Nissan - Rogue :: 2008 - Shifter Will Not Go From Park To Drive Position After Car Started And Foot On Brake
Jan 18, 2012
I have a 2008 Nissan Rogue that is experiencing a shifter problem. The problem is that periodically the shifter will not go from the "park" position to the "drive" position after the car is started and your foot is on the brake. I have been able to drive the car by inserting a small screwdriver into the slot on the gear shift assembly to depress the switch that allows you to override the mechanism but as you can imagine that is tedious and what do you do if suddenly the screwdriver is lost - you go nowhere and you can't even get to store to buy another one because the car won't move!
I have had the car into the dealer twice now and they have been unable to correctly diagnose the shifter problem. They have said that it could be a failed solenoid that senses the brake pedal being depressed but so far that has checked out fine. They also thought that it may be a brake sensor and they asked me to keep an eye on the brake lights to see if they come on when the brake pedal is depressed and the lights do come on so they believe that is not an issue. They "repositioned" the shift assembly in the car center console thinking that it may be an improper position and they tightened it down into place but that has not corrected the problem either. They now tell me that the entire shift assembly needs to be replaced at a cost of $670.00 and I find that hard to believe let alone pay for!
The car has about 70,000 mile on it and it was recently in an accident that did deploy some side airbags and I am wondering too if the accident may have damaged the assembly in some way that caused the malfunction where the repairs may be covered by my insurance company. This has only started after the accident repairs were made and we never had a problem like this prior to that event.
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My son who is away at college, has a 04 F150 that has a center console and he can't get the truck to shift out of the 'Park' position. I told him to try and rock the truck back and forth and then try again...no luck.
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Three weeks ago I got a rebuilt transmission. This issue started for the first time 3 days ago when the weather turned very hot for the first time in a while, although I have used the AC from time to time beforehand. Is it safe to drive over the weekend?
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My wife's 2004 GX 470 was not going into low gear from 2nd, so of course I used some pressure and i heard something break inside the gear shifter (sounded plastic), now the shifter won't stay in 4th from drive and will shift out of park even when the car is off. Could this be the shift lock control? I know the linkage was probably the fault initially when not going into L from 2nd gear, but now I have this issue to deal with.
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I have spilt some coke into my shifter and it dried. Now when I shift to Drive or back to Park it makes this crackling sound and sometimes gets stuck. How to take the P-R-N-D-S cover off so I can clean?
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This noise started this week. Grinding when I take my foot off the brake when in park and parking brake set. What is causing it?
A guy at work said brakes. The front brake pads were replaced last year. Original rear.
Just over 90,000 miles.
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I have a 2003 Ford Focus with the Zetec 2L, 16 valve. When the car is warm and I put it in neutral or park and take my foot off of the brake it will occasionally shut off. Not stall, but shut off - as though I turned the key. This doesn't happen every time; it usually doesn't. I have no other drivability problems and there are no warning lights or engine codes. The ideas I have are:
- Vacuum/ brake booster leak
- MAF problem or dirty throttle body
- Something weird going on with the transmission shift interlock mechanism.
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I think this is dangerous. Several times I've stopped and hit the turn off button and had the car creep forward when I actually didn't shut off the engine. I had taken my old 07 Prius to the dealer to see if they could fix this and they said they couldn't.
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So lately this has been getting worst. You have to step on the brake before you can shift out of park. Well lately I have to step on the brake a few times before the safety will let you get into gear.
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My wife just called on her way to work in the middle of another winter storm and stated that the AWD light on our Nissan Rogue will illuminate and then go off. For those unfamiliar with the vehicle while stopped or in park you just push a button and the AWD system is engaged (a light on the switch goes on to indicate it is on). Unfortunately, the light or AWD goes out randomly. I contacted our local Nissan garage and have an appointment next week. They say the light/AWD should stay on.
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My husband was driving our 2013 nissan rogue and the engine light came on. Shortly afterwards the car began to smoke and stopped working. Oil is leaking out of the car and the oil pan needs to be replaced (looks like he hit something because the oil pan has a dent in it). Also, the engine rattles when turned on. They said that I might need a new engine which is over 4000 dollars. They said I can replace the oil pan and get an oil change to see if that works. Is it likely that my engine is dead? He said it could just be rattling because of the lack of oil but he won't know until we replace the oil and oil pan.
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Three times over a period of six weeks my 09Nissan Rogue has turned off during high speed driving. Shuts right down with no warning or sputtering. Last time was on Mass Pike with no break down lane and cars flying all around at 75MPH - scary as all.... I had to roll over to right lane, park and restart, which it wouldnt do right away- a number of attempts and it started up and I drove away.
Brought right to dealer- and at dealer last few days and they cant pinpoint problem- have done numerous test drives. They have checked computer and it indicates no issues. They have called Nissan and reported that they dont have a case of a similar issue. 70, 000 miles, just completely serviced, plenty of gas, newer battery in electronic keyfob- IT's a mystery! I am scared to drive the car.
