Nissan - Quest :: Tachometer Started Jumping A Little And Engine Rough Then Died
Oct 2, 2012
On my way home late at night, my tachometer started jumping a little, and the engine was rough. Then after another minute the lights dimmed and the engine died. It wouldn't start again. The next morning, it started right up, and it seemed fine. Drove it to the mechanic, he took it for a drive on the freeway, then after he got off the freeway it died again and had to be towed. The error code on the computer is P0326- Knock Sensor. I had the same sensor activated a couple of years ago, and my awesome mechanic (we have since moved far away, so I don't have access to the same guy) gave the engine a tune-up and replace the spark plugs and everything was fine (well, for two years). The car has been idling rough, and the intake manifold may be warped. Could the intake manifold cause this? Distributor?
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2001 F150, about 3 weeks ago I drove through standing water that was probably about 2 feet deep, as soon as I did that the truck started jumping real bad and almost died. I drove it around for a little while and it started to run better. After that it started to feel like it was misfiring badly. Between 40 -50 mph on the highway just giving it gas a little the jumping was pretty bad.
I decided to change out the plugs, thought maybe water got onto them and this was causing the issue, this was my first time changing the plugs in the truck and it was not nearly as bad as it could have been! I was able to do all of the plugs except number 7. The fuel injection line is right on top of that plug and I did not want to remove it!
After changing the 7 plugs the truck is running better now, I have not yet felt the jumping that was happening, my problem is that on the 4 plugs on the passenger side all 4 looked to be covered in oil. My question is does this mean my head gasket is blown and how long do I have before I am going to have to put alot of money into this truck to fix this issue?
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Van will not start, battery has been tested and has a charge. Have tried to jump start the van and that will get the electrical system working but will not turn over the engine. I've had issues with the security system in the past not allowing the car to start, but past fixes fail to work this time.
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95 Nissan Quest, 145k It started with the oil light on and off. It was on when stop or slowing down and the light went off when accelerating over 25 or 30 mph. I did find there is an oil leaking somewhere. I planned to take it to garage for check up and the symptom disappeared. I used the car for short trip about two weeks and the symptom did not come back. I checked oil almost every day since then. Recently when I took a trip on highway, the light came on after about 30 miles. I stopped and checked oil. The oil was all right.
I started the car and light did not come on at the beginning. However, it came on (blinking) after 5 minutes of drive and I heard a clicking sound. I had it towed to a lcoal garage. The mechanic found a severe leak and need to replace ?gasket? or something like that, about a couple hours of work. He said the noise properly was from the lifter. However, when he checked the oil pressure, the pressure continued to drop to about 8 lb. He said the bearing properly worn and I will need a new engine. It properly not worth to replace the engine since it is 15-year old. But before I say good-bye to the car I just want to get a second opinion. Could it be something clog the oil pump screen? Would it be good to check that first? Is there anything I can do (within a reasonable cost) before declaring the death of the car?
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1998 Nissan Maxima had a check engine light come on and started running very rough. I took it to get a code read and came up with P0320 and P0325. I'm not worried about the 0325 since that's a knock sensor. 0320 is a misfire on cylinder 2.
With the car idling, I pulled the power connector from coil pack 2 to see if it made a difference in the idle - nope. I did the same for the other cylinders, and each responded with a noticeable change in the idle, which was remedied when it was reconnected.
I moved the coil pack from #2 to #4 (swapping them) and the same problem existed - idle was rough and didn't make a difference when I pulled the power on 2, but it did on all other coil packs. So, it seems the coil pack ins't the problem since multiple packs don't seem to make 2 work, but they work on other 4 and 6.
I then pulled the spark plug from cylinder 2, it was very black and looked in bad shape. I replaced it. Still no love.
I then put a spare plug in the coil and was able to see spark as the engine ran, so it seems that the coil pack at 2 is getting juice.
So, I have gas (big odor when the car is running - seems super rich) I have spark. Still running very rough and the 0320 code remains.
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My speedometer shows 15 mph at idle stop in Drive gear. Sometimes it fluctuates simultaneously with the engine. Then tachometer also fluctuates. I took it to the dealer, and they wanted to replace an instrument cluster (under the dashboard), but I declined. If it is a cluster, why does it fluctuate with the engine and tachometer? I took it to the shop, but it did not do it then.
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I have a 2011 Corolla LE with the automatic transmission. When traveling at a constant highway speed (i.e. 60 mph), the tachometer will start jumping around. It will jump up than down by anywhere from 200 rpm to 1000 rpm. It only lasts a few seconds then returns to normal. The dealer is saying that is just the electronic controlled transmission selecting the correct gear. I have never heard of this in any other car.
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Mechanics say they don’t know what wrong… I had some transmission work done on my truck – mostly an leak and replacing the harness – and ever since then after it rains or if we have a heavy dew my truck does the following:
Driving from O to 49 miles an hour truck is fine, as soon as I hit 50 the truck starts surging and you can see the tachometer jumping from 2000 RPM to 2500 RPMs. I drive around 17 miles to work where my truck will sit for seven hours. On the way home the truck is fine. I find this to be more of a problem when the truck has sat for a day or two over the weekend without driving it. Sometimes the “check engine” light will come on, sometimes not.
