gas so I don't think it's a fuel pump issue.
4) The automatic windows, lights, and radio still work so I'm ruling out a battery or alternator issue either.
5) My car couldn't be jumped or push-started.
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My brakes are squealing; going to replace pad or lining; what is typical cost?
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Three mechanics have given us three different opinions about what is wrong with our 2003 Nissan Sentra. I'd like to hear from the Car Talk community.The problem started when our car began to shake when we drove above 40 miles per hour. We got the radiator replaced. However, the car still would not always start. We took it to the Nissan dealership. The mechanic there said it needed a new fuel pump.
We took it to mechanic #2 for a lower-cost fuel pump replacement. However, the car has started every time for them. So they cannot be confident that there is something wrong with the fuel pump. The fuel pressure does drop off after turning the key off. This mechanic said our main problem is that there is antifreeze in cylinders No. 2 and 3 of the engine (likely from when our radiator broke). There is either a crack in the cylinders or the head gasket has failed. They are estimating $1,200 to $1,600 to fix this. They said if we don't take care of this, the antifreeze will continue to circulate and damage the engine further.
The Nissan dealership says if there were antifreeze in the engine, the check engine light would have come on. Also, they say they would have noticed if there were antifreeze in the cylinders. Their opinion is the fuel pump is only thing that needs to be fixed.
We then called mechanic #3 to get another opinion. This mechanic specializes in Hondas/Toyotas/Nissans. He hasn't looked at the car yet, but he thinks that the motor could be damaged since the car was shaking when the radiator broke. He says he thinks it is unlikely that the fuel pump needs replacing, and he thinks the check engine light would not detect the antifreeze in the engine.
Fuel pump, antifreeze in cylinders, or motor? Or all three? What do you think?The car has about 85,000 miles on it.
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My car has been working okay. But this morning when i was taking my mom to work. When i pulled into her jobs parking lot i heard a loud sound. I didn't pay any attention to it because the car still acted fine as it been. That was around 7 or 8 this morning. Then around 4 when it's time to pick my mama up. I got in the car it started right up. But i notice that it was jerking or vibrating real bad (but it always vibrates). Then when i started driving it i had to force it to go. When i came to a complete stop at red lights the car was acting like it was trying to cut off and it was jerking and vibrating out of control. It was doing that so much that i had to put it in park and run the motor to keep it going then when the light turned green i put it in drive and it still was acting up. It was so bad that i had to turn around and slowly get it back. I notice though that i smelled something burning. When i parked back at home it was smoke coming from the lights and hood. I know it didn't overheat i didn't have it on for that long maybe 10 minutes at the most. We just got a oil job not too long ago and the service engine light is on. The light has been on for a while now. But before we knew it was the crank shaft sensor. We keep replacing that but that continues to go bad. I really need to know what is possibly keeping my car from picking up speed and why is it smoking? We use this car for everything. My car is a 2001 nissan sentra.
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I have a USDM 2004 Nissan Sentra SE-R Spec V that has bad tie-rod ends (both inner and outer). I plan on changing them on both sides, however, I was told that I would have to change the boots as well. Are they talking about the strut boots and, if so, how many would I need to change and which ones? (When I went on [URL], it was stating that there are front and rear ones).
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Have been working on this car for a few weeks now; 93 nissan sentra 1.6L. The gas+oil under the plugs was the original problem. We took the plugs out and tried to start the car a few times to shoot the gas+oil out of the cylinders. All the cylinders would fill up again right after we were done though. So we changed the fuel pressure regulator and they stopped filling up. Changed the oil+filter because they were contaminated with gas. Started it with starter fluid and the problems kept coming.
The catalytic converter was clogged and red hot so I cleaned it all out removing the platinum and put it back in as a empty pipe.Now when it started cylinders 1+2 wouldn't fire and wouldn't kill the engine when i removed the wire from the cylinder when it was running. It was misfiring and sounded terrible but it ran.So i thought it might be the fuel injectors. I was about to check them out today but then there was gas+oil under the plugs again causing hydrolock and it wouldn't start today. Took the plugs out so the cylinders could dry, but I am lost on where to go next.
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The timing chain on my 94 Nissan Sentra XE 1.6L has jumped. The car will not start and when you do try and start it just lopes and then sounds like it wants to start and goes back to loping. BTW, it has 249K on it. I have removed the front cam shaft cover. The chain is intact and looks good, but can be depressed with the finger. Upon closer inspection the chain has cut a very noticeable groove into the tensioner. There is also a noticeable groove in the upper chain guide. The question here is, can I just replace the tensioner and the guides (there are two of them), without changing out the chain. One other question I have is there a possibility that I could have damaged a valve after trying to trying to start the car with the jumped chain. Someone told my that this possible, but I have also read on the NIssan Forums that damaging/bending a valve would occur only if the chain had actually broke and I tried to start it or manually (by hand) advancing the crankshaft will attempt to get to TDC?
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I have a 99 Nissan Sentra. It does not start when parked under the sun or when the weather is hot. It starts great in the morning when it is cool. The battery is new. When the car does not start, the lights come on OK (engine check light et al.), but there is no sound, no clicking ( that I can hear), no nothing happens. I heard from a mechanic that I need to change the distributor; another said that it is the starter.
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A friend of mine has a '97 Nissan Sentra and up until recently, it ran fine. Now the car needs to be refilled with 2 to 3 quarts of oil after being driven less than 100 miles. A mechanic looked at the car and said that there were no oil leaks and that the car didn't emit much blue smoke. After looking over the car a second time, the mechanic said that the number 2 cylinder needs new oil rings. A friend doesn't believe that oil rings can disintegrate so quickly.
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The clutch is slipping in my 2007 Nissan Sentra 2.0 with 51,000+ miles. It only does it on 90F+ days after driving around for at least 30 minutes. Can it really be clutch wear so early or is there another likely culprit?
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My car rumbling when stopped.. I have service appt for them to look into software update. Anyway I want to have the tranny fluid drained and filled. Does tranny have a gasket and filter?
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I have a 2007 Nissan Sentra. The cd player has stopped working. When I put in a cd it says Read Error. I've tried several cd's with the same result. I've noticed that within the past week when playing cd's some of the tracks would skip. Now they don't play at all. I tried the same cd's in my other vehicle and they work fine. The radio/cd player is factory.
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I have Nissan Sentra 2005 1.8S. I was on the road this week and stop at the gas station to get gas and after that, the car won't just start. All the indicators at the dashboard lights up, horn is working, battery is new and alternator is working. But there was no click sound, the car just start for me so I have to get it towed.
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My car is a 97 Nissan Sentra GXE (4-cyl, 1.6L) manual. It won't start. I put the key in, turn it--all the lights come on, but it won't crank, turn over... nothing. It died, then started again Sunday morning. I drove it to work Tuesday, and it died in the lot... as in, it wouldn't start again. It's still in the lot at my job, and I figure I'd give it one last try before having it towed to the Car Cemetery.
Reading forums online, I see a few cases of the same thing. One suggested solution is the Neutral safety switch, the other is the solenoid on the starter (??). I looked everywhere for the solenoid, don't see one, so I assume it's on the starter. I have NO clue where the Neutral safety switch would be--I see nothing on the transmission and nothing under my dash as was noted in these forums.
IIs it one or the other? It appears this may be a Nissan-Personality thing... I'm just trying to keep my Rusted, Dying Love running till I can replace it. (It also has a leaky oil pressure valve, but the oil level is fine, if that makes a difference.)
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