Nissan - Pathfinder :: 2002 - Take Long Time To Start - Fuel System?
Jun 14, 2011
My wife's Pathfinder (a 2002) has developed a problem with slow starting. The car cranks well (even at -20F, so it's not a weak battery) but takes a long time to start. It might crank for 5 seconds before sputtering to life. After being driven and shut off, most of the time, it will start up instantly again, just like it used to before the problem started. The problem is intermittent in that it sometimes starts pretty quickly in the morning, although it's not the instant start that it used to be, it might only crank for 1 second or less. I know that sounds like a normal time for a car to crank before starting, but the Pathfinder used to start, almost literally, instantly after the key was turned. So, even 1 second is an uncharacteristically long time.
What I've done:
-- Replaced spark plugs
-- Swapped the starter relays with identical relays under hood
-- Replaced fuel filter
What I haven't done:
--Replaced fuel pump
--Replaced fuel pressure regulator
Both of these are somewhat big jobs (I think I can handle both of them) and more expensive than what I've already done, so I'd like to get some input on where the fault could lie before picking one. Or, am I completely off base thinking it's fuel system?
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Will try to sum it up: Most of the time, the thing starts like a charm, first try. Every now and then, though, I'll turn the key and either a) nothing will happen or b) it will slowly crank and eventually start. If nothing happens, I have always been able to try again seconds later and everything works OK. Have been through several batteries. Current battery checks out OK, as does starter and alternator.
A short circuit, perhaps? If so, how would I check it out? Problem with taking it to a mechanic is, most of the time all is OK. No pattern as to when the trouble will occur (has yet to happen with vehicle in the shop, of course).
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What might be the problem with my 2001 Pathfinder 4WD. I notice steering wheel shaking/shimmy when driving but not all the time. The vehicle has 125K miles. Is it tie rods, struts, warped rotors, alignment? What it might be before going to a repair shop. Have had tires rotated and balanced.
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So my 2002 ford explorer with the 4.0 L V6, has been cranking along time before it starts. I thought i had this figured out already, i put a brand new fuel pump in it from the ford dealer. That seemed to work, but the problem came back.
Especially when it is cold, it cranks a lot longer than normal to start. and when it does start RMPS go way up briefly and come back down. Seems to only act up when its cold out, say 35 degrees and lower.
So the remote start wont work because it only cranks for a few seconds and then stops. it tries this three times and it gives up. i go out there to start it and cranks for 10 seconds it seems like, sometimes i have to feather the fuel pedal.
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is there a way to check fuel injector to make sure they are working.
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I have a 2002 Nissan Pathfinder and the Car Key FOB did a strange thing last week. Car is locked, keys are INSIDE the house and [TaTa] on its own, the FOB started to "beep" like when you click it to lock the car, made that kind of sound. Funny thing and wonder if this could be a coincidence, down the street, 8th of a mile away [or less] a house was being built. Could someone have had [maybe] an alarm system or two-way Nextel phone or SOMETHING [???] that could set it off? What can be done about it BESIDES enclosing the FOB in aluminum foil? We did that. Strangely, the beeping has stopped, which gives me the idea that it MAY have been what I suggested in the first place . . . something "signaling" it from wherever to go off!
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I have a 2002 Nissan Pathfinder and I love it. I bought it in 2006 and it has 156,000 miles on it. I am ready for something and here are the options. Buy another 2002 with low mileage for all the reasons you all know about that year and the 2003.Just great years. I have found a couple with mileage around 75,000 for around 8,500. My daughter wants my car and I am going to have a tune up done on it for her. Nothing wrong with it at all, Or get for me a 2011 Juke. I don't know why but I love that car. Been told I won't get much better gas mileage unless it stays in the eco mode. I can pay cash for the Pathfinder. Will have to finance the Juke. Makes me nervous that it's sort of new but I have heard from those who know that it's a good car.
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I recently had the the entire clutch and pressure plate replaced in my car and ever since there has been a sound like metal rattling in gears 2-4. It happens when I have low revs in those gears (particularly going up hills) and seems to go away when I am at high revs (~3k+). The mechanic I initially used says it's nothing but it sounds awful and is making me very nervous. The "Check Engine Soon" light has gone on as well.
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I have a 2002 Nissan Pathfinder 4x4 SE, and I have a strange noise emanating from the front suspension. It's essentially a creaking sound whenever going over speedbumps etc, that lasts only when crossing the bump in question. There is also a distinct ratcheting/popping sound when I more with the wheel at full lock. I've already replaced the front sway bar bushing, recently replaced the struts and springs, lower control arms, and have not noticed any shaking in the tie rods when I try to move them.
