Nissan - Maxima :: 1990 - Injectors Stuck Open / Lots Of White Smoke And Fuel Smell
Apr 18, 2012
'90 maxima 245,000 miles.....over the course of a few days all three rear injectors (1,3,5) are stuck open and dumping fuel....lots of white smoke and fuel smell. Mechanic told me to replace the fuel injectors, that they are bad. I do not believe this since i recently replaced the injectors. I confirmed the Ohm on the injectors(10-14) and it is getting a spark....i heard that it could be the wiring harness is grounding out? how do i test this? could my ECU be bad?
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My wife was complaining of white smoke coming from the back of the car and that she smelled gasoline. So I took her 1999 Nissan Maxima to the shop and they put it on the machine and told me that the ignition rod was stuck open and that gasoline was leaking into the engine. They also said that it was not safet to drive. What an ignition rod is and why the car is not safe to drive? The car's value is questionable at this point.
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'90 Maxima 256k.....recently I've noticed exhaust coming in through the vents when I have the AC on and have been idling or driving in slow traffic. I know I have a small exhaust manifold leak because I hear the clicking. The problem is this exhaust smell happens very intermittently. Usually on hot humid days when I have the AC on. I have tried to duplicate the issue to no avail. Sometimes I can sit in a parking lot at idle with the AC on for 30 minutes and I don't smell any exhaust (not even when I smell under the hood). How can this be? If it truly was an exhaust leak then it would leak all the time and I would smell it. Could my EGR valve be leaking? When the EGR valve is activated?
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My DD just developed a head gasket leak. I've been noticing a coolant smell for a few days and today saw lots of white smoke from the tail pipe. I figured this is where my coolant was going and sure enough there is coolant coming from the driver's side head. I've ordered the gaskets and new bolts, but need the install.
I think mostly what I will need is the intake and head bolt torque and sequence. I will need to take a few days off work to get it done. Truck is a 2002 F150 with a 5.4L engine.
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2000 Nissan Sentra with 105,000 miles. Runs great. All scheduled maintenance from the beginning. Grandma owned until I got a hold of it 2 years ago.
The beginning...
The car has had a slight exhaust-type smell for about a month. I thought it was either an exhaust leak or a small oil leak. I overlooked this as it was running great and I only drive to and from work at a total of 5 miles/day. I was going to be driving it about 20 miles so I figured I should just double check the oil.
Before my drive, I checked the oil and the dipstick said I had absolutely no oil. Backstory: I got my oil changed about 2 months ago and they broke the dipstick. They replaced it with a new one. I drove a few blocks to get oil. I purchased 2 quarts filled it up. I drove off and about a half a block later it started smoking bad. White smoke canvassing the whole street.
I turned around and went back to the auto parts store. I had a guy come out and look at it and he was baffled. The only thing he though was that it had run completely dry and it need more oil. We put 2 more quarts of oil in it (4 now) and it did not register at all on the dip-stick. A small oil leak was discovered coming from the head gasket (that was the smell). Also, there was no milkiness under the oil cap indicating
I decided to drive it back to work to leave it overnight. It smoked like hell and I made it about 4 blocks before it died. I pushed it the rest of the way and it stayed overnight.
The next day, I spoke to a mechanic friend. The only thing he could think of was that the dipstick was not the right size and it wasn’t reading any oil. The oil I put in was extra and the car was burning it off. He suggested I drain out all the oil and put 4 quarts in.
I drained all the oil but only 4 quarts came out. I added 3 quarts of oil and checked it again. Not it was reading about 10 times more oil than what I was supposed to have.
My mechanic friend said to start it up and the oil level should go down. I did start it up and the oil level did go down but it was reading about 5 times more oil than it should have. That is where I am at at this point. Hopefully it isn't a blown head gasket or piston.
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1990 Nissan Maxima, i noticed that after changing the struts/springs on my car that when i make a hard right turn while accelerating the car makes a terrible grinding noise. I know this is a classic sign for a CV joint, but could it be anything else? It is definitely not tire rubbing, definitely metal sound. It doesnt seem to be getting worse.
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1990 Maxima. Last night the car started shaking after pulling up to stop sign, it kept shaking the whole way home. Acceleration was slow and difficult. Car started up fine this morning, started to shake again at first stop sign...then it was OK for rest of the day.
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I installed lowering springs (1.5 inches front and rear) on my car, 1990 Maxima, with new performance shocks, but the ride is a little bouncy at times. I know this is from the reduced travel the shocks have..even though they are stiffer than stock. Is there any way to give a little more travel? or how to give the shocks more dampening force? (besides putting the old springs on of course). Would lighter wheels/tires work? How about loosening the center nut on the strut a bit?
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'90 Maxima...A couple of my exhaust studs broke (it was a problem for this model) and now I have an annoying exhaust leak. I tried to put a new gasket, but it started to leak again. I am thinking of using permatex copper sealant....drilling out the broken bolts and replacing them would be very expensive I think.
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'90 Maxima...I've noticed coolant reservoir has been running low/dry and I also notice coolant dripping from the overflow hose. Why would it keep pushing more coolant out if there isn't an excess in the reservoir? Engine runs fine., no other issues.
