Nissan - Murano :: Front Two Windows Will Lower Randomly When Parked And Unattended
Nov 8, 2011
Occasionally and randomly, my front two windows will lower themselves. Most of the time... all the way. But sometimes only half way. Both windows lower at the same time to the same degree. This happens only when parked and unattended, not when the engine is running or someone is in the car. It has happened in parking lots (outside) and also in my own locked garage with no one around. Sometimes the car is locked and sometimes (in my garage) it is unlocked. My Nissan dealer has no idea what is causing this nor how to correct it.
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I have a 2006 Nissan Murano with 122,000 miles on it. It's been a good car, but recently it has had a few episodes of losing power. Here's an example:
I had been driving the car here and there all day, and in the afternoon I swung by my mom's house to pick her up. When she got in the car (I had just been idling while waiting), I went to make a U-turn and the car outright died. I started it right back up and was able to drive to the end of the block before it lost power. It didn't die this time -- the engine was still on -- but all my electrical components went out -- radio, dashboard lights, AC -- and I couldn't get it to go more than 20 mph. That was flooring it. It wasn't giving me a high-pitched whine, just a low hum like it was trying really hard to go but couldn't. I turned it around and barely made it back up the hill to my mom's to park it. It just had no get-up-and-go. An hour or so later my dad came home and checked it out and of course it was fine. Started right up, drove fine.
This has happened twice since, both times I was driving on the freeway when I felt the loss of get-up-and-go and saw the electrical components go out. These times it only lasted maybe 10 seconds, after which it just came back to life in the middle of driving and drove fine the rest of the day.
It makes me think there must be some sort of loose connection somewhere? I'm frustrated by the issue because it's not repeatable. So when I took it to my mechanic, they said they couldn't find anything wrong. They hooked it up to a code reader and nothing came up, and they drove it around and around and it was fine. The idea that it could maybe strand me on the side of the road (I drive my kids around all day) scares me, so I've swapped cars with my husband for the time being. But I want my Murano back!
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I just had front and back brakes replaced and there is noise coming from front (I think it's the front)? Any way my brother says its the wheel bearings and that my mechanic should have "caught" that they were bad. I've gone to mechanic for almost 10 years and trust him. Never had wheel bearing problems before so not sure what to think. And if it is wheel bearing can u ballpark cost to fix in Illinois ?
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We just bought a used 2007 Mazda CX-7 in Dec 2010. Three times that I've parked the car, only me, no witnesses, and used the remote lock & alarm set, I've come back to car after shopping to find the two front windows down. The first time I thought I must have left them down but it's happened two more times, twice when it's been at night and cold so that I would not be driving with windows down.
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I have a 2004 Nissan Pathfinder and the front windows keep going down when the engine is off. It first happened two days ago and then last night as I removed the key from the ignition I would hear clicks like the turn signal and then the windows would just go down. I had to restart the car to roll back up. This happened for almost an hour until I could get the battery disconnected. I originally thought it was the keychain because it wasn't working and then the lights would flash and then windows would go down. We've had alot of rain in south Florida. Could this be the problem? If its electrical, is this an expensive problem?
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So after my husband went and got an oil change, and after the mechanic said there was nothing wrong with the car "good choice on the vehicle", he drives off, parks, comes out, and starts the car, only to make it 2 blocks. Now the vehicle is stranded on the side of the street. What the hell happened?!
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My oil light came on today while I was driving. I made it to work but the light didn't stay on it flashed and went back off but the car took a while when I stepped on the gas it stalled then took off. Does it means I need an oil change or are there bigger problems.? Can I drive the car home?
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I have a 2007 Nissan murano so and the past 2 days while in traffic in my way home his happens: All the lights go on (oil, engine, brake, ect). Cannot push gas or brake and steering wheel is very tight. I was able to shut the car off and turn it back on within a minute the engine turned and I was back as normal- now the service engine light is on. I recently had an oil change and they reconnect a loose cable to my battery. I was able to drive to work this morning but again, the service light is on now.
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I have a 2007 Nissan Murano. When I first get into my car after it is sitting the smell of garbage is overwhelming! Once I start to drive it, the smell begins to disappear. The longer the car is sitting turned off the stronger the smell when I get into it. We have searched the vehicle inside and out for signs of food, although the car is extremely clean. We have also searched for reminants of a dead animal as well as moisture but have found nothing. Where to look next?