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I have a 2002 Nissan Pathfinder. A couple of months ago the check engine light came on and the temperature gauge quickly hit the roof. I was able to pull it into my mechanics shop before any damages was done. They looked at it and said I needed a new thermostat and housing. A few weeks later the temp gauge again went up to near the top. I live, work and shop all in a close radius so am not in my car for long periods of time but the gauge seems to measure high after about 20 minutes of driving in the city (no more than 45 mph) with the AC on.
I turned off my AC and took the car back. They then replaced the fan belt and clutch that engages the fan. Took the car home and two days later temperature was up again. Took it back and they said they had not realized my car had a second thermostat so they changed it (at no additional charge "since they didn't catch that up front") - they kept my car for 2 days. A couple of days later the scenario replayed itself. I took it back in they changed the sensor to the temp gauge (at no additional charge) tested it and still overheated so now they have now also flushed radioator 3 times for any debris. They have had my car for three additional days now.
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We have a 1995 Nissan Pathfinder (automatic) that is having trouble starting. We can't find a pattern to when it starts and when it doesn't start so we can't diagnose the problem. When it doesn't start, here's what happens: turning the key, you can hear one soft click. Then nothing. After several or many turns of the key (and the same single click), it finally "catches" and starts. Two weeks ago, the car would not start at all. Even the following day, it wouldn't start. The lights and radio did work. We tried a jump-start and it surprisingly started right up. We immediately replaced the battery, but the problems resumed. The following have been replaced since the problems began: starter, ignition switch, battery, transmission, and the horn for the alarm has been bypassed. Note: with the old battery back in, it does work.
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My 1994 Nissan Pathfinder will intermittently not start. When I get in the car and turn the ignition, the dash board lights will light up as usual, I can hear the starter solenoid click, but then nothing will happen. The power windows, stereo, headlights and air-conditioning will all work but the motor will not even churn. All I hear is the click. If I get a jump the car will start right up.
This has been going on for over a year. At first it would only happen every few months and I thought that by just disconnecting the positive from the battery and putting it back then it would start. It appeared to be doing so. When it started happening more frequently, I took it my mechanic and each time he would fuss with some wires charge me 20 bucks or not charge me at all and I would be on my way. It would be good for a week or so then once again not starting for me.
After the three times of my regular mechanic not fixing the problem and saying it was fixed I took it to a different mechanic. This man said it was my starter even though it will start with a breeze if you jump it. I went ahead and had him replace it. My car started a few more times but the next day the problem was back. After having gone to two mechanics and them misdiagnosing and me paying for service I didn't need, I borrowed a volt meter and the battery test at 11.5 volts. Some buddies said, that perhaps my battery being 14 years old was putting out enough power to power the cars electronics but not enough to turn the starter over. So I bought a brand new battery. I got four starts off of it before I experienced the problem again.
Another friend thought it might be the alternator not fully charging the battery. I believe we tested it at 12 volts but he said it should be more. Anyway, he and I pulled the alternator took it to be tested and it's fine. While we were removing it though we discovered the belt on the alternator was a little loose so maybe it wasn't charging fully. Anyway, we put it all back together and the car started five or six times, while my more knowledgeable buddy was with me. The next day of course, no start.
I probably did a bunch of stuff I didn't have to do in trying to diagnose this problem but at least I learned a lot more about my car. Anyway, ye wise car sages, What do you think is wrong with my old car, which for the most part has treated me well for all these years? Ignition? a short somewhere? If it's the ignition perhaps you can explain to me why the vehicle will start with a jump.
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I have a a 2003 or 2004 Nissan Pathfinder (can't remember which at the moment). For the past few months, it's been having the same problem. One morning, I'll go out to start the car and the radio will have stopped working, but everything else is fine. A few days later, however, the car won't start in the morning. I'll jump it off, and the car and radio will be fine again for a few weeks. This doesn't last for long though.
Eventually, the radio will go out, and a few days later the car won't start again. I took it to my local mechanic and they tested the alternator/battery/ starter and said they were all fine, and that the battery cables just needed to be cleaned. After the cleanup, the car and radio worked fine for a few weeks...but sure enough, a few days ago, the radio went out. This morning I had to jump my car off again. What the real problem is? I'm taking it to the shop again today, but what else it could be...
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When cold engine starts on the first attemp 80% of the time, when warm its about 60-70%. Sometimes it take 2-3 attemps to start. But on the second to last attemp the engine will fire very little and then knock off.
So far I replaced the distributor, spark plugs and wires, boost sensor?, fuel pressure regulator, and checked the injector ohms and fuel pressure at the engine with the old pump. After replacing the fuel filter it started fine for a few days, after replacing the fuel pump it started fine for a week. Thus making me believe it's a fuel issue. So I added check valves to the fuel line at the engine, both the supply and return lines. And still few days later it's back.
