Nissan - Pickup :: 1986 - Just Clicking When Trying To Restart After About One Hour Of Shut Off
Feb 17, 2013
Two wheel drive, small engine with two spark plugs per cylinder...clutch with five speed transmission. Over two hundred thousand miles on it. Drove it thirty miles on a rainy evening. Shut it off for about one hour and when I tried to restart, it just went click. Got towed thirty miles home. Replaced starter with brand new one and also new battery. Still nothing but click-click. Does start from clutch engagement when rolling. The trouble seems to be somewhere between the starter and the battery. What to do?
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I have an 86 Nissan pickup with a z24 motor in it, yes the weird 4 cyl. With 8 plugs. It has been lurching when I let off the throttle or sometimes when I accelerate. Its been doing it for a year and won't do it all the time it is intermittent but does it more then it doesn't.
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The problem I'm having is it starts fine in the morning but when I shut it off it it takes about an hour to start back up ..
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I have a 91 Nissan pick up that is just making a clicking noise upon trying to start it. I replaced the battery. The inside light works, radio works, dash clock works, but still just clicking upon trying to start. Is there a clutch safety switch that could cause this, or starter, or ???
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My 1998 Nissan Altima 4 cyl (auto) shut down on highway, would not restart, and had to be towed. My mechanic told me it is the computer. After seeing prices for new ECMs from a Nissan parts site, I am wondering if something else needs to be replaced. I don't want to put that kind of money into a 14 year old car with other problems and mileage of 155,000. Could whatever caused the computer to stop working be an additional cost. The mechanic provided minimal information and is actually recommending I get rid of the car due to a slow oil leak and control arm bushings that eventually need to be replaced. However, it just passed inspection and a few months ago, I replaced 4 tires and brake rotors.
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There have been two instances where I have shut the car off and then it is dead when I try to restart. Not even any clicking. After it sits, it may start again. We replaced the battery, but the car wouldn't start again. Same symptoms... No clicking, or anything like that. Nissan dealer says the battery is fine and if it happens again, replace the battery because maybe it's faulty.
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I have a 1986 Toyota pickup. It's small 2 wheel drive with a stick shift. 6 weeks ago, it started lugging very slightly on hills after I had first started the car (only in the first 5 minutes of driving). Then that stopped, and now it loses power on hills so that I have to keep shifting down and going slower until I'm chugging uphill in 2nd gear at 30 mph. It only happens on long hills with a sustained uphill; smaller ones it keeps speed and power fine.
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When adjusting valves on a 1986 22RE Toyota engine, the manual says to adjust intake to .008 and exhaust to .011 when the engine is "hot". I was doing some research and it seems to be a somewhat common practice to adjust valves on these engines to .007 intake and .011 exhaust when the engine is cold. The explanation being that the clearances will open up some when the engine warms up or gets to "hot". I always thought the clearances would get tighter as the engine warmed up but my "knowledge" is based on traditional pushrod engines and this is an overhead cam engine. If adjusted cold, will the clearances get smaller or larger when the engine is hot? And is it ok to adjust the valves cold? And how hot is correct amount of hot if I adjust them according to the manual?
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I have a a 1995 GMC Sonoma 5-speed 4 cylinder pickup. When I drive this truck for any amount of time and turn it off for a few minutes (0 minutes - 1 hourish) the truck runs really rough for the first minute and almost dies. Then it will start running normally again after I've putted down the road a block or two. A couple of times this truck has died completely after running rough and won't start again for almost an hour afterwards.
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I have 2009 tacoma pickup w/10k After starting fine and driving a few mins. and turning off it will not restart for aleast 10=15 mins. All the instr. lights come on like normal.....but it will not crank nothing? no starter noise ...nothing I contacted my dealer The service guy said (never heard that before)....
