Nissan - Maxima :: Random Stalling When Driving At About 35 Mph
Dec 2, 2011
Recently while driving in good weather, no rain, about 35 mph my 2003 Nissan Maxima stalled. It failed to restart on the first try, but on the second, started right up without trouble and has been fine since. I took it to a garage where they could find no obvious problem. They said I might have 3 things done to potentially address the issue:
1) replace the air filter
2) do an "idle relearn procedure"
3) flush the fuel induction system.
Whether these would be a good idea, or whether I should just ignore the problem?
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My car has been stalling out while at stop lights and while driving as well as spuddering and hesitating . i brought it in to the shop twice and both times they said it ran fine . they ran the code and gave me a new oxygen sensor and it still stalled. i brought it to autozone today and they ran the code and camshaft position sensor came up. so i put a new one in and it still is stalling and hesitating to drive. also smells really bad when it kick in. What could be wrong . short circuit or wiring trouble maybe? fuel pump ? crankshaft? electrical problem? spark plugs? cant get a straight answer.
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My car has suddenly started stalling a lot. I can get it to start right up if I put the clutch to the floor and it will idle fine until I start coming up of the clutch even while it in neutral. At times it will idle in neutral then start to idle rough and stall. I can drive it in reverse but can't drive it forward except in first if i keep the clutch at a certain point and not release it all the way. However when I try other gears sometimes it's like it does't want to go stalls. What it might be?
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I have a 1998 Maxima with 57K miles on it. I just bought it about a month ago. Anyway, a week ago I noticed It felt very "choppy" when I shifted into Drive or Reverse. It felt like it was going to stall but it never did. The Service Engine Soon light has been on for about 3 weeks but now, when I go up hills especially, that light blinks. I can still drive it but I shift into Neutral at stoplights to avoid hearing the rough idle while in Drive. Went to Pep Boys yesterday - they had the car for about an hour and then informed me that they would need to keep the car for a full day because of the "complex issues involved" - especially concerning the codes. The codes they read were:
p0300 random misfire
p0325 knock sensor
p0440 evap emission
My car passed smog test abut 3 months ago. I can drive it OK it just is very choppy and so there's not a lot of power, especially going up hills.
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My 2000 Maxima manual, only in hot wether after driving for 30-40 min. revolutions start rising by itself and can go very high, becomes impossible to drive,have to shot off the car. I have this problem for 10 years and dealer is saying that they never heard anything like that.
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1999 Nissan Maxima. My AC works great until I take a trip. About an hour into the trip the AC slowly stops cooling. I turn the fan onto high to unthaw, this works a little but it is still very warm. If I slow down to about 45 going through a town the cooling will improve until I return to highway speed. My mechanic has checked the freon, changed the sensor two times. When it has stopped cooling I have checked under the hood and the AC is still clicked in, as if the AC does not click off when it is cool enough and freezes. My mechanic has come to the conclusion that there may be something in the computer.
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I have Nissan Maxima 1996, everything is good as far as I know until recently it started stopping shutting off on the road, sometimes when am going at high speed it gradually decreases speed and come to stop.
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When the car is cold it runs fine. After driving for 10-15 minutes the transmission slips, while driving the engine revs and then engages again.I have only noticed the disengaging/engaging as speeds less than 40 MPH. When the car is in neutral and placed into drive it may take several seconds to engage which happens about 60% of the time. Could this be a sensor failure or time for a new transmission?
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Okay, I was driving down the freeway and suddenly my temperature gauge zoomed to Hot and steam rose out of the car. I stopped the car and let it cool down, then drove the 5 miles very slowly to the mechanic-stopping twice to let it cool completely.
I got it to the mechanic and a huge crack appeared across the top of the radiator when the car was on. New radiator time-gotcha. She has 235K miles on her and before this ran like she was brand new.
Now not a couple days later, I started noticing that transmission fluid was leaking about 1/2 cup of fluid a day dripping down from the axle. Can I use a stop leak for transmissions/transaxle? Would it fix the issue temporarily...
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Our santa fe 2008 diesel randomly stalls. Most of the time the stall happens after at least 15mins of driving but I am not sure if its just a coincidence. It only happens when the car is stopped. When it happens, i put the car in park, turn off AC, then turn the car back on. It starts right up but is a bit rumbling like it will stall again. When i press the accelerator there is no response.
If I turn on the AC or turn the wheels, it dies. If i put it in drive or reverse it also dies. That happens around 3-5 times, then after that, everything is good again. Accelerator responds normally, car doesn't stall. Its driving me crazy! Whats worse is sometimes it doesn't occur for 1month! Then all of a sudden it stalls again. Bought the car 2nd hand and since january it died around 8-10 times.
I brought it to a reputable mechanic and they checked the fuel system. Replaced the fuel filter, fuel sensor. They even tried a different pump and sanction valve and it still didn't fix it. They kinda concluded that its not in the fuel system already, but they are at a loss. Its very hard to trigger since we don't know what really causes the stalling. All we know is that it only occurred when the car is stopped.
