I have a 2004 Nissan Frontier pickup that pulls to the left. I've had the alignment done - no change. I had the tires moved from the left to the right side - still no change. Firestone is recommending I all the front ball joins at a cost of $1200. Is that really the problem?
View 6 RepliesJust replaced break pads and rotors. Inner pad on left side was gone leading me to believe slides were not working properly. Pulled apart, cleaned and greased everything, and replaced pads and rotors. Calipers seem to be working fine. Now when I break hard, the truck pulls badly to the left. When I break softly, it seeks normal. My front end is a bit out of whack and veers just a bit to the left. Do you think this is my issue with the breaking ? I'm getting new tires and an alignment soon but was just curious.
View 3 RepliesTruck pulls to the left while braking, pretty bad. So, pulled the front right wheel off thinking the pins are stuck again as last year. Bottom pin was fine, top pin pretty gummed up but not froze so I cleaned it up good, used thin layer of the good stuff, put back together and test drove........same thing. Pulls left upon braking just as bad as before. Caliper pistons seemed fine, didn't take much to compress them either. Would a right rear cause this?
View 14 RepliesOK so when I'm driving on freeways or highways and I have to break hard for some reason my steering wheel always pulls in some direction I don't want it to go. forcing me to hold it straight I've lived with this problem for a while but I'm doing 500 miles trips this weekend in the car and am concerned about if I had to brake at higher speeds etc., what might cause my steering wheel to pull left and right... 2003 nissan maxima ...
View 7 Replies2001 Ex 7.3 4x4 with 4" lift (6" with 37" Pro Comp tires)
All new front end steering components.
All new Shocks (bilstein)
All tires properly inflated to same PSI
All new brake rotors, calipers, caliper mounts, and pads.
When under hard acceleration the vehicle pulls to the left and I have to compensate by steering to the right. Under deceleration the vehicle pulls to the right and I have to compensate by steering to the left.
I am about to change all four brake lines to Braided Stainless Steel lines, replace all leaf spring bushings with polyurethane, and install a rear anti-sway bar. I'm going through this methodically enough or am I just building a brand new truck one part at a time?
I have a 2004 Nissan Frontier with V6 non-supercharged engine, 4x4, with manual transmission, 150k miles. For approximately the last 30k miles, I have had a persistent shuddering in the cab when I apply the brakes slowing from about 15 to 0 MPH. It is accompanied by a low humming noise that decreases in pitch as the truck slows down. It only happens when the brakes are warm; about 70+ degrees outside or after I've been slowing down a lot. It does not seem to correspond to engine temperature, only my perceived temperature of the brakes. There is no pedal feedback, and it does not shudder when I stop using only the parking brake. It does not seem to affect stopping distance.
I first tried to fix it by doing a very thorough front/rear brake job - new pads/shoes, new rotors/drums, and repacked front wheel bearings. That had no effect on the problem. I tried rotating the tires and that had no effect. I then did a complete front end job and replaced all the bushings and balljoints via brand new pre-assembled control arm assemblies. I also replaced the tie rod assemblies, sway bar bushings/end links, and had an alignment done. That had no effect.
Based on the repairs I've done, I would assume that it is having to do with the front brakes, but is not warped rotors or anything in the front suspension.
My 2003 F250 6.0 pulls to the right when driving at any speed. In order to keep it going straight the steering wheel must be slightly tilted to the left, not much but a little. When the brakes are applied hard it will go to the left slightly if you are not holding the wheel good. Neither of these are terrible, just a nuisance. I'm worried about uneven tire wear too. One front wheel bearing was replaced a few weeks ago. It had this problem before that and still does after. Does this sound like an alignment or maybe something more?
View 13 RepliesI have a 2004 Nissan Frontier pickup that I bought used in 2012. Shortly after I purchased it the the check engine light came on, would go off and back on. Last year (before inspection) I hooked it to the diagnostic auto scanner and it read the error as four oxygen sensors. The truck was running fine but in order to get it inspected I ended up changing all four sensors. The light came back on within the week (as soon as it rained) then would go off a few days later. Rain--on, then off. I managed to get it in for inspection on one of the days the light was off. So, now it is again inspection time. Light is on, still error on the scanner as oxygen sensors. Light has not gone off in a long time.
Also noting here that I have checked this error on several different scanners. The truck is running fine. Before I take it to the dealership is there anything else this could be?
