2010 Nissan rogue (42,500 miles) When the a/c is on and I'm stopped in traffic, with my foot on the brake the car shudders. There are times I feel like it will stall. I've had it to the dealer several times and they've told me the compressor puts a lot of strain on the engine. I have been in many other vehicles small and large and do not notice this.
View 2 RepliesWe bought a used 2009 Nissan Rogue about a year ago. According to the previous owner, all services were done at the local Nissan dealer.
About 4000 km after we bought it, my wife noticed that it was shuddering after she applied the brakes. So I took it to the dealer... and they said that the front calipers were seized and needed to be replaced. It only had 82,000 km or so (51,000 miles) on it then. The previous owners paid for the repair, which included new calipers, pads and rotors.
Fast forward to yesterday, and I was told by the independent garage that we take all of our vehicles to that one of the rear calipers had seized and needed to be replaced. The vehicle only has 104,000 km on it (about 65,000 miles). Again, the caliper had to be replaced, along with all pads and rotors on the rear end. When I commented to him that we've replaced 3 out of 4 calipers, he said that the other rear caliper looked like it had been replaced too.
My question to the group is - should calipers that have been serviced properly seize like that? I'm of the opinion that they shouldn't if they're being checked regularly and serviced properly.
Am I correct? Or not? I've owned a lot of cars in my lifetime, and this is the first time I've had seized calipers on any of them.
So my car stereo (center console) had been cutting in and out at random times, spoke to a tech from the garage and it seems like a lose connection is really really unlikely, that most likely the stereo is just on its way out.
So left with the option of replacing it. Is this a big task to replace/not worth it and simply go without a stereo?
It's a Nissan Rogue 2010,.
My 2010 Nissan Rogue was awesome until the clicks, squeaks, rattles, etc popped up after the first year. I've been slowly figuring them out, but one remaining problem is the squeaking plastic door panels. If I lean my arm on it or or leg against it, it creaks in many places. Going over bumps it'll do it on it's own. Is there anything I can do to remedy this? It is out of warranty as I have about 40K on it and they said that wouldn't qualify anyhow when it was under warranty as it was "cosmetic".
View 5 RepliesI stopped at traffic light and my car went off and won't start again. I had it towed home, it will jump start and keep on running as long as the jump start pack stays connected. As soon as i disconnect the jumpstarter it shuts off. There are no warning lights on the dash while engine is running. My guess is alternator is bad and car ran on battery till battery was discharged and the it stopped on the road. Now if this was the case shouldn't there be a battery and/or break warning light on the dash while car is running on battery?
Also if it were a battery problem then the car should run on power from the alternator once it's jump started right? In which case there should be a battery warning light on the dash right? I know the dash lights aren't bad because when i turn the key to the on position all the lights show up, including the battery light. I will like to take out the alternator and bring it the the shop for testing but before doing this I'll like some input since I'm not very convinced it's the alternator because there's no battery signal on the dash while engine is running on battery.
Car is: 2004 Nissan Murano AWD CVT trans106K Miles
My wife just called on her way to work in the middle of another winter storm and stated that the AWD light on our Nissan Rogue will illuminate and then go off. For those unfamiliar with the vehicle while stopped or in park you just push a button and the AWD system is engaged (a light on the switch goes on to indicate it is on). Unfortunately, the light or AWD goes out randomly. I contacted our local Nissan garage and have an appointment next week. They say the light/AWD should stay on.
View 8 RepliesMy husband was driving our 2013 nissan rogue and the engine light came on. Shortly afterwards the car began to smoke and stopped working. Oil is leaking out of the car and the oil pan needs to be replaced (looks like he hit something because the oil pan has a dent in it). Also, the engine rattles when turned on. They said that I might need a new engine which is over 4000 dollars. They said I can replace the oil pan and get an oil change to see if that works. Is it likely that my engine is dead? He said it could just be rattling because of the lack of oil but he won't know until we replace the oil and oil pan.
View 13 RepliesThree times over a period of six weeks my 09Nissan Rogue has turned off during high speed driving. Shuts right down with no warning or sputtering. Last time was on Mass Pike with no break down lane and cars flying all around at 75MPH - scary as all.... I had to roll over to right lane, park and restart, which it wouldnt do right away- a number of attempts and it started up and I drove away.