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It is a '90 Nissan Maxima. I just replaced my drivers side axle (cv joint was clicking), and now my car vibrates at highway speeds when turning right. I am pretty sure I seated the axle correctly....could it be a bad axle? I heard that turning the axle 90 degrees and reinstalling may work? I got a new axle (Empi brand).
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1999 7.3 misses when starting it cold (first start of the day even when outside temps were around 20 deg C ). It has a noticeable miss and lots of white smoke. After warming up it runs perfect. I changed the GPR and tested all glow plugs, 3 bad and one weak one all replaced. Now that it is cold out it still misses when first started, even if left plugged in.
It will start and run for approx 3 seconds perfectly smooth then it starts to miss and idle speed slows down. on one occasion I went to start it after sitting 10 plus hours plugged in and it started then missed and slowly died. Would not re start, It was firing and smoking but not enough to get going again. Went back the next day and it started and ran fine for a few weeks. Did the same thing to me yesterday, started and then petered out and died and this time it will not re start after 2 days of trying on a couple occasions. I changed out the CPS with no luck.
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1990 Maxima. The car hesitates/surges occassionally after warm start, but only surges for about first 1/4 mile, then its OK. Sometimes it idles low, especially when I come to a stop and apply brakes hard. I believe the two issues are related. This has been getting progressively worse over past few years.
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1990 Maxima..245,000 miles...car idles fine except when sitting at stoplight for more than 15 seconds, then idle starts to drop slowly and become unstable. Then there is a separate issue: After putting the car in Park (after warming up) the car will drop/surge from approximately 1500 to 1800 rpms three times and then go back down to normal (I am guessing transmission clutch).
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Just bought a 02 f-250 7.3 with 115k miles. A couple days after I bought it I noticed a lot of white smoke on cold starts for about 20-30 sec at 50 degree temperature. So I tested the GPR which ended up being bad a replaced with the one that is double in size(name escapes me atm) and also did the 50 cent mod to keep the through-valve cover harness from losing connection since both sides were lose.
After that the temp warmed back up and it would only blow a "puff" of white smoke. The past two days it has gotten down to 30-32 and the truck has a rough time starting. Cranks fine but it's almost like it's getting choked or flooded then it will blow smoke for 3-4 minutes after it starts. The truck does have a FASS fuel system on it with stock injectors. Should I try to Ohm out the glow plugs again or where should I start trouble shooting?
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no change, changed stand pipe and dummy plug on driver side, no change and guess what? Now I am stuck on the side of the road waiting to give my last $100 to a tow truck! Engine is hydrolocked, fuel pressure is low, starts off at around 20 and works up to 54 with key on engine off, and that is as much as I know from the side of the road with out my AE. Blew white smoke also. Smelled of unburnt diesel. I think it's linked to my rough running issue. Maybe a bad injector? But every time I did the click test they all passed. Idk, I'm gonna remove the glow plugs and see which hole is loaded and with what. . .
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I have a 2001 7.3 with 243k. I think the injectors are shot but other people including a local mechanic say it's not the injectors. What the truck does is smoke white. Sometimes little puffs when accelerating. Sometimes clouds that make the people behind you drop back a 100 feet. I have a ts6 on the truck and that alone with the 243k miles is enough to think its bad injectors. It smoke white. The exhaust is moist to the touch with soot built up like crazy. It doesn't really smell sweet and it's not really blue at all. It's getting horrible mpg. And lacks power. I don't have a high enough psi gauge to test compression. All arrows pointing to injectors?
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My 2001 7.3 was smoking excessively and I rebuilt the turbo and the center cartridge was at fault for that. I'm still having some of the problems I was having before with a lot of smoke at cold start (I have to hold the accelerator down while I start it and it takes about 10 seconds to start) even when I hold it I have to keep it held for about 5-10 seconds before the RPMs get to where they should be. And it smokes like crazy.
Then after about 3 minutes warming up, or 30 seconds of me holding it at 3500 rpm, the idle smooths out and it only smokes a little. Then once I start driving it doesn't smoke a lot unless I go hammer down then it puffs some white smoke. I took the oil cap off and it isn't huge amounts of blow by cap just rattles off. Can ford buzz test and see if I only have 1 or 2 bad injectors? Could this be anything other than injectors? It has a ts6 on it with 24xxxx miles with factory injectors.
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My car recently started showing an issue where the car shifter is stuck in parking. Temporarily, I used the shift lock release and was able to unlock it. Also, I think the switch lock control switch seems to be OK, as I hear the click noise when I press the brake with key in ACC position.
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My ABS light stayed on after driving home in slippery conditions last night. I also noticed a burning smell when I parked in the garage.
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I have a 1999 Nissan Maxima that I am going to pass on to my soon to be 16 year old daughter. Her sister had it when she was 17-18 after I used it for several years. It has 240,000 miles, is in excellent condition and has had many of the vital components of the vehicle replaced. It now suddenly has started blowing a whitish smoke from the tailpipe. It has a very strong fuel smell while at idle or at a stop light or sign. It losses no oil, or coolant. The service engine light came on at the same time roughly that this smoke showed up. Under diag. hook-up it says bad o2 sensor. Should I assume that replacing the o2 sensor will solve this issue? If so, is that something I could do? I read online how to do it and it seems rather simple.
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