Nissan - Maxima :: 2003 Makes Squeaky Noises When Turning
Aug 29, 2015
Okay so I recently replace the rear shock absorbers and now every time I take a corner or when I'm going on a surface that's not flat or just if I go over a bump too quick. I here squeaking sounds I replace the shock absorber as well as the strut mount to no avail I've found the noise I've located location of the squeak if where coil meets the mount. I don't want to replace the coil it does look like it might need some replacing the protective metal sheet is gone on the top some of the bare metal is exposed but I would hate to replace the spring and have noise again
Car is a 2003 nissan maxima with 144k ....
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What would make brakes sqeak? Especially when car has been sitting awhile.
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Ok, so I started the car this morning and there was a whining sound that sounds like winding of gears, It changed in pitch along with RPMs and when the car was in neutral (it's a stick) and the clutch not engaged, it was still there with pitch appropriate for idle RMPs. Later, when the car warmed up, the whine disappeared.
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1990 Nissan Maxima, i noticed that after changing the struts/springs on my car that when i make a hard right turn while accelerating the car makes a terrible grinding noise. I know this is a classic sign for a CV joint, but could it be anything else? It is definitely not tire rubbing, definitely metal sound. It doesnt seem to be getting worse.
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I own a 2002 Maxima that has 216K miles on it; the engine has begun to randomly sputter (never turning off), and, when this is happening and the accelerator is intermittently depressed, the tachometer does not register any increase in RPMs, plus the car does not pull itself forward. Yet occasionally the engine does rev itself, and the car lunges forward. Also, the dashboard has highlighted the ABS light, battery light, and brake light in a flashing manner at times while this is occuring. Have checked the 3-1/2 month old battery, transmission, and alternator, and all are working fine...while the car is behaving, mind you. Also, have put a gas treatment in the tank to dispel the bad gasoline notion. My mechanic has said it's registering 17 volts, when it should register 14 volts, but he hasn't identified the source. What's going on?
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It is a '90 Nissan Maxima. I just replaced my drivers side axle (cv joint was clicking), and now my car vibrates at highway speeds when turning right. I am pretty sure I seated the axle correctly....could it be a bad axle? I heard that turning the axle 90 degrees and reinstalling may work? I got a new axle (Empi brand).
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I have a 2003 Camry 'SE Automatic with almost 18,000 miles - that's right, low mileage. This week the steering wheel started making squeaky noises when I turn it. It doesn't matter which way I turn, it will squeak and it doesn't happen all the time. Should I be worried and what can I do about it?
NOTE: This started happening the day after we had got an 1 or 2 of snow. That morning when I opened the door to get the brush/scraper and little snow fell in the driver's side of the car. Perhaps a little fell on the steering wheel.
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The ac compressor on my 2003 Maxima keeps going out. Mechanic says the replacements are refurbrished, as the new ones are hard to find and expensive. 143,000 on the car.
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Okay so I have a 2003 Nissan Maxima 150k and the problem that I'm experiencing is that when the vehicle is in drive my foot on the brake for example at a red light and I have the AC on the engine will begin to stumble similar to a misfire however no check engine light will be displayed if I were to turn the AC off and sit at a red light in here with my foot on the brake the car idles fine and smooth the car currentl drives fine accelerates fine idles fine it's only when I'm stopped with my foot on the brake and the car and in drive with the AC on that the engine stumbles accelerating or cruising any speed above idle with a/c the runs smooth its only at idle and the simple is not predictable it happens often but at random intervals
What I've done so far 1.5 years ago I put in iridium spark plugs Recently cleaned the throttle body its a electronic throttle body Fuel pump and filter were replace in March 2016I tested the alternator put a load on it to see if the engine would stumble but it didn't
My a/C blows cold air and everything in the car works.
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I recently bought a 2003 nissan maxima 134k and i bought it with the p0300 check engine light on a looked at the engine and though it was an air box problem because they had previously installed a K&n filter so I went to the junk yard and got a 2000 nissan maxima air box and new filter i changed the oil and checked the spark plugs they look new and the dates on the coils are 2012 and 2013 and still its misfiring. i bought it to a mechanic and he discovered a vacuum tank had previously broke and they glued back together so i replace that with a factory one today same problem still misfiring but it got better but now its a p0306 then i erased the code and p0304 came back i erased it then p0302 came back then i change the cam sensors, and the crankshaft sensor and now it get a p0300.
Symptoms:
*when sitting for a long time HARD TO START ( takes multiple cranks to start it ) but once i leave it off for short time like 30 min it starts right up no problem
* when stop at a stop light in drive i can feel small little explosions sounds like my car is beat boxing
*performance is strong good acceleration no problem on that i just don't want it misfiring
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I have a 2003 Nissan maxima and at first it used to shake at around 50mph, took it to the shop they looked into the suspension, did wheel balance, changed 2 front tires and wheel alignment and they said it should be fixed. A week later, it started shacking at around 70 mph, what else should I do to get ride of this problem?
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I just recently replaced all 4 struts on a 2003 Nissan maxima with 144k and the front are fine its just the back drivers side it makes a clunk every time I hit a big pot hole or a medium sized bump the shocks are doing there job the car feels great its just I have excessive noise the top strut mount nuts were torqued in place and so was the bottom. When I put my hands on the rear driver side quarter panel and start bouncing the car it makes no sounds its only when I start driving. The strut came with the bump stop the only thing I reused was the spring and mount and bushings in between but I took pics of the strut before I compressed it and took it a apart everything is where it supposed to be I'm puzzled...