My AC went last fall. I saw signs of a leak in the high pressure line. Took it to the Nissan dealer last week and they diagnosed the same problem. They changed the HP line. Told me it was good, but when they pulled it up, no AC. They took it back in and said the low pressure line was leaking as well so they changed it. Still didn't work, although it was a little cooler but the compressor seemed pretty loud. Told me they thought it might be the thermistor. I bought the sensor and replaced it myself. AC seemed to work, but sure enough, it only blows slightly cool air and the compressor is still making a bit of noise.
View 2 Replies'04 frontier 6cyl, 90k miles. My AC recently started cooling poorly, although still slightly cold, especially at higher rpms. At the same time, I noticed a buzzing noise that changes pitch with rpms and only occurs with ac on. I can hear it loudest from the glove box area, and can't really hear it under the hood. The compressor clutch works fine. With the car off, I can spin the compressor and it feels fine, no noise. With ac on, the low pressure tube gets cold. I hope it's not a bad compressor.
View 9 RepliesThe power steering fluid in my 2004 Nissan Frontier crew cab leaks as the weather turns cold, the colder it gets the worse it leaks.
View 4 Replies04 Camry XLE, 63k miles. Since we bought this car, it has pulled to the left. I've taken it to two shops I trust and they showed me the report showing that the alignment is correct. This leads me to believe there is a worn joint somewhere that allows the front wheels to aim a bit left when driving. Where would be a good place to start troubleshooting?
Background: So far, I've called Toyota to verify that our car is up to speed on all TSB's and it is.
I've put my hand over the intermediate steering shaft upper joint while my wife moves the wheel side to side. There is some play there, but not much. I'm not sure how much there should be.
Could my strut replacement have anything to do with my 2009 pulling left when I brake.
View 6 RepliesI have a '99 Nissan Frontier 4cyl. p'up and the air conditioner kept going off. The truck has three drivebelts, all inline. The first is Crankshaft to the Power steering pump , the second goes from Crankshaft to the water-pump & the alternator and the third one goes to the air-conditioning compressor; the one that keeps coming off my truck & shutting down the A.C. I replaced it three times and the last time it went off within a couple of miles. I know the crankshaft and the A.C. compressor pulley's are out of line and believe that's my problem. A mechanic friend of mine looked at it and said he thought it was something called a belt-leveler that keeps all the belts from slipping off.
View 2 RepliesIt's a 2000 Frontier V6 4x4 CC with 104k miles. It just randomly dies going down the road. Sometimes it restarts. Sometimes it doesn't. Sometimes I just get a small blip (loss of spark or fuel - unsure which) when going down the road then it's fine again. It seems seems like a loose connection somewhere to me but I have checked and repaired everything I can find.
A little history of problems...
Fall 2014 - Fuel Sending Unit; I had similar problems a little over a year ago and I replaced this at ~90k miles. The stock one was corroded and the fuel pump wasn't getting power. Got the part from Nissan directly. Truck ran great for a year then started having same issues in fall of 2015. I am thinking this couldn't have gone bad again in only a year, but who knows? No engine codes at the time.
December 2015 - Distributor #1; I replaced it with one from Auto Zone. Had the same problems that day. Returned that and replaced with one from Napa Distributor #2 (New - house brand - supposedly made by Altrom - which is supposedly comparable to OEM) This seemed to fix it for a little while. At the same time I did the timing belt, spark plugs, wires, valve cover gaskets, a bunch of suspension work, etc. so I had the harness off. Did I knock something loose? I feel like I have checked it up and down.... doesn't seem that way.
January 2016 Bad Wire?; Same issues. Wiggling the harness into the distributor seemed to have an effect on restarting so I pulled the harness apart from the dist to the main and found a small cut on the casing of one of the ground wires. The wire was not damaged, just casing. Fixed that with a double layer of shrink tube and it ran fine again for a couple weeks. In this same period my catalytic converters also went bad. My exhaust manifolds cracked, next thing I knew I had catalytic converter codes on both sides of the engine. Ran it like this for a few months.
April 2016 Distrbutor #3 Same problem. Randomly dies. Gets progressively worse over a couple day period. I gave up and took it to a shop (Downing St. Garage in Denver, CO) They diagnosed it as a bad distributor so I had it replaced AGAIN (they were nice enough to use the Napa part I bought and get a free warranty part)
June 2016 Distributor #4 Same problem again. Still have not replaced cats - did not want to spend the money when the ignition problem seems un-related. Replaced distributor with another warranty part from NAPA. This time the one that I took off made a crunching sound when you turned it by hand.
