Nissan - Pickup :: 1997 - AC Blows Cold For A Little While Then Warm
Aug 4, 2012
My AC blows cold for a little while, then it blows warm. If I wait and turn it back on the cycle repeats it self. I had the freon filled. Not sure what to do? 1997 nissan pickup....
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have a 1997 nissan pickup 2.4 liter engine check engine light came on code say number 2 cylinder misfiring put in shop. they say that they can't get to misfire.truck run great.just that light keep coming on with code (p o 302)
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(code p.o.302) number 2 cylinder misfiring. 1997 nissian pickup 2.4 liter automatic. when I take truck out on highway check engine light come on with code p.0.302.when I get back to town. and cut truck off for maybe 20 minute. check engine light go off automatic I do not have to use a scan tool to erase. As long as I am in town light. say off. when I get back on highway check engine light come back on. have had 3 mechanic look at this they can't get it to misfire. they tell me the fuel and spark are doing what they support to do..do you think maybe computer bad. has 255,000 miles
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my mechanic is stump have a 1997 Nissan pickup 2.4 liter auto tranny. number 2 cylinder misfiring.my mechanic say it have fuel, spark. and he did a compression check say compression is good. code (p. o 302) keep coming on. he change spark plug and wire and distributor cap and rotor. but light keep coming on. he say the only other thing he can think may be is. to change the whole distributor he say the cam sensor is in the distributor. tuck have 264,000 mile on it.
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97 Nissan Pick Up, 5 speed manual, 192k. The specified oil is 75w90. When it was new, I drained to factory fill out and refilled it with Mobil one 75w90 synthetic and a bottle of Slick 50 for Manual Transmissions (I do not use Slick 50 in the motor). This has worked very well for me in past transmissions. Anyway, at around 160k, I would hear an occasional whine when at a steady 55 mph on level ground. If the road grade changed or I changed speed, it would go away.
At the 180k oil change, I decided to check the the transmission oil level. It was bone dry. The capacity is 2.1 qts and it took 2.1 qts to fill it. I filled it with Mobil One 75w90 again. I have checked it at each oil change and so far, it hasn't lost any oil since I filled it. I still have the whine at 55 mph on level ground and it still goes away with any pitch or speed change.
Now my question, would there be any benefit to switching to a synthetic 75w140 or a conventional 85w140? I'm thinking that the 75w140 wouldn't change anything but the 85w140 might.
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1997 King Cab XE Pickup... Over the last couple of years, a noise comes from the dash of my pickup at speeds above about 30MPH, especially during acceleration. It is especially bad when I drop from 5th to 4th gear to pass someone (worse on a hill, extra load) but quiets some when going back to 5th gear (never completely goes away). What is making this noise??
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Heat blows warm at best and A/C isn't all that cold. I want to believe its a blend door issue and dive into it this weekend and fix it but there isn't a single piece of foam coming out of any of the vents. Of all the systems on the car, HVAC isn't my cup of tea I don't know anything about it. What else could be the problem? I can live without A/C but the heat things must be fixed.
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So i just had my R32 at the stealership to get my AC recharged. Ever since ive noticed that my AC doesn't always blow cold. It will vary from cold to warm and back to cold then warm. Im not even sure what to start looking for as the issue
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Here's the situation....It blows cold for about 5 mins, then the air starts to warm and stays warm. I just bought the truck 06 350 crew cab and they supposedly charged the system. I'm wondering if it has a leak but it should start out blowing warm air? I just wanted some thoughts before I start throwing money at it.
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My 2007 es350 77k miles. Heater starts to get warm and then it blows cold air. What could cause this.
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1997 Nissan pickup 2.4 liter auto.gas gauge drop to all most empty when driving.then i can hit a bump in the road and it will go back to normal.
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The air coming out the right front vents is cold; but, the air coming out the left front vents (driver's side) is warm. Sliding left ac slider switch up and down did no good. Considered fuse, but both left and right AC controls run through same fuse. Suspect bad motor for left side plenum duct, or bad connection, or faulty vacuum at motor (if motor is vacuum actuated). Considering removing dash cover to see if I can find the motor, but not sure how to remove dash cover, or even if that's the way to find the motor.
