Nissan - Quest :: 2000 Not Starting Up Properly / Takes 15 - 30 Minutes To Turn Over
Jan 16, 2011
My wife and I have a Nissan Quest 2000. Our vehicle broke down last November 21, 2010 and the mechanic replaced the alternator and the battery. Our vehicle worked fine after that, but two weeks ago the battery cable came loose and I had to have that fix, by another mechanic. Our van worked fine for a week and now the Quest takes 15-30 minutes to turn over. What is wrong?
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I have a 2001 Nissan Quest that vibrates starting at about 60 mph. I have balanced the wheels more than once. I have had repairs to the suspension. Now I notice that it vibrates only when accelerating or going up hill - not when the foot is off the gas pedal. What repairs should I accept or reject?
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I have a 2000 Nissan Quest. At 58MPH a vibration begins and shakes enough to make faster driving unpleasant. Have replaced motor mounts, all four wheel bearings, all four brakes, front rotors, rear drums, struts, rear shocks, tie rod ends, ball joints, steering rack, control arms and all 4 tires which have been balanced and checked several times. All of these parts had been worn and in need of replacement, the vehicle has 170K. The only thing I have not repaired is the rear stabilizer bar link bushings. The van drives beautifully at 55mph or lower. Has been a real puzzle and continues to be...Have noticed that when there is weight in the rear, or going uphill the vibration is subdued and even disappears...
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The A/C went out on my 2000 Nissan Quest. I took it to the shop and they couldn't find the problem and recommended not replacing the it because of the age and value of the car. However, the defroster doesn't work so it's almost impossible to see when it rains because the windshield has so much moisture on the inside. There is nothing blowing on it. Opening the windows did not work.
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I have a 2000 Saturn SL 1 and it takes about 20 minutes to get started and it started after the radiator was changed and I am losing coolant and I noticed a leak around the flex on the exhaust pipe could this be the starting problem?
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OK, so I recently purchased this car. When I turn the AC on, it literally takes 5-10 minutes for the ac to turn cold. Just the other day, I turned it on and nothing happen. The heat or the AC didn't kick on. Nothing was coming from the vents. What could be going on?
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1999 Accord, 110k mi., stalls while driving or stopped a few times a week, then takes a couple of minutes to turn over. Mechanic replaced or cleaned main relay, fuel pump, and ignition module. Could sell it but recently rebuilt tranny and replaced timing belt. Mechanic is stumped.
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My A/C takes 10 minutes to kick in after turning on and then only works if the car is running at a stoplight or otherwise stationary. I've tried adding coolant and changing the cabin air filters.
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OK so my 2003 Nissan maxima is hard to start all the time after its been sitting for a few minutes like 30min or more also I'm getting a CEL light.
See the video : [URL] ....
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The other day I went to the store for an errand in my 1995 Nissan Sentra. When I parked my car my key seemed to be stuck; I jiggled it out a little after putting it in park and turning it off. I came back and couldn't seem to get the key in properly to turn it over, but eventually after some fidgeting I got it in. I turned it over and it started, but I couldn't take the car out of park. When I pushed down the brake, the gear shifter wouldn't move. I left it there and came back yesterday -- I was able to start the car, but had to fool around with the key a bit to get it to go in properly and the gear shifter still won't move out of park. Is this a transmission problem, an ignition problem, something else, or all of the above.
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I have a 2005 nissan maxima that won't start. I have a new starter and battery. When I turn the key everything in the car comes on except for the car (it also makes no sound when you turn the key). I checked to see if it was the ignition switch by bridging the connection on the starter with a screw driving. The starter comes on but the car wont start. It tried starting it in neutral (still doesn't work). It's not the security because the light turns off when you try to start it.
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My 2002 Honda CRV has had occasional problems starting over the years i.e. takes 2 times to start engine. But lately it is struggling more to start i.e., engine turns over but you can hear it struggling to start i.e. sounds like dead battery but in fact battery is brand new. Now it can take 3 turns to start and this morning it took 5 tries. The problem is no mechanic can find out what is wrong i.e. starter, fuel line, electrical or what? because it always starts when in the shop. I have even taken it to the Honda dealer and they could not find the problem. This is a random problem but seems to be getting worse and happening more often. I am worried I will be stuck somewhere when the car does not start AT ALL one day.
