Nissan - Pulsar :: Loss Of Power At High Speed
May 14, 2015
I have a Nissan pulsar n16 (almera) auto. About 8 months ago I was driving on freeway, had loss of power at high speed and felt like it was going to stall. When I accelerated it jerked a bit and kept losing more power each time I pushed the accelerator. Actually felt like I was braking slightly. There was also a large cloud of smoke that came out. Since then I have kept taking back to mechanic and each time something replaced to fix problem but still occurring as well as oil consumption, previously NEVER used oil. So far I've had replaced:
Fuel pump
Starter motor
Finally motor rebuild a month ago due to to broken piston ring, which was meant to be the cause of all the problems.I am still having the same problems and just noticed again oil was nearly empty. What else it could be?Catalytic converter? Ignition leads?If my motor was rebuilt could it be something else using the oil? Or are these symptoms of a other underlying problem that is causing all these?When my motor was pulled apart I was told was in very good condition apart from broken ring.
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I have a mk4 TDI. Running 18" 225/40 and coil overs. My car began to have a loose steering wheel and was unstable at high speed so i did alignment and it was bad. when they fixed it next day it broke again. My front wheels end up being too open. If front left is straight than the front right is too much open, like i am turning right. i did alignment again in the shop, they made them straight and it broke again next day. What can cause that my allignment breaks every day? Shop doesn't know.
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I have a 2000 Nissan Xterra 3.3L, at 114,000 miles I changed all the belts two days ago these being 3 serpentine accessory belts and the timing belt with tensioner. I do believe that the engine did not move (cams & crank) while replacing timing belt and even made sure the timing marks all lined up on the cams and the crank upon installation. The belt tension on timing belt was done to Chilton Spec. as well. I did not tighten the serpentines to spec. , but just to best judgment. Between idle -to- 3000 the engine does not seem as strong especially up hill. It idles smooth, does not overheat and there is no tapping/knocking or a check engine light. I was told that that with new belts (especially the timing belt) the motor may have to wear to the belts or vice versa and there may be some power loss till all wears in together do to now tighter tolerances. I was going to relieve some tension on the serpentines to see if maybe that would make a difference in regaining power.
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'04 Nissan Pathfinder 3.5L ~150k: P0011 and P0021
Friend's vehicle. OBD-II codes indicate Intake Valve Timing Control Bank1 and Bank2. Vehicle drives OK most of the time, but then has lapses of lost power where you step on the gas and the vehicle doesn't accelerate accordingly. RPMs rise, but tranny doesn't seem to shift at the right time. Overdrive button OFF doesn't seem to have any affect. Codes have been erased and returned the next day.
Is this Camshaft-related, as in Camshaft Position sensor? I had this issue with my '97 Taurus, but in that case it threw the code explicitly for the CMP sensor.
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My Nissan Maxima GLE 2000 is showing CEL with code of P1320 ONLY, and the car is running rough/or loss of power. The shop that checked for the code advised that it could be something related to Ignition, and also provided me with the system generated list of reasons for the code. Before I decide to do anything, I wanted to check what option I have to address this in a most cost effective manner:
1) Is there a quick way to check which coil would have gone bad ?
2) Is it advisable to change 1 LH and 1RH at a time, and see if it fixes the problem ?
3) Could it be cam shaft sensor that could have gone bad ? Are there any symptoms of cam shaft sensor failure to isolate it to one way or the other ?
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I drive a new to me 2005 F350, he has a 2001 F350. While we were talking he said he didn't think his pickup had the power it should have. He pulls a 5th wheel camper that weighs around 8000 pounds fully loaded. He said it takes a couple of miles to get to 55 mph, and it is hard to hold the speed. It doesn't have the power it did when he first got it last year. He was told that a diesel is slow getting started. He rode with me in mine, when I dropped it about half throttle to pass a slow car he said he could tell mine had way more power.
His check engine light is not on, it starts good both when hot and when cold. It runs smooth, no miss as far as I can tell listening to it. What are some common issues that could cause this? He did just change the oil and fuel filters, not sure about the air filter. He said the power loss came before he serviced the engine, and did not improve after the fuel filter change. Where to start? He was also told to check the filter inside of his fuel tank, so he is getting ready to drop his tank.
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Firstly, I've had an extensive look through the forum for existing threads dealing with this issue and have found a couple that seem to match... however I'm not entirely sure because noted that they had the car CEL come on... My wife's car doesn't. These threads dealt with gear shift flare, range selector switch faults, ECM reprogram - RPM flatspot... All except the latter noted that the CEL light came on...