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2004 nissan murano SE.. Today my vehicle took a while to start , then the CEL came on. The battery is fine had the output levels checked, we are very weary of mechanics in the area..
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Recently purchased 2012 Nissan Murano 6 cylinder. FWD. Upon acceleration, I hear what sounds like the car is backfiring. Does not happen all the time but seems prevalent upon quick start. The accelerator pedal is very sensitive, and I need to consciously think about light pressure on the pedal. Of course, taking it to the dealership didn't work, because I could not recreate the problem. It's still happening.
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Ok to begin I took my Nissan Murano in because I was barely able to reach 20 MPH. No power whatsoever. Devouring oil. Was suppose to take 3-4 days he said. Ended up taking over 1 1/2. Which I didn't mind as long as the car was fixed!Okay I got it back the very first thing I noticed was steering was SO hard to turn. He said it should loosen up in a couple days. It didn't. Took it back let him have it for hours. Didn't get fixed.He said it may need a new power steering pump (funny, didn't need one BEFORE)
2nd thing I noticed.. The steering was off to the left. He said that it he could fix that. When I got it back at first it was on straight then it just started turning about one day to the left then upside down then back to the top.Ok no problem. Took it back he said it was something to do with the steering column not being pushed in well so he bolted it or something. Ok got it back and the steering is still off to the left a bit and now it pulls to the left.Tell him and so he re does the "bolting" fix.
Steering still really hard to turn so he tells me I have to pay for a new rack and pinion!!!! That is ISN'T the steering pump.And on top of that NOW my horn, airbag light is flashing, sound control panel on the steering wheel and cruise control ALL isn't working. So he said I HAVE to pay for something to get it fixed.
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I have a 2005 Murano, 96K.
In Aug 2011, I had the rear disc brakes/rotors replaced. Front ones were replaced in Feb of this year.
For the past month, whenever I release the brake, I hear squealing (no sound when I press the brake to stop). Last about 5 secs, or until I hit about 15-20 MPH. Seems to happen only after the brakes heat up. I've tried to "Google" the answer, but the answers are mostly for drum brakes.
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I have started hearing faint thumping noise in my Murano, coming from the front most likely.It sounds as if I have a bold spot on a tire and is very faint. I can also feel it faintly through the steering wheel.It's not a ticking or hard knocking noise. Also, the noise is variable depending on the speed AND the duration of noise is also speed dependent (going slow, the thump is drawn out. Going faster, the thump duration is shorter.)Here's what I have done so far but the noise is still there.
-Rotated both front tires to rear
-Inspected the tires while rotating and saw nothing out of ordinary
-Checked the pressure and everything's good.
-All lug nuts torqued to spec
-Visual inspection of brake rotors and calipers seems fine
The car has 34k miles on it and the tires are in good condition although there's about 1/8 - 3/16" usable tread left. What could this be?
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At first it began to slow start. Just some coughing before it would start for sure. Sometimes it would start right away, sometimes struggle.
I took it to Advance Auto Parts to have the battery tested and they said the battery was fine.
A day later the car would not crank at all and stranded me at the grocery store. The starter began to fire and then it would stop. After 4-5 tries it would not try to turn over at all.
My friend came and tried to jump me and the care started right up!
When I got home, the car was able to start on it’s own the couple times I tried. I risked going back to Advance to have them test out the battery again, as well as the test of the alternator and starter. Everything again tested fine, as far as they could tell.
While there the car again failed to crank and they heard the noise and immediately felt that the starter was the culprit. I ordered one just to be safe as it took some time to get here. (Plus a starter is like 2 bolts and a wire, what could go wrong?) >.>
I got a jump and got home. I did A LOT of reading, which led me to believe that perhaps it WAS the battery after all.
Last night I began preparations to replace the starter and check for corrosion or a bad cable. How difficult is that starter is to get to! I had to remove the ECM as part of the process.
Today I got the starter as well as a new battery.
First thing I tried was just replacing the batter. No luck, and the starter did not even engage this time. I tried tapping it with a hammer to see if that worked. No luck.
It was at that point I realized I had not connected all the ECM cables securely. I disconnected the battery, reconnected the ECM fully and still had no luck.
Now when I press the ignition button there is a slight whir, and the gauges come up, but there is no other activity.