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After driving in the rain and starting the car again after a few hours (as in starting the car again after work, or starting it first thing in the morning) the following happens: As soon as I release my foot from the brake pedal to go into "drive," there is a "thunk" sound from the rear of the car as well as a lurch. A soft "thunk" may have a soft 'thunk" sound, but a louder thunk will have a pronounced lurch/jerkiness from the rear. The car drives OK and has no problem with braking when I apply the brakes.
It happens only after driving in the rain. The dealer says the sound and movement are the normal result with disc brakes wearing off the rust on the rotors. Other wet weather concern (happened once): while driving in a couple inches of snow, the brakes began to grind and eventually failed to bring the car to a stop. Dealer rotated the rear rotors (due to uneven wear, although I had the car only two weeks at the time) and installed new rear brake pads. He said grinding brakes on an Elantra are normal in rainy, snowy, and dusty conditions. Is my car really safe to drive? Is there a problem? I'm considering trading it it as I don't feel safe. It is an otherwise OK car.
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We bought a used 2009 Nissan Rogue about a year ago. According to the previous owner, all services were done at the local Nissan dealer.
About 4000 km after we bought it, my wife noticed that it was shuddering after she applied the brakes. So I took it to the dealer... and they said that the front calipers were seized and needed to be replaced. It only had 82,000 km or so (51,000 miles) on it then. The previous owners paid for the repair, which included new calipers, pads and rotors.
Fast forward to yesterday, and I was told by the independent garage that we take all of our vehicles to that one of the rear calipers had seized and needed to be replaced. The vehicle only has 104,000 km on it (about 65,000 miles). Again, the caliper had to be replaced, along with all pads and rotors on the rear end. When I commented to him that we've replaced 3 out of 4 calipers, he said that the other rear caliper looked like it had been replaced too.
My question to the group is - should calipers that have been serviced properly seize like that? I'm of the opinion that they shouldn't if they're being checked regularly and serviced properly.
Am I correct? Or not? I've owned a lot of cars in my lifetime, and this is the first time I've had seized calipers on any of them.
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2010 Nissan rogue (42,500 miles) When the a/c is on and I'm stopped in traffic, with my foot on the brake the car shudders. There are times I feel like it will stall. I've had it to the dealer several times and they've told me the compressor puts a lot of strain on the engine. I have been in many other vehicles small and large and do not notice this.
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I have a 2011 Nissan Rogue that has lurched (or misfired?) about a handful of times. It only does it at highway speeds shortly after I've merged onto the highway, usually around 50-60mph. There is a loud thunk and it feels, for about a split second, that the car has stalled out. No warning lights come on, RPMs don't rev, and car resumes driving just fine after and hasn't yet repeated it on the same drive. It is very cold where we are, but the highway is at least 5-10mins from my house, so car usually has warmed up by the time we've gotten there. I've taken it in twice now to be looked at and neither times has it done this on their test drive. The shop yesterday didn't see any diagnostic codes either, so they didn't even know where to begin looking at possible issues...only suggestion was that I bring it in again after it happens again...I know next to nothing about cars, but it surprises me that they won't even check various possible issues to see if anything is out of whack, loose, etc...
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I have a 2009 nissan rogue that when driven for 30 minutes or more with the ac on leaves my clothing smelling like exhaust (faint smell). I have had the dealership look at the car and they cannot find anything. We have replaced the interior cabin air filter and I still find the smell. this is not something that I notice while driving until I have been in the car for 30 or so minutes. My wife also notices the smell in her clothes after driving and now won't drive the Nissan. We are running the car with maximum AC turned on with the air recirculation button on as well. SO, theoretically, no outside air should be getting in but it still seems like our clothes smell like we have been in a traffic jam with the windows down after 30 minutes of driving.
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I have a 2006 f150 fx4 4x4. I drove it home from work yesterday and it ran and drove just fine. I got up this morning to go to work and turn the key but the engine won't fire. I turns over just fine. I turn the key to release the trans to put it in neutral to see if it would start like that and the shifter is stuck. I button in the front will not go in. I tried lifting the rear tires off the ground to see if I could free the trans.
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I have a 13 Altima and have been hearing a clunk/pop sound when coming to a stop and sometimes when changing from park to drive and park to reverse. It seems to also be there when accelerating too and the car is also seem to be vibrating when moving at lower speeds. Today i noticed something else. I parked the car and took the key out. I went to the side of the car and slowly rocked it back and forth and started to hear this clunk sound. I have uploaded it to youtube and can be found here [URL].... . After hearing the sound, I decided to take the driver wheel off and noticed it makes the same sound when i move the tires. It seems to be coming from the CV joint, where it connects to the transmission. why would a car make that clunk sound with the car/key off and swayed back and fourth? does this seem like a CV joint issue or something related to the transmission.
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Well I read most of the 2011 manual last night to find out why I have "M" on my gearshift, & found it near the end...so we can manually shift our gears. So I normally drive in D, and I use the tow/haul switch when trailing...so under what circumstances does the normal person need to manually shift through 5 gear positions using M, and the 5-position switch?
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So my car stereo (center console) had been cutting in and out at random times, spoke to a tech from the garage and it seems like a lose connection is really really unlikely, that most likely the stereo is just on its way out.
So left with the option of replacing it. Is this a big task to replace/not worth it and simply go without a stereo?
It's a Nissan Rogue 2010,.
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