Nissan - Misfire :: 2011 Rogue Lurching On Highway Usually Around 50 - 60 Mph
Feb 26, 2015
I have a 2011 Nissan Rogue that has lurched (or misfired?) about a handful of times. It only does it at highway speeds shortly after I've merged onto the highway, usually around 50-60mph. There is a loud thunk and it feels, for about a split second, that the car has stalled out. No warning lights come on, RPMs don't rev, and car resumes driving just fine after and hasn't yet repeated it on the same drive. It is very cold where we are, but the highway is at least 5-10mins from my house, so car usually has warmed up by the time we've gotten there. I've taken it in twice now to be looked at and neither times has it done this on their test drive. The shop yesterday didn't see any diagnostic codes either, so they didn't even know where to begin looking at possible issues...only suggestion was that I bring it in again after it happens again...I know next to nothing about cars, but it surprises me that they won't even check various possible issues to see if anything is out of whack, loose, etc...
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My wife just called on her way to work in the middle of another winter storm and stated that the AWD light on our Nissan Rogue will illuminate and then go off. For those unfamiliar with the vehicle while stopped or in park you just push a button and the AWD system is engaged (a light on the switch goes on to indicate it is on). Unfortunately, the light or AWD goes out randomly. I contacted our local Nissan garage and have an appointment next week. They say the light/AWD should stay on.
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i buy a used car from a friend. when I push the pedal to accelerate from still(RPM 1000-2000), i can hear clearly there is a noise from front and the bottom of the car (same source). It is a noise obviously generated by metal clashing with each other. But such noise doesn't appear when the car hit big holes on roads or when the RPM is higher than 2000RPM. the car goes smoothly and quietly on highway, but the noise worries me.
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For the last few months while I'm driving on the highway my car will misfire and the check engine light comes on. Every time is the same two codes for crankshaft and camshaft sensor failure. I've replaced the easier one to get to but it still happens. A friend suggested to clean my spark plugs...
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My husband was driving our 2013 nissan rogue and the engine light came on. Shortly afterwards the car began to smoke and stopped working. Oil is leaking out of the car and the oil pan needs to be replaced (looks like he hit something because the oil pan has a dent in it). Also, the engine rattles when turned on. They said that I might need a new engine which is over 4000 dollars. They said I can replace the oil pan and get an oil change to see if that works. Is it likely that my engine is dead? He said it could just be rattling because of the lack of oil but he won't know until we replace the oil and oil pan.
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Three times over a period of six weeks my 09Nissan Rogue has turned off during high speed driving. Shuts right down with no warning or sputtering. Last time was on Mass Pike with no break down lane and cars flying all around at 75MPH - scary as all.... I had to roll over to right lane, park and restart, which it wouldnt do right away- a number of attempts and it started up and I drove away.
Brought right to dealer- and at dealer last few days and they cant pinpoint problem- have done numerous test drives. They have checked computer and it indicates no issues. They have called Nissan and reported that they dont have a case of a similar issue. 70, 000 miles, just completely serviced, plenty of gas, newer battery in electronic keyfob- IT's a mystery! I am scared to drive the car.
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We bought a used 2009 Nissan Rogue about a year ago. According to the previous owner, all services were done at the local Nissan dealer.
About 4000 km after we bought it, my wife noticed that it was shuddering after she applied the brakes. So I took it to the dealer... and they said that the front calipers were seized and needed to be replaced. It only had 82,000 km or so (51,000 miles) on it then. The previous owners paid for the repair, which included new calipers, pads and rotors.
Fast forward to yesterday, and I was told by the independent garage that we take all of our vehicles to that one of the rear calipers had seized and needed to be replaced. The vehicle only has 104,000 km on it (about 65,000 miles). Again, the caliper had to be replaced, along with all pads and rotors on the rear end. When I commented to him that we've replaced 3 out of 4 calipers, he said that the other rear caliper looked like it had been replaced too.
My question to the group is - should calipers that have been serviced properly seize like that? I'm of the opinion that they shouldn't if they're being checked regularly and serviced properly.
Am I correct? Or not? I've owned a lot of cars in my lifetime, and this is the first time I've had seized calipers on any of them.
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2010 Nissan rogue (42,500 miles) When the a/c is on and I'm stopped in traffic, with my foot on the brake the car shudders. There are times I feel like it will stall. I've had it to the dealer several times and they've told me the compressor puts a lot of strain on the engine. I have been in many other vehicles small and large and do not notice this.