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My car would start, drive some 35 miles, and after a wait of an hour, wouldn't start again. The battery was replaced and the next day, same problem. The alternator and starter test fine and I am told that the problem is in the "computer" - the security system is telling the auto lockup to occur. The red security light on the dashboard does come on after driving a short distance. I am told the "computer" will cost about $1100. Does this sound like the probable cause and a reasonable cost to repair?
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Just replaced the starter and battery on my old but loved 4Runner. I drove it for an hour and a half last week and couldn't restart it. Just nothing - one click I think. A friend tapped on the starter and it started...but I'm not sure whether the car just cooled down at that point. Took it to the garage and they said they couldn't find anything wrong (no surprise, right?) Now I'm afraid to take longer trips.
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Fuel injected 429 (same as 460). Will run for 10-30 minutes then stall and not restart until 5-60 minutes later. Has fuel pressure at rail.
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My 1986 B2000 problems started when the engine would run for a few minutes and not restart. After it sat a while, it would restart.
Through out the process of seeking a fix, I have replaced the fuel pump, coil, distributor cap, rotor, pick-up coil in the distributor, condenser, and spark plug wires and coli wire.
Currently, there is no spark out of the coil wire feeding the distribute.There are 12 volts at the positive and negative side of the coil terminals when the key is in the “run” position.There is about 10 volts to each coil terminal when the engine is cranking over.
I have tried using the old coil and the old pick-up coil in the distributor, but with no luck.
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I have a 2004 Oldsmobile Alero 4 cylinder with 127K miles. After driving for a period of 30 to 45 minutes, it will cut off and it takes 30 minutes to an hour before it will restart. I have had the fuel pump, crankshaft position sensor, ignition control module, coil pack and computer replaced and I am still having the same problem. What might be causing this?
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I have a 86 Ranger with the 2.3L fuel injected 4 cylinder and a 5 speed manual transmission. I can drive it for hours on the highway but if I get caught in stop and go traffic, it stalls and won't restart for about 10 minutes. When trying to restart it acts as if it is fuel starved. Spraying carb cleaner in the throttle body does make it run for a second or two. I was getting a code 18 & 67 before I changed the ignition module, now I just get code 67 or 11. I have done the following:
-Changed both fuel pumps, tank and frame rail pump (did one at a time, no improvement)
-Changed all fuel filters (in line filter, fuel reservoir filter and tank filter)
-Changed ignition module on distributer
-Changed both relays that control fuel pumps
-Cleaned battery terminals and body ground connections.
-New gas tank fill cap
I'm at a loss now as to what to do. I have been checking the codes with my multi-meter. I do not have a OBD1 diagnostic tool.
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I have a 95 nissan pickup V6 hardbody and speedometer goes in and out when it is out i just pound on dash and it will work. I took it apart and put white gauges on it and cleaned the connectors with electric spray. Put back together and it's still doing the same thing. But now when I hit dash it dosent work. Check engine light does come on if it don't work. But it did before till I pounded the dash then it went out.
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have a 1997 nissan pickup 2.4 liter engine check engine light came on code say number 2 cylinder misfiring put in shop. they say that they can't get to misfire.truck run great.just that light keep coming on with code (p o 302)
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(code p.o.302) number 2 cylinder misfiring. 1997 nissian pickup 2.4 liter automatic. when I take truck out on highway check engine light come on with code p.0.302.when I get back to town. and cut truck off for maybe 20 minute. check engine light go off automatic I do not have to use a scan tool to erase. As long as I am in town light. say off. when I get back on highway check engine light come back on. have had 3 mechanic look at this they can't get it to misfire. they tell me the fuel and spark are doing what they support to do..do you think maybe computer bad. has 255,000 miles
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Coolant temperature gauge bounce up and down.
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We have a Nissan Pickup that anytime (in every gear) that the truck reaches 2700 rpm it begins to jerk-feels like you're trying to start it in 3rd gear instead of first. We have had it in a shop with someone who just repairs Nissan's and have been unable to find the problem for over a year. Have looked at the catalytic converter, fuel pump, and air flow meter...nothing has worked...
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