Nissan - Sentra :: 1989 - When Accelerate / Up Shift At Low Rpm It Bogs Down?
Sep 17, 2011
I have an 89 Nissan Sentra 4x4 wagon 5 speed. It only has 40,000 miles. When I upshift or try to accelerate at low rpms (1-2k) it bogs down a bit or feels like it might even be missing on a cylinder. I just replaced the spark plugs (correctly gapped) but not the wires, with no change. I also have been running fuel system cleaners in the gas with no change. Could it be as simple as the fuel filter?
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Trying to find out what's wrong with my 89 Sentra 4 spd. Over the last 3-4 months when it's first started it runs a little rough and has a rich smell to it. When put into gear especially at low speeds it starts to surge like its running out of gas. Even when warm - at any speed, when you very slightly decrease acceleration it surges. But when you just accelerate it stops. And when coming to a stop it stalls but will start right up again.
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2004 Nissan sentra 36,000 miles, stalls when it rains after I stop for a red light or a STOP sign. While pumping the gas, I have to wait a minute or more before it accelerates and moves. It is an automatic. I had a mechanic check the spark plugs and sensor codes. All checked out okay. Car drives fine in dry weather, no stalling. Bought used from out of town.Mechanic told me to bring it in when it rains. But that's not safe, because it will stall. Could moisture, humidity, or air pressure affect sensors?
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I have a 2008 Nissan Sentra with 90-something thousand miles on it. Last summer I moved from Texas to Oregon, so it went through 125° Arizona heat (during which overdrive stopped working for a while) and mountains for the first time. Ever since then, if starting from a parked position, I can't go over hills or bumps or even curbs. I can IF I was already driving on a flat surface. But if I stop on an incline and then try to drive forward (or reverse up it), I can't. The RPMs don't go above ~1.5k until I'm back on a flat surface.
The check engine light is on, and has been on since last summer, but the code it spits out is something dealership specific. People have told me it "might be something with the transmission". The problem hasn't gotten better or worse since last summer, so I just ignored it and got really good at not stopping before steep inclines or hitting curbs or anything (lol). But if I ever need to, I'll be in huge trouble. I can't even drive over medium sized rocks if I park too close to them.
The first time I found out about this was when I pulled into a friend's downhill driveway last summer, and then couldn't reverse out of it. He had to push it back up.
Note: from a stop, it will go up GRADUAL hills and over SMALL bumps just fine, but anything that takes more than 1.5k RPMs to overcome isn't happening. It will go up steeper hills and larger bumps (and curbs) only if I was already driving, but it still can't tackle the steepest mountain road inclines like other cars can.
The 1.5k RPM problem goes away when it's on a flat surface (or if I started driving on a flat surface before encountering a hill), and it accelerates normally again. However... It also takes a couple of seconds to rev beyond 1.5k RPMs after stopping at a red light.
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While a friend was using my 2003 Nissan Sentra evidently a child spilled a sugary drink onto the gear shift console without my friend realizing it. The car sat for 2 weeks in the Sept. heat. When I drove it for the first time, I noticed a grinding sensation when I put the gear shift into reverse and park. The other settings were normal. Do I need to have it checked out, or will the motion of using the gear shift eventually wear away the sticky mess that obviously is in there? My husband didn't notice a thing, but it is my car and he very seldom drives it.
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I got an 04 Nissan Sentra and I got a (P1273 Nissan - Air Fuel Ratio Sensor 1 Lean Shift Monitoring Bank 1) code that popped up on it. Looking to see what the probable cause for this code to pop up? Is this a rare code that popped up on this car? There's no noticeable symptoms going on with the car.
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It drags and bogs in first and second gear. No jump to it at all. I've replaced the fuel pump, fuel filter,brakes, brake lines,valve cover gasket, spark plugs, spark plug hoses, exhaust manifold, timings good. What else can it be?
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If I hop in my truck right now (1994 3.0 ford ranger 5 speed) as soon as i accelerate half pedal or more it'll bog down really bad. Usually in second gear it does it the most and ill shift to third gear and it still jerks and has trouble accelerating. If I let the car sit for 10 minutes and then go drive it it'll jerk and bog down a little bit but no where near as much. usually only does it for the first couple minutes of driving then goes back to normal. I also noticed that my temperature gauge is always right before NORMAL. Also I'll have to give it a little more gas right before i go to drive or it'll want to stall but as soon as i get into driving it, it acts perfectly fine.
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I have a 2005 volvo s40 ion a cold day when i start car and take off it bogs, there is no pep it seems like its struggling, after a couple minutes of driving she is back to normal. I replaced spark plugs - no difference...
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I have a 98 Nissan Sentra every now and then when I get in it to start it I get nothing but if I hold it or turn it to the off position a few times it will start, what this could be....
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I have a 2000 Nissan sentra and I have times when I will drive for couple days and then it won't start it will just crank over and over but won't fire I have had it to several people but no answer replaced the fuel pump relay switch but nothing
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I've got a 1997 Nissan Sentra GXE (Standard). Recently, my car decided to stop starting. Here are some of the symptoms:
1) If I would go down a hill and come to a stop, or even if I was slowing down to come to a stop at a stop sign or light, my car would turn off over 50% of the time. It would usually always start back up, until last week. My car turned off as I was slowing down to turn into the mall. I was able to coast into the parking lot.
2) When I turn the key it clicks and makes a "rrrrrr" "rrrrrrr" sound.
3) I was able to get the car started once after I pumped the gas so I don't think it's a fuel pump issue.
4) The automatic windows, lights, and radio still work so I'm ruling out a battery or alternator issue either.
5) My car couldn't be jumped or push-started.