Brought right to dealer- and at dealer last few days and they cant pinpoint problem- have done numerous test drives. They have checked computer and it indicates no issues. They have called Nissan and reported that they dont have a case of a similar issue. 70, 000 miles, just completely serviced, plenty of gas, newer battery in electronic keyfob- IT's a mystery! I am scared to drive the car.
I have a 2011 Nissan Rogue that has lurched (or misfired?) about a handful of times. It only does it at highway speeds shortly after I've merged onto the highway, usually around 50-60mph. There is a loud thunk and it feels, for about a split second, that the car has stalled out. No warning lights come on, RPMs don't rev, and car resumes driving just fine after and hasn't yet repeated it on the same drive. It is very cold where we are, but the highway is at least 5-10mins from my house, so car usually has warmed up by the time we've gotten there. I've taken it in twice now to be looked at and neither times has it done this on their test drive. The shop yesterday didn't see any diagnostic codes either, so they didn't even know where to begin looking at possible issues...only suggestion was that I bring it in again after it happens again...I know next to nothing about cars, but it surprises me that they won't even check various possible issues to see if anything is out of whack, loose, etc...
View 3 RepliesI have a 2009 nissan rogue that when driven for 30 minutes or more with the ac on leaves my clothing smelling like exhaust (faint smell). I have had the dealership look at the car and they cannot find anything. We have replaced the interior cabin air filter and I still find the smell. this is not something that I notice while driving until I have been in the car for 30 or so minutes. My wife also notices the smell in her clothes after driving and now won't drive the Nissan. We are running the car with maximum AC turned on with the air recirculation button on as well. SO, theoretically, no outside air should be getting in but it still seems like our clothes smell like we have been in a traffic jam with the windows down after 30 minutes of driving.
View 7 RepliesMy 2010 SL rogue's brakes seem to be extremely spongy/floaty. When stopping I need to push the brakes pedal all the way down before it'll come to a complete stop. It feels like I'm pushing air out. Just got her back from bthe repair shop, and had been driving a rent a car(2015 Ford focus) and the difference between the braking is night/day.
Checked the brakes fluid and its just a hair under max line. Was under the impression that the break pads were replaced a year ago. Best obvious answer I can figure out(google) is possibly air in the brake lines?
My traction control light comes on sporadically when I am stopped at a light. Roads are dry and I have not hit anything. What is going on?
View 8 Repliesi buy a used car from a friend. when I push the pedal to accelerate from still(RPM 1000-2000), i can hear clearly there is a noise from front and the bottom of the car (same source). It is a noise obviously generated by metal clashing with each other. But such noise doesn't appear when the car hit big holes on roads or when the RPM is higher than 2000RPM. the car goes smoothly and quietly on highway, but the noise worries me.
View 1 RepliesI have a 2008 Nissan Rogue and I bought it used and it has worked great until recently. The issue I have is after 1-2 hours of driving at a consistent speed of 70 MPH it will stop accelerating past 2.5-3 RPMs(x1000). When it started happening, I was able to pull over, turn the car off for 10-15 minutes, and it won't happen again until my next trip.
I can't seem to recreate the issue except after going on a road trip. It's kind of scary when trying to go up hills and when I slow down when I come into smaller towns and get to a stoplight, I stop, wait until the light changes, and when I try and accelerate again it's jumpy and doesn't respond for 3-5 seconds which can be annoying to the person behind me.
I have a 2008 Nissan Rogue that is experiencing a shifter problem. The problem is that periodically the shifter will not go from the "park" position to the "drive" position after the car is started and your foot is on the brake. I have been able to drive the car by inserting a small screwdriver into the slot on the gear shift assembly to depress the switch that allows you to override the mechanism but as you can imagine that is tedious and what do you do if suddenly the screwdriver is lost - you go nowhere and you can't even get to store to buy another one because the car won't move!
