I have a 2002 Nissan Quest. It starts fine, idles great. But, when I try to accelerate, the car bogs, hesitates, misfires and I get p0300 random misfire, p0325 knock sensor. I get no dtc when it is just idling. The fuel pressure is fine, regulator works good, the cam sensor is clean, the coil tests good, the compression is good, as are the wires, cap and rotor.
View 2 RepliesAs the title says, I just replaced my JVC harness and glow plugs, now it start and run fine, but it will suddenly raise the idle to 1000rpm, and sit steadily untill I press the gas pedal, then it will fall into its normal idle range. I replaced the stuff today, and I did not get the time to get the engine hot, or test drive it, before I had to leave. But the engine did start fine, and idle fine. Except from the sudden raise after a few minutes idling, it will then hold around 1k rpm.
Strange, can't remember if it did that before. I get no fault codes on my SCT device. The car has been sitting for 3 months before I finally got the glowplug relay, mine was non functional.
328i, inline 6, starts fine. drive 100 yards to stop sign, give the car gas to go, and it seems to stumble or stutter. gas has to be pressed heavily to get it to smooth out. seems to get better as the engine warms up. no code or engine light comes up. thought the engine was just cold natured, wife says it does it with her even when warm, I couldn't duplicate when warm. Can dealer diagnosis with no code?
View 1 Replies1991 Regal, 3800 v6.
So here's an interesting observation. When i turn the ignition to ON, I hear no sound nor feel any vibration from the fuel pump. Is there any scenario where a fuel pump fails to prime yet kicks into gear after a start? So, I've got rough idles and misfires on cold starts. Before I start replacing parts my diagnostic plans is as follows:
Remove and inspect spark plugs.
Inspect and test starter coil/distributor (still have to research how to do this)
Test resistance on fuel injectors.
Test pressure drop on fuel rails.
Test compression for possible small head leak.
I'm wondering, if I do have a tiny head leak that is letting in a drip or two of coolant after hours of the engine sitting, will I be able to see this on the gauge doing a compression test? I've never done one before and still need to buy a gauge, but maybe I'm better off just doing the other tests and if they all check out I can be certain it is a minor head leak.
My assumption is that I have a leaking injector; just trying to do things the proper way.
I have a 2002 Nissan Frontier that a had a buddy perform a tune up. Now my buddy has disappeared and my truck miss fires on start up and occasionally looses power when you drive it. I also noticed that It consumes more gas. I went from 305 miles on a 17 gallon tank to 230 miles.
View 12 RepliesI have a 99 jimmy replaced rotary button, cap, plugs, wires. The truck doesn't seem to run right. It idles fine but when in load it starts to sputter a bit. Going down the road between 2000 and 2500 rpms the tach jumps a bit. Now if I put it to the floor the truck runs out fine.
View 3 RepliesJust recently my Prius Taxi with 340,000+Km has developed a little problem,it starts fine but after 20-30 seconds it begins to feel like it's not running properly on all four cylinders,if i go to the exhaust pipe it seems like it's spluttering slightly.
Yesterday I changed the plugs,checked air filter and all connections,everything fine, when I accelerate it feels hesitant but after the car gets up to temp it seems to go away,it only happens when i start it first thing or if it's been left for a few hours, it's never had the throttle body cleaned and I'm wondering if what I'm describing is a symptom of this?
Today I acquired a 1982 F150 with a 302 engine, 4 brl. Edelbrock carb. The truck starts and idles just fine, but when I come to a stop, try to give it gas to go it dies. It starts right back up, and I have to rev it high a couple of times then put it in gear and it will finally go. When I got it home I let it idle a few minutes and tried playing with the air and fuel mix but don't know what I'm doing, really. It seems I can hear a hiss, and when I was reaching for the air/fuel screws I got a little shock on the hand from the distributor. We want to use this truck as a farm truck, and plan to get a manual for it, but what might I might check for the cause of it stalling.
View 1 Replies2007 5.4 . Starts good , idles all day. As soon as you try to rev it, it stumbles rattles etc. Shut it off, wait a second, restart then Idles fine. I watched live Data and it carries on when the VVT solenoids become active (above 800 rpm).There duty cycle goes to 60-70 percent while revving. I think it Is just one side of the engine. Could be VVT solenoids sticking on? yes ? No?
View 3 RepliesJust as the title says, 214k great shape just wont get going more you mash the less it goes.... fuel pump already replaced, can undo battery and take a while to reset feels to do fine then goes back to bogging down... TPS ? idle air control?
View 3 RepliesHaving some problems with my 92 Nissan NX2000. i just finished changing the clutch on the car now its acting horrible.
When i start the car, it will run decent for like 2 or 3 seconds then the idle drops down till it almost dies, catches itself, idle goes up to about 500 were it will pulse around for a few seconds until it dies. If i rev it it will stay running, kept it running for about 2 mins. but as soon as i let off it will pulse at 500 until it dies
After i changed the clutch it started up fine, it ran great for about 20 seconds before it just died. when i started it after is when the problem arose.