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Had the following problems with my 2009 Santa Fe: Audio system would randomly reset when playing MP3 from USB drive, Headlights would dim/flicker when bakes depressed, LED lights on dash would flicker, random stalling while driving. Finally just died and would not start. The Hazard lights would not work only a bit of buzzing from the relay. Checked Battery, connectors, etc. All looked good. Measured voltage at fusebox (inside) and found it dropped from 12v to 4v when I put the hazard switch on. Showed there was a connection problem of some kind.
Finally used a jumper cable from the battery negative terminal to an ground point inside the cabin. Bingo that fixed all the problems, car started, lights were good, hazards worked. As a permanent fix I ran a wire from where the negative terminal of the battery connects to the frame, then drilled a hole in the firewall and ran the wire into the cabin. Connected the wire to a ground point in the cabin. Used a heavy gauge stranded wire. you can try this out with lamp cord as a temporary fix, but I'd use something heavier for a permanent fix. All problems have gone. No flickering, no stalling... This may be a problem on other models from what I've read in some forums (unexplained stalling - check the grounding in the cabin..).
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I have a 2011 Nissan Maxima SV that has poor gas mileage. I took it to Nissan to get checked out but they said there's nothing they could do because the car is showing no codes or no check engine light. I got my spark plugs changed, it seemed like it worked but a week or so later, it went back to how it was (the gas mileage). 2 weeks later, my mechanic checked the spark plugs in front of me, no rust or leaks on them. I burn a half tank of gas every 2 days and that's just driving local to work and back.
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The ac compressor on my 2003 Maxima keeps going out. Mechanic says the replacements are refurbrished, as the new ones are hard to find and expensive. 143,000 on the car.
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I have a misfire on the number 2 cylinder on my 97 Nissan Maxima 5spd. The computer has been changed 3 times, and it'll work for a short time after the new computer is installed, but then the problem resumes. What would cause this to happen? The coil has also been changed.
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my car won't start. It would try to turn over occasionally, The battery checks out. i tried to jump start it bypassing the battery with no results. multimeter reads current though cable going from battery to alternator. what is wrong with my car??
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I have a 1998 Nissan Maxima, and when I brake or am moving very slowly in stop and go traffic, my car sounds like a foghorn. I am thinking maybe I need new brake pads, but I thought brakes were supposed to squeal when they are bad. I remember them squeaking a little bit, but nothing major. Then all of a sudden I'm starting to get this foghorn sound.
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Keep getting the P0420 code on this vehicle. Have changed air filter, spark plugs, run fuel injector cleaner through the tank on Shell 93 octane fuel. Drove 430 highway miles to clean out the carbon and the SES light is still on and when we check the code it says Catalyst system effiency below threshold bank 1. How do i get this fixed?
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2002 Nissan Maxima with 118K miles. Heating and A/C buttons that turn the fan on different levels doesn't work. It will cut on/off but the setting can be on low and it always blows on high. The temp. is correct(heat or cold) on what we set...it just always blows on high no matter what we set. It is a bush button kind of setting not a dial that you turn.
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I have a 2007 Nissan Maxima and after changing the oil added Lucas Oil Stabilizer and when I went to start the car the engine shook for about 3 seconds and I was unable to start it again. Towed it to Nissan service and they said codes came up as the camshaft sensors were bad and engine was flooded and need to dry them out before testing it out. So on Monday I received a call from the service manager and he told me that they tried replacing the camshaft sensors but it would not start. He then said that his technions working on the car believe the timing chain jump causing vavles to get bent. Cause the engine has 107k the will not repair my car and recommend a new engine. I informed the service manager I find it hard to believe that any vavles could have gotten bent with the engine running only 3 seconds and had my car towed back to my house. I tried replacing the crankshaft shaft sensor and it still will not start. So before I attempt to open the timing chain cover wanted to see if the timing chain could have jumped only running for 3 seconds and to see if it might be something else? Still don't understand why after adding the oil stabilizer to the oil it would had stalled out like that when it was running so good and starting up with no problems. I read on line that Nissan has had many issues with their timing chain guides wearing out but can't see how the oil stabilizer would effect the guide.
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My 1993 Maxima at times will not start. There is no rhyme or reason for it not starting. Either that or I have not found a particular reason or reasons for why it will not start. Sometime it is over night and at times it may happen when it sat for a couple of hours. Took it to a garage which they check the battery, starter, ignition switch, starter relay and all was okay.
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I have a 2000 Nissan Maxima GXE four-door sedan, which I purchased new. In May 2008, at 39,556 miles I had to replace the alternator. In January 2011, at 45,201 miles (+5,645 miles) I had to replace the alternator again. Now, in December 2013 at 49,630 miles (+4,429 miles) I have to replace the alternator for the third time. It just doesn’t make since that the less I drive, the more often I have to replace the alternator. The replacement alternators were remanufactured and not purchased from a Nissan dealer. Do you know what would be causing the alternators to fail? Do you think purchasing a new alternator from Nissan dealer would solve the problem?
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