Our problem - Loss of power and speed at 100km/h (auto trans)
In fourth gear (auto) traveling at 100km/h, RPM at this stage has settled to around 2100-2300. Then kicks down into 3rd (I'm assuming) with RPM just above 3000, and with little acceleration slowly build up to 100km/h and then start losing.
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Towing a 5th wheel at about 10,000 lbs total. Towards the end of out 9 hour trip home and going upgrade the truck begins to loos power and the engine starts making some bad sounds. Although its hard to hear it starts about 45 seconds in and continues later when going uphill. the truck also made a very high pitched squealing/scraping sound (not a belt) like it may have been coming from the turbo. Oil temp was about 220, trans temp at 170 at the time of the event.
Truck has 216k, stock, upgraded trans cooler, original fuel pump.
Here is the video : YouTube.....
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I've got an '05 Tacoma 4WD with 145,000 miles. Very recently, when taking right curves at moderate speed ( e.g. freeway cloverleaf onramps), I'll lose power at the apex of the curve. It comes back immediately when the I straighten out. No warning lights on panel. It feels like no gas since there's no difference when I press the accelerator pedal.
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On my '03 Santa Fe 2.7, this has happened twice, with 500 or so uneventful miles in between. At highway speed, it just all of a sudden loses power and will only go about 50 mph with accelerator to the floor. When you stop & put in neutral, it only revs to about 3000 rpm, with pedal to the floor -yet idles fine. Then when you shut it down, wait a few minutes & start it back up, it's fine. Is this a fuel problem or what?
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With only 356k miles on my 06, I'm now getting a sudden drop/loss of power at high RPM. At about 80mph on flat land (or about 60mph up hill) if I try to accelerate the power drops off as a fluttering sound starts (not engine knock). The fluttering sounds like 6 inches of celophane tape flapping in the wind at highway speeds.
I just cleaned my K&N air filter, but the plugs, injectors and fuel pump are original. I ran 1 can of injector cleaner (SeaFoam from O'Reilly) with little to no improvement. I'm guessing it's the fuel pump/pressure, since it runs fine at lower RPM, with no loss of mpg or power (still 50mpg average). I know the fuel pump is in the tank ($400 in parts alone). I'll see if I can measure the rail pressure with Torque and my CANBUS scanner.
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My wife was driving our 08 B6 yesterday and suddenly had a loss of power. Check engine light was on. Took it to the dealer and we heard back today that the high pressure fuel pump had gone out. I had heard of the TDI's having this problem and I know BMW had to do a recall on the same issue. I didn't know that the 2.0 TSI had this problem.
I'm a little bit concerned 'cause we leased the car for 3 years and didn't have a single problem. I thought it was very solid so we decided to buy the car last month Now my confidence in the car is a little bit rattled.
The car is under warranty. I just hope that this is not the kind of thing that's going to go out every 20K miles! Out of warranty, this repair would have been costly.
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My 2006 F150 King Ranch 90K 5.4 lags both torque and power in addition to only 11-12 MPG
In the city it does not bother me to much but when on the highway trying its very annoying. I used to have 2005 F-150 before so I know the difference. When I accelerate its ok but lags some serious power especially at high RPM. but without any hesitation. When I try to tow my trailer or go uphill it has no torque. I still haven't tried a dyno reading
Note: The engine runs smooth, no misfires or shows no codes. The only codes I got before was for the evaporation system but disappeared after I replaced the Fuel Pump Driver Module
Now I already replaced the: Spark plugs, mass airflow sensor, cats, air filter, fuel filter + fuel pump driver module, bought another tuner. I even took it to the dealership without any findings
Now I am beginning to think if the engine timing could be slightly wrong. I just can't figure out what it is if it throws no codes and runs perfectly smooth. It's just like it's not getting enough air or fuel but without any hesitation or misfire.
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Symptoms:
-Car "Surges" at any speed. Loss of power is significant.
-Check engine light is on , DTC code = P0420
Tried:
-Fuel injector cleaner
-Spark plugs replaced around 40k miles ago
-Checked for leaking valve cover gasket (oil in plug wells) None
Can a clogged fuel filter cause this? At idle the car is fine, the symptoms seem to only occur when car is under load (In drive). My son drove this car an it always seemed empty meaning he never put much gas in it.