I have had the car into the dealer twice now and they have been unable to correctly diagnose the shifter problem. They have said that it could be a failed solenoid that senses the brake pedal being depressed but so far that has checked out fine. They also thought that it may be a brake sensor and they asked me to keep an eye on the brake lights to see if they come on when the brake pedal is depressed and the lights do come on so they believe that is not an issue. They "repositioned" the shift assembly in the car center console thinking that it may be an improper position and they tightened it down into place but that has not corrected the problem either. They now tell me that the entire shift assembly needs to be replaced at a cost of $670.00 and I find that hard to believe let alone pay for!
The car has about 70,000 mile on it and it was recently in an accident that did deploy some side airbags and I am wondering too if the accident may have damaged the assembly in some way that caused the malfunction where the repairs may be covered by my insurance company. This has only started after the accident repairs were made and we never had a problem like this prior to that event.
I have a 2005 GMC Canyon pickup with ~43,000 miles. This January 2012 it started shuddering while stopped or idling, shaking down from approximately 900RPMs to 5-600RPMs. It felt like it would shut down, but then jumped back up to normal. I had the fuel system cleaned out, which included a chemical clean of the throttle body. It ran fine for a few weeks but then came back with a vengeance, now also shuddering while accelerating on the freeway. After the check engine light came on (and then went off), I brought it to the dealership and they told me it was definitely something internal to the engine but couldn't tell me what.
View 6 RepliesI have a 2007 Nissan murano so and the past 2 days while in traffic in my way home his happens: All the lights go on (oil, engine, brake, ect). Cannot push gas or brake and steering wheel is very tight. I was able to shut the car off and turn it back on within a minute the engine turned and I was back as normal- now the service engine light is on. I recently had an oil change and they reconnect a loose cable to my battery. I was able to drive to work this morning but again, the service light is on now.
View 4 RepliesA few weeks ago on a short drive, my car (2000 Toyota Corolla) started shuddering/pulsating when I was stopped at a red light (and it kept doing that intermittently as I drove the few blocks home.) Next time I tried to start it, it turned over but then died. Towed it to the mechanic, he said it was a dead ignition coil, he replaced the coil and it was able to start again.
Less than a week (and not much driving - 50 miles tops) later, on the highway, it starts shuddering again, feels way underpowered, and the check engine flashes. It's pretty scary. I pull over and have it towed to the mechanic. (It still starts up but doesn't feel safe to drive, plus the check engine light is flashing.) First he says one of the fuel injectors needs to be replaced, then he says that on further testing it was actually another dead ignition coil. He replaces the ignition coil (he didn't end up replacing the fuel injector) and I pick up the car.
It's fine on the drive home (which is about 3 city miles, no highway driving) and on another neighborhood errand, and the check engine light isn't on, but now it's sort of shuddering again. I don't want to keep driving it and/or try it on the highway to wait for it to get worse.
I guess I'll take it in again tomorrow, but does this seem odd at all? I know some people replace all 4 ignition coils at once pre-emptively, but it would seem strange for 3 to fail within ~150 miles (assuming this is yet another ignition coil.) What else might be going on? I had the spark plugs changed last year so those should be fine. The car has pretty low miles on it (about 100k) for the age.
I'm at 55k and over the past 2k-3k miles I have noticed my idle getting rougher and rougher when stopped at a light. I took it to my garage and they cleaned the fuel injection system/throttle body/MAF sensor. When I got the car beck it felt a little better but the idle is still pretty rough.
Compared to my wife's '09 Sienna, it is a lot more noticeable that the car is on. I'm in Florida so the AC is on. When I put the car in neutral, the idle become smooth.
I have a 1997 Honda Civic with 275,000 miles on it. After driving for an hour or so, it starts getting hot when stopped or nearly stopped. It goes back to normal temperature when I start driving. It does cool down if I turn on the heater. I just changed the timing belt/water pump and put it a new radiator and changed the thermostat hoping it would solve the problem, but it hasn't. I checked and the fan does come on when stopped. Could it be a cooling system clog that a flush might be able to solve or might it be the head gasket?
View 9 RepliesMy 2007 Accent just quit running setting in traffic. Checked fuel pump fuses and relay, all ok. What else could it be? Has 100,000 miles on it. Just turned over yesterday.
View 10 Replies