Nissan - Maxima :: 1998 - Runs Rough Once It Warms Up - Doesn't Idle Well
Feb 27, 2014
My 98 Maxima won't idle without dying, it sputters when you accelerate, and it tries to die while coasting. I've changed two O2 sensors (AutoZone gave me the code for bank 1 sensor 1 & 2) changed spark plugs, tried fuel injector cleaner, oil change, and cleaned MAF sensor & checked the wiring. It;s still spitting out the black exhaust. Although after changing the O2 sensors it quit for about a day or two but started again (I'm guessing the other sensors need to be changed to) But the main problem is once it warms up, it really runs like crap, and is a major gas hog. I'm getting about 12 Mpg.
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1994 Maxima SE 5 speed manual with 178k runs great when engine is cold, then a cylinder starts missing. Symptom is worse in low gears. Then, miles and miles without a miss. Replaced rear ignition coil and it seemed to fix the problem... for about 20 miles, then it started missing again. And stops missing… for miles.
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1998 Nissan Maxima had a check engine light come on and started running very rough. I took it to get a code read and came up with P0320 and P0325. I'm not worried about the 0325 since that's a knock sensor. 0320 is a misfire on cylinder 2.
With the car idling, I pulled the power connector from coil pack 2 to see if it made a difference in the idle - nope. I did the same for the other cylinders, and each responded with a noticeable change in the idle, which was remedied when it was reconnected.
I moved the coil pack from #2 to #4 (swapping them) and the same problem existed - idle was rough and didn't make a difference when I pulled the power on 2, but it did on all other coil packs. So, it seems the coil pack ins't the problem since multiple packs don't seem to make 2 work, but they work on other 4 and 6.
I then pulled the spark plug from cylinder 2, it was very black and looked in bad shape. I replaced it. Still no love.
I then put a spare plug in the coil and was able to see spark as the engine ran, so it seems that the coil pack at 2 is getting juice.
So, I have gas (big odor when the car is running - seems super rich) I have spark. Still running very rough and the 0320 code remains.
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My car has suddenly started stalling a lot. I can get it to start right up if I put the clutch to the floor and it will idle fine until I start coming up of the clutch even while it in neutral. At times it will idle in neutral then start to idle rough and stall. I can drive it in reverse but can't drive it forward except in first if i keep the clutch at a certain point and not release it all the way. However when I try other gears sometimes it's like it does't want to go stalls. What it might be?
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My daughter has a 1993 maxima SE (3.0 DOHC) that ran ok until one day when she left work and started the car it was running very rough (missing and sputtering). She had the car towed here and I looked it over,it had a lot of visible problems which I have fixed (cracked coil packs,leaking valve cover gaskets, filthy fuel filter,clogged pcv valve, oil saturated air filter,spark plugs burned down to nubs etc, I replaced all those obviously defective parts) but the car still idles very rough, idles too low RPMs (400-500 rpms), exhaust smells like raw fuel and it only gets 5 miles to the gallon on my last test drive.
I removed the intake manifold to get to the rear fuel injectors to see if they might be stuck open and leaking.The car had been sitting for about 5 days with the battery disconnected and when I removed the first injector there was no fuel in the injector or the rail and no pressure in the rail.I left the injector out overnight and the next morning there was fuel all over the top of the engine and in the fuel rail.I put the injector back in and unbolted the rail,I reconnected the battery and turned the key to start the fuel pump.I waited for about 3-4 minutes and did not see any fuel leaking from the injectors.I turned the key off and removed it from the ignition,disconnected the battery and bolted the fuel rail back down.I again removed one of the injectors and there was no fuel in the injector or the rail and no pressure in the rail.After about 2 minutes, with the key out of the ignition and the battery disconnected,I saw fuel start filling the rail and the injector port, so I quickly put the injector back in.
I`m thinking the next step would be to replace the fuel pressure regulator and recheck the injectors for leaks.Am I on the right track here with the pressure regulator? What could be causing the car to suddenly start acting this way, my daughter said the car ran fine on her way to work ( although I hardly think it could have been running "fine" with cracked coil packs,clogged air filter,worn plugs etc)...