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1989 Nissan pathfinder. 6cylinder - VG30i - Manual trans
Engine was misfiring (running okay but putt, putt, putting) so I pulled be plugs to check for signs. Other than wear and wide gap the plugs looked okay, but I installed new plugs as they're cheap and I was already pulling them. I replaced them one at a time so didn't mix up the wiring. I went to restart the engine and now it turns over and starts but then immediately dies. If I really slam on the pedal I can get it to rev up a couple times, but it really wants to completely die right away. It'll start but won't run
- I took the battery lead (neg) off for a few days - maybe that reset something?
- I had a very empty gas tank - so low that I thought it might be out of fuel. I put two gallons in just to make sure. Because I can slam on the gas and get it to revving I'm not sure being out of gas is the issue.
- I removed the distributor cap to check for wear but reinstalled (picture attached).
- I sprayed some Mass airflow sensor cleaner into the throttle body to clean up, the throttle body valve blade was pretty clean.
- I'm doing this test without the air filter in. The old one was so dirty I removed it and didn't bother putting it back on. Going to buy a new one today.
- It cannot pass smog due to this misfire (obviously not detonating fuel so it's polluting)
- The engine was start up readily before I started tinkering. It would seem strange that adding new plugs
- I didn't gap the plugs.
Next steps :
- Look for any wires knocked loose or hoses disconnected.
- Pull the error codes (check engine light is on cuz, it's not running)
- Check Vacuum and diagram and hoses.
- Check ignition system wires.
- Check fuel pressure.
- Check Cylinder Compression.
Ultimately I'm trying to tune it up (and fix misfire) anyway, not just change the plugs, so doing more diagnosis is okay. It's also not my primary car. I haven't worked on cars in a while so I'm a little rusty and also needing to get necessary tools to complete the tasks. But it's fun I hope I can get this car running well again soon.
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Replaced battery, replaced fuse line holder by battery, checked starter w/ jumper wires, most smaller ignition related fuses are fine.Can't read the schematic for the relay box, so I didn't check that. online manufacturer manual has nothing on it. how do I test those?
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I have an 06 Pathfinder LE that was running fine earlier. got to a location and when i went to drive home it was a tough start, rough idle and lack of power. got an 0302 code so i changed out the plugs and swapped the # 2 coil for # 4. once started still ran rough as described. read code again after clearing and code still ran 0302, didn't follow coil. is the #2 coil on drivers side as i have read?
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In a cold weather also noticed the EV mode doesn't stay on for a long time even with a 90% full battery and fully warmed up. The engine starts to kick in randomly.
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I have a 2002 v8 lse with 92000. When i go to start it after it has been sitting for 20 minutes or more it cranks for a long tome before starting. When it does start it idles fine but has a strong fuel smell. There are no codes and no problems once it starts. However it starts up right away in cold weather. It seems like a flooding issue. The fuel pressure is within range but it does seem to bleed off quicker than most cars i work on when the engine is no longer running..
Unfortunately I don't have the specs on on fuel pressure runoff. I suspect the fuel pressure sensor/regulator. I don't believe it would be an injector due to the fact it never runs rough or misses once started and if it was the pump it wouldn't give off a fuel smell in the exhaust once started.
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I recently purchased a 2002 camry 2.4l 198k miles from a friend. His mechanic said engine was on it's way out so the next day after work the car didn't turn on so he thought his mechanic was right. So he told me about it and said it needed a new engine so me being a guy that likes to purchase broken down things I got it. I had it towed home and was going to mess with it on my free time.
So today I got under the hood and first thing I did was spray starting fluid in the intake. It turned on and was running good then shut off. First thing I'm thinking is fuel pump. When I disconnected the fuel line to the fuel rail and primed it it had fuel gushing out.
So now I want to check if the fuel pressure is right. I know the 5th generation camrys have a different fuel system that's kinda new to me. ( I know I'm out dated, I mess with diesels and older Hondas) so my question is what steps or processes of elimination steps should I take to keep this car running? How do I test the fuel pressure system on this car? Oh and before I purchased the car he said he "super filled up" the tank.
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I have a 2002 Ford Windstar that only in the fall and winter it has a longer crank time of at least 10 seconds. In the summer it starts as it should within 3-4 seconds. I did notice that the times it did start normally in the colder air is when I turned the key on and listened to the fuel pump prime the system. All other times it doesn't do that and that's when I get the long crank time. Once it is started it runs as normal. Am I looking at a possible fuel filter or pump? I am due to replace the filter as the van has 83,000 miles on it. If this is the possible culprit, is this something that is easily replaced at home?
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