I took a video of the car running, which can be seen here. [URL] .... (It has never caught itself like that before and jumped up to 1000 rpms before. It normally will die at that point)
The video is really quiet, not sure what happened there. if need be i can get a video of the engine bay so its louder, was mainly focused on the RPMs.
Here's a few things i tried: Checked fuses, Changed spark plug wires, made sure they were all seated good, MAF wires were rubbed a bit so i cut the MAF pigtail off one of my other sentras and soldered it on,Changed to a good battery, Changed fuel filter, Added more gas (in cause gauge is broken), Made sure all connectors are plugged in, Checked around for vacuum leaks, found that one of the large hoses coming off the intake going to the engine had separated so i plugged them back in and nothing.
The car idles rough on cold mornings but runs fine. It will stall while idling but starts back easily. I am getting a 1131 and a 1151 code with my scanner along with 0300 and lean bank 1 codes. I started having these problems after I had to remove the upper intake to replace coil packs. I was getting egr code and had an egr port completely block off but cleaned that out and no longer get the egr codes. Spraying carb cleaner around the engine I get a very slight bump in rpm around a couple of the intake ports could that be my problem or should I look deeper?
View 5 RepliesI have a 04 ls that has been with a mechanic who gives up. The car idles fine but has no power or acceleration all COP's have been changed. Also the computer is not throwing any codes. Mechanic says that cylinder 3,2,1 have sever mis fire and are pretty much dead but dose not know why.
View 3 RepliesStarts up fine but the car does not move. Car also has loud whine on cold starts coming out of driver side fender. It will also whine above 2000 rpm even after sitting out in the sun but goes away after driving. The car is at my parent's place and will be able to look at it later today..
View 4 Replies2002 Pontiac Grand Prix GT. It's got a NA SII 3800 3.8L engine. So far we have put $337 into trying to fix it. What happens is:
Go to start it.
Turn key to On.
Turn key to start.
It either cranks over a bunch of times and never starts or it starts and dies or it starts and is fine. Every time it wont start after cranking a bunch you give it GAS and it revs up real good and starts fine. Idles at around 1200 RPM. This poor car. There has never been anything wrong with it. Replaced the catalic convertor once and the battery once. We took it in and they replaced the Cam sensor and the Crank sensor to try and fix it because they said the fuel pump registered fine.
My friend told me for the past year she has been having trouble with her sentra. she has taken it to the dealer & they could not figure out whats going on. So here is what she described to me. '02 nissan sentra exe with 54k miles. when she gets to a stop light/sign and the car is at idle, it stalls. she said it stalls when slowly going in reverse out of her driveway and when she slows down to pull into her driveway. the check engine light has never turned on and the car starts back up again right away. What is going on?
View 6 Replies1999 Outback 2.5, idles fine but bogs or loss of power when stepping on throttle. Can "feather" or tease to get going and will hold rpm once it gets there...
View 5 RepliesI have a 2000 Nissan Quest. At 58MPH a vibration begins and shakes enough to make faster driving unpleasant. Have replaced motor mounts, all four wheel bearings, all four brakes, front rotors, rear drums, struts, rear shocks, tie rod ends, ball joints, steering rack, control arms and all 4 tires which have been balanced and checked several times. All of these parts had been worn and in need of replacement, the vehicle has 170K. The only thing I have not repaired is the rear stabilizer bar link bushings. The van drives beautifully at 55mph or lower. Has been a real puzzle and continues to be...Have noticed that when there is weight in the rear, or going uphill the vibration is subdued and even disappears...
View 6 RepliesI have a 2001 Nissan Quest that vibrates starting at about 60 mph. I have balanced the wheels more than once. I have had repairs to the suspension. Now I notice that it vibrates only when accelerating or going up hill - not when the foot is off the gas pedal. What repairs should I accept or reject?
View 2 RepliesI have an 04 Nissan Quest and my AC has been going in and out. When I drive the van for a while the AC will just suddenly stop working and then may come back on spontaneously a bit later. It can go in and out a few time in a 30-minute drive.
So, what was causing that I thought I'd try topping up the coolant which I don't think has been done to this van yet. I go buy the recharge kit at Advance. I follow all the instructions and attach the gauge and it tells me the PSI on the low side (I double checked) was over 100psi.
According to many places on the internet this means the compressor isn't running. But I'm getting cold air. So what would cause the compressor to not work (or the 100psi reading) but still allow me to be getting cold air? What to try next or what may be going on here?
The A/C went out on my 2000 Nissan Quest. I took it to the shop and they couldn't find the problem and recommended not replacing the it because of the age and value of the car. However, the defroster doesn't work so it's almost impossible to see when it rains because the windshield has so much moisture on the inside. There is nothing blowing on it. Opening the windows did not work.
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