I have taken it to two different places and neither one says they can find anything wrong with the truck. I have driven this truck for over 11 years and know it very well. There is something wrong, but what? 1993 Chevy Silverado 3500 Diesel....
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I have a 2000 Nissan Quest. At 58MPH a vibration begins and shakes enough to make faster driving unpleasant. Have replaced motor mounts, all four wheel bearings, all four brakes, front rotors, rear drums, struts, rear shocks, tie rod ends, ball joints, steering rack, control arms and all 4 tires which have been balanced and checked several times. All of these parts had been worn and in need of replacement, the vehicle has 170K. The only thing I have not repaired is the rear stabilizer bar link bushings. The van drives beautifully at 55mph or lower. Has been a real puzzle and continues to be...Have noticed that when there is weight in the rear, or going uphill the vibration is subdued and even disappears...
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I have a 2001 Nissan Quest that vibrates starting at about 60 mph. I have balanced the wheels more than once. I have had repairs to the suspension. Now I notice that it vibrates only when accelerating or going up hill - not when the foot is off the gas pedal. What repairs should I accept or reject?
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I have an 04 Nissan Quest and my AC has been going in and out. When I drive the van for a while the AC will just suddenly stop working and then may come back on spontaneously a bit later. It can go in and out a few time in a 30-minute drive.
So, what was causing that I thought I'd try topping up the coolant which I don't think has been done to this van yet. I go buy the recharge kit at Advance. I follow all the instructions and attach the gauge and it tells me the PSI on the low side (I double checked) was over 100psi.
According to many places on the internet this means the compressor isn't running. But I'm getting cold air. So what would cause the compressor to not work (or the 100psi reading) but still allow me to be getting cold air? What to try next or what may be going on here?
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The A/C went out on my 2000 Nissan Quest. I took it to the shop and they couldn't find the problem and recommended not replacing the it because of the age and value of the car. However, the defroster doesn't work so it's almost impossible to see when it rains because the windshield has so much moisture on the inside. There is nothing blowing on it. Opening the windows did not work.
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I need to fix this since it keeps hitting 110 in tx.
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I have a 2007 Nissan Quest with only 74,000 miles. We recently bought new tires for it (like about year ago, and not very expensive either) and in the past few weeks it has developed road noise. I know sometimes tires wear differently and generate noise but this is more of a "whirring" sound. Could it be bearing? Torque converter? Axles?
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We have a 1996 Nissan Quest - but only 72000 miles (we bought it from our daughters' 90 year old piano teacher who only used it for camping trips with 45K miles 3 years ago) I have an intermittent stalling problem. Only at low speed, sometimes going up hill or into a turn, but it's also happened going straight on, I get a compete loss of power. Still have steering, (not power) so I wrestle the beast over, and it restarts right away. No check engine light. This has happened about 6 times. Not low gas level, usually 1/2 + tank. No codes.
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I have a 2004 Nissan Quest SE. We were on a trip and drove 15 hours to Florida which was a 870 mile trip. We had 104,440 miles on the van when we left, validated by the dealer service records and our own notes to track MPG. We arrived in FL and didn't notice the odometer. The van remained parked for 4 days. Upon leaving, we noticed it had 115,310 miles on the odometer. Upon checking the trip computer (setting 1), it did not reflect this 10k mile gain. The trip computer also didn't reflect a change in MPG with the additional 10k miles. The trip computer (setting 2) hasn't been reset in a very long time as we don't use it. and continued to show a total mileage just over 4k miles, therefore, also not reflecting this 10k mile gain in the odometer.What would cause this jump of 10k miles on the odometer?
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I have a 2005 Nissan Quest and the odometer area which also displays the fuel gauge fades in and out. random numbers fade away and reappear. Fuel level bars also fade and reappear. What could cause this? It is just old or is there another cause?
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2004 Nissan Quest... Leaking from right side of solenoid valve.
Should I replace valve or fix gasket? Where would it be leaking? From solenoid valve or heater coil? Lose 1 liter a week.
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The AC compressor on my 97 Quest cycles off and on way too fast when my defroster's on. I know the AC is supposed to dehumidify the incoming air - but it shouldn't be this rapid. Is there a way to control this or shut off the AC when the defroster's on ? 97 Nissan Quest..
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our 2001 Nissan Quest with 201,000 miles has recently started having some strange issues. The speedometer will suddenly drop to zero, and after a few seconds, come back up and work correctly. A couple of times, this was associated with the engine "chugging" and topping out at about 50 mph. If I stop, it will resume and run normally. I would love for this car to last me 2 more years.
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1999 Ford F-150 V8 5.4L... The other day I was attempting to fix my 4wd. I discovered that the vacuum tube by the 4wd solenoid had become disconnected. I reconnected it and in an effort to see if my fix was successful, I drove my truck up one of the canyons nearby. I got to an area full of loose rock and popped my truck into 4wd. As soon as I began to drive, the truck started idling very rough and died. I attempted to restart it for the next few minutes unsuccessfully. I got it started once and it continued to idle rough for a few seconds and died. I have not been able to start it since. It turns over but will not crank. It is not throwing any error codes. What I have checked so far:
Spark plugs are working.
When turning the ignition into the ON position, I am able to hear the fuel pump working.
I have not seen any cracks in the vacuum hose.
All the fuses are still okay.
What the culprit may be?
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