Is this still a starter problem?Did I screw up the ECM somehow?Is there a short or fuse issue (I have tried to check with my limited knowledge)
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.My Nissan Murano, 2003 is acting up after a ton of diagnostics and repair . We replaced thermostat, flushed heat core, replaced coolant pipe which had rusted and leaked out fluid, and ran air bubbles out forever, it seemed. The heater does not work now on lower rpm's and the car was gurgling the other day when i stopped at mailbox. I have been driving it for a few weeks since we had it repaired.When i pulled in into garage, it was overflowing at reservoir for coolant. We have not driven it and our mechanic is perplexed. He ruled out head gasket problems with chemical test and another diagnostic test. . . .he is perplexed. He added coolant and what else. . .. .that is all i can think of . should we get it towed to dealer which is 100 miles away? we've already spent 1500 or so with this and it seems we could be back at square one. Our mechanic is very honest, and he does think it could be in the engine, like a warped plastic piece. . . i don't know what he said exactly, but he's just guessing.We have 128k on this engine.
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When i step on the gas there's a rattling noise in the engine like it's starving for gas but when i put super unleaded in it goes away.
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I have a Nissan Murano 2004 SL AWD.I got the car last year and since I got the car, my gas pedal was not working properly during certain condition. You would think my car is haunted, believe me!
The main problem is: after driving for 30 minutes, when I come to a complete stop, my gas pedal does not respond directly. I have to press the gas pedal all the way and release it for the car to start driving.The more I do this process after the problem occurs, the more time the gas pedal will respond after I completely floor it. For example, after 15 minutes of such problem occurring, I need about 2.5 seconds for the gas pedal to work after flooring it. After 30 min of the problem occurring, I need about 3 sec. to 3.5 sec. and on a hill, the respond time takes even longer!
Now here is the funny part...I have notice that whenever it's hot outside, the problem with my gas pedal does not occur after 30 minutes but it will occur after less time, maybe after 15 to 20 minutes of driving.When it's colder like during the winter the problem will occur after 40 minutes of driving.
Here is another funny thing. When my gas pedal start acting up, if I go to park my car and turn my engine off for about... 5 to 10 minutes, less or more, the gas pedal starts working again for the next 10 to 15 minutes before acting up again.
I really want to fix it.It's not bothering me sometimes but today I was at a red light on a hill and my car just did not accelerate at all for about 3 seconds while my car was sliding down and people beeping at me. It's really getting me irritated!
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Have a 2004 Nissan Murano with 149K miles. Service engine light came on about 2 months ago and the dealership said the catalytic converter needs to be replaced...for $1200 parts/labor. Car starts fine but runs very rough and I get a thumping noise from under car for the first 10-15 miles. Also noticed a drop off in MPG from normal 20 to about 17.5. I'm hoping to keep this car a while, but need assurance the Cat converter is really the problem. Saw several similar posts make reference to the O2 sensor. How can I be sure what's needed to fix this?
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I have a 2009 Nissan Murano. I have owned the car for two years now and have been plagued by this issue since I have aquired the car. When I am driving along, anytime I encounter an uneven part of the road at 40-50mph I feel a clunking/knocking in the steering wheel and the gas pedal. This knocking is felt even if the road is smooth. Anytime the front end is responding to the road ( I.E. sunken catch basin) I feel this knock/clunking. This issue gets much worse in cold weather and is much better when it warms up. Since finding this issue, I have had the tires rotated, balanced, I have had a 4 wheel alignment done as well. I have also had the shocks and bushings checked from the dealer. I drive almost 100 miles a day for work and this has me at my wits end with this car.
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I stopped at traffic light and my car went off and won't start again. I had it towed home, it will jump start and keep on running as long as the jump start pack stays connected. As soon as i disconnect the jumpstarter it shuts off. There are no warning lights on the dash while engine is running. My guess is alternator is bad and car ran on battery till battery was discharged and the it stopped on the road. Now if this was the case shouldn't there be a battery and/or break warning light on the dash while car is running on battery?
Also if it were a battery problem then the car should run on power from the alternator once it's jump started right? In which case there should be a battery warning light on the dash right? I know the dash lights aren't bad because when i turn the key to the on position all the lights show up, including the battery light. I will like to take out the alternator and bring it the the shop for testing but before doing this I'll like some input since I'm not very convinced it's the alternator because there's no battery signal on the dash while engine is running on battery.
Car is: 2004 Nissan Murano AWD CVT trans106K Miles
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