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Ok, so I was driving normal highway speeds and all of a sudden, I realize a major drop in power. I pull over and restart it and it changes nothing. Now when I floor it, it takes 20-30 seconds to get to 90K.
I checked the air filter... Nothing. Used a code reader... Nothing. Then I decided to pressure test the cylinders... Nothing, except now the check engine light is on.
The Ol Dub is still drivable, but it is extremely slow and rough at idle. I am thinking it might be a MAF or fuel filter.
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My 2006 Sonata V6 (88k miles) has an occasional power steering loss. It has only been noticed right after slowing down from highway speed. Total loss for a few seconds then comes back. No dash lights or noises, just cant steer - then can. Did all required maint. until 60k then just oil changes by me. Have read other forums about fluid flush, but that was for noise and I don't have any noise. This has happened with and without the Electronic Stability Control turned on. Other than that, runs great. MPG is about 25 or so (wish was 30 or so).
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My daughter has a 2001 Prius with about 165,000 miles on it. She was driving it and the red high temp light came on and stayed on. She also said that a few minutes later she lost power. She stopped and turned it off. Waited a few minutes, and started it again. The light went off and she drove it home about 5 miles. The light came on when she got home. No engine codes. I changed the thermostat. I filled it back up with fresh antifreeze and water and took out to test drive. No leaks. 2 miles down the road the light came back on. I stopped and checked it. upper radiator hose, hot and lower hose cold. Radiator not warm. Blowing out hot air with the heater. I think the water pump belt is on, as i am at work right now but will check as soon as I get home. I took the old thermostat and put it in a pan of boiling water and it opened, so apparently it was the thermostat.
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My ranger sounds like it's revving up real high when I take off but don't have much power. Know what this could be?
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Occasionally, randomly, and unpredictably when accelerating from a slow speed coast I get no power response when I press down on the accelerator. It's as if the engine has stalled, but it has not. When the accelerator is held down for a few seconds (maybe 3 to 7) power comes back with a rush. Examples:
1. Making a U turn from a left turn late. Accelerate slowly forward, take foot off gas as the turn is initiated, press down on gas to accelerate out of the turn and get no immediate power response.
2. Making a left turn into a suicide lane. Accelerate to cross 2 traffic lanes, let off gas and coast slowly forward in the suicide lane while waiting for oncoming traffic to clear, traffic clears, press down on gas and get to response. Continue to press slowly down--no response. Hold the accelerator half or 3/4 down, power surges back after a few seconds.
3. Rolling slowly down a long left turn lane with foot off gas timing oncoming traffic, traffic clears, press down on gas to initiate the turn, no response. Let up on gas and press down again, no response, let up an press down again and car reacts normally.
Occurrences of this problem have been very random. I have spent a good deal of time in vacant parking lots trying to cause the problem to occur without any luck even though I know well the conditions under which it happens. I have left the car with the dealer but, of course, they can't observe the problem either. I have driven nearly 1000 miles without an incident and then had 2 occurrences within 4 miles of each other. I have about 5000 miles on the car and have logged 17 incidents.
Loosing power in traffic is, of course, dangerous. I was about to initiate action under California's Lemon Law when I went to England for 3 weeks in Sept. I rented an Audi A1 and to my surprise I experienced a very similar problem, but it happened much more often. An example would be entering a roundabout, letting up on the accelerator while looking at directional signs, reapplying accelerator pressure and getting no response. Unlike the Hyundai I didn't seem to lose all power, but couldn't get any acceleration. The Hyundai engine is the 4 cylinder turbo and has an electronic throttle. I don't know what the Audi had by way of mechanics. I'm at a complete loss; is there something I don't understand about electronic throttles? I don't have a clue about the source of this problem, but I know I need to get it resolved before I get rear ended.
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My car (Nissan 1998) runs normally for miles. Then sometimes it just starts lurching while in motion when the gas is depressed and looses speed, as if not getting fuel. Previous times it dies after this. The last time I was on the highway going 70 and I pulled over before it lost power and died completely. Just had new brakes installed, new distributor, all new belts, and an oil leak fixed by a mechanic.
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My wife and I recently moved to Panama and we bought a 4 wheel drive 2007 Nissan Frontera diesel pick-up. Great little truck so far, 27 miles per/gal! However, the 5 speed manual transmission has started making a loud whine or growl under power. Down hill, gas pedal up, no noise. Clutch in, no noise. Gas pedal down, growling .Growl is related to ground speed as it stays the same when I shift gears.
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