Nissan - Maxima :: 1991 - Gas Pedal Has To Be Pressed Down To The Floor To Move The Car An Inch
Mar 27, 2011
Details about my car: '91 Nissan Maxima. His name is Max. 183,265ish miles on it. Transmission was replaced maybe 8 years ago(?) My dad said the oil was changed at the 500 mark. Filled the tank up at Citgo with regular gas on Friday and only drove about 50 miles (I fill up every 200 miles or less). Max turns on but you have to floor it just to move an inch and it smells like gas.
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On my 1996 Maxima (175k miles, maintained well, good shape, no CEL), whenever I brake beyond a "normal" stop but short of a panic stop, I then put my foot on the gas and it revs as though it's in neutral. It then catches first gear, and the car drives normally. As for the stopping conditions, I don't mean a normal "here comes a stop sign" comfortable stop, and I'm not stopping so hard that I activate the ABS. More like, I look up, see a stop sign 1 second too late, and have to stop slightly shorter than a comfortable stop. The ATF is fine, by the way. Any clue what this could be?
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I have a 2000 Grand Prix 3.8 with 65,000 miles. Bought the car new for the wife to drive. The front brake lines rusted out. My wife has a friend who is a backyard mechanic. She had him replace the front brake lines, from the abs block to each front wheel. Well she finally told me that the brake pedal is not right. I went out and sure enough with pressure on the pedal it goes to an inch off the floor. I bled all for lines at each caliper, no change in pedal. I bled almost a full bottle of fluid. You can pump the pedal for 10 minutes and no change in the pedal. I don't think it is air in the line. I changed the pads and rotors on all four corners last fall. The brake pedal was normal then.
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Just recently bought a 07 Nissan Maxima SE. Has a few issues.
The car sun roof does not work at all. It worked the day I bought it though.
Has issues turning on. Cranks slowly then after a few seconds of struggle it turns. Didn't have this issue when I bought it.
Goes idle when first starting to drive. From park, I put the car in drive, or reverse, and let go of the brake, it basically does nothing. Engine is on as if it were in park or neutral, but the car doesnt move. When I press the gas it takes a few seconds before it decides to actually move.
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After my local brake shop changed the front rotors and brake pads on my 99 grand cherokee the brake pedal is spongy and long, almost reaching the floor. They don't know why. Apparently they had a problem with fitting the new pads. I took it to the jeep dealer and they told me the master brake cylinder was leaking and needed to be replaced. many hundreds of dollars later the brakes are still spongy and long and does not correct with repeated pumping. The dealer was also stumped and I complained that nothing changed with the new master cylinder. what might be the problem?
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02 Montana with 4T65E electronic 4 speed transmission. car has 75000 miles. normal driving and shifting seems to be fine. Transaxle will not downshift with accelerator pedal pressed to the floor. no check or service engine lights.
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Ok, did an intake manifold cleaning on my 99 Accord the other day, and now I have problems...
Long story short, some time ago my car started to have a very rough idle. Took me awhile to find the problem. Turned out the air hose, between the filter and throttle body, had developed a big hole on the underside. So I replaced it and while I was at it used some throttle body cleaner, spraying into the intake manifold chamber. Lot of junk blew out the tailpipe. The car ran much better, but the idle could still be a little rough. I ran it that way for awhile, and finally the other day decided there was probably still some junk in there and it was time to really clean it out. So I took ff the throttle body and intake manifold housing. There was a lot of junk in there! The small intake on the passenger side was completely clogged shut. (I understand this isn't surprising on these cars.) I used a bunch of rags and 2 cans of Valvoline throttle body cleaner and a lot of elbow grease and cleaned it out. I was thinking to myself that whatever I didn't get with the rags flushed through OK, but I didn't want to take the whole intake manifold out.
So I put it all back together. (I took a video before I started, so I'm pretty sure it's all back together right.) But now I have problems. The car starts. It idles fine mostly, but can be a bit rough. But the trouble starts when I put the pedal down. If I do it in Park, well, if I push it quick the engine just dies. If I push it slow, the engine revs then quits, revs and quits, over and over. Similar if it's in gear. If I push it hard, the engine stalls. If I push it gentle, it revs up, but chugs along a bit.
I've run some seafoam through it, thinking it was clogged up with all that junk, and sure enough, lots of smoke comes out, but nothing is improving so far. What have I done wrong?
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Recently my F350 has failed to downshift when the accelerator pedal is pressed to the floor to speed up in traffic. It will usually happen when traveling at speeds in the 30's-40's. It will shift quickly at slower speeds. I have a scan guage on it all the time and it is not throwing any codes.
The transmission has only been serviced by the dealer; last done about 24000 miles ago. No leaks or low fluids/no burned smells. Stock setup with no heavy towing use. Currently at 228000+ miles, this is the first issue with the transmission assuming I am looking at the right area for the cause.
2005 F350 XLT 4WD
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The transmission is a Six-speed MQ350 transmission in an MKIV 337 GTI.