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1993 Nissan Maxima. Great little car except when engine gets warmed up it begins to run rough and dies. At idle, when accelerating, while maintaining speed. Since its a manual it is a simple matter of dropping into neutral and it fires right up again... no problem. Then stall repeats. Went through routine steps checking plugs, filters, wires, sensors etc.. The O2 sensor (only one) is gone - as is the converter. At some point someone replaced it with a straight pipe.
After not finding a obvious answer, I began to ask around (auto-part stores, neighbors, some patrons at the saloon). Conclusion... OBD failure causing a "kill" routine which shuts off the engine. When I restart, it resets. Once it fails to enter a static state (engine is warm) it kills again. I replaced the computer with a used one "known" to operate (so the e-bay seller said) Installed it and bingo, car ran like a top for 15 full minutes - best ever. Then after 15 minutes or so, suddenly began to run rough and stalled twice before I got back home. I runs now just as before (but oh those glorious 15 minutes).
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I have Nissan Maxima 1997, yesterday I was not able to start my car and so my mechanic replaced Starter. After replacing starter car is starting but now when I start driving it just starts for few feet's and stops suddenly. When it stops engine also stops, I can start car again and it again drives and than stop completely. This is happening continuously when I do reverse or fwd driving both. I suspect that this has something to do with replacement of Starter, during replacement my mechanic dismantle few things to reach the starter and I doubt that some part is not loose and not plugged in properly. I never faced this issue in the past.
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The car is a 1998 Nissan Maxima. As you well know a car's interior in the summer is about 10 to 15 degrees more than the outside. When the outside temperature is 80 degrees or more I can't readily start the car. I turn the key and nothing happens. Sometimes I put the switch into the "on" position wait about 20 to 30 seconds, turn the key again and the engine starts. I think I need an ignition switch. My question is why does this happen? What does the temperature of the car's interior have to do with the poor operation of the switch? The interior of the car must be about 75 degrees or less for the car to start.
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Just recently bought a 07 Nissan Maxima SE. Has a few issues.
The car sun roof does not work at all. It worked the day I bought it though.
Has issues turning on. Cranks slowly then after a few seconds of struggle it turns. Didn't have this issue when I bought it.
Goes idle when first starting to drive. From park, I put the car in drive, or reverse, and let go of the brake, it basically does nothing. Engine is on as if it were in park or neutral, but the car doesnt move. When I press the gas it takes a few seconds before it decides to actually move.
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I have a 1998 Maxima with 57K miles on it. I just bought it about a month ago. Anyway, a week ago I noticed It felt very "choppy" when I shifted into Drive or Reverse. It felt like it was going to stall but it never did. The Service Engine Soon light has been on for about 3 weeks but now, when I go up hills especially, that light blinks. I can still drive it but I shift into Neutral at stoplights to avoid hearing the rough idle while in Drive. Went to Pep Boys yesterday - they had the car for about an hour and then informed me that they would need to keep the car for a full day because of the "complex issues involved" - especially concerning the codes. The codes they read were:
p0300 random misfire
p0325 knock sensor
p0440 evap emission
My car passed smog test abut 3 months ago. I can drive it OK it just is very choppy and so there's not a lot of power, especially going up hills.
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My car has been stalling out while at stop lights and while driving as well as spuddering and hesitating . i brought it in to the shop twice and both times they said it ran fine . they ran the code and gave me a new oxygen sensor and it still stalled. i brought it to autozone today and they ran the code and camshaft position sensor came up. so i put a new one in and it still is stalling and hesitating to drive. also smells really bad when it kick in. What could be wrong . short circuit or wiring trouble maybe? fuel pump ? crankshaft? electrical problem? spark plugs? cant get a straight answer.
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I have a 1998 Nissan Maxima. I just had both top and bottom valve gaskets replaced due to oil seepage. About a week prior to this repair, I noticed the car would have trouble starting, but it was very intermittent.Now I am experiencing the starting issue 50% or more of the time when trying to start.I'm horrible at describing the actual issue, but I am going to try. I turn the key and it has trouble turning over quickly. No tinking or clicking or anything like that. I have had the battery and alternator checked and both are fine. When i had the valve gaskets replaced, the shop i used checked the starter and told me it was o.k. I'm really having a tough time figuring this out and don't want to get "taken for a ride" money wise.