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I have a 2009 nissan rogue that when driven for 30 minutes or more with the ac on leaves my clothing smelling like exhaust (faint smell). I have had the dealership look at the car and they cannot find anything. We have replaced the interior cabin air filter and I still find the smell. this is not something that I notice while driving until I have been in the car for 30 or so minutes. My wife also notices the smell in her clothes after driving and now won't drive the Nissan. We are running the car with maximum AC turned on with the air recirculation button on as well. SO, theoretically, no outside air should be getting in but it still seems like our clothes smell like we have been in a traffic jam with the windows down after 30 minutes of driving.
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So my car stereo (center console) had been cutting in and out at random times, spoke to a tech from the garage and it seems like a lose connection is really really unlikely, that most likely the stereo is just on its way out.
So left with the option of replacing it. Is this a big task to replace/not worth it and simply go without a stereo?
It's a Nissan Rogue 2010,.
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My 2010 Nissan Rogue was awesome until the clicks, squeaks, rattles, etc popped up after the first year. I've been slowly figuring them out, but one remaining problem is the squeaking plastic door panels. If I lean my arm on it or or leg against it, it creaks in many places. Going over bumps it'll do it on it's own. Is there anything I can do to remedy this? It is out of warranty as I have about 40K on it and they said that wouldn't qualify anyhow when it was under warranty as it was "cosmetic".
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My 2010 SL rogue's brakes seem to be extremely spongy/floaty. When stopping I need to push the brakes pedal all the way down before it'll come to a complete stop. It feels like I'm pushing air out. Just got her back from bthe repair shop, and had been driving a rent a car(2015 Ford focus) and the difference between the braking is night/day.
Checked the brakes fluid and its just a hair under max line. Was under the impression that the break pads were replaced a year ago. Best obvious answer I can figure out(google) is possibly air in the brake lines?
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Two years ago a purchased a 2011 Nissan Frontier mid-sized pick-up, V-6, A/T, 4WD, long-bed (6’), crew cab four door. I drove it for a little over a year and it was all good, then I put an 800 lb. pop-up cab-over camper on it. When folded down, the top of the camper is about one foot above the top of the truck cab, with about a four inch space between the bottom of the cab-over and the top of the cab, and with the cab-over extending over the back two-thirds of the cab, so the whole thing creates quite a bit of wind resistance.
After installing the camper, I noticed a front-to-back jerking motion when driving the truck at highway speeds, sort of like when topping a steep hill and beginning to descend, some vehicles will lurch front-to-back until the drive train synchs up. It was cyclic – jerk 7 or 8 times, smooth out, then do it again. It wasn’t bad enough to cause vehicle control issues. I took it to the dealer and the initial diagnosis was that the automatic trans. was going in and out of lock-up. Then I drove the service manager around in it with his laptop scope plugged in to the engine, and he said he couldn’t see anything wrong with the drive train. He suggested running the rear tires at maximum pressure of 44 lbs., which I tried but which didn’t work.
I then had airbags installed to beef up the rear suspension, but that didn’t work. Finally I built a fairing/wind deflector and installed it on top of the cab, sloping at a 45 degree angle from the trailing edge of the windshield to the leading edge of the top of the camper. That didn’t work either, which surprised me because I had first experimented with the concept by duct-taping a sheet of cardboard in the same position as the fairing would ultimately be installed, and that seemed to work. The same jerking sensation can be felt when overdrive is engaged and when it is locked out, and it also occurs at slower speeds when decelerating. Is there anything I can do to smooth out the ride?
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I have a 2008 Nissan Rogue and I bought it used and it has worked great until recently. The issue I have is after 1-2 hours of driving at a consistent speed of 70 MPH it will stop accelerating past 2.5-3 RPMs(x1000). When it started happening, I was able to pull over, turn the car off for 10-15 minutes, and it won't happen again until my next trip.
I can't seem to recreate the issue except after going on a road trip. It's kind of scary when trying to go up hills and when I slow down when I come into smaller towns and get to a stoplight, I stop, wait until the light changes, and when I try and accelerate again it's jumpy and doesn't respond for 3-5 seconds which can be annoying to the person behind me.
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I have a 2008 Nissan Rogue that is experiencing a shifter problem. The problem is that periodically the shifter will not go from the "park" position to the "drive" position after the car is started and your foot is on the brake. I have been able to drive the car by inserting a small screwdriver into the slot on the gear shift assembly to depress the switch that allows you to override the mechanism but as you can imagine that is tedious and what do you do if suddenly the screwdriver is lost - you go nowhere and you can't even get to store to buy another one because the car won't move!