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I have an 04 Nissan Quest and my AC has been going in and out. When I drive the van for a while the AC will just suddenly stop working and then may come back on spontaneously a bit later. It can go in and out a few time in a 30-minute drive.
So, what was causing that I thought I'd try topping up the coolant which I don't think has been done to this van yet. I go buy the recharge kit at Advance. I follow all the instructions and attach the gauge and it tells me the PSI on the low side (I double checked) was over 100psi.
According to many places on the internet this means the compressor isn't running. But I'm getting cold air. So what would cause the compressor to not work (or the 100psi reading) but still allow me to be getting cold air? What to try next or what may be going on here?
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Van will not start, battery has been tested and has a charge. Have tried to jump start the van and that will get the electrical system working but will not turn over the engine. I've had issues with the security system in the past not allowing the car to start, but past fixes fail to work this time.
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I need to fix this since it keeps hitting 110 in tx.
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I have a 2007 Nissan Quest with only 74,000 miles. We recently bought new tires for it (like about year ago, and not very expensive either) and in the past few weeks it has developed road noise. I know sometimes tires wear differently and generate noise but this is more of a "whirring" sound. Could it be bearing? Torque converter? Axles?
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We have a 1996 Nissan Quest - but only 72000 miles (we bought it from our daughters' 90 year old piano teacher who only used it for camping trips with 45K miles 3 years ago) I have an intermittent stalling problem. Only at low speed, sometimes going up hill or into a turn, but it's also happened going straight on, I get a compete loss of power. Still have steering, (not power) so I wrestle the beast over, and it restarts right away. No check engine light. This has happened about 6 times. Not low gas level, usually 1/2 + tank. No codes.
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I have a 2004 Nissan Quest SE. We were on a trip and drove 15 hours to Florida which was a 870 mile trip. We had 104,440 miles on the van when we left, validated by the dealer service records and our own notes to track MPG. We arrived in FL and didn't notice the odometer. The van remained parked for 4 days. Upon leaving, we noticed it had 115,310 miles on the odometer. Upon checking the trip computer (setting 1), it did not reflect this 10k mile gain. The trip computer also didn't reflect a change in MPG with the additional 10k miles. The trip computer (setting 2) hasn't been reset in a very long time as we don't use it. and continued to show a total mileage just over 4k miles, therefore, also not reflecting this 10k mile gain in the odometer.What would cause this jump of 10k miles on the odometer?
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I have a 2005 Nissan Quest and the odometer area which also displays the fuel gauge fades in and out. random numbers fade away and reappear. Fuel level bars also fade and reappear. What could cause this? It is just old or is there another cause?
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2004 Nissan Quest... Leaking from right side of solenoid valve.
Should I replace valve or fix gasket? Where would it be leaking? From solenoid valve or heater coil? Lose 1 liter a week.
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95 Nissan Quest, 145k It started with the oil light on and off. It was on when stop or slowing down and the light went off when accelerating over 25 or 30 mph. I did find there is an oil leaking somewhere. I planned to take it to garage for check up and the symptom disappeared. I used the car for short trip about two weeks and the symptom did not come back. I checked oil almost every day since then. Recently when I took a trip on highway, the light came on after about 30 miles. I stopped and checked oil. The oil was all right.
I started the car and light did not come on at the beginning. However, it came on (blinking) after 5 minutes of drive and I heard a clicking sound. I had it towed to a lcoal garage. The mechanic found a severe leak and need to replace ?gasket? or something like that, about a couple hours of work. He said the noise properly was from the lifter. However, when he checked the oil pressure, the pressure continued to drop to about 8 lb. He said the bearing properly worn and I will need a new engine. It properly not worth to replace the engine since it is 15-year old. But before I say good-bye to the car I just want to get a second opinion. Could it be something clog the oil pump screen? Would it be good to check that first? Is there anything I can do (within a reasonable cost) before declaring the death of the car?
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