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Car has 252k miles runs ruff after engine warms up, looses power, if I give more gas, car will sputter, but rev up to 5k engine smoothes out. This situation constantly comes and goes.
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I have an 03 F350 with the 6.0L. It has 210,000 miles on it and the injectors are beginning to be suspect. Its very hard to start when its cold, smokes and runs like crap untill it warms up.
I've found a set of injectors out of a 2005 truck with 8000 miles on them. The truck was overboosted and blew a head gasket.
Now finally to my question.....Can the overboost damage the injector? Would it be safe to buy these and install them or rebuild them before install or just leave them alone?
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2000 F350. Starts great. Idles fine. After it warms up a little, it will run rough and lose power like it is only hitting on a few cylinders. It will eventually stall unless I push the clutch in and bring it back to idle and then it smooths back out. I figured it was starving for fuel but I can rev it with the clutch in with no issue. I ran it up to 2500 rpm and held it there with the clutch in and ran perfect.
I let the clutch out and start rolling....missing again. The check engine light does come on but my scanner says that there are no codes stored. If I idle it, it will smooth out, and the light goes off. All I have done so far was change the fuel filter which was almost plugged shut and the housing was full of rust looking debris which I cleaned out. BINGO! Nope. Same issue.
I am really at a loss as to where to start. I bought this with 120k on it and it now has 170k and I have not had to do anything other than routine maintenance.
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I have a noise that has developed in the front drivers side(wheel area). When I turn right -- it can only be heard at slow speed, when I start from a stop-- there is a " tapping" type noise that appears to come from the wheel area. Is it possible that I am about to have problems from the CV axle?
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My Nissan Maxima GLE 2000 is showing CEL with code of P1320 ONLY, and the car is running rough/or loss of power. The shop that checked for the code advised that it could be something related to Ignition, and also provided me with the system generated list of reasons for the code. Before I decide to do anything, I wanted to check what option I have to address this in a most cost effective manner:
1) Is there a quick way to check which coil would have gone bad ?
2) Is it advisable to change 1 LH and 1RH at a time, and see if it fixes the problem ?
3) Could it be cam shaft sensor that could have gone bad ? Are there any symptoms of cam shaft sensor failure to isolate it to one way or the other ?
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1990 Maxima..245,000 miles...car idles fine except when sitting at stoplight for more than 15 seconds, then idle starts to drop slowly and become unstable. Then there is a separate issue: After putting the car in Park (after warming up) the car will drop/surge from approximately 1500 to 1800 rpms three times and then go back down to normal (I am guessing transmission clutch).
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We have a 1996 GMC Sierra 1500 Turbo Diesel and since yesterday, it's had a problem... When it warms up, it runs really rough and misses at idle. While it is doing this, white smoke spills from the exhaust. When we rev it to about 2000 rpm it runs smoothly. Sometimes at idle it misses bad enough to stall. Some say it could be the IP, EGR or injectors?
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2001 Grand am 2.4. Runs fine when the engine is cold but when it warms up the idle is rough. When throttle is added from idle, RPM's drop, it hesitates, then either stalls or goes. Car runs just fine when there is a load on the engine (highway speeds). Sometimes it will even stall coming onto off ramps off the freeway. It intermittently shifts hard. SES light is on p0108. Have replaced the MAP sensor and checked for vacuum leaks, still have the light and the same problems.
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I am the original owner of a 1993 Nissan Altima. My mechanic states that the air intake (part # 165751E400 "air duct")has dry rotted. He put some silicone hoping that would seal it but it did not work. The part is no longer available from Nissan. The car runs very rough and wants to stall when coming to a stop. It also smells like gasoline in the cabin and the gas mileage is terrible 17 mpg. I have tried to find someone who could custom make a new hose with no luck. My mechanic stated that pulling one from a used car would have the same problem. What other options are available? The hose is about 8 inches long and about 3-4 inches diameter. It has other small hoses that attached to it. Do I throw away an otherwise reliable car?
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