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I have a 2009 Camry LE (4 cylinder) that has an intermittent operating A/C unit. The blower will always work, however the cold A/C only operates intermittently, but the unit will continue to blow warm air half the time and cold air the other half of the time while in the cold mode.
I read that there is a relay fuse in the 5th Generation Camry, which sounds like my problem, however, I am not able to locate such a fuse in the 6th Gen Camry.
Could it be a relay fuse? Any other culprits? I would like to see if this is a problem that I can fix.
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The front a/c blows cold air but the 2nd row and back blows warm. Yes the temp dial is on cold on both dials. Is there a separate a/c clutch that I dont know about to ck the air gap? Is there a separate port to put freon in besides the front. I need to get this fixed because with my bulldogs in the back the heat will kill them.
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2007 F350 Dually, 6.0L
AC will blow cold, then shift to blowing warm, muggy air, then back to cold. Seems to be some relationship with throttle movement. Cruising steady ac seems normal. Multiple throttle shifts in changing traffic seems to trigger the warm air. Once accelerate back to normal cruise, can feel clutch/compressor shift and blows cold again.
Any ideas? I have read a possible cause can be the ac clutch can wear and need to remove spacers? Is this a DIY job? What about the ac clutch relay switch? On reading an online repair manual, seems that the clutch is magnetic, and if no battery power to clutch, it removes itself from compressor?
Just had an EGR delete kit installed. Any relationship to this and ac problem?
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I need to diagnose a heat problem. I have a 2001 F150 XL. 4.2L Manual controls. The a/c blows nice and cold, but when you put the heat on its not really hot, blows warm air. I changed the blend door actuator,it got a little warmer. Now that winter is around the corner need to figure it out and fix it. The thermostat, water pump, and coolant flushed before I bought it. Could it be the blend door itself, or is there another actuator I'm missing.
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I have a 1997 ford f 150 lariat with the 4.6 v8 and my engine had a piston slap so I replaced the engine with a used one and I put a new water pump on the engine. My problem is the heater does not get hot and it only gets warm when I get on the freeway and the rpms stay steady for a bit. but when i idle it just blows cool air. the heat door works cause I can turn it to cold air when I'm on the freeway and i just replaced the thermostat so I don't believe its that. It weird because the heater worked fine before I changed out the engine so i cant figure it out. the only thing i can think of is the water pump is bad out of the box. Could it be the belt or does spacing on the water pump have something to do with it. nothing is leaking.
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So the other morning I drive the 140 miles out of town to work for the week. when I pull up to the job site the cooling fans were revving really really high! never heard this before. then it went back to normal after I opened the gate and parked my truck and shut it off. I'm driving maybe 5 miles tops to the job and back to the motel every day. however that is far enough that my heater should be warming up and it's not even coming close to warm. it blows cold air. and to compound that I'm not sure the cooling fans are even working. they don't appear to be. Is there a connection here?
2011 xlt 4x4 super crew.....
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I am the proud owner of a 2002 F250 Super Duty 4x4, which has 158K miles on it. I live in South Florida and use the truck as my daily driver and also from trips up into the Blue Ridge Mountains.
Recently, I noticed that when I have the A/C on it blows nice and cold for about 15 minutes, but then the air gets really warm. I had the system checked and the Freon levels are right where they should be. A bit of experimenting reveals that if I turn off the A/C for about 10 or 15 minutes after it starts to blow warm air, the systems blows cool air as it is supposed to.
Therefore, I suspect that something is freezing under the hood and preventing the system from operating properly. Since A/C is pretty well essential for us in south Florida, this is a problem, when I have the family or customers in the truck.
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Why my air-conditioning only blows cold on the passenger side on the driver's side It barley bows cold most of the time it is warm.
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Why my 1995 740i only blows out cold on the drivers side and warm on the pass side? this happens when i put the a/c on.
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