I was driving last week and ran over a large snow chunk, heard it hit the underside of my car. A mile down the road my foot is resting on the clutch pedal at a stop light, and the clutch slowly went to the floor. It was still drivable, barely. The clutch came about an inch off the floorboard, but still caught. So i pull into the parking lot ahead of me, and was barely able to move the shifter left to right nor would the shifter go into gear. There were no fluids coming from under the car, nor could i see anything that looked wrong. I turned off, back on again. nothing. I then pulled the clutch pedal up from the floor and it went back to normal. Everything seems normal now, but the shifter seemed a little sticky yesterday from left to right.
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Is it possible that my break pedal was frozen this morning? I pulled out and drove the 1/4 mile up my shared driveway. When I tried to stop at the top of the road, my break pedal wouldn't move. I think the van that I pulled out in front of was just as surprised as I was! It was 12 degrees here, but I've never heard of such a thing.
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Since I have gotten my Sentra 2003 I have had issues with it. This past year my thermostat went about 6 weeks ago. I noticed that when my car would idle the engine would rev. Over the weekend I drove on the highway for 2 hours. When I started slowing the speed don I noticed that I could press the clutch pedal all the way to the floor without any resistance. It came back up. I rolled into the toll plaza and stopped to pay the toll at which point I could shift the shifter into a gear but the car would not catch. No movement. I think my clutch mechanism needs to be fully replaced as the car has 115000 miles with the original still intact. IS that most likely the case and what am I looking at for the cost?
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Noticed yesterday when I turn my car off, the wipers move about an inch. It is very odd. Is there something I am missing?
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I drive with the seat slider in the full back position. I'd like to gain another inch or so....just enough to where I'm not touching the rear seat. Not worried about rear passengers. How easy would it be to either reposition the seat anchor points or modify the seat itself to do this? Also, has anyone tilted the front of the seat up a little to give more thigh support? I was also thinking of shimming or otherwise raising the front half of the seat maybe 1/2 inch to give my legs a little more support.
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The truck sat since 2002 or so. Hasn't ran since, So my brother and me towed it home and I started working on it. I replace the tailgate, Replaced the lights, Did a oil change, Dropped the gas tank out and ran a gallon of gas and seafoam through it. Then I was driving it the other day and I decided to play the radio so I pressed the power button and I heard a pop noise. Like not a fuse pop noise. This happens every time you turn it on/change the volume. Its coming from the speakers and the louder the volume the louder the popping is. Is the radio just bad? Its a funny square shape and I haven't ever seen a radio that would fit this. I checked all the fuses and I found nothing.
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I have an 09 Subaru Outback. I filled up the tank at the gas station I usually goto. Drove about 30 miles on the tank to the airport where the car was parked for 5 days in an airport gated pay lot. Left the airport, I got about 10 miles and then the car would no longer accelerate. I pressed on the gas and could hear the engine rev, but the car would not move. I had to be towed to the Subaru dealer, where they said they could find nothing wrong with my car and they think I got some bad gasoline. They drained the tank and filled it up 1/2 way and the car runs fine. It still starts a little sluggish though. It sounds like it is laboring/revving when I first start the car after it has been sitting awhile, but once it is in gear it's fine. Is there anything I can do to fix the engine struggling when I first start the car?
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I have a 2011 Nissan Maxima SV that has poor gas mileage. I took it to Nissan to get checked out but they said there's nothing they could do because the car is showing no codes or no check engine light. I got my spark plugs changed, it seemed like it worked but a week or so later, it went back to how it was (the gas mileage). 2 weeks later, my mechanic checked the spark plugs in front of me, no rust or leaks on them. I burn a half tank of gas every 2 days and that's just driving local to work and back.
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The ac compressor on my 2003 Maxima keeps going out. Mechanic says the replacements are refurbrished, as the new ones are hard to find and expensive. 143,000 on the car.
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1999 Explorer XLT V6 SOHC.. I noticed today that my brakes drop nearly to the floor when I press on them. The car just passed inspection so I doubt that they brakes are worn. Master Cylinder has the correct level of fluid and the pedal is hard when the vehicle is off, so I doubt that the master cylinder is failing. How would I go about troubleshooting this problem?
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I have a misfire on the number 2 cylinder on my 97 Nissan Maxima 5spd. The computer has been changed 3 times, and it'll work for a short time after the new computer is installed, but then the problem resumes. What would cause this to happen? The coil has also been changed.
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my car won't start. It would try to turn over occasionally, The battery checks out. i tried to jump start it bypassing the battery with no results. multimeter reads current though cable going from battery to alternator. what is wrong with my car??
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I have a 1998 Nissan Maxima, and when I brake or am moving very slowly in stop and go traffic, my car sounds like a foghorn. I am thinking maybe I need new brake pads, but I thought brakes were supposed to squeal when they are bad. I remember them squeaking a little bit, but nothing major. Then all of a sudden I'm starting to get this foghorn sound.
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