August 2016 Finally replaced cats. CEL codes were gone for an afternoon then the truck started sputtering down the road again... CEL P1320 and CEL P0325 BACK AGAIN!
I am at a loss on what to do. I have read that the MAF sensor can get dirty... but this doesn't seem to explain the P1320. Anyway, I ordered some cleaner, a new knock sensor and another distributor (this time Nissan brand but re-manufactured... they no longer sell new ones.)
Our mechanic is stumped. The Frontier runs hot when idling. The clutch fan and thermostat have been replaced. The radiator has been flushed. When you are driving or you turn off the A/C, the temp goes down. The next suggestion is to replace the radiator, but I'm already hundreds into this so I hate to do anything else unless I'm pretty sure it is going to fix it.
We do know that the catalytic converter needs replacing. Could this have anything to do with it?
When I cut off the engine by mistake (shift slip ie ) the restart comes around but only after about 5 to 15 minutes . The last time this happened the car was at an intersection and this situation is getting dangeous.Why is the restart taking so long ?
View 2 RepliesI have read two other threads that indicate a leaky head gasket for Nissan Frontiers overheating...but I'd like an opinion on my problem: I have a 1999, v6 3.3L, 4x4, manual Frontier that I have owned since 2001, always well-maintained, timing belt, water pump and thermostat already replaced a couple of years ago; currently has 129k mi. I rarely drive it (about once or twice a month).
Last time I drove it (I'm in AZ and heat was over 100 degrees) it started right up and was fine until I'd gone about 3 miles on the freeway doing about 65mph. Started to climb in temperature, but not into the red zone. I drove with it hovering just above the midway point (midway meaning perfectly normal temperature on my gauge) for a couple of more miles, when it started to climb just a bit more, I got off the freeway and dropped under 45 mph, the temperature went down to normal. I drove about 40mph back home and haven't driven it since.
I checked my coolant, which was extremely clean and not low, and was not boiling when I checked it soon after the temp went up on the freeway. What is the most likely cause?On a side note, since I do not drive it that often, what is recommended as to the gas that has been sitting in my tank since? How long does the gas stay good for? Further wondering how often it is recommended I drive it, for how long and at what sustained speed to keep my truck up and running?
I have a 2000 Nissan Frontier that is a 4X4 and has the V6 engine. Mileage is 172,000+. For a few years, I have had problems with the AC no longer cooling after I drive 20 or so miles and stop the truck, go in a store and start back up only to find that the AC will not cool after the stop. This seems to happen more when the weather is hot. Only once has it gone out without stopping the car and it was on I40 driving trough Oklahoma in 100+ degree weather. Once it quits cooling, after driving 20 to 30 minutes, it usually starts to cool again. It sometimes speeds up the process if I roll the windows down.Coolant levels are fine.
So...is there a faulty sensor somewhere? What could it be that is the problem?
We have a 2003 Nissan frontier pickup (automatic).The AC recently stopped cooling, but the fan works. It was cooling perfectly great when all of a sudden, it stopped. If we turn the AC on, the compressor (I'm guessing) starts to click and continues to click until turned off. (started to grind under hood). It's not a rattle, definitely a click as if it wants to turn on but can't make the electrical connection. It kind of sounds like when a starter has gone bad and it clicks. Except, it does it repetitively until turned off. This doesn't happen if we turn on the fan but leave the AC off. Does it sound like the compressor went out? How can we troubleshoot it?
View 19 RepliesI have a 2000 Nissan Frontier that is having issues. I had the distributor replaced and the knock sensor. The day I got it home it started having a weird starting issue. It has always started first crank super easy & strong. Runs GREAT.
When the truck is cool it starts right up but, when I've been driving around for a bit and turn it off, if it's a short stop starts right back up, some hesitation. If I stop for 15-45 mins it doesn't want to start. I can crank it all day and it wont start and gives a little kickback, if I crank too much the engine will smoke a bit, spits and sputters when you turn the key off. The longer it sits before I try to start it the worse it gets... around one hour is the worse. - Finally figured out if I try cranking it over several times, turn off the key and wait literally one to two minutes it starts right up super quick and strong just like when it's cool. So random and weird.
No warning lights & Nothing shows up when hooked up to the computer, fuel pump checked out OK.