I have had the car into the dealer twice now and they have been unable to correctly diagnose the shifter problem. They have said that it could be a failed solenoid that senses the brake pedal being depressed but so far that has checked out fine. They also thought that it may be a brake sensor and they asked me to keep an eye on the brake lights to see if they come on when the brake pedal is depressed and the lights do come on so they believe that is not an issue. They "repositioned" the shift assembly in the car center console thinking that it may be an improper position and they tightened it down into place but that has not corrected the problem either. They now tell me that the entire shift assembly needs to be replaced at a cost of $670.00 and I find that hard to believe let alone pay for!
The car has about 70,000 mile on it and it was recently in an accident that did deploy some side airbags and I am wondering too if the accident may have damaged the assembly in some way that caused the malfunction where the repairs may be covered by my insurance company. This has only started after the accident repairs were made and we never had a problem like this prior to that event.
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I have an 86 Nissan pickup with a z24 motor in it, yes the weird 4 cyl. With 8 plugs. It has been lurching when I let off the throttle or sometimes when I accelerate. Its been doing it for a year and won't do it all the time it is intermittent but does it more then it doesn't.
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My 1994 Aerostar, with 100,000 miles on it, started lurching at highway speeds. Weeks before this, the airbag light began blinking. The transmission man said it felt like it was shifting into overdrive, then out, then into overdrive, then out, etc.,etc. About this time, the cruise control quit being reliable. Dealership said codes didn't show a problem, "I must be mistaken". Then they said it sounded like a fuel filter.
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My wife's 03 Passat w/ 1.8t is bucking and lurching throwing a P0301 (Cyl 1 misfire) code. We have about 58k on the engine and had the dealer do the 40k service 2 years ago.
So far I replaced cyl 1 spark plug, swapped and then replace coil pack with new. My choices for parts were limited on a Friday night and these are el cheapo Autozone parts. Still missing and throwing DTC, I don't really have access to Vag-Com anymore (just OBD reader at parts store) and I don't have a Bentley's either (I know there's some eye rolling going on now).
How to troubleshoot the cause so I can make a decision to take to mechanic or do a few more parts swaps between now and Monday. I've got tools and a multi-meter. I used to have Vag-Com but it isn't supported on my new laptop (Vista), I tried the USB extension cord on my desktop but it is hit and miss.
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We purchased a CPO 2011 Mercury Mariner Premium in October 2013. The first time this incident occurred was when we had the car about 2 hours. What happens is after driving for a while at a high-rate (usually about 60mph or higher), I gradually slow down as I get off of the freeway and start heading towards our house. Once I get into the subdivision, as I am coaxing, the car will lurch when it is at about 20mph. This also happens if I am on the toll road and then slow down to pay the toll then somewhere around there or when I stop for my turn, it will lurch. I took the car back to the dealer within the first week and the mechanic and I drove the car for a while and of course, it didn't happen. He said there was no way for him to know what was happening unless it happened when he was in the car. I was actually put off because I asked if we should keep driving or take it back to the shop and he said "well, you know I don't get paid for test drives".
Anyway, they checked to see if there was an update on a module or something? He said there was (again, said he didn't know if it was related to what I was experiencing). It is still happening. We previously had a 2009 Ford Escape and got pretty good gas mileage. That car was totaled (fortunately no one was injured...my newest teen driver lol), and we had hoped to get as good gas mileage with this Mariner but no. Also, in December (2 months after we got the car) the "check engine" light came one. I scheduled it for service for the following Monday (it was Friday) and later that day, the car kept dying. We had to have it towed in. They repaired that problem and we hoped that it would solve this other issue, but it did not.
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have a 1997 nissan pickup 2.4 liter engine check engine light came on code say number 2 cylinder misfiring put in shop. they say that they can't get to misfire.truck run great.just that light keep coming on with code (p o 302)
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Our Pathfinder shakes side to side around 60mph and quits after 65 or 70 (We live in New Mexico and commute through Texas where speeds are much higher than back East). We have changed shocks, struts & mounts, tires, and alignments. Most of these have been changed multiple times over the years, especially tires.
We have been driving this way since May of 2005 (129,916 miles). We have TRIED to get it fixed. We have had it in shops all across the country (we travel a bit). We talk it up to people we meet who know cars. We have taken it to Nissan, with no results. NO ONE has solved the problem and we are out lots of money.
We are now at 205,000 miles. I would really like to get this fixed! We cannot afford to just buy a new car. Mechanics across the country have not solved this issue!
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