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I bought a 2003 nissan maxima with 135k and it had a p0300 it had a performance k&n filter on it so i though someone might have installed it wrong or what ever so i bought the car cheap. i have replace the k&n filter with a stock 2000 nissan maxima air box with new filter i got from the junkyard it worked for the misfire calm down a little then i bought the car to a mechanic and he said because of my hard starting it could be a cam senor or crank senors so I've replaced that still no luck then he pulled out the spark plugs and they were sooty black but when i bought the car i checked and they were brand new so i swap them out with ngk platinum spark plugs then work a little but still same problem. i had a p0302,p0304,p0306 when i clear the p0300 but usually its all ways a p0300, its been a month and I am still driving like this.
SYMPTOMS:
Hard starting after 20 mins of sitting
I can smell gas from the driver seat when i start the car and open the window
Exhaust air isn't smooth but in pops
Getting like 14-15 mpg in city
When stopped at a stop light i can feel the car misfiring
WHAT I HAVE REPLACED:
Front bay 3 ngk spark plugs cylinders 2,4,6
Cylinder 4 coil
Air box
Cam sensor and crankshaft senor
Coolant temperature sensor
Battery
[URL] ....
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I own a 2003 Nissan Maxima SE with a 6-speed manual transmission. The car has just under 113,000 miles on it. I've religiously maintained the vehicle per the owner's manual and overall it is in excellent condition. In particular, we change the oil on a regular basis per the maintenance schedule. However, on several occasions we have started to hear rattling coming from the engine. The rattling occurs at all engine speeds and in all gears and it doesn't matter whether the car has just been started or if the engine has been running for a while.
When the rattling has gotten more prominent, we've taken the car to the dealership and also to our local oil change place and on both of those occasions, they've told us that the engine oil was VERY low. Also on both of those occasions, we were well within the recommended range in between oil changes (<3000-3500 miles). We have not noticed leaking oil in our driveway or in our garage. I am wondering about the potential reasons why we could be losing oil, and if we aren't seeing any in our driveway where it's going? I've mentioned this to friends and they've said it's 'burning oil' - but we're not noticing any strange smells or smoke. The car is ~10 years old but it's fun to drive and in great condition.
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I THINK my wheel bearings are going on my 2003 Nissan Altima. It has about 95k miles on it and it has been making what I would call a mid-toned rumble or a low pitched rattle (imagine shaking a metal box full of rocks). The noise is coming from the front driver's side. It's more subdued when driving in really wet weather. I am more aware of it when I drive at slower speeds. It doesn't seem to change when I turn the wheel either way, and it definitely gets more pronounced when I go over a bump or a rough patch. I recently had my front rotors and pads replaced, naiively hoped that might fix it - wishful thinking - and stupidly forgot to ask my mechanic about it then. I need to call to schedule a repair, but I would like to be prepared and to know if anything else might make this noise. (and I don't want to jack it up and shake the wheel or anything).Approximately how much does it cost to have this fixed?
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03 Xterra makes whining noise at 2200-2500 rpm. Noise goes away outside this range. At 3000 rpm sounds like tachy cable rattles. Have had Nissan check trans, diff, muffler. No luck.
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My son's 2001 Prius (Gen I) has squeaky noises in the front end. When I had the two front tires replaced yesterday, I asked them to see if they could diagnose the problem and he said he thought it could be the control arm because he had had the same noise in his Toyota Camry and that was what it was.
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Looks like my struts and springs are getting old that they're making squeaky noises over the bumps. Had a shop checked to make sure and they suggested replacing them. I've been wanting to do air ride but not a lot of good shops in town have done that before. So far by searching, most complete kits run around $4k or so without installation. Is that about right? How complicate is it to do the installation?
My second option was to purchase coilovers and put them in myself. Cheap and easy. But again, there are 4-5 brands out there? Megan, D2, BC, K-Sport, etc? I want it mildly lowered and not too bouncy. What spring rates should I get?
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I changed both idler pulleys (AC and Alternator) and still I hear metal-to-metal noise. If a bearing is bad on one of the other pulleys, how do I find that out and can I replace it myself?
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So I already changed the Driver Side upper Control arm. But there is still squeaky noises coming from the trunk area, esp at low speeds going over small hills and small pot holes. I saw this is common on our cars and wanted to know which parts were to be replaced. At 110k, is it worth repairing piece by piece or should I do the shocks, ball joints and such at once.
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My 2001 4.6L F-150 has been sitting on the driveway, used once every 2 weeks or so for the last 3 yrs. I came to start it a few days ago and it kept turning over but not starting. The key security chip is working, battery is charged, all plugs are firing, fuel pump fuse and relay check good. When I turn the key to ON, sometimes I hear the fuel pump priming, other times it doesn't. The times it does prime, the truck fires right up.
The times it doesn't prime, engine won't start. When the pump does prime, and while the engine is running, the pump makes a noticeable buzzing sound, much louder than normal. When the pump primes. fuel pressure measures at 42psi in the ON position, 36psi with engine running, and 46psi with engine running and vacuum hose removed. I believe all these are within specs.
My question is this: Is it safe to assume that the pump is going bad and will eventually fail completely? My second question is (and I know this can be debated til the end of time) should I get the Motorcraft or aftermarket? I have Airtex, Spectra, Carter, and Delphi available locally.
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