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My brakes are squealing; going to replace pad or lining; what is typical cost?
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Three mechanics have given us three different opinions about what is wrong with our 2003 Nissan Sentra. I'd like to hear from the Car Talk community.The problem started when our car began to shake when we drove above 40 miles per hour. We got the radiator replaced. However, the car still would not always start. We took it to the Nissan dealership. The mechanic there said it needed a new fuel pump.
We took it to mechanic #2 for a lower-cost fuel pump replacement. However, the car has started every time for them. So they cannot be confident that there is something wrong with the fuel pump. The fuel pressure does drop off after turning the key off. This mechanic said our main problem is that there is antifreeze in cylinders No. 2 and 3 of the engine (likely from when our radiator broke). There is either a crack in the cylinders or the head gasket has failed. They are estimating $1,200 to $1,600 to fix this. They said if we don't take care of this, the antifreeze will continue to circulate and damage the engine further.
The Nissan dealership says if there were antifreeze in the engine, the check engine light would have come on. Also, they say they would have noticed if there were antifreeze in the cylinders. Their opinion is the fuel pump is only thing that needs to be fixed.
We then called mechanic #3 to get another opinion. This mechanic specializes in Hondas/Toyotas/Nissans. He hasn't looked at the car yet, but he thinks that the motor could be damaged since the car was shaking when the radiator broke. He says he thinks it is unlikely that the fuel pump needs replacing, and he thinks the check engine light would not detect the antifreeze in the engine.
Fuel pump, antifreeze in cylinders, or motor? Or all three? What do you think?The car has about 85,000 miles on it.
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My car has been working okay. But this morning when i was taking my mom to work. When i pulled into her jobs parking lot i heard a loud sound. I didn't pay any attention to it because the car still acted fine as it been. That was around 7 or 8 this morning. Then around 4 when it's time to pick my mama up. I got in the car it started right up. But i notice that it was jerking or vibrating real bad (but it always vibrates). Then when i started driving it i had to force it to go. When i came to a complete stop at red lights the car was acting like it was trying to cut off and it was jerking and vibrating out of control. It was doing that so much that i had to put it in park and run the motor to keep it going then when the light turned green i put it in drive and it still was acting up. It was so bad that i had to turn around and slowly get it back. I notice though that i smelled something burning. When i parked back at home it was smoke coming from the lights and hood. I know it didn't overheat i didn't have it on for that long maybe 10 minutes at the most. We just got a oil job not too long ago and the service engine light is on. The light has been on for a while now. But before we knew it was the crank shaft sensor. We keep replacing that but that continues to go bad. I really need to know what is possibly keeping my car from picking up speed and why is it smoking? We use this car for everything. My car is a 2001 nissan sentra.
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I have a USDM 2004 Nissan Sentra SE-R Spec V that has bad tie-rod ends (both inner and outer). I plan on changing them on both sides, however, I was told that I would have to change the boots as well. Are they talking about the strut boots and, if so, how many would I need to change and which ones? (When I went on [URL], it was stating that there are front and rear ones).
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Have been working on this car for a few weeks now; 93 nissan sentra 1.6L. The gas+oil under the plugs was the original problem. We took the plugs out and tried to start the car a few times to shoot the gas+oil out of the cylinders. All the cylinders would fill up again right after we were done though. So we changed the fuel pressure regulator and they stopped filling up. Changed the oil+filter because they were contaminated with gas. Started it with starter fluid and the problems kept coming.
The catalytic converter was clogged and red hot so I cleaned it all out removing the platinum and put it back in as a empty pipe.Now when it started cylinders 1+2 wouldn't fire and wouldn't kill the engine when i removed the wire from the cylinder when it was running. It was misfiring and sounded terrible but it ran.So i thought it might be the fuel injectors. I was about to check them out today but then there was gas+oil under the plugs again causing hydrolock and it wouldn't start today. Took the plugs out so the cylinders could dry, but I am lost on where to go next.
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The timing chain on my 94 Nissan Sentra XE 1.6L has jumped. The car will not start and when you do try and start it just lopes and then sounds like it wants to start and goes back to loping. BTW, it has 249K on it. I have removed the front cam shaft cover. The chain is intact and looks good, but can be depressed with the finger. Upon closer inspection the chain has cut a very noticeable groove into the tensioner. There is also a noticeable groove in the upper chain guide. The question here is, can I just replace the tensioner and the guides (there are two of them), without changing out the chain. One other question I have is there a possibility that I could have damaged a valve after trying to trying to start the car with the jumped chain. Someone told my that this possible, but I have also read on the NIssan Forums that damaging/bending a valve would occur only if the chain had actually broke and I tried to start it or manually (by hand) advancing the crankshaft will attempt to get to TDC?
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I have a 99 Nissan Sentra. It does not start when parked under the sun or when the weather is hot. It starts great in the morning when it is cool. The battery is new. When the car does not start, the lights come on OK (engine check light et al.), but there is no sound, no clicking ( that I can hear), no nothing happens. I heard from a mechanic that I need to change the distributor; another said that it is the starter.
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A friend of mine has a '97 Nissan Sentra and up until recently, it ran fine. Now the car needs to be refilled with 2 to 3 quarts of oil after being driven less than 100 miles. A mechanic looked at the car and said that there were no oil leaks and that the car didn't emit much blue smoke. After looking over the car a second time, the mechanic said that the number 2 cylinder needs new oil rings. A friend doesn't believe that oil rings can disintegrate so quickly.
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The clutch is slipping in my 2007 Nissan Sentra 2.0 with 51,000+ miles. It only does it on 90F+ days after driving around for at least 30 minutes. Can it really be clutch wear so early